FrankEV

Looking good. Once you finish up the hair you will have it made. Easy peasy from there. Like other said, looking forward to seeing the finished project.

I like them a lot. Well cut and finished. How are they displayed? Hung like a ornament or do they mount on a wall?

Very well done. Sweetie will love them. Mount them on a poster size framed backer and it would be a real nice wall hanging. Maybe find/make a pattern of a vase that you could use at the bottom.

This is not a picture of mine, but I have made three of these, two before I ever realy got into doing Scroll Saw work. Owned a Scroll Saw for many years. The first two feeders was the only projects I used it on when I was up in NC. Making the third after moving to Florida was what actualy got me interested in doing more scroll work, that was about 20 or so months ago. The one I currently have in my back yard looks like a bomb exploded in it as the squirrels tore it apart. Even so the birds love it when I remember to fill the tray with seed. We get Cardinals, Doves, Bluejays, all sorts of small brown birds, small Wood Peckers and Painted Buntings (I swore were small parrots or parrakeets...my ladey corrected me by showing me them in a book of birds we have.) The feeders were made of untreated 1/2" ply and painted with oil based enamel. However, even well painted they don't hoild up well in the elements, especially here in the florida sunshine...both the hot kind and the wet kind. I intend to remake it again and this time try to find some better wood, like maybe marine grade ply. (We have lots of boat building places around here.) Anyway the pattern was in SWW many moons ago. You can down load it here: https://scrollsawer.com/2011/05/04/victorian-birdfeeder/ Travis did say we can post aboth Bird house and Feeders also, so I took him up on his suggestion.

Your are correct, adding color tends to diminish the simple b&w contrast of the basic Scroll Saw presentations. However, in person, you do still get the sense of depth typical of Scroll Saw work. Many paatterns just don't requirem, or work at all, if color is added. The viewers eyes see the image and it is like looking at old B&W photos...nothing more needed. However, any of these above, just don't work in simple B&W and demand more...color. Kinda like why we have color photography these days. Taking the Dolphin Portrait for example, with out the shading contarast between the colors on the dolphin, the image myay not be even reccognizable if the pieces was in simple B&W. A mored skilled pattern maker may have been able to add/subtract lines and make it work in B&W, but I'm lucky to be able to make it into a scrollable pattern making sure there are no drop outs/islands. I did think about differenciating the sky/water for the jumping Dolphins but if you really think about it, on a pitch black ocean with a bright moon, would you really be able to see a difference. I never cought the Dolphins jumping, but when I was in the Navy, a zillion years ago, and out to sea on a calm black night all you could see was the the bright moon setting...even blocking out the stars in that part of the sky. Now about that Mermaid! Yes, the original art WAS definately sketch art. My rendition (of her) isn't so far from the original. It is just my painting skills could have made the "sketchy art" even a more properly done piece of "sketchy art".

I have been looking for patterns of Southern/Beach/Nautical/Tropical subjects for a themed grouping of cuts that would be appropriate for the Beach Community here in Florida with little success. I did find “Beach” by Janevski in the SVV Pattern Library that I modified a little and sized to suit an 9X12 panel. The hand painted panel is 1/8” BB ply mounted on a 1/4” thkx 11 x14 hand painted BB Ply backer. The cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. Beach: Looks OK from afar but don't get too close, my painting skills still need some improvement. For the following, I did not create the original actual art work but I did create the patterns from free image files of art I found on line. In each instance, the art was only used as a basis for the pattern and much of the conversion into a scrollable pattern changed the image significantly by omission, addition or modification of subject matter. The Theme for these patterns became “Dolphins”. All patterns were sized to suit 11x14 panels. All cut panels are 1/8” hand painted BB Ply affixed to a ¼” thk hand painted BB Ply backers. Again, most of the cutting was completed with Pegas #2/0 or #0 spiral blades except for the long straight line frame cuts were made using a Pegas #3 MGT R blade. Mermaid and Dolphin: I enjoyed making this piece, but I’m not happy with my paint work. Artist Acrylics are just not working well for me. Jumping Dolphins: Simplicity personified but quite dramatic I think. Painted using spray cans (Woopie!). Dolphin Portrait: The original art for this was actually a metal sculpture that stood about 6 feet tall. The backer was painted with spray cans and the panel was painted using Artist Oil Paints. I like how this one came out.

Eagles have been one of my go to patterns since I started scrolling. However, birds in general has been my popular subject and makes up a large part of what I have completed. In fact, not shown yet, I just finished another Parrot cutting, but is still in the finishing and framing process. Edit 5/15, see added pic at bottom. Edit 5/15:

Great Spiral Blade cutting. Gee, only 458 holes,,,why dont you do a hard pattern?

You bet. Somebody had a lot of time on their hands to put that together.

Great work. My lady would love the Humming Bird catcher.

Again, great cutting. Same comment about the Frame as Cat Angel. And, this is strictly my own opinion, but knowing you were going to set this panel into a frame, I (personally) would have eliminated the octagon interior cut frame.

Cute Kitty! Great cutting. I like the work you put into the BE Maple Frame, but the Joints detract.

That is a good DP, but for just drilling fretwork holes...WHY would you want to spend that much money? My upside down dremel DP works great (subject of another post if you want to know, PM me). Betwenn one of the small Dremel rotary tools and their DP....less then a hundred dollars. Holds small bits nicely, takes up very little space and works well for drilling blade holes for fretwork.

Welcome to SVV from Central Florida. My thoughts: I find the Pegas MGT R are a good all around blade. Pegas blades in general are more agressive then other brands, but after getting use to them, the other brands seem dull right out of the package. I don't feel you need to jump around with different types of blades untill you get a lot more experience. Pick one type ( I suggest the MGT R) and stick with it untill you feel you need the blade to do more for you. That could be quite a while. You will really want a broader selection of sizes all the way from #2/0 through #5. #3 & 5 are OK for simple rather large cutout areas and long straight/curved lines, but once you start to do more intricate work, the #2/0, #0 and #1 blades become much more appropriate. Just remember one thing, reduce the blade speed and do not over tighten the tension when using smaller blades or you will break a lot - I know, been there, done that. And BTW, the Pegas saw is well worth the price. Just make sure you order the stand with it.

Bump...see edit in original post.

Welcome to SVV. Please us a little bit about yourself like: Where located? What kind of saw you use? What kind of projects you like working on? Anything else of interest we should know about. Lots of members here to tap for help or information if needed. Post up a pic and show us what you did or are doing. Post your work in Braggi ng Rights to get an ego boost!

Which/who's pattern? Anything different?

A Sue May Pattern. Cut from a Walnut 5/32 solid core ply panel and mounted on a 1/4x12X18 Birch backer. the Walnut was stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to improve contrast. The backer was stained with Minwax Natural. The assembled panel was finisshed with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. The cut was done with Pegas #0 spiral blades. The Frame is a smple 1 3/4" wide Walnut which was also stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to enhance the color and finished with multiple coats of Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Edit 5/11/2021: Just a little added information and rational. When I do a pattern like this that is applied on top of a backer so the image is raised, I'm very careful to make sure all the cut edges are stained as well to match. If left unstained, the cut edges are very noticable and a big distraction to the viewer. In addition, by making sure the cut edges are stained, the fact that the panel is plywood is not as apparent, again making the image much more attractive to the viewer. Also, it may be just me, but I realy like the presentation in a Frame rather then, how many would make it, as an unframed plaque. IMO, I think it is much more elegant. Thanks to all who have made such positive comments.

I built a panel cutting sled, but I find just using my tape measure and the table saw rip fence,I can cut my panels more accurately than with the sled. A cross cut sled is great for accurate/square cross cuts for doing big wood projects. For doing frames and the occasional need for some boards trimmed to length, my precision aftermarket T-slot tee with a wide board attached works just fine.

I totally agree with what you are suggesting. I don't expect to be able to cool the shop down a lot, but if It keeps it from being untolerable and reduces the humidity a little, it will be worth it. I had already consider the insulation on the under side of the roof if I find I really need it. There is very little exposed wall as I covered most with plywood in order to hang tools, shelves, etc. Also, the shed sits below a shade tree and is located in the space between the two adjacent houses, and does not get direct sun until late morning and during mid day. I don't ususlly work durring those hours anyway. I may not be a Mexican, but that is my siesta time.

Install a chair lift...cheaper than building a new outdoor groundlevel shop .

We get a few weeks of "cool" temps (low to mid 40's) during the winter which makes it a little uncomfortable to work, but I found a small heater designed for a work shop area that will quickly take the chill off when needed. So now I have the best of both times.

There is screen on the inside of the vents...so no wasps have gotten in yet. I get wasp nests up under the gable overhang on my house but they havn't found my shed yet.

This is just FYI. As I have mentioned more than once, my shop is a small 8X14 Resin Shed I purchased through Lowes. During the summer last year I could only work for a few hours, very early in the morning, before the temps here in Central Florida reached the high 90's and the sweat would be running down my brow and into my eyes. I had gone to Lowes yesterday to pick up a few thing I needed and as I was walking out I pased a Stack of GE small room AC units. The smallest is 5000 BTU intended for a 150 SF room. My Shop is only 112 SF...Perfect. Price $159...not terrible. Military discout kept it under $160 after sales tax. After going home and checkiing on the dimensions of the unit and the space I had in my gable end wall (the only feasible location) I went back ane purchased one. Today I installed the unit. I don't have a window so I had to make a cased opening just the correct size to fit the unit. I first made a frame to varify it was correct for the unit and then use it to mark out the openening in the wall. My jig saw made quick work of the resin wall, just above the metal header for the doors. I cased the opeing on both sides and fixed it with some screws into the metal header. The frame in place is more than strong enough to replace the cut out wall section. I slid the unit into the opening and, WALA, everything fit nicely and now is working fine. I know the power in my shop is fed from only one 20 AMP breaker circuit in my main panel. Was concerned that the AC would overload the circuit if it was on with my router or dust collector. I'm happy to report I have no problems operating those three heaviest draw items as the same time. However, I will probably turn the AC unit off when I operate the Router station with the dust collector running to make sure no overloads. Any way, maybe I will be able to work in the shop more each day with out worring about heat exhaustion . Inside Outside

Both are nice, but do agree the one on the right is a little more pleasent to look at. More delicate, but I'm not sure removing the chimney completely is the best way. Did you fix the problem with the top being loose. The ring makes it inviting to think it could be hung. I think I probably could come up with a way to make the bottom removable for replaceing the candle . Then the top could be fixed/glued to the top of the walls so it could be hung. BTW, the workmanship is well done.