Joe W.

THANK YOU all for your kind words. I've started another Steve Good pattern (I'm a Jeep Man) using 1/4" BB I picked up from the local box store (starts with an L). The smaller font is kicking my butt. I searched on the forum for inspiration, tips, tricks, and or shortcuts and it looks like the bottom line is PPP (practicex3)! So, like a good little boy, I'm going to work on my a, b, c, ezzz, (along with the rest of those hard to cut buggers!

Looking Good! It's nice you can use wood you don't have to buy.

Wow! Really like the details. I think I'll try it!!

I'll have to make sure to not show this to my wife - she'll want one and I'm not there yet. Good Job!!!

Rin-Tin-Tin would say Woof! (amazing work).

In a word - Awesome!

Well, I've gone and done it. Got sawdust in my veins now. After I got the DW788 fixed and outfitted with lights, I started on the practice exercises in the first edition of John Nelson's "Scroll Saw Workbook" (the library is a wonderful asset). Did ten of the exercises and decided to try my hand at this Steve Good pattern (Thanks Steve). Used luan I had on hand and stained the top layer with stain I also had on hand. I really like not having to make a trip to get materials/supplies - and using what I have on hand. It helps balance out those times when I have to make 3 trips (or more) to be able to fix/repair something. Anyway, if I remember correctly, I used a Pegas # 5 Skip Blade and lost all track of time while working on this piece. I picked this pattern because it looked simple enough that I thought I could do it. But in the process I gained more appreciation for what goes into fretwork. Oh, and my brother-in-law is a farmer and sells local, so I thought I'd give it to him. My next piece is going to be a horse puzzle made with 3/4 pine, but I have to wait on that for now, until my next order of blades arrives.

See link above. Gave these two lamps a workout on my DW788 the past couple of days. Distance from the magnetic base to the beginning of the LED lights is 8 inches. I placed the magnetic base just behind the black power switch/speed dial cover. The flexible arm and lights are long enough to enable adjusting the light heads to completely eliminate any shadows, and small enough to not be in the way. A side benefit is being able to easily move one or both of them to other locations if desired. I did not to make a support bracket for the lights as they have a magnetic base, but for anyone who wanted to, the lights come with adhesive mounting Discs that would enable that option. And with only 2W of power consumption each, that leaves more money for scroll saw blades!

This is a wonderful website and your adding to it will only add to it more! Thanks for all you do!! 1

Hello Tim, welcome to the Village from Dover, Delaware.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QRH8VS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Found these - got 'em today - installed 'em on my 3-legged stand and moving/storing the saw/stand has never been easier. Now I need to find something to put the forth one on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088YTZ7GZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I got these two lights today in the mail. Mounted them on both side of the DW88 and they completely stopped my profanity caused from shadows hiding the pattern lines I was trying to see. Life is good!

Welcome to the Village. A LOT of experience and information here!

I had the same thing with my scroll saw. First I tried JB Weld epoxy and soaking it in boiling water and then pushing the end onto the bellows output metal on the side - didn't work. I pushed so hard on the end of the air hose the small crack got bigger to the point where I decided to pull that piece off. Surprisingly, it easily separated from the rest of the air hose. With the end of the air hose still hot from the boiling water, I pushed the end of the air hose onto the bellows output and it went on easily with a little bit of force. Off to a good start for the day!

Two months ago, I got my father-in-law’s 30 year old Delta scroll saw and immediately got hooked on the activity. Being that old, it requires a tool to change the blade. Which got me to here – the Village! The past two months have been filled gaining experience: bought and returned two scroll saws, bought a used DW788, took it apart twice (once to grease it – once to replace the connecting rod), built a wood stand for it, and F I N A L L Y started making dust with it today, cutting out the first three exercises contained in John Nelson’s Scroll Saw Workbook. And having a great time! Used the blades I initially bought from the box store with scrap wood I had in the garage and now ready to try out the Pegas starter pack of blades I have. So I’m a happy camper at last. Now, about wood - - - Walking through a box store, I see “Whitewood” in various sizes and would like to get anyone’s opinions on how it is for cutting compared to pine.

Very clever! Way to go!!

Welcome to the forum !

Welcome to the village!

Nice design! I cut my first practice pieces yesterday now that my machine is fixed and have arrived at the "accessory level". Your light arrangement looks simple and effective and I'll adopt it. Thanks for posting!

Good Day all, My DeWalt 788 sounds much better now compared to the sound recording I uploaded Jan 4th. I replaced the connecting rod assembly after cleaning out what little grease there was in the bearing and adding new synthetic grease to it and the sleeve. Using a drift pin my son-in-law had, I had the old connecting rod out with no trouble - the right tools make all the difference. There is still a little knocking sound that starts just below the number 4 speed setting and goes away at just below the number 5 setting. The knocking stops and doesn't return until it gets to full speed/power at the number 8 setting. My guess is the two bearings on the vertical assembly may be responsible for that. The knocking is much less pronounced than before, so I've decided to start using the saw for now and order a set of bearings/install them when they come in. Someone on the forum once posted about parts sailing away - so true! the tension sleeve fell out of my hand and disappeared under the worktable - and stopped at the most distant place under everything else that was in the way. Then there was one of the thrust washers that fell into the upper assembly hiding by the bellows. Took me a couple minutes to find that one! So all in all - a happy ending - no leftover or missing parts and the saw does sound much better. Thanks for your comments and thanks to Bob B for his video series. Especially for pointing out the reverse thread on the motor and use of the drift pin.

hello from dover de and welcome to the village.

welcome to the forum!

Yes, I've heard or seen of that somewhere before. I don't have a drill press (yet - my birthday's coming) so will use my son-in-law's shop. it's good to have a mechanic in the family.

Yeah, roger that on the car axel grease - I got the Valvoline full synthetic and used it for all the bearings/sleeves - except for the connecting rod - which is in the mail coming to me. My son-in-law is a mechanic and has the drift tool Ray used in his video to spread the vertical assembly in order to remove the connecting rod from it, so I am optimistic in being able to make that replacement. Really hoping that will be the source of the knocking. But even if it isn't, it will eliminate that as the cause and help zero in on where the knocking is coming from.

igot my father-in-laws old 2 speed Delta and it had a similar problem - i pressed hard on the switches and it was a loose connection- opened up the switch cover and tugged and pushed on the internal wires connecting to the switches and that cleared it up. Put the cover back on and that fixed it. Good luck with your situation.