rafairchild2

They have a plugged-in tool, with flex shaft for $45 https://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html

Just sitting. I figured a 120 lbs saw, didn't need to be bolted.

The 30" weighs 120 lbs. Not sure how much more than a 24". I did not install the handles on the cart. I also used shorter bolts where the handles would have been. But yes, the mobility is a plus for sure.

Just be careful of placement, or have a cover. You'll get sawdust and small pieces in it if you place it under the table!

I understand that. But on your site, all of your saws are listed as ' out of stock, which to me means 'sold out'. That says you do not have any to sell. At that point, I went to Bearwoods. They drop shipped from NJ.

Thanks. I looked at your site, but it said out of stock. US General has some magnetic accessories for the cart. I just ordered the tool tray, which will be placed under the front of the saw, so I can have a couple of tools I use (pick and engineers square) and to catch pieces of wood dropping through), A paper towel dispenser, and a drink holder.

Thanks Since I am in a garage, where I put my convertible, I need flexibility. I pull the car out and have a lot of space for the weekend. Also when I am doing videos, I want to be able to adjust things as needed. Also, constantly evolving my workflow. This gives me max flexibility.

I spent a few days getting my Pegas the way I wanted. Still shocked it only took 2 days to deliver from my order. I used a US General service cart as the base. (The red matches!) I added a power strip with USB plugs and a 25 foot cord. This way I can move it around in the shop for some flexibility. Here you can see it in position when I am recording live streams or other YT videos. Most of my tools are in a semi-circle, so I only need to spin around on my stool. My only negative right now is I have the magnifying glass/light connected to the cart (used to be on the wall), so I lose some cutting space. I really do not want to go back to my old long arm (you can see it on my workbench) from the back as it bounces too much, but I will figure placement in the next week. Other Shop Stuff: I put my old 10" WEN drill press back in operation and keep a pilot drill bit in it. My larger drill press further back is for larger holes, barrel and mop sanding. It sits to the left of my carving workbench. In this photo I have a whole bunch of toys needing to be profiled. You can see the blue legs of my frankenrouter and barrel sander behind that near the silver overhead door. I plumbed in the Pegas, to have not only the regular bottom vac, but also a top vac using loc-line. It then gets combined at the back of the saw. I can either hook up to the 10 foot 2.5" vacuum line at any port along the wall, or to my 4" dust handling line that I can roll out. Below is a closeup when I was plumbing everything in. I did have my old magnetic sheet on for a while, as the glare from my shop lights reflected off the black surface of the cutting table. I still have to get used to this saw. I started with a #10, as I was drifting to the left with the thinner blades, and worked my way down in numbers (at #5 right now), figuring out what setup worked. Every blade has a personality, as does the saw. In the photo below you can see my old Excal before moving out of that spot and rearranging things.

I got my stickers on both sides for videos! Mounted my magnifying light. I just started plumbing in my bottom and top vac. I'll use the loc-line from my drill press for the top, as it has similar fittings to my top vac on my Excal. I have something else for my drill press. The goal is to make this totally portable in the shop. Just one electric cable to an outlet and one vac line that splits for top and bottom vacs. When I am done this weekend, I'll start another thread and post pics. Maybe others will want to set up saws like this.

Yeah, I bought that cart last weekend (US General), and had it all set up for my sander and table jig saw. Figure tomorrow or Saturday, I'll buy another and get those back up on it. I had that red one all wired and such, so it made sense since I wanted to get this thing working fast.

Got it from Bearwoods, no sales tax saved me ~$75.00. They ship from NJ, so it is a quick drive down thru Delaware, Maryland, down the Eastern Shore over the 22-mile Chesapeake Bay bridge-tunnel, and 4 miles to my house!

Took my time setting it up on the cart. Nice and stable got my table angle (higher in back) set, leveled the table and arm side to side, checked and adjusted the arm to table from to back. Got the blade 90 degrees to the table. Ran my power cables nice and neat with wire clips and such. MAN! When I first turned it on, it was so bloody quiet and smooth. You can hear and feel the difference of better materials! WOWZER!! Did a simple cut just to make some sawdust. Now to figure out how I want to place the cart and plumb it all into my dust collection system and move my top vac line and hose over.

Thanks. A stellar sales and delivery. Just waiting for someone to help me lift it onto the cart. But I want to know who was the genius that thought it was a good idea to stick a big ass sticker on the cutting table? A bit of it would not peel off, so I got stuck using a plastic scraper. Still residue on the table.

HOLY HOT TAMALE'!!!! Ordered my Pegas 30" saw Tuesday. SAME DAY.... shipped via UPS... It arrives TODAY!!!! 2-days! Should I complain how fast the shipping and delivery is?

So my hunch is that the tension knob at the back of the saw is coming loose. If you remember during the troubleshooting process, one of the first things done was making sure that the arm/table was parallel adjusting the rear knob to within 1 mm. But when running the speed test after tensioning with the lever, after running the saw and untensioning, the blade 'flopped' much more than what it was prior to flipping the lever back on the pre-tension. I said in the video the arm and the table are losing parallel. Sure enough, the arm dropped past parallel. To test that, I added a step before flipping the lever back in the test yesterday, and that was tightening the knob in the back, or at least checking, as I know the feel of how tight it should be. Sure enough zero flop after running and flipping the lever forward. Test cut when very well. I did a small horse with various turns. Nailed the lines. So that is why I say that is the culprit. My solution temporarily... will be to check the knob frequently. Next, will be adding some lock-tite, finally replacing the knob. Sucks that this would wear in a years time. Regardless, I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my 30" Pegas. I am going to buy and modify a US General Service cart this weekend and have it ready.

I have a laptop on a cart.($120) I use the built-in camera for when I decide to show up on the camera My main video camera focusing on the scroll saw is on a small boom stand ($20) clamped to the right side of the laptop cart, and I am using a 7-year-old Canon VIXIA HF R800 Full HD Camcorder ($350). My other is a cheap chinese knockoff video camera ($200) for my workbench, that I can move to see my drill press and router. Now that I have my table jigsaw and 1x20" belt +disc sander on the same cart I can pivot the camera to that. This camera is on a tripod ($30), any sturdy one will do. I also use a mic pac, using the lapel microphone. This gives me the best audio, ($45)

Start with a cheap tripod and a cellphone clamp, and you are golden. Then you can work up like my videos with 2 cameras plus the one in the laptop. I can now inset myself in another video feed and also do split screens, like my workbench and scroll saw 50/50%. My cameras were left over when I was filming my Apache Helicopter radar training classes for the Army.

Duhhh, I should have gone to Steve's page. He has been a great resource to the scrolling community.

Hopefully, people will find this thread useful four years down the line like yours Kevin. At least for the different preventive maintenance items to check. Comparing Excal chucks to the Pegas. I wish now when I was videoing that I did one on the chuck swap, so there is a clear record of how to do that. Maybe, I will do that this weekend if I have time. You have to wonder how much longer the Chinese Excal will still be sold. There are a lot out there already and many used ones coming up on the 2nd hand market. So maintenance and repair help needs to be centralized.

Yes, I had actually book marked your thread over a year ago!! I also saw your images.. Oooofffaaaa! I am not in the mood to disassemble just to add lock-tite! I am pretty sure I do not have wear issues, as I did not have to adjust it much. it has held well, but you never know. I have been searching for the video your mentioned, but no-joy. Are there any service manuals? What I found is not really a breakdown of the unit. I am surprised at how hard it is to find information. Wish there was a singular source. After getting the Pegas chucks back on, I went through things again on my unit, and hopefully fixed the 'slop' issue. I am not sure if the high speed tests made the knob loosen or not, or my going through the bearings helped.. or not... By the time I got everything done and posted, it was bed time for me. I am up at 0300, so it is early to bed. I will try some cuts today and see what's, what.

Well, I took off the Pegas, and put on the Excal chuck, same results. When I put the Pegas back on I inspected the bearings and sleeves and all looked fine. I did add some lithium grease before getting everything back together. Do you have tear-down instructions on the large knob at the back of the saw? I am thinking of adding a little lock-tight to it. I noticed with all this testing, that it loosened a little bit, which could be the source of the blade slop. I usually did not have to adjust it, other than when I did my monthly preventative maintenance. The thing is, when this issue cropped up, that was one of the first things I checked and I was only a hair over a mm difference front to back. it might be running at 100% and was enough to loosen it. I never run the saw that fast.

No. I set the lever back (yes, I know tensioned position) to insert the top of the blade, thread the bttom of the blade through the hole, and place the top of the blade in the top of the chuck. I have the lever back so I can see the top of the thumb/set screw. I tighten the top of the blade, I then pull the lever forward and tighten the bottom of the blade, I then push the lever back to tension. I run it for a few seconds, lever forward, loosen the top and pull up on the blade to take up any slack that occurred in the first run, re-tighten, set the lever back to tensioned. What I am saying is before I tension after the 2nd repositioning there is no flop. After I tension, run the saw, and untension there is way MORE flop. Check my blade prep video further back which shows the whole process. I do it right.

So... Not the chuck, not the set screws... I tensioned my Pegas as normal and ran at high speed for 10 seconds or so. De-tensioned and the blade flopped with a boat load of play. Okay now what? Dug out the old Excal chucks, that barely have a week of use on them, and pu them on.. let me say the difference between the two.. oh my! Excal are real POS's. Ran the same test, same result. See video. Sooo... this means something more structural, catastrophic... Mother...@#$%^&*(!!!!, son of a &^%$#%^!!! Here's what I discovered... First video was the Pegas, then I swapped to the old Excal in the 2nd video.

Do those set/thumb screws from the Ex fit the pegas? For some reason I thought they were a different diameter/thread/pitch.

I'll add this on my Pegas 30" purchase. They want $130+ shipping for their table. I recently got a US General service cart for my 1x20 belt/ 5' disc sander and my portable table saw. It's a roller with a drawer and shelf. I got it for $99. When Harbor Freight has that offer again, I will buy one for the Pegas. I already measured. Change the length of a couple cabinet screws and I am good on the fit and height, now I am more flexible on my shop since I am in my garage.