crupiea

Great job!!

Great stuff, super job.

No, I have a pretty low set up so dont need the lifter. Funny story, I figured I could make my own lifter. used to scroll in the garage right under the garage door. Got to thinking that if I installed a hook in the garage door, then routed a bungee cord from the hook to the saw arm it would work great and it did, the first time. Dont have my saw connected to a table, just sits on top. Went to close up shop for the day, slammed down the garage door and heard something slam against it from the inside. Seems I forgot to unhook the bungee cord from the arm. opened the door back up and the saw was just swinging in the breeze dangling from the bungee.

Had the saw for a couple years now and the air blower tube is on the left side so it always seems to be in the way, of course when I am in the tightest turns it will be bugging me. You know how that is. Got to looking at it this morning and realized that you can swap sides on the tube by simple taking out the two allen head screws holding it on, rotating it to the other side and putting the screws back in. Works great on right side now!! Only took me about 3 years to figure it out too. that is some sort of record, not so much a good record but a record.

Best of luck on a fast recovery. i had surgery 2 months ago and was just able to start driving yesterday, felt great to have that freedom again. It will come in time, just make sure you are eating alot to give yourself all the nutrients you need to recover.

Man thats some great work Now you did that on your scroll saw with strips of wood? Not a lathe? Please let us in in the details as I am very interested. Seen these before but never realized they were scrolled items.

I thought I would try my hand at doing a piece that was a bit larger ond had more going on some was drawn to this piece. It was originally on the cover of Colliers magazine way back in the day. It is about 2 feet by 2 feet so that poses a set of problems getting the intricate things done as the size and weight of the piece have to be factored in. Its funny that you sort of get to know the original artists when you attempt their stuff and even though it looks simple it can be a major pain. Works the other way around too. I feel that this is a part of their personality somehow. Dont know but thats how I feel about it anyway. The original s by Earl Hurst. Enough blather, here is the item in question.

Great work.

I have been doing this style for about 10 years or so. Sad ti say its the only style I do. Cant figure intarsia to save my life but love looking at it. Its basically like a puzzle thats glued to a backer board. Thats a pretty simple explaination.

Thanks you. That means alot as I intended to honor the original artists.

Here are a couple pieces i did during my Haida phase.

Love it. Would buy one if I saw it for sale.

He must really love me today!!

I have a pack of those playing cards that casinos discard. They punch a hole in the middle of them. Clear tape that card over the hole in the table and it makes a big difference.

You have to ask yourself why that piece chipped out. Could be the blade you are using , when it hits that corner, is just not up to the task and taking too much wood out even on a very small scale. Or it could be that that tiny piece was unsupported and the vibration knocked the little piece out. Speed could cause tis too. a bit too fast. Could be that the tiny unsupported piece was over the hole where the blade goes, the blade is just a hair bigger then should be used and the on the upstroke, bam, piece gets knocked out. i fixed this problem by going to metal blades. way more teeth per inch. Bottom looks terrible but i just sand it down. I use 2/0 for normal 1/8" bb and for super tight areas 3/0. A #72 bit as well. Ended that problem for me.

Years ago i would make the regular portraits/ sillouhetes that we alk make. Well I was making one and there was that one eye that wasnt connected to anything, just sort of floating out there. The picture would look if I had a way to somehow connect it to the rest of the piece. you know how it is. So I cut it out anyway and while I was trying to figure it out I put all the pieces I had cut out back into the picture to get some perspective. Right away it struck me that i had been limiting myself all along and that if I put the pieces back in then i would open up limetless possibilties so thats what I did. i started out but working with coloring books. looney tunes basically, bugs, yosemetie sam and the like. They already have the black outlines so it seemed a perfect fit. I first tried to just let the actual cut be the black line between but after the piece was all cut out I had lost some size with the cuts and it looked bad when i tried to glus it to the backing so i figured I would put the black lines in. From there i could still see the drill holes so i made sure the drill holes were in the black lines. For these piecses you can see that i was in my transition period where i went with the lineless look. What i did was find some nice images online, print them out, spray glue them onto the 1/8" baltic birch and go after it. I start at one corner and work my way up. once i cut a piece, i write on the back a number where ot will go back in and the color. i use a code like 1 x. 1 is bottom right and x is white. I have a code for each color. Plus I have printed 2 copys of the pattern so worst case, i can always check that as a reference. So now I cut everything out and am left with a giant jumble of odd shaped tiny chuncks of baltic birch. From here I have to paint them. I take some card stock and put some blue tale on it backwards, you fold over the ends so the sticky side is up. I label all the cards with the finishing color. blue, red, white, whatever. I paint all the pieces white first as sort of a primer. After that dries i come back and paint all the pieces the color they are supposed to be. Mainly I use spray cans but for some of these i used an airbrush. Of course you have to make sure the pieces are stuck to the tape or the wind from the can or airbrush will blow them everywhere. This can be a major hassle as making a replacement piece is a hassle. Once its all dried, i glue it to the backer board which i cut out originally with the outline of the piece. I spread wood glus onto the backerboard which in itself is another pain. You dont want too much as it will seep through. Not enough you will lose pieces. Then you press it somehow. i used to use clamps but now just use a big plank and put in under the plank for a day so it presses evenly. Next day, all done.

There were originally all Japanese woodcuts. Of course I didnt do them as woodcuts but as my normal segmentation. I have a tendancy to get all fired up about a certain subject and after I do a few pieces it runs its course.

well done.

I have not replaced mine but do recall people saying that they can clog up with saw dust and it will cause this to happen. They said they took it apart and cleaned it out and that fixed it. Again, never tried myself but worth a shot. Used to happen on my old delta.

Fantastic work. Awesome work, I am very impressed.

Here is a birthday present I made for my daughter. She is into succulent plant so I took a picture of her favorite plant. For the pattern I simply printed out the portion of picture I wanted to use color and all. I spray glued it to the wood and cut it out. For the mating and frame I just gut it out to look like mating and frame. Ti start with its really just one piece of baltic birch.

Great job. From the thread title I expected the worst but left pleased.

Thanks for the pics, I knew there was a trick to these I was missing. Great job.

Basically its segmentation. Like fretwork I cut the little pieces out but dont throw them away. Instead I save them, paint them and put them back in. then I glue it to a backer board. i drill the holes on the black lines so you dont see them.

Did these a while back. Based on tattoo art.