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Hitachi CW40 Scrollsaw


Vector01

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I recently purchased a new scrollsaw. I was looking for one that had the light, blower, tilt table and stand. My budget was $200.00 dollars (according to the boss). After some research, I purchased the Hitachi.

 

hitweb2.jpg

 

The saw appeared well manufactured. There were no gaps or grind marks in the cast body. The finish was a nice gun metal gray. The stand was metal. The color matched the saw and was easily assembled. After assembling the stand it was just a matter of bolting down the saw. So much for looks. A few simple tests were in order.

 

I wanted to check to see if the table was square to the blade when set to zero. Not having a small machinist's square, I used the old straight cut test. Cut a straight line into some scrap wood and then ran the blade into the cut from behind the blade. Passed.

 

The next was to cut out a square and round piece. I ran the pieces back into the wood from top and bottom. Slipped in and out with no problem. Passed.

 

The table has set stops from 15-45 degrees left and right. It also is "micro" adjustable. I set the table to approximately 2.5 degrees and made two bevel cuts (left and right). Checked the pieces and they sat in the cuts as they should (above and below). Passed.

 

I've read posts about the infamous "standing nickel test." This is a test of the vibration or lack of during operation of the saw. It so happened I had one handy. The saw is rated from 400-1600 SPM. I ran the test twice. Once with the nickel in front of the blade and then with it to the right of the blade.

 

nickel1.jpg

 

nickel2.jpg

 

I stood the nickel on end and started at the lowest speed and gradually increased the speed until old George hit the deck like a drunken sailor. In both positions, I was able to get to 80% speed before the nickel fell. This comes out to 1280 SPM out of the rated 1600 SPM's. I'm not an expert on saws, but this seems acceptable.

 

Now for the cons. I don't think cons would be an appropriate term. More an inconvenience. The first is the tensioning knob is at the rear of the saw. If you are doing a piece with a lot of inside cuts and you sit while scrollen, then you will get your exercise for the day.

 

The second is attempting to attach the blade to the lower arm. According to the manual, the blade has to be attached to the lower arm first. After tilting the table as instructed and inserting the blade thru the insert, you're expected to align the blade in the holder and tighten. This is great if you happen to have three hands. If you also have large hands this adds to the frustration.

 

No problemo! Attach the blade to the upper arm first. Then with the table set at zero, you can look thru the table insert and use both hands (one from each side of the table) and attach to the blade to the lower arm. After about five minutes of trying it their way I was swearing like a "ticked off" drill instructor!

 

The last is the hold down mechanism. It's large and mostly in the way. If your working on a small piece...Forget about it! I don't use it anyway so I just removed it.

 

I'm not trying to endorse this particular saw but just sharing my impressions of it so far. Like mentioned before, I'm no expert on the different models. The last saw I owned was over six years ago and was a Craftsman (which ran great). I paid $169.00 dollars for this setup and for the price I thought it was a good deal. I had enough cash leftover to order some Olson blades.

 

Have Fun!

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Thanks for the info! That looks like a really great saw. I have a feeling you'll be making sawdust with it for quite awhile! You certainly can't beat the price! I love the fact it comes with a scroll saw stand, too. I wish mine did.

 

For those interested, I've added some info about the CW40 to the wiki. You can find it at: [wiki]Hitachi CW40[/wiki]

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Your Hitachi is almost exactly like my Craftsman. Just a couple of cosmetic differences. I took out the plastic insert where the blade goes through, and cut a piece of 1/8 poplar to fit, drilled a hole for the blade to go through. It is a bit off-set to the right of center. Instant zero clearance for close tolerance cuts.

Paul

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I looked up the Craftsman again and it seems that there are quite a few design features that are simular on the Hitachi. These companies tend to duplicate the most popular features on each others products. I don't know who actually makes the Craftsman saws. But with more U.S. companies outsourcing work, who knows? I fear that the term "Made In America" might soon become something only referenced in a history book.

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I have a Craftsman 21601 that I inherited. When looking at the Hitachi I noted that they are virtually IDENTICAL!

Yes the lower blade clamp is a pain on both so I just took off the lower left cover and cut out a notch so I could get my big PAW in there.

Another thing you might check is if you are not using the 'holdown' the screw on my Craftsman was an identical thread and just the right length so I swapped them after squaring off the holdown bolt to make more comtact with the blade. The one on the holdown has a larger griping surface on the Craftsman.

Otherwise it is doing good as my first saw and I am slowly learning how this hobby works and ADDICTS.

 

GrampedStL

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I have a Craftsman 21601 that I inherited. When looking at the Hitachi I noted that they are virtually IDENTICAL!

Yes the lower blade clamp is a pain on both so I just took off the lower left cover and cut out a notch so I could get my big PAW in there.

Another thing you might check is if you are not using the 'holdown' the screw on my Craftsman was an identical thread and just the right length so I swapped them after squaring off the holdown bolt to make more comtact with the blade. The one on the holdown has a larger griping surface on the Craftsman.

Otherwise it is doing good as my first saw and I am slowly learning how this hobby works and ADDICTS.

 

GrampedStL

 

Good call on the hold down screw. I'll check it out. Probably be the same thread. As a quicky, I cut out a "key" to use to tighten that lower screw. When I get to the hardware store I'll pick up a plain hex drive screw that I can use my allen wrench on.

[attachment=0]key1.jpg[/attachment]

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...Yes the lower blade clamp is a pain on both so I just took off the lower left cover and cut out a notch so I could get my big PAW in there....

 

Yah, I did the same. Lost my dust collector, but at least I can reach the blade clamp. ;)

 

...Another thing you might check is if you are not using the 'holdown' the screw on my Craftsman was an identical thread and just the right length so I swapped them after squaring off the holdown bolt to make more comtact with the blade. The one on the holdown has a larger griping surface on the Craftsman....

 

Great observation! I'm going to take a look at my saw too and see if it'll work better! Thanks Grampedstl!

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