Making simple boxes with inlay in lid

[Jim Finn]

I make and sell many cedar boxes with images or lettering inlaid into the hinged lids. I have been asked to explain how I do this with photos, so here it goes if you roll your curser over the images there are captions there to see.

 

Box frames measure 6"x8"x2"deep

 wooden patterns are used with a pencil to apply image to box lid Note that pattern is aligned with centerline..

I drill this hole using a rotary tool in a Dremel drill press jig set to drill at about six degree angle.

I keep the inside of the image or letter to the high (right) side of the blade with the saw table tilted at about 2.3 degrees when using two 3/8" blanks stacked to total thickness of 3/4"

After cut is complete separate the two woods with a razor knife.

The pieces removed from the box lid blank.  The bottom two pieces in this photo will be discarded. 

Apply white glue to edges with an artist brush.

Apply white glue to edges with an artist brush

Look closely and see that it is not a perfect fit.  Not to worry, it will be corrected

  Sand off both sides untill flat and smooth with all surface glue removed.

  Apply glue top edges of box sides and clamp in place to set up for one hour minimum.

  Notice I space the hinged side of the box lid with the thickness of two business cards on each side.  This is done to avoid pinching and not allowing the front of the box lid to close all the way

 Notice I space the hinged side of the box lid with the thickness of two business cards on each side. This is done to avoid pinching and not allowing the front of the box lid to close all the way

  Finished inlay before lacquer

After fist coat of brush on lacquer.

[Fab4]

Hi Jim:

Simply awesome.

Great tutorial.

Thank you for showing us how the pros do it.

Much appreciated

Fab4

[amazingkevin]

Thank you so much for the million dollar performance.A picture is truly  worth a thousand words.Great mechanic artist! ;)

[New Guy]

I asked and you delivered. Thank You much I really appreciate this and hope others will benefit from this post.

You did good. 100 Attaboys.

[dgman]

Thanks for the tutorial Jim, very informative!

[Scrolling Steve]

Awesome post Jim!!......You can learn something on this site everyday!

[kywoodmaster]

Very nice boxes and a great teaching tool. Thanks for the info.

[don in brooklin on]

Thanks for posting.  This is great and the boxes are fantastic.

 

You must have read my mind as I have these on my Christmas todo list. (actually it is the Honey Do list).

 

Do you have a source for the 3/8 " Cedar or do you mill it yourself?

 

Also, what size are the hinges and how much to you pay for a hinge?

 

My idea is to do a little smaller (about the size of 4 truffles), personalize and then use a place setting at Christmas. Need to make 21.

 

Thanks again

 

Don

[Jim Finn]

I get my hinges here:  http://craft-inc.myshopify.com/products/l262-largel-decorative-hinge

I buy them five thousand at a time there.  I also get the 1/4" screws there. 

I buy rough cedar by the truck load in 1"x6"x96"I resaw and plane it to 3/8".

I buy the maple or basswood for the inlays in smaller quantities and re-saw and plane it to 3/8" thickness also.

Buying in large quantities has kept my cost per box at about $2 including wood, hinges, and glue. (I buy my white glue by the gallon at Lowe's)

Smaller hinges, for smaller boxes are available at the same place.  (50 for about $6) Hobby lobby has some hinges, as does Rockler.

More time is spent making the boxes than doing the inlay. Typical inlay takes less than twenty minutes and making the boxes ,ten at a time, takes me about two hours each to make.

There are many different ways to make boxes that are more complex but in order to sell them at a good price I keep it simple.

Edited August 29, 2015 by Jim Finn

[spirithorse]

Great tutorial, Jim,

My fear would be to go to all that work and then mess up the band-saw cut!
I haven't had much success with my bench-top band-saw since I got it.

Thank you very much and God Bless! Spirithorse

[aubec]

Thank you very much for the informative tutorial

[bobscroll]

Thank you Jim for the fantastic tutorial, Much appreciate!

Bob           

[LarryEA]

Jim, you're good and a great teacher. Thank you.

[bossdriver]

Thanks for the great tutorial, especially the hint about how to space the hinges.  I have had a lot of trouble with my hinges hanging up and not closing......I will use your method from now on.

[Sparkey]

Thanks for the tutorial Jim. Every time I see one of your boxes it makes me want to give it a try.

[ichibob]

Thanks again Jim, for a great tutorial and all the personal tips.

[Phantom Scroller]

Jim fantastic pictorial thanks very much for your time it took to do it. I might have a go.     Roly

Edited October 5, 2015 by Phantom Scroller

[Tino]

Thank you so much for sharing this was very helpful to me.

[heppnerguy]

Jim,  Being one of your greatest fans, I am so glad that you are the person you are and are so willing to help others with your skill. I should be receiving one of your boxes in the mail soon and this tutorial is perfect timing for me as i am going to attempt to make some of these too, because I love them so much

 

Dick

 heppnerguy 

[Jim Finn]

Jim,  Being one of your greatest fans, I am so glad that you are the person you are and are so willing to help others with your skill. I should be receiving one of your boxes in the mail soon and this tutorial is perfect timing for me as i am going to attempt to make some of these too, because I love them so much

 

Dick

 heppnerguy 

I sent it on the 26th but I bet it is still setting here in Lubbock.  We are snowed in here with almost a foot of snow and no snow plows here.  Feel free to email me with any questions.

[Charlie181]

Your work is exceptional.  Thank you for sharing the process.

[Dave Monk]

Thank you so much Jim! Do you think you could cut the box with a table saw? Dave

[Jim Finn]

only a table saw? The 2" sides can be cut and re-sawn on a table saw for sure.  Depending on the size of the box, a table saw can make and re-saw the top and bottom also I suppose.

Edited December 30, 2015 by Jim Finn

[Charlie181]

Jim, I was playing around tonight making an inlay with your technique. I didn't notice it until I started drilling my pilot hole that the hole would be apparent in the inlay. Looking at your pictures you do a good job of hiding the hole in the finished product. Do you just use the saw dust and glue method to hide it also? Sorry but I'm new to the process.

[don in brooklin on]

Thank you so much Jim! Do you think you could cut the box with a table saw? Dave

I have done a few boxes using my table saw. 

 

There are 2 problems.

 

1.  You will loose about 1/8 inch due to the thickness of the blade.  I use a thin kerf so it is a little less.  If the depth of the box is critical add a bit.

2.   Depending on the height of your saw blade you may not even be able get all the way and you have to cut all 4 sides. Be careful with the last side. I some times add a shim to the opposite side for stability. Usually,, the 4 cuts do not match perfectly. When that happens I run across my Flatmaster and it get a straight surface.

 

Don

 

PS:  The table saw is dangerous so be careful.  If I was doing a bunch I would consider making a jig to hold the box when cutting.