recommended blades/material for cutting intricate work?

[scbridge]

Hi all,

 

I've been brainstorming some projects for a few months now, and received my scroll saw today. I purchased a Porter Cable 1.6amp Scroll saw, which accepts  5" pin & pin end blades. I also purchased a set of Olson Saw blades to get started with, which I have yet to try.

 

This is my first time using a scroll saw. I tried cutting some scrap wood earlier with the included blade, just to get a feel for the machine. I ran into some difficulty cutting around curves (I tried cutting out a circle), which I'm hoping to get better at time with practice.

 

I do have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can answer. Ideally, I would like to focus on detailed, intricate work (focus on lettering, custom keychains, nameplates, stuff of the like).

 

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for blades, and also material/wood. I'm looking for something I can pick up at my local Lowe's and/or Home Depot, just to get started. I've read that Flying Dutchmen blades are highly recommended, but wanted to make sure I purchase the "right" set for the type of work I'd like to focus on (would spiral blades be a good idea)?

 

In terms of wood/material, I'm looking for something that is affordable, but with a decent quality to it, and of course, usable with a scroll saw. Perhaps something that will look nice with a simple wood stain, eliminating the need to paint it over, when it comes to finishing options.

 

I've attached some links to below for reference. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and i look forward to learning more.

 

Scroll Saw: http://www.amazon.com/Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Stand/dp/B00UVY8Y1C

Blades: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G33Q6Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

Kind of work I'm interested in making:

http://womeninwoodworking.com/Resource.ashx?sn=ScrollSawnNameplates

 

http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/files/437434/uploaded/sld486-scroll-saw-merry-christmas-letter-pattern2.jpg

 

http://www.coolhammers.com/new_page_8_files/image002.jpg

[Clayton717]

Welcome to the village. I only use Flying Dutchman scroll reverse tooth blades. My go to sizes are # 5 and # 7, I cut a wide range of materials and thicknesses with these two sizes. I do have and use smaller blades # 3 and #2/0 for smaller detailed patterns. I also use spirals blades but only when I have to. There is a learning curve to use them.  you can find Flying Dutchman blades here - http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/home.php?cat=550&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=1.

 

Oak, poplar, cherry, maple, are some woods but not sure if they can all be purchased at the big box stores. my Home depot only carries oak, poplar pine and some cedar. for thinner portrait style cuttings I use 1/8" Baltic birch.

[jerry1939]

I agree with Clayton & use FDUR # 5 and a few times # 3.  Do yourself a favor and don't buy your blades from a big box store.  You will soon find out how poor the quality of the steel is.

 

As for tight turns:  FDUR blades have teeth on the right side (kerf) as the blade is mounted.  It is MUCH easier to make a tight curve if you are turning the wood clockwise as you saw.  Plan ahead so that you can do that as much as possible.  I have at times put a pencil arrow on the pattern to remind me which way to curve from the entry hole.

 

Most times, on an intricate piece, I attach a "sacrifice board" (1/4" luan ply) to the top and sometimes another on the bottom of the piece I want cut.  I consider it cheap insurance against splintering my piece to have it "clamped" between luan.  You MUST have the blade 90 degrees to the table.  Very simple to check.  Take a scrap at least an inch high.  Saw slightly into it.  Turn the saw off, swing the wood around and hold the saw mark against the back of the blade.  If the blade slips into the slot, you are good.  If not, keep adjusting until you can make this work. Don't waste time and money on a protractor.  This is free and 100% accurate. 

 

Good luck Friend and have fun.

 

jerry

[Ron Johnson]

Welcome JY. If your saw accepts both plain and pin end blades I would suggest plain over pin. Most common sizes being #3, #5, and #7 double tooth is a decent start. Popular brands being Olson and Flying Dutchman. Read your manual and search net for endless information. Other than that practice cutting woods such as plywood or any hardwood ¼", ½" or ¾" for starters. Most important wear a good quality dust mask to protect your lungs. Happy scrolling.

[amazingkevin]

Hi all,

 

I've been brainstorming some projects for a few months now, and received my scroll saw today. I purchased a Porter Cable 1.6amp Scroll saw, which accepts  5" pin & pin end blades. I also purchased a set of Olson Saw blades to get started with, which I have yet to try.

 

This is my first time using a scroll saw. I tried cutting some scrap wood earlier with the included blade, just to get a feel for the machine. I ran into some difficulty cutting around curves (I tried cutting out a circle), which I'm hoping to get better at time with practice.

 

I do have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can answer. Ideally, I would like to focus on detailed, intricate work (focus on lettering, custom keychains, nameplates, stuff of the like).

 

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for blades, and also material/wood. I'm looking for something I can pick up at my local Lowe's and/or Home Depot, just to get started. I've read that Flying Dutchmen blades are highly recommended, but wanted to make sure I purchase the "right" set for the type of work I'd like to focus on (would spiral blades be a good idea)?

 

In terms of wood/material, I'm looking for something that is affordable, but with a decent quality to it, and of course, usable with a scroll saw. Perhaps something that will look nice with a simple wood stain, eliminating the need to paint it over, when it comes to finishing options.

 

I've attached some links to below for reference. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and i look forward to learning more.

 

Scroll Saw: http://www.amazon.com/Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Stand/dp/B00UVY8Y1C

Blades: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G33Q6Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

Kind of work I'm interested in making:

http://womeninwoodworking.com/Resource.ashx?sn=ScrollSawnNameplates

 

http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/files/437434/uploaded/sld486-scroll-saw-merry-christmas-letter-pattern2.jpg

 

http://www.coolhammers.com/new_page_8_files/image002.jpg

What Blade Should I Use

Why Do Scroll Saw Blades Break? And how do I prevent it?

Squaring the blade on a scroll saw - YouTube

Scroll Saw Blade Tension Software.

Welcome friend,You'll be a happy camper once you start scrolling.Keep coming back to see what you would have missed ,Welcome again friend

[Kepy]

My go to blades are FDUR #1,3,5.  I have some spirals but despise them and only get them out for large projects.

The one piece of advice that I give to new scrollers is to make sure you always feed the work directly into the blade without sideways pressure.

[scbridge]

My go to blades are FDUR #1,3,5.  I have some spirals but despise them and only get them out for large projects.

The one piece of advice that I give to new scrollers is to make sure you always feed the work directly into the blade without sideways pressure.

 

I actually went ahead and purchased a set of Flying Dutchman spiral blades, based on a few reviews I read (before I was able to catch up with this thread). It seemed like those were a good fit for detail work. I placed the order a few days ago and they are set to arrive in another 2 weeks or so, so I haven't had a chance to test them out. May I ask why you despise them? Is there a big learning curve to getting the hang of them?

 

 

I went to Lowe's the other day and picked up some Oak (1/4"), poplar (1/4"), and craft wood (1/2"). I think these will be good enough to get started on, and to test the blades out.

 

 

May I ask what the main/big/small differences are between spiral blades and reverse tooth blades? It seems like both are recommended for detail work - is there an advantage of one over the other? 

 

I also have a question about drill bits. I have a miscellaneous set of drill bits from when I purchased a drill a few years back. I've been using the smallest drill bit to drill out holes for counters (in letters), but it will not work for everything I have in mind.

 

I am looking for something a bit similar to what was used in this photo - perhaps a little smaller if possible:

https://img0.etsystatic.com/047/0/5964940/il_340x270.664135284_qd29.jpg

 

Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Drills-Metric-Pouch-1-05-2-0mm/dp/B000OVNS0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459012617&sr=8-4&keywords=small+drill+bit

 

 

I appreciate all of the feedback and suggestions so far, and will definitely take everything into consideration. 

[Denny Knappen]

With 1/4" and 1/2" wood I would suggest #1 or #3 blades.  Spiral blades have teeth around the blade.  Flat blades have teeth only on one side.  I use both, but if you want to cut straight lines, use a flat blade.  Spirals take some time getting use to.  If you purchased FD blades, they also sell mini bits.

[Sparkey]

I didn't notice much of a learning curve with spiral blades, but they are the blades I started with. I have a heck of a time using flat blades. I use the FD new 3/0 spiral for all fretwork, stack cutting 3 pieces of 1/4" plywood and hardwood up to 3/8". For larger hardwood I will use a flat blade. Give them both a try and see what you like best. Welcome to the Village.

[Lucky2]

JY, I know what it's like just starting out, we've all been there, and done that. I would like for you to slow down a bit, otherwise, you're just going to be wasting money. You're asking all kinds of questions, which is a good thing as long as you pay attention to the answers. You already jumped the gun and bought spiral blades, not knowing if they are what you need. That's no biggie as you'll probably want to learn how to use them, along with flat blades. But, what type and size of blades did you purchase? Before you start cutting much, you should put on lots of time practicing. Get a piece of plywood and cut it to pieces, practice making turns, angle cuts and straight lines, even practice making sharp zig-zags. Learn all about the blades and how they cut, then you'll be farther ahead in the game. Personally, I don't use spiral blades, I can't control them. I use flat blades, I find them so much easier to use than the spiral blades. Don't be expecting to be a proficient cutter right away, you need to practice to get good. Practice practice practice, then you'll be happy with the outcome. If you want to learn what blade you should use for whatever, check out the Flying Dutchman's site. Mike no longer sells blades, but he still has info posted on what blade to use for whatever you want to cut.

 

Len

Edited March 27, 2016 by Lucky2

[JimErn]

JY

I got my first scroll saw, the porter cable, for Christmas.

 

It seems to work best at 3/4 speed, the hockey puck in the center on mine, and others, was lower than the table top, glue a playing card, x-ray film something to raise it up level or cut a replacement.  Being lower it causes vibration which can break the fretwork pieces.  And keep an eye on it, it does sag after awhile.

 

Slow down, feed the wood slowly and watch the blade/line intersection only, you can NOT look ahead on the line the way you do with power saws.  It takes two hands working together to move the wood, takes time to learn it.

 

I found that putting two 2x4's under the rear legs of the table made a lot of difference in how comfortable I was too, raised the rear about 3".

 

If you do not have an account on craigs list, create one then enter a subscription to the words "scroll saw", I got a 2 year old excaliber-21 with stand for $525 two weeks ago that way - What a difference a saw makes!

 

I have tried Flying Dutchman and Olson blades, the FD ultimate reverse works best for me.  Blades from the big box store are ... well better off ordering good blades.

 

Home Depot sells poplar wood in 1/4 thickness, 4" & 6" wide planks - I used them a lot when learning.and they stain pretty well, no grain to speak of though.

 

Edit - I said when learning, hell I am still learning, that was called wishful thinking on my part>  :-)

Edited March 27, 2016 by JimErn

[scbridge]

JY, I know what it's like just starting out, we've all been there, and done that. I would like for you to slow down a bit, otherwise, you're just going to be wasting money. You're asking all kinds of questions, which is a good thing as long as you pay attention to the answers. You already jumped the gun and bought spiral blades, not knowing if they are what you need. That's no biggie as you'll probably want to learn how to use them, along with flat blades. But, what type and size of blades did you purchase? Before you start cutting much, you should put on lots of time practicing. Get a piece of plywood and cut it to pieces, practice making turns, angle cuts and straight lines, even practice making sharp zig-zags. Learn all about the blades and how they cut, then you'll be farther ahead in the game. Personally, I don't use spiral blades, I can't control them. I use flat blades, I find them so much easier to use than the spiral blades. Don't be expecting to be a proficient cutter right away, you need to practice to get good. Practice practice practice, then you'll be happy with the outcome. If you want to learn what blade you should use for whatever, check out the Flying Dutchman's site. Mike no longer sells blades, but he still has info posted on what blade to use for whatever you want to cut.

 

Len

 

Hi Len,

 

Appreciate the feedback. I did try to read around before making the purchase (forums, reviews, etc). I'm definitely still testing the waters with everything, as I still have a lot to learn. I figured the best way to learn is by doing. I started with the included blade on some scrap wood, and then with one of my Olsen Pin End blades. I will probably hold off on purchasing any additional blades for the time being, until I get a better idea of each (spiral included), and how they work with different types/thicknesses of wood.

 

I cut out a typeface for my first project, using some scrap wood from an old tabletop. I was pretty content with the final outcome, but there were areas for improvement. I struggled with getting a continuous cut, as well as cutting smooth curves (the blade would turn with the wood). I've also been using a straight edge to practice straight cuts here and there, and am starting to get the hang out it. 

 

I have a list of projects in mind, with different levels of difficulty. I'm starting with some relatively basic shapes, and am hoping to move into more intricate work once I get a better understanding of the machine, blades, tension, etc..

 

still have a ways to go but am excited to learn more

[scbridge]

JY

I got my first scroll saw, the porter cable, for Christmas.

 

It seems to work best at 3/4 speed, the hockey puck in the center on mine, and others, was lower than the table top, glue a playing card, x-ray film something to raise it up level or cut a replacement.  Being lower it causes vibration which can break the fretwork pieces.  And keep an eye on it, it does sag after awhile.

 

Slow down, feed the wood slowly and watch the blade/line intersection only, you can NOT look ahead on the line the way you do with power saws.  It takes two hands working together to move the wood, takes time to learn it.

 

I found that putting two 2x4's under the rear legs of the table made a lot of difference in how comfortable I was too, raised the rear about 3".

 

If you do not have an account on craigs list, create one then enter a subscription to the words "scroll saw", I got a 2 year old excaliber-21 with stand for $525 two weeks ago that way - What a difference a saw makes!

 

I have tried Flying Dutchman and Olson blades, the FD ultimate reverse works best for me.  Blades from the big box store are ... well better off ordering good blades.

 

Home Depot sells poplar wood in 1/4 thickness, 4" & 6" wide planks - I used them a lot when learning.and they stain pretty well, no grain to speak of though.

 

Edit - I said when learning, hell I am still learning, that was called wishful thinking on my part>  :-)

 

Hi Jim,

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely look into if the "hockey puck" is leveled or not, as I have been experiencing some shaking with cuts here and there. I think the height (with the included stand), is okay. I haven't worked on enough projects yet to get a good feel for if I think the height needs adjusted quite yet, but will keep the 2x4 suggestion in mind if I do find that it's a little low. 

 

I've been purchasing my blades off of Amazon. So far, I have purchased a set of Olsen Pin End blades and 5 dozen Flying Dutchman spiral blades (2/0, 1, 3, 5, & 7). I will be testing these out for the next few weeks, as I'm still trying to get a better idea of everything. Not expecting to see major progress overnight, as this is something that's new to me. baby steps  

[JimErn]

JY

I wish you luck with the spiral, I've tried them twice now, and keep going back to flat blades.  I just don't seem to have developed the touch to use spirals reliably.

[Tommy Johnson]

You might try and locate another Scroller in your area to help getting you started in the right direction with some one on one instruction? There is plenty of great help here but one on one or in a class is even better! Good Luck and don't Rush it!

[scbridge]

Hi all,

 

I spent some time trying out different blades with various material/thicknesses to see what works for me. I started out with Olsen pin end blades, but ran into issues when trying to make tight turns. I thought they worked well for cutting straight lines, but was a little limiting when it came to more detailed work/sharp turns.

 

I received my Flying Dutchman Spiral blades a few days ago, and just started to play around with them. I started with the 2/0 blade, and tried cutting through some thicker material (random piece, not sure the name). It was maybe a little over 1/2", and the blade snapped mid-cut. I swapped it with a #5 blade, which seems to be working a lot better. 

 

I cut out an ampersand for my first project, using the Olsen Pin End blade. This took me about 4-5 hours. I then used the same template and tried again, this time using the spiral blades. I finished counting out the main shape in roughy an hour and half.

 

I definitely think the spiral blades fit my cutting needs better, when comparing the to pin end blades I started out with. I'm starting to get a better hang of it, but there is definitely a learning curve that comes with these - setting the tension being one of them. I also noticed that for the thicker blades, it's better to cut on the outside of the template line when cutting out the main shape, and then doing the opposite when cutting out counters (inner pieces). I used to cut right on the line when using pin end blades.

 

@JimErn - I checked to see if the "hockey puck" was leveled and it was not. I took in your suggestion and traced the hockey puck template onto 2 pieces of cardstock, taping over the original piece. This reduced a lot of the vibration, and definitely makes a difference when cutting (..also less scary). 

 

I'll try to post some progress photos later on. really appreciate all of the input/feedback so far 

[ike]

Ok that's a;; good answers to your question.I can sum it up in a few works. I always  use olson's blades. have tried FW 's but olsons blades last longer and in my opinion they are the best. just my opinion I very seldom run over 1/2 speed. Don't feed too fast. I use #3,#5,#7, and for thick wood ( 1 1/2) for fretwork it's a #3 & #5 blade

IKE

[cynbone]

Be aware that not all 2/0 spirals are the same. Look at the number of teeth. The higher the number of teeth, the smoother the cut and the thinner the kurf. I could have used this info when I first started buying blades. I have some 2/0 spirals that I will never use because I mostly do fret work and a lot of my blades are way too aggressive unless the project is VERY big. Hope this helps.

[fastfreddy]

I agree with Clayton & use FDUR # 5 and a few times # 3.  Do yourself a favor and don't buy your blades from a big box store.  You will soon find out how poor the quality of the steel is.

 

As for tight turns:  FDUR blades have teeth on the right side (kerf) as the blade is mounted.  It is MUCH easier to make a tight curve if you are turning the wood clockwise as you saw.  Plan ahead so that you can do that as much as possible.  I have at times put a pencil arrow on the pattern to remind me which way to curve from the entry hole.

 

Most times, on an intricate piece, I attach a "sacrifice board" (1/4" luan ply) to the top and sometimes another on the bottom of the piece I want cut.  I consider it cheap insurance against splintering my piece to have it "clamped" between luan.  You MUST have the blade 90 degrees to the table.  Very simple to check.  Take a scrap at least an inch high.  Saw slightly into it.  Turn the saw off, swing the wood around and hold the saw mark against the back of the blade.  If the blade slips into the slot, you are good.  If not, keep adjusting until you can make this work. Don't waste time and money on a protractor.  This is free and 100% accurate. 

 

Good luck Friend and have fun.

 

jerry

Thanks for that bid of info Jerry, I'm new to scrolling also and looking for all kinds of tips and trick I can pick up also.

[trailfndr]

With the Porter Cable Hockey Puck,  I found it is better to make a new one, or put a spacer UNDER the original, than to place something on top of it.  I made several out of Masonite, leaving the shiny surface on top, so that the work piece slid easily as I cut.  You can easily make one from Masonite, or Plexiglas.  Might need to sand down the thickness, but that's easily done by inserting it upside down, and using a orbital or vibrating sander to sand smooth to tabletop so its flush.  Flip it over and your set with a slick surface.

 

As for blades..  WOW,  so many choices and so many different opinions.  When I started, Flying Dutchman had a "Sample" pack of different types of blades that I purchased from Mike.  it held 5 or 6 different types of blades in size #5.  It let me try different ones, without a large output of cash.  My personal preference are the Ultra Reverse, but don't go by what I use, as 95% of what I cut is 3/4 inch hardwoods for Intarsia  I use #5 as my normal blade, but will go to a 3 or even a 1 if I need a really tight cut.  Means slowing down the feed, but they do the job.  I have also tried the olson, and a few other brands, and keep coming back to the Flying Dutchman.

 

For different woods, you can order thin stock hardwoods from  www.ocoochhardwoods.com  They sell different widths and thicknesses of scrollsaw ready lumber in several species of wood.  All are sanded and ready to use.  Delivery is quick, and service is second to none.  They stand behind what they sell 100%

 

Last thing,  if you do a search on the web, you can find some practice patte4rns for the scrollsaw.  I used one when I first began just to learn to follow different types of lines, from sharp corners, to curves.  Was a great learning tool, and allowed me to use basic scrap wood to learn the saw better.

 

Good Luck to you, and remember, the more you practice, and experiment, the better scroller you will become.