Pouring Epoxy Resin in you project?

[RonLes]

I recently finished a project from a pattern downloaded from the catalog on this site. It's a highly detailed portrait of Johnny Cash. I cut the pattern in 3/4 oak. I'm thinking about pouring black epoxy resin in the voids to finish the piece. Is it safe to fill the piece without the epoxy expanding and breaking all the intricate pieces? I've seen other scroll saw projects finished with epoxy but the voids were encapsulated with a substantial amount of wood around the void where the epoxy was poured. Has anyone had any experience with this situation?

[jollyred]

I don't believe epoxy expands as it cures.  Try making some test cuts in scrap wood first.  Fill with epoxy and see what happens.  Don't test it on your beautiful cutting of Mr. Cash.  Let us all know the results, good or bad.

Tom

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

My thoughts are epoxy does not expand. But what I see is leeching into the grains of the woods and can muddy the project. I would just use a black backer and call it a day. 

[preprius]

You could use a shiny black plastic background.

[Millwab]

On 1/3/2024 at 10:44 PM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

My thoughts are epoxy does not expand. But what I see is leeching into the grains of the woods and can muddy the project.

I’ve never used epoxy, but would sealing the wood first prevent the epoxy from seeping into the wood grain?

[scrollerpete]

Epoxy will not bleed in the wood, I have done lot’s of charcuterie  boards and never had any problem

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

1 hour ago, scrollerpete said:

Epoxy will not bleed in the wood, I have done lot’s of charcuterie  boards and never had any problem

I will back off this conversation because I have not done this system and my knowledge is nil. If someone says it will not bleed then go for it. I gave my opinion based on liquid against end grain as with stain leeches into wood.  Here is the same topic a few months back that may help some. Good luck. 

https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/49153-my-color-fill-process-with-step-by-step-instructions-on-the-photos/

Edited January 5, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[TAIrving]

I like pouring epoxy into my fretwork pieces.  It does not expand as it cures and it will stabilize the piece so as to prevent breakage of the smaller parts.  And, if done right it will enhance the beauty of the piece.  But, if done wrong it will detract from the beauty.  

There is a tutorial in the "How To" section of this forum by TJ Brown entitled "Epoxy Filled Scroll Saw Projects".  I recommend you view that tutorial.  

Some additional thoughts:

Wood is porous, some more so than others.  Uncured epoxy is liquid.  If not addressed, it will leach into the wood.  So, seal the wood before you pour.  Use anything you like that seals the wood, shellac, polyurethane, lacquer or even a light coat of epoxy.  

Pay attention to the type of epoxy you use.  You will want a slow-setting epoxy so it has time to work its way into all the fine cutting features of your work and so the bubbles have time to resolve.  

Bubbles you ask.  Bubbles form when you stir and pour the epoxy.  They also form when the epoxy leaches into the wood - it is replacing air from the wood fibers unless you are using wet wood.  Some use a pin to pop the bubbles as they rise to the surface.  Some heat the epoxy to thin it and encourage the bubbles to rise to the surface.  As a note, heat will make the epoxy thin but also make it set faster.  

The recommended epoxy will take about 6 hours to set (4-12).  The Table-Top kind seems to fit the bill for our fretwork projects.  I have used Deep-Pour epoxy (~24 hours to set) and it works but is slow.  

You should choose a tint that is made for use in epoxy.  Lots of those on the market.  

Practice on scraps before doing your prize fretwork projects.  

 

[RonLes]

Thanks for everyone's insight on my question. I really appreciate it!

[clocks and more]

I use Black Matboard, for backing

 

[Dan]

Very nice work. Don't ruin it with epoxy.

I have had epoxy bleed into the wood. I imagine the species of wood has to do with it. If you use epoxy I suggest sealing the wood with a dip in sanding sealer after the project is cut but before pouring the epoxy. If not, when the epoxy settles into the pores of the wood tiny air bubbles come out and I don't enjoy the steps to get rid of the bubbles. Save the resin for a simpler project that you don't mind tossing if it doesn't work. 

I agree with @JTTHECLOCKMAN, just use a black backer.

[Sycamore67]

I would try it with a small trial fretwork.  That way you gain experience and work out any issues. You van also see how it looks. I do not like doing a first time trial on a piece that took a long time to make.

[Davevand]

Epoxy does not expand as it cures, all the epoxy I have used tends to shrink ever so slightly as it cures. The biggest problem you will have is getting the bottom sealed up so the epoxy doesn't leak out, I would suggest gluing a backer board and be sure it is well sealed around the edges. As for the epoxy bleeding into the wood, it might if the wood is porous or has cracks or any kind of voids, ie. red oak, ash, ect. Here are a couple of examples I did, about 3/4 inch thick and 1/4 inch of colored epoxy poured into them.