Struggling with compound chess set.

[rafairchild2]

Let's just say selection of wood is critical in anything you do.  in this case since I am cutting 1.5" thick stock I made the bad choice of using ASH, rather than say Aspen for the light pieces.  I used walnut for the dark.  

I actually started cutting this back in October, and got the dark pieces done, then got on to the light.  What a struggle!  I was so frustrated back in October, I put it away unsure if I was going to finish it. I had already gotten done the rooks and Knights when I stopped, and was debating if I should just banadon the ASH, and change the wood.  But nope.. I wanted my pieces to have some heft/weight.  So I pressed on.

On the back row pieces, I go through 3 to 4 blades per chess piece, 1-2 blades on the pawns.  I am using #9 Flying dutchman ultra reverse.  I went thicker blades so I could nibble, but also have more blade to dissipate generated heat vs the #5's.

It is slow going and I have scorched the wood a number of times on some of the curves. I actually had to slow the blade motor speed way down, and I do a lot of "nibble" turns and angles.

Wow, this really is beating me up.

Of course sanding and using Danish oil to finish are the final steps.

I go in for arm surgery in 3 weeks, so I will lose the use of my right arm for up to 6 to 8 weeks.  So I need to get this done as I am thinking of giving it as a gift to my NATO Branch head (Italian Colonel) who rotates out of NATO this year.

This set is inspired by Venice. 

Just needed to vent. 

Edited May 1 by rafairchild2

[Scrappile]

Have you got a skip tooth blade with no reverse teeth you could try?  Non-reverse blades work best for me when doing 3D cutting.  The reverse teeth inhibit some of the saw dust from clearing.  You certainly did not pick an easy pattern to make.  

Edited May 1 by Scrappile

[rjweb]

I agree with Paul, try a skip tooth or even super skip tooth, keep us updated on your progress, RJ

[rafairchild2]

19 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Have you got a skip tooth blade with no reverse teeth you could try?  Non-reverse blades work best for me when doing 3D cutting.  The reverse teeth inhibit some of the saw dust from clearing.  You certainly did not pick an easy pattern to make.  

I think I have some sample Pegas skip tooth blades.  Will give a try on my next piece. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

That is beautiful. never seen such detail in the chess pieces. I like it alot.  

[rafairchild2]

As I was leaving for base this morning, I checked my blade supply and found a bunch of #10 Pegas Super Skip tooth.  Will give them a try when I get home today.

[don in brooklin on]

I agree with having non reverse teeth blades.  I use FD Polar #5 Blades or Pegas #6 super skip.  I find that using a lower number blade works better especially in tight turns. Just take it slow.

When doing hardwood I wrap in box tap as it seems to keep the blade cooler or gives lubrication.

 

What you have done so far is really nice, 

 

[TAIrving]

Beautiful chess set and a lovely gift for your NATO Branch Head.  Please post pictures of the finished set.    

[barb.j.enders]

Those are beautiful pieces.  I am sure they will be stunning when the finish is on.  What a thoughtful gift.  

[daveww1]

very nice work

[Denny Knappen]

I cut 1 1/2"Ash for my Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments.  I use Pegas #6 Super Skip with no problems.  If you would like to try, let me know.

[rafairchild2]

I just did a piece with the #10 Super Skip.  Yes, easier to cut on the straights, but I found it lacking when I wanted to 'nibble', as this is the technique I use on sharp turns/edges.  I am trying to adjust how I cut to accommodate this.  I also find that sometimes my piece will jump really hard, as I set up for the angle.

I noticed a few 'dings' where I got some jumping.

I'll stick with my FD UR for the inside cuts since they are small, and use the SS on the perimeter cuts.

[rjweb]

Sounds like a plan, keep us posted on the finished set, RJ

[rafairchild2]

Thanks for the tips on using the Super skip.  I forgot I had bought 4 or 5 dozen of the #10s, knowing I would use them sometime.  I got them when they were on an overbuy clearance for cheap. 

After adjusting to how the blade tracks and travels I think I got a good handle on dealing with the ash a little better.

Finished the King this AM.  Only 5 more Pawns to go! Then comes sanding.

I do love the weight of the ash for sure, as well as the walnut.

PS: One trick I learned a while back, when cutting the perimeter, do not cut across the bottom on the first side.  Only do it on the 2nd compound side, this way the piece stays anchored in the body, and does not bounce. It also gives you the most accurate and flat bottom minimizing putting it on the belt sander to flatten the bottom.

 

Edited May 3 by rafairchild2

[Scrappile]

Nice!  I love 3D cutting, when you break, (no should not have used "Break") separate the pieces and see the prize inside!

[Hudson River Rick]

@rafairchild2 Beautiful job on St. Marks Tower.  Love to see the full set when you are done.

rick

 

[rjweb]

Paul, that's like the crackerjack box, we would dump it out to get the prize, these young ones won't know that, RJ

[Gonzo]

Per your quote:

“One trick I learned a while back, when cutting the perimeter, do not cut across the bottom on the first side.  Only do it on the 2nd compound side, this way the piece stays anchored in the body,and does not bounce. It also gives you the most accurate and flat bottom minimizing putting it onthe belt sander to flatten the bottom.”
 

To me, that is the key to compound cutting when the opportunity is there on a flat bottom. Doing that, there is no need to take it to the belt sander. 

I’ve only made 3 chess sets on the scroll saw and what I’ve found is to do only a few pieces at a time. If I do more than 2 or 3, I start to get sloppy.

By the way, that is a very impressive chess set!  Makes me want to make another set. May I ask where you got the patterns? I to would like to see the set when it’s finished. 
 

[rafairchild2]

3 hours ago, Gonzo said:

...

By the way, that is a very impressive chess set!  Makes me want to make another set. May I ask where you got the patterns? I to would like to see the set when it’s finished. 
 

I got the patterns from the book "Making Wooden Chess Sets" a Fox Chapel book.  I am actually looking for a civil war pattern, anyone know of one?

And you are right about about only doing a few pieces in a session.  I find the amount of concentration, making sure that I am making identical pieces to be physically and mentally draining, thus I goal myself one or two a day, sometimes three. 

Granted, I do fit in other projects, such as yesterday I also finished a few toys intended as gifts to one of my bosses at NATO, who announced he will be a first time grandfather.  He was speaking to me at a branch going away party Friday.  We are losing 6 officers this year. Turkish, Spanish, Italian, British, Hungarian and French. They come to NATO HQ in Norfolk for a 3-year rotation.

[rafairchild2]

Arrrggg... My first blown piece!  What a let down when I "crack the egg" revealing what's inside and to see this.  All that wasted time.

My issue I am struggling with is drill bit deflection.  I have to use smaller bits as the inside cuts are rather small.  I try to drill in a little, then back out, drill in some more, back out, etc... I even use surf board wax to minimize friction and heat, but in this case to no avail.  With the deflection it also means the scroll blade starts in a wonky place.  After threading the blade I felt the weirdness and knew something was not right.

At least I can say, I have completed 27 good pieces before getting my first bad one. Yippee!

So I am open to suggestions on drill bit deflection prevention, and what you do. I thought I did everything to prevent it.

I have double checked everything to make sure my bit is 90 degrees to the table.  But I do believe it is because of how hard the wood is, and some of the harder grain is causing the issue on the small bit.

The drill image is the bit that I have to use.  And yes, it is fairly fresh bit.

[Gonzo]

What a bummer! 

Are you “center punching” the hole before you drill?
Also, that is a long way to drill with that small of a bit hanging out that far and then trying to drill that deep of a hole. You will get deflection. Quite often I will chuck the drill bit up so that only 1/2” or so is extended from chuck.  Then I will pull bit out further to finish hole. I would venture to say that you are probably doing this, but I figured I’d mention it. 
 

Edited May 5 by Gonzo

[rafairchild2]

5 hours ago, Gonzo said:

 Then I will pull bit out further to finish hole. I would venture to say that you are probably doing this, but I figured I’d mention it. 
 

Actually I am not, but will do as suggested as it makes perfect sense. Thanks.

But I am getting there. Only 3 more to go before I start sanding.  Ignore the wrong placement of the king and queen.

[Wichman]

17 hours ago, rafairchild2 said:

Arrrggg... My first blown piece!  What a let down when I "crack the egg" revealing what's inside and to see this.  All that wasted time.

My issue I am struggling with is drill bit deflection.  I have to use smaller bits as the inside cuts are rather small.  I try to drill in a little, then back out, drill in some more, back out, etc... I even use surf board wax to minimize friction and heat, but in this case to no avail.  With the deflection it also means the scroll blade starts in a wonky place.  After threading the blade I felt the weirdness and knew something was not right.

At least I can say, I have completed 27 good pieces before getting my first bad one. Yippee!

So I am open to suggestions on drill bit deflection prevention, and what you do. I thought I did everything to prevent it.

I have double checked everything to make sure my bit is 90 degrees to the table.  But I do believe it is because of how hard the wood is, and some of the harder grain is causing the issue on the small bit.

The drill image is the bit that I have to use.  And yes, it is fairly fresh bit.

 

 

About drill bit deflection; back in the day I needed to drill a hole lengthwise down a stainless steel bolt, the only drill bit that would not blow out in under .25" was a cobalt alloy bit. That's been my go to ever since. You can find numbered bits here: https://drillamerica.net/productdetail/d%2Faco65/65-cobalt-heavy-duty-jobber-length-drill-bit

When I'm drilling past 1/2" material I use the drill press and max out the speed (3500 rpm). You would need to heat the drill bit up to 1500 degrees to destroy the temper, you be burning holes in the wood before you got the bit that hot. 

 

[Scrappile]

Another great learning thread!  That is a very unique looking chess set.  Thanks for taking us along on your build.

[rjweb]

It looks great, did you also make the checker board, RJ