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Posted

     When I am dipping detailed fretwork, especially thick fretwork, I will dilute BLO and shellac 50/50 with their thinners so that the finish will flow fully into the fretwork. I will dip for a few minutes or up to several days depending on the thickness of the item being dipped. Once dipped, I allow the excess to drain back into the dipping container, when the dripping stops I wipe any excess off with towels. If I'm starting with BLO I allow it to cure until the smell is greatly reduced, using mild heat after a day or so will speed up the cure time ( I use a furnace vent ). Once the BLO has cured I dip again in shellac, repeat the drain and wipe, then allow about an hour to flash off most of the thinner ( denatured alcohol ) then put back on the furnace vent.

     IMHO the reason the shellac sometimes stays tacky is water trapped in the alcohol thinner, using the warm dry furnace air helps evaporate both the residual alcohol and nay water left behind.    

Posted
1 hour ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Why would you want to dilute a finish? 

Because I would like it to be a little more spreadable and not so thick. I have found that when I paint on the finish it doesn't blend so well between the brush strokes. I have seen many times where people do thin out their finishes and I thought that might help me too

Dick

heppnerguy

Posted

When I paint, I use craft acrylic and dilute with water until I get the right consistency to use in my detail spray gun. You have to use care depending on how much you thin the paint because it will not cover completely with one coat. Also, if you spray it on too heavy with it being over diluted, it may cause the fibers in the wood to rise.

For clear finish, I use Polyacrylic diluted about 50/50 with water. I also put a few drops of retardant to slow the drying process. This allows the diluted Polyacrylic to "level" and give a smooth finish. I sand by hand with a 600 grit after coats. Usually after the second coat you can spray pretty heavy and it leaves a glass smooth finish. Just be sure to have your project perfectly level otherwise it will "level" to the low side and pool there. Good luck!

Posted
6 hours ago, heppnerguy said:

Because I would like it to be a little more spreadable and not so thick. I have found that when I paint on the finish it doesn't blend so well between the brush strokes. I have seen many times where people do thin out their finishes and I thought that might help me too

Dick

heppnerguy

I guess answer below is what you are after. I still do not get it because waterbase is not thick. Artist paints are thick but meant to be so. Any top coat finish use a wipe on and that is as thin as you get. You do not say what paint of finish you are using. If using acrylic paints then thin as you see needed. No rules just taste of what you like. Thin with whatever is the carrier of the product. oil or water.  

Posted

The finish product you are using determines what to use to thin it.  Each product should state what is appropriate in the instructions, on the can.  As a general rule of thumb, mineral spirits are commonly used to thin oil based finishes, such as poly.  Denatured alcohol is the common thinner/solvent for shellac and Lacquer thinner is the thinner/solvent for lacquer. 

According to Jeff Jewitt, in his book The Complete Guide to Finishing, you should not thin waterborne finishes more than 5 to 10%.  Bob Flexner, in his book Understanding Wood Finishing, says you can thin using up to 20% distilled water.

Finishes, such as oil based polyurethane (varnish) & shellac can be thinned to most any level desired.  I am less familiar with lacquer, so I won't comment other than to say that the brushing lacquer I've used in the past tended to be pretty thin right out of the can.  A retarder is often used to slow the drying of lacquer, but this is not the same as a thinner.

I probably wouldn't go more than 50/50 proportion on shellac or any oil based finish.  Less solvent if I'm brushing than if I am wiping the finish on.  It isn't an exact science.  Of course, the higher the proportion of solvent, the more coats you will need to apply to get the same level of protection/sheen as un-thinned finish.  Again, the instructions on the can should say what to use to thin the finish. 

Posted
18 hours ago, Dak0ta52 said:

When I paint, I use craft acrylic and dilute with water until I get the right consistency to use in my detail spray gun. You have to use care depending on how much you thin the paint because it will not cover completely with one coat. Also, if you spray it on too heavy with it being over diluted, it may cause the fibers in the wood to rise.

For clear finish, I use Polyacrylic diluted about 50/50 with water. I also put a few drops of retardant to slow the drying process. This allows the diluted Polyacrylic to "level" and give a smooth finish. I sand by hand with a 600 grit after coats. Usually after the second coat you can spray pretty heavy and it leaves a glass smooth finish. Just be sure to have your project perfectly level otherwise it will "level" to the low side and pool there. Good luck!

  Thank you for your input . I will have to get back to you with a couple of questions, later

Dick

heppnerguy

Posted

For dipping in caned shellac, I mix it with an equal amount of alcohol and store it in an airtight container. I use compressed air or an electric blower along with blue paper towels to remove the excess. Unless it is too old, shellac cures very fast.

I only thin acrylic paint if I am going to spray it, and only use distilled water for this. 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My advice would be to experiment on scrap wood. Take the finish and pour some into disposable cups. Most finishes I use recommend a thinner on the side of the tin/jar/can. Mix different amounts/types of thinner into each cup and paint on the scrap wood. Keep notes and label everything so you remember whats what. I've found most oil-based finishes thin nicely with mineral turps but I'm no expert. Don't take my word for it. Water-based finishes can usually be thinned with water, but again experiment on scrap wood first.

 

I hope someone finds this useful. Happy scroll sawing. 

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