Compound cutting hints needed

[Dennisfm56]

Hi Folks,

Trying something new to me, compound cutting such as the ones in Sam Keener's book. Basically my question is does anyone have some hints when cutting thick stock, such as the 1 3/4 he suggests for his projects. I just did the first cut on one, went ok, but would I have been better off with a slower blade speed or faster? I was cutting poplar at about 5 out of 10 on a Delta using a #7 MGT and taking my time. Should I have been using a different style blade with that thick a stock?

[raymondb]

I spent a bunch of time this past year playing with compound cuts before teaching a program on it at the Showcase in Saratoga Springs this past March.  One thing that I found is that the best blade to use was the Pegas Skip Tooth (or most skip tooth) ... Why?  because while you want the cut, you want to (a) not bring the sawdust back up into the cut (with a reverse tooth) and (b) the skip tooth seems to reduce the pull when cutting.  I buy my Pegas Skip Tooth blades from Artcrafters (https://artcraftersscrollsaw.com/).  Dennis responds quickly.  His site got hacked so he put up a new one but only with the price list.  Don't worry, he'll answer.

Otherwise, slow and steady.  Be comfortable when cutting.  Cut at a steady pace.  Make sure your lines are dark enough to see after putting packing tape on to retape.  Remember that packing tape (or any tape) will lubricate your blades.

[Scrappile]

Only thing I can add is make sure you cut straight into the blade.   Do not rush.  I find myself have a tendency to push to the side, I really have to pay attention to that.  I love 3D cutting. It always amazes me when you remove the waste and see the prize inside that you created.

[Dennisfm56]

45 minutes ago, raymondb said:

I spent a bunch of time this past year playing with compound cuts before teaching a program on it at the Showcase in Saratoga Springs this past March.  One thing that I found is that the best blade to use was the Pegas Skip Tooth (or most skip tooth) ... Why?  because while you want the cut, you want to (a) not bring the sawdust back up into the cut (with a reverse tooth) and (b) the skip tooth seems to reduce the pull when cutting.  I buy my Pegas Skip Tooth blades from Artcrafters (https://artcraftersscrollsaw.com/).  Dennis responds quickly.  His site got hacked so he put up a new one but only with the price list.  Don't worry, he'll answer.

Otherwise, slow and steady.  Be comfortable when cutting.  Cut at a steady pace.  Make sure your lines are dark enough to see after putting packing tape on to retape.  Remember that packing tape (or any tape) will lubricate your blades.

Thanks and I've been buying from Denny for a few years now and completely agree about his level of service.

[OCtoolguy]

I strongly suggest the super skip blades. You won't be sorry. Less buildup of dust means less heat.

[rafairchild2]

Now this might not work well (Maybe it would) for your thicker stock as I generally cut 1.5x1.5" stock, but I made a spring tensioned jig, with tightening nuts.  This way I do not have to tape after cutting the first side, pieces stay where they need to be, giving me greater accuracy.

[Dennisfm56]

19 hours ago, rafairchild2 said:

Now this might not work well (Maybe it would) for your thicker stock as I generally cut 1.5x1.5" stock, but I made a spring tensioned jig, with tightening nuts.  This way I do not have to tape after cutting the first side, pieces stay where they need to be, giving me greater accuracy.

 

[Dennisfm56]

Actually making one, saw the plans on Steve Good's site.

[BadBob]

I have tried several things to hold my compound cuts. So far, a pair of spring clamps works best for me. 

I don't use tape. The spring clamps hold everything in place.

 

[Scrappile]

The clamps are easily made and work well.   They also give me something to hold on to and gives me better control.

[Roberta Moreton]

I use Steve Good’s clamp and a skiptooth blade.