PEGAS issues

[ScrollingJoker]

Hello, New to the forum and new to scrolling however I’m not new to tools and woodworking but I’m no carpenter. Quick background story, I purchased a 21" PEGAS about 6 weeks ago and was enjoying it, vibration was minimal but a little more than I thought it should be but it was cutting fine for all I knew (sitting on my bench not bolted down). I noticed my arm had to be rotated to the left about 2 - 3 degrees to square my blade to the table, odd looking yes but didn’t really think about it too much at first. Then I noticed my work piece would vibrate/move left to right so I really started looking the saw over to see if I could figure out what was happening. After spending time using squares, levels, straight edges etc I found that my upper and lower arms were not parallel with each other, they were offset about 3/16". To shorten this part up, Grobet said they’ve never seen this before and had my saw pick up and a replacement shipped immediately. Absolutely a great experience with them. 
 

So fast forward to the new saw, I’m have serious vibration issues. I can’t get to a half turn on the speed dial before the vibration starts and anything after a half turn renders it completely useless. I have it sitting on rubber pads on a bench just like the first one so I know that’s not the issue. I even tried bolting it to the bench and I thought the bench was gonna vibrate out the door. Any advice on some setup up adjustments, I’ve tried several but I’m willing to trouble shoot more and yes I have emailed Grobet but I don’t expect to hear from them till Monday.

attached image is current saw

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Make another call.

[barb.j.enders]

Because it is so new, the only thing to do is to call, call, call.

[TAIrving]

I also have a Pegas 21" and have it sitting on the workbench, not bolted down.  I have had mine for 4 years or so.  

Mine also vibrates if I turn the speed up too high.  The vibration seems to have gotten worse in the last year or so but I live with it.

Early on I adjusted the feet to distribute the weight of the machine as evenly as I could and that helped a good bit.

Now I adjust the speed for minimum vibration and cut at that speed.  It is plenty fast enough for the cutting I do.  

Suggestions: Use sharp blades.  Keep the tension adjusted.  Hold the workpiece firmly to the table.  Do not push either sideways or into the blade.  

 

[Scrappile]

Welcome to the forum.  I will let the people who have that type of saw give input on your problem. I have had two of that type, older Excalibur and a Seyco.  But that was quite a few years ago.  So I do not want to mislead you.  As I recall you rotate the motor to adjust for vibration.  But be patient, an owner of that type saw should speak up.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

may help a little

 

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=how+to+get+rid+of+vibration+on+a+pegas+scrollsaw&mid=AC2894F75A3F5A1A64B2AC2894F75A3F5A1A64B2&mcid=0395C729DEC84D0CAC315E61F91FF3E5&FORM=VIRE

[kmmcrafts]

Welcome to the Village,

I've written up the tuning process several times on here and it's quite a lot of typing.. Basically I would start with making sure the upper arm is parallel to the table and adjust as needed with the knob on top at the back of the saw. Then I would adjust the set screws in the blade chucks to make the blade in the same position in both bottom and top clamps.. I like to use feeler gauges to get the set screw to clamp at the same position. Then I would slightly loosen the motor bolts and put a small machinist square behind the blade and turn saw at lowest speed and run it while turning the motor. My saw needed to remove bolts and rotate to another set of slots to get it adjusted fully where it run the smoothest and least amount of forward / rearward movement of the blade. You want the blade to move as close to straight up and down at the table level. Doing these things helped my saw run so smooth you hardly know it's turned on..

Most of these things are listed in the manual of the saw.. they do say not to turn on the motor with the bolts loose and say to use a screwdriver to spin the motor shaft.. however I couldn't spin it good enough so I turn on the slowest setting and barely loosen it just enough to be able to rotate it. Spinning slow is hard to see the blade movement but running on low speed you see the movement perfectly and you can rotate while running to see which way to rotate to improve the movement. 

[ScrollingJoker]

Thanks everyone for all the input, minor up date. In order to get the saw remotely usable I had to adjust the arm to 2-5/8" in the rear and 2-7/16" in the front. That adjustment helped to almost half power then the vibration worsened from there. I have not tried adjusting the motor with this set up but will do that shortly.  
 

@kmmcrafts I will try and search for your other posts. They must have made changes to the owners manual because they do mention adjusting the motor while running at the lowest speed 

[Scrappile]

Are you located in the USA?  If so, maybe get a refund and order from Artcrafters in Tennessee.  He is a pegas dealer, a member here and knows and uses a Pegas saw.  AND very good to deal with. You should not have to adjust or fix one of those or other new saws.  

Edited November 22, 2025 by Scrappile

[ScrollingJoker]

Well I tried a few more adjustments and can’t get it any better. The entire back of the machine vibrates like crazy and it sound like something is banging around in there plus I’m getting red paint flakes/dust on my bench coming from the bottom rear of the saw. I really want to make the Pegas work but this is getting frustrating especially since I have things to make. The tech did respond to my email this morning so I’ll have to see what Monday brings. 

[ScrollingJoker]

2 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Are you located in the USA?  If so, maybe get a refund and order from Artcrafters in Tennessee.  He is a pegas dealer, a member here and knows and uses a Pegas saw.  AND very good to deal with. 

Yes I am, I posted on the other forum when I had issues with my first Pegas and Denny and I discussed a few things. I also purchased some blades from him. Great guy. I’m fine doing what you said and giving Denny the business but it won’t solve the issues I had and now having. First saw had a manufacturing defect and who knows what’s wrong with this one.

[OLScroler]

I have a Excalibur and it had to be adjust as did kmmcrafts saw. Rotating the motor to allow for the blade to move straight up and down helps tremendously. I put PEGAS blade holders on my saw to reduce the weight of the original Excalibur blade holders, this took even more vibration out. I place my blade in the upper blade holder consistently in the same position when I change the blade even if it is a different size blade. Also I keep the screws on the upper and lower arms at a loose snug tightness, the tighter these screws are the more vibration my saw has. When the upper arm is parallel to the table I have marked the tension knob with white paint, and turn it consistently almost every time. I know these saws have different names but it seems as if the mechanics of the linkage are almost the same. I hope the best for ya.

[Sycamore67]

I have a Hegner and no vibration issues.  But it is a much simpler machine in terms of the linkages.  It must be incredibly difficult and frustrating to deal with. to deal with.  I do not know why people do not fasten them down to a bench or at least make it possible to temporarily fasten down.

 

I just looked at the exploded diagram for the Pegas and it is a pretty complicated machine.

Edited November 23, 2025 by Sycamore67

[ScrollingJoker]

46 minutes ago, OLScroler said:

I have a Excalibur and it had to be adjust as did kmmcrafts saw. Rotating the motor to allow for the blade to move straight up and down helps tremendously. I put PEGAS blade holders on my saw to reduce the weight of the original Excalibur blade holders, this took even more vibration out. I place my blade in the upper blade holder consistently in the same position when I change the blade even if it is a different size blade. Also I keep the screws on the upper and lower arms at a loose snug tightness, the tighter these screws are the more vibration my saw has. When the upper arm is parallel to the table I have marked the tension knob with white paint, and turn it consistently almost every time. I know these saws have different names but it seems as if the mechanics of the linkage are almost the same. I hope the best for ya.

I will work on it more tomorrow, I have rotated the motor both directions but it’s difficult to tell when the blade is going straight up & down. Best I could do was to put an aluminum gauge block behind the blade while it was running on low and adjust the motor to where the blade wasn’t bouncing the gauge block but I couldn’t get it completely straight up & down. I know all saws will be different but how much do you think you turned/rotated your motor ?

[ScrollingJoker]

13 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

I have a Hegner and no vibration issues.  But it is a much simpler machine in terms of the linkages.  It must be incredibly difficult and frustrating to deal with. to deal with.  I do not know why people do not fasten them down to a bench or at least make it possible to temporarily fasten down.

I actually fastened this saw to the bench thinking it would help but that made it way worse. My other saw was practically vibration free and that saw just sat on thin rubber pads on top of my work bench. 

[OLScroler]

Attached a photo on the amount I adjusted the motor.

[ScrollingJoker]

11 minutes ago, OLScroler said:

Attached a photo on the amount I adjusted the motor.

Ok, thanks. What process did you use to verify the blade was going straight up and down 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I hate to say this but in no way shape or form should you have to do any of this to a brand new saw right from a dealer. I would be on the phone the very next day I saw this. And tell them the next saw they send out better be dead on right or else take it back and return your full amount or a lawsuit follows. I am dead serious. You are messing with a warrenty. If those saws require you to do this then I would stay far away from them. They are not worth the money and the headache. These are not cheap saws. Where is the quality control? They should not leave the shop unleass each saw is tested. Not like they sell millions of these. 

[OLScroler]

Rotate the shaft that you see on the end of the motor with a screwdriver. You may have to go to the next set of slots to achieve satisfactory results.

[OLScroler]

As new as your saw is I agree with JTTHECLOCKMAN

[ScrollingJoker]

33 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I hate to say this but in no way shape or form should you have to do any of this to a brand new saw right from a dealer. I would be on the phone the very next day I saw this. And tell them the next saw they send out better be dead on right or else take it back and return your full amount or a lawsuit follows. I am dead serious. You are messing with a warrenty. If those saws require you to do this then I would stay far away from them. They are not worth the money and the headache. These are not cheap saws. Where is the quality control? They should not leave the shop unleass each saw is tested. Not like they sell millions of these. 

I did reach out to them the next morning which was Friday and I received email feedback this morning (Saturday) wanting me to confirm a setup measurement which I did, unfortunately the communication back and forth is a little delayed. Regarding messing with a warranty, I’m not doing anything to the saw that’s not an approved adjustment in the manual. I 100% agree they should be damn near perfect coming out of the box for the money but if a few adjustments are required (which are in the manual) then I certainly don’t want to go without another saw for another week. 

[ScrollingJoker]

45 minutes ago, OLScroler said:

Rotate the shaft that you see on the end of the motor with a screwdriver. You may have to go to the next set of slots to achieve satisfactory results.

Gotcha, Pegas has a different motor and we don’t have those screws. Manual says with the speed on lowest setting and running turn the motor for adjustment. Just kinda had to tell, I just put my finger on the back side of the blade till it felt smooth. With everything I just did its 99% better but I’m still not happy having to do all this, still gonna follow up with Grobet on Monday 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

1 hour ago, ScrollingJoker said:

I did reach out to them the next morning which was Friday and I received email feedback this morning (Saturday) wanting me to confirm a setup measurement which I did, unfortunately the communication back and forth is a little delayed. Regarding messing with a warranty, I’m not doing anything to the saw that’s not an approved adjustment in the manual. I 100% agree they should be damn near perfect coming out of the box for the money but if a few adjustments are required (which are in the manual) then I certainly don’t want to go without another saw for another week. 

You do what you want. It is your saw but as I said if it were me I would not even touch it and tell them to move the motor and ship it back so it does not move in shipping. What if you had no idea what end is up on a screwdriver. yes there are people like this.  What those screws just loosen up on their own. This tells me they were never tested for accuracy. $1000 + saw and you have to fiddle with it to make it run smooth. WOW. I hope you get it to work for you. Happy scrolling. Look forward to seeing some projects come off of it.

Edited November 23, 2025 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

My saw did the same thing new out of the box.. Mine is not a Pegas but is a Excalibur so same design.. I had to rotate my motor so far I had to remove the motor bolts completely and rotate to a different set of slots 3 times before I got it where it ran smooth like it should. I think they just slap these together at the factory and never test run them.. IF that motor and the linkage arms are binding at any one of the pivot points it won't run smooth throughout all the speed range of the speed dial.. You should be able to stand a Nickle on edge and turn saw on and run it through all the speeds and the Nickle shouldn't fall over... IF it's tuned properly and no factory defects. It took me a good couple days of tinkering with the saw to get it working like it should..

JT is correct, You shouldn't have to be doing these types of things to a brand new saw... I get it with the one I bought because it was a cheap China made knockoff and I didn't know that when I purchased it.. but once I did a little tinkering with it.. it's been a great saw.. Not a saw at the level of my Hawk or Hegner but still been a good saw.. I would have thought the Pegas would have been tested and inspected before it left the factory but maybe not.. Good luck.. 

P.S. IF you moved that arm and it improved or changed I'm betting the motor is just that far out of alignment.. because changing the arm changes the angles of the linkages and bearings etc inside the saw.. You want to start with having the arm at the same distance to the table top at both the front and the back of the arm.. Then mess with rotating the motor..

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

https://pegas-scroll-saw.com/#

 

It is amazing I can not click on the reviews. Now they claim Swiss engerneering. Any Swiss watch I had worked liked it should when bought. It is one thing when a saw gets older and things start to break down and you need to repair or tinker with but to have to do this stuff with the arms and the vibration just does not make sense to me. I love my RBI saws. Set up and scroll the very first day. Even my Hegner. Now the Dewalt that uses that same type linkage was a set up and scroll. Back in the day when they came out of Canada the biggest problem was the table needed some adjutment but that was scrollers preference. That was a $500 saw.