inlay -> inlay -> inlay -> inlay (tips and tricks)

[preprius]

I wanted to get better at inlay using double bevel scroll saw technique.  
I wanted to perform inlay 4 different boards resulting in one board.  Most info I found on youtube only shows 1 layer to be performed. 
After searching and reading many post and descriptions.  It was apparent that there was not many pictures showing the alignment lines technique.  

Here is what I was doing. . . ( I did not create this procedure) I just grabbed some pictures during the process. 

Below picture shows smallest board on top of bigger board.  Typical right,  except that I don't have to align the board edges. 

The above pic shows the smallest (inside out) has already been cut and has fell down into bottom board.  The board on the left is prepared for being the next bottom board. 
Note the black dots are to help me make sure I will be cutting the correct line.  I found that normal tape on the bottom board helps remove top board while keeping the pattern from tearing up.  All patterns are super77 spray glue directly to the wood. 

The cool thing is that once the inside is cut out and removed it creates the window for alignment lines through the middle.  This allows a smaller pieces of wood to be used without aligning all the board edges.  
The following pic shows the separation of the above boards, and the scraps removed. 

in order to get the outer layer cut I had to super77 glue the largest inlay pattern/board to the base board. 

I could not glue all inlay pieces together immediately.   I had to color (dye) the maple woods to match my project. 

let each piece dry and shrink so the can just easily fit together. 
 

Now just to repeat all those 4 inlays 8 more times.   Perform some raised relief cuts and add some tiny scratches to be dyed green (top of feathers).  Then we have a complete project. 
This base board will have holes on the top to hold real peacock feathers. 

I was not worried about the drill holes on this project.  But a guy at the wood store gave me his trick. Put some matching sawdust and with what ever finish your going to use and put it in the hole.   Don't use glue because glue will prevent the finish to penetrate into the wood near the hole.  Must let it dry for a full day,  before putting finish on whole project. 
With that trick I thought I could take and exacto blade create a splinter of the wood to fill the drill hole then use the finish.    But I have not tried those techniques yet. 

All cuts are with #1 super skip Pegas blade.  Only 1 blade was used.  Base board is about 3/8" thick,  all other boards are 1/8" thick. 
#68 drill was used at proper angle.    Since I was inlay 1/8" into 3/8" final base board,  the only board thickness that is important is the board being dropped down.  So 1/8" for all cuts of 6.5 deg table angle.  Yea I asked website to calculate that.   Now that little #68 drill was just barely long enough to go through the 1/8" boards and the  3/8" base board.  I did not have to go to a bigger drill size because of drill length. 

wood used:  walnut stained dark,  canarywood (plain),  2 cuts from maple (green and blue dyed),  and base board is myrtle.

Just sharing tips and tricks that I have read about. 

Me.  Mark Eason

[barb.j.enders]

Thanks for showing us the tips.  Looks like it will be a great project.

[rjweb]

I know if you have any questions you could reach out to Dave or Jim they are the pros of inlay. Sounds like a great idea and looking forward to seeing the results, RJ

[preprius]

update... feathers are installed.