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Posted

So I want to cut out some ones name a round wooden dowl, I am curious as to what blade to use? I am only asking because only recently have I discovered there is a different blade for thicker material. I think if I can remember I only have #5 flying dutchman, I am not convinced it is worthy of the cut, it being older blade. Or not fresh.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Posted
6 hours ago, preprius said:

my opinion is to use a #1 or #3 super skip.  

assumption us the big dowel is not pine and you are going to need sharp corner cuts in letters. 

Also clamp or screw dowel to a flat board. 

 

Mark

well it is pine I believe, I am not sure where I got the dowel but it is about 1 1/4" diameter and yes there are some very sharp corners in the font for the name. I did try to clamp it down with some home made V shaped mounts, but the clamps were not quality. so I could screw it down on scrap piece thanks for the advice. I know this will be a challenge being my first time cutting something like this and I maybe should wait until I had a better machine. This DeWalt DXVS4502 acts like the older Deltas. thank you again for the advice I will try that. 

Posted
4 hours ago, Denny Knappen said:

This is Compound cutting, so as suggested, Pegas Super Skip.  If you are in the USA, I have them in stock.

no it is not, its only one piece of wood, a dowel rod, but I did order some pegas blades. Thank you, I have never done compound cutting but I do want to try that very soon I am just waiting on those blade to arrive, I have not done this hobby in so long I forgot how vital it was to use good blades. Thanks 

Posted

The blade you use must be sharp.   Depending on the wood being sawn, the detail (sharp turns, etc) a blade may last a few minutes to an hour or more before it needs changing.  The size of the blade used will also depend on the size of the lettering being sawn so you can make the sharp turns.  Clear packing tape wrapped around the dowel may help the sawing as the tape has a lubricating affect on the blade and will also prevent burning.  A picture of how the lettering will be sawn on the dowel would help.  Is the lettering going to be horizontal along the dowel or vertical? Will the dowel be mounted on a base like a name plate on a desk?  Are the letters going to be removed from the dowel or is the outside part around the letters going to be removed?   In either case you need to be able to clamp or attach the dowel to a base or between two pieces of wood so it will not turn as you saw out the lettering.  Sounds like an interesting project.  Post a picture when you are finished.

 

Garry 

Posted
On 8/19/2026 at 5:48 PM, garryatpa said:

The blade you use must be sharp.   Depending on the wood being sawn, the detail (sharp turns, etc) a blade may last a few minutes to an hour or more before it needs changing.  The size of the blade used will also depend on the size of the lettering being sawn so you can make the sharp turns.  Clear packing tape wrapped around the dowel may help the sawing as the tape has a lubricating affect on the blade and will also prevent burning.  A picture of how the lettering will be sawn on the dowel would help.  Is the lettering going to be horizontal along the dowel or vertical? Will the dowel be mounted on a base like a name plate on a desk?  Are the letters going to be removed from the dowel or is the outside part around the letters going to be removed?   In either case you need to be able to clamp or attach the dowel to a base or between two pieces of wood so it will not turn as you saw out the lettering.  Sounds like an interesting project.  Post a picture when you are finished.

 

Garry 

oh yes I am waiting on the correct blades I ordered and I will mount it to flat piece so it will be stable. The name is horizontal and at this point I am not sure if it will be mounted or not, I thought I would show to very god friends of mine I know in person. So as you can see in this photo I will be cutting the inside of the letters out, I may have to redo the letter because these were done hastily by gluing them on sticky paper then putting that on the dowel, I have had the dowel for a while I finally decided to try this project with it. Thanks for the advice, I may try the packing tapeJehovahDowel.thumb.jpeg.b933dd62dd5861aa23edfec85efe8ea2.jpeg for extra security also. 

Posted
On 8/19/2026 at 9:56 AM, Denny Knappen said:

This is Compound cutting, so as suggested, Pegas Super Skip.  If you are in the USA, I have them in stock.

 

well im not sure this is considered compound cutting but I did order pegas blades and I will attach it to flat piece and use masking tape to secure it to the dowel more so. 

Posted

 

Some additional notes after seeing the picture. 

Sorry I don't have  have a picture to show just hope you may be able to understand my directions.  In order to cut out the lettering the dowel will have to be supported so it will not turn both when drilling the starting holes to insert the blade and when sawing the lettering.    to do this cut a couple of pieces of scrap 3/8 inch wood a little longer than the dowel and 1 1/4 inch wide.  lay the dowel between the two pieces of wood on edge.   The lettering should be placed so that the sawn letters  will be 90 degrees to saw table .   To hold the wood strips and dowel in place used a couple of mini clamps placed at each end of the wood strips so they will lie flat on the saw table and clamp together.  You may want to add a dab of hot melt glue at each end to ensure dowel will not turn.  When drilling starting holes use an awl to make a small depression for the bit to start.   Note: if you want to leave the centre of the "O" you will have to leave a  narrow bridge in one or two places , two spots would be best, between the outside of the O and the inner part to be left in.  Leave one bridge at the tip of centre piece on right to outside part and another bridge on left side of centre piece to outer edge so you will have two starting holes drilled to saw the "O".   The bridges will then support the triangular piece in the centre. Ensure that the drill and the blade are adjusted so the starting holes and blade when sawing are at 90 degrees to the table.   

 

All the best with your project.  

Garry 

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