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Lucky2

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Everything posted by Lucky2

  1. smart purchase Kevin, it's hard to find someone who can sharpen a circular saw blade. You could practice and learn how to use it well, and then sharpen blades for other people for a few bucks. Way to go!<br />Len
  2. It's a well organized spot. Len
  3. Yes Larry, it will make a difference, you will have to level your scroll saw first if you want exact angles.Len
  4. If possible go for the EX21 Darc, they are teriffic saws, and you usually hear of very few complaints about them. I have one and I love cutting with it, I've only ever used a Dewalt a few times, but, from what I remember about those times, I'd rather have the EX. The EX21 which is the most common one of the bunch, has lots of cutting surface. And one of it's best issues, is that the head of the saw tilts, not the table. This makes it so much easier to cut things on an angle, simply because you don't have to try to hold your wood on a tilted table, you just lay it flat. The blade changes are easy, and the tension is easy to operate also, IMO, there's nothing to not like about the EX's they are great saws. Let us know what you decide to buy<br />Len
  5. Darcy, check this place out www.woodworkersworkshop.com , there's more patterns and more subjects there then you will ever be able to view. Len
  6. BTDT Stevie, I lost all of my woodworking tools and supplies a few years back. The insurance company I dealt with, looked after everything without hardly any questions being asked. They replaced everything, no matter how old it was, all I had to do was to supply them with a list of what was lost. They even replaced some items that weren't mine, I had some of my buddies tools stored in my shop and they were lost also. Of course, I had homeowners insurance with the replacement cost waiver, so they replaced everything I listed. Plus, they left the claim open for six months, just in case I remembered some items that weren't on the original list. The lose of the tools and everything else sucked, but, as for the insurance company, it was almost pleasurable. Good luck with getting your tools, shop and supplies replaced, I hope you have a good insurance company.<br />Len
  7. Dick, you don't want to build a metal wall because it can draw the heat, the best thing to use is a sheet of Cement board. As it is called Cement board, that is what it is made of and it is what most insurance companies demand that you use. Around here you can't get insurance, unless that is what you use around any wood or pellet stoves. It's not very expensive, and it is easy to install plus if you wanted to, you can fill and paint it. Len
  8. It's an outstanding sign Dan, and I see there was lots of hold your breath moments around all of that lettering. And the wheels look to be another one of those moments also, you must have a very steady hand. If this is what the results are when you build a few bridges, I'd suggest that you try building a few more out of other fonts because you definitely got this one nailed down. Thanks for sharing this with us. Len
  9. Sparkey, I agree with most of the others who've replied, and IMO there's none better then Flying Dutchman blades. I've found that sometimes the Ultra blades are to aggressive though, so, I will switch to the Flying Dutchman Scroll Reverse blades. They give you pretty much the same cut finish, and they were the "go to" blade before the FD-UR came on the market. It's usually good to have both types of blades on hand, so that you can switch when you want. Mike is a fantastic person, he'll do whatever he can to help you out. Any time you have a question, he's the guy to call. Let him know what you plan to be cutting, and he'll make sure that you're set up with the right blade. Plus, like the others have suggested, try out different types or sizes, Mike has a sample pack that would be good for you to try out. Len
  10. Baldric, the bear looks good, except for that nose you've planted in the middle of it's face. Clayton has answered most of your questions, with the same reply you'd get from most of us. So you should be all set there, but, I want to reply to the portion of it where you talk about smoke. If your work is starting to smoke, then the blade is dull, it has done all of the cutting it can, CHANGE IT. If you don't stop and change your blade when this happens then you abusing your saw, and something will break eventually. And if something on your saw doesn't break, then you will end up with a cutting that requires a lot more work then is necessary. Blades aren't all that expensive, and if used properly they can and will give you a near perfect cut edge. Plus you won't have to do any amount of sanding, to remove the fuzzies or burn marks from the edge. If you change your blades when they should be, you'd get more enjoyment out of using your scroll saw. The only time I change speeds is if I start cutting a different thickness of wood, and yes, like Clayton I removed the hold-down from my saw. Most people that I know of, that own a scroll saw remove the hold-down.<br />Len
  11. Lucky2

    Outdoor Scrolling

    To many skeeters and other creatures, if you don't watch yourself the bugs would carry you away. Len
  12. Frank surely will be missed David, he was a teriffic person who would do whatever he could to help another person out. I respected the man for his knowledge, and problem solving abilities on most subjects. His cutting on the scrollsaw was beyond reproach, just think of the beautiful bamboo cuttings he used to make, they were impressive. Condolences and prayers go out to his family and loved ones, they will be hurting for a long time. David, how is "kanoka Bonnie" taking this news, she must be heartbroken? Len
  13. Around here we use 7/16" on garage interiors, basement walls, and workshops. Len
  14. Hang in there Sully, it's a tough battle, but with the Lords grace you will be alright. I was in the same situation three years ago as you are now, it all worked out fine for me. Granted we live in two different countries, but, there has to be some sort of similarity in the rwo systems. It took a few phone calls, and a lot explaining things out to the people handling my claim. Fortunately, I was lucky enough to get one of these people to understand, what I was trying to explain. From that point on that person took over my claim, and looked after everything. It was so nice to get the phone call that told me everything was settled, and that they were very sorry for putting me through such a stressful ordeal. This wasn't the only good news that I recieved from them either. It turns out that I didn't file for disability when I was eligable to do so, they discovered this through their investigation. Man was it nice to get the rest of the news that they had for me, you see I had to go for about 4-5 months to get everything settled, so they owed me back pay for those months. The best news was that I was reinstated for life, and that they also owed me for the two years that I had missed out on claiming later than I had to. Hopefully, you'll get your claim settled fairly easy, and to your satisfaction. You will be in our prayers, take care.<br />Len
  15. Whatever you use or do, make sure that you use mould resistant materials. Basements are known to be one of the most common places there is, to find mould in your house. If you've never worked on finishing up a basement, you should look into what is involved in doing it properly. Did you ever consider using ridgid foam sheets? They don't promote the growth of mould, and they can be very effective in warming up a basement. Plus, if you tape the seams, it can be reguarded as your vapor barrier. Oh, one other thing, please don't use regular sheetrock, or drywall materials, if you do you'll probably see mould start to grow within a few weeks after installation. You should use cement board, or a type of drywall that is mould and mildew resistant, if not one of those, then you could use OSB, but it should be sealed also, so that it doesn't promote mould also. Len
  16. Holy smokes, there's lots to look at there. It seems to be a bit disportionate the number of turners to the number of scrollers, but, it looks as if you did all scrollers proud. Personally, I've never sold anything at a showing, if it wasn't booked or advertised as a sale, people just came to look at what was there. Len
  17. Congrats to you and your Mrs Dan, every Monday should start off like this. I hope she'll share it with you. Len
  18. Cute, but, with there faces being so close to the table, I think that they should be wearing something to protect them from the sawdust. Len
  19. David, that pic kinda looks like your avatar, the only thing missing is the dogs. Len
  20. Your making great progress with it Dan, I like all of the recepticles that you're going to have. Len
  21. Bob, some of the new EXs' have a dust port on them, plus I think that you can purchase and adapt them to old saws that don't have it built in. I'm not sure where I saw it, but if you check with Ray at Seyco, he could probably set you up with one. Len
  22. I'm wondering have any of the transfers from Free4All let Rick in on where a lot of you are turning to to get your Scrolling fix. Maybe you should invite Rick and Gina to join the Village also, That way they would still be involved in scrolling and wouldn't have all of the headaches and hassels that come with operating their own site. Plus, they would be able to keep in contact with all of you, that they consider family and friends. Just a thought, it wouldn't hurt to ask. Len
  23. Rteubner, I set the tension on mine by sound, pluck the blade with your thumb nail and it should ping or sound like a high pitched guitar string does. I don't own a Dewalt scroll saw I own an EX21, but most of these things your asking about pertain to most, if not all scroll saws. With you being new and all, why not check out Steve Goods scrollers site also? I forget what his address is, but if you google him it will show up. He has lots of info and tips, for someone just starting out. Len
  24. Tuesday 9:00p.m. for me please. Len
  25. Nicely done, pink glitter frames should look good. Len
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