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JTTHECLOCKMAN

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Everything posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN

  1. Once again. Danish oil IS BLO, mineral spirits, polurethane and some driers mixed in. BLO is just an oil and if you mix Mineral spirits with it you are thinning it that is all. You are not making it dry faster or any other thing. Danish oil takes longer to dry because of the poly mixed in. BLO will not dry but will be absorbed faster but both need to cure let alone dry before any top coating. Putting Danish oil on top of BLO will not change the color unless you use a darker shade of Danish oil. The same stuff. It may look darker because you now have a film finish on top as opposed to a oil that soaked in. Put any lacquer or poly on top of BLO and it too will look darker but it is the refraction of the finish. With either finish you are looking at a minimum of 24 hours and longer for Danish oil. These are my opinions. Nice puzzle and I bet they are good sellers. Good luck.
  2. Well I guess anyone can call themselves what they want. But I think a criteria would be, have you been published or shown in art galleries. Have you won prestigious awards. Is your work looked upon by other artisans from other medium. Have you taken your talents and taught others. Have you produced your own work and not just using other's patterns and cutting on a line. Heck anyone can do that. Take the scrolling field and add your touch to it. Things of this nature would make you a master scroller. You served your time or apprenticeship and have gotten to the point your skills are at the utmost. I think it also includes many all around attributes in that can you convey your talents to others. Is your work recognizable. Just my thoughts. Now I will say I am very good at scrolling and have done it for over 30 years but do not consider myself a master because of the above ideas. I believe there are Master scrollers out there. People like some of your top pattern makers who also scroll and teach and write books like John Nelson.
  3. The big name one that gets good reviews and is more versatile is this one. www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Oscillating-Edge-Belt-Spindle-Sander-EB4424/100061671?&cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25T+Power+Tools|&mid=ZlQ5WRNX|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcri
  4. Nice cutting but just not a fan of painting any scrolled piece. To me it cheapens the look. But everyone is different and has different tastes. Enjoy and happy scrolling.
  5. That plastic retaining clip is a piece that stretches with time but can be bought. I replaced mine with a piece of thin spring steel. I do not have the barrel clamps but it still uses the plastic retainer. That is correct if you did not have that if a blade broke the bottom clamp would fall off and probably get lost in the mounds of saw dust you will be making. Good luck they are a good reliable saw.
  6. I say cut down on the design and make is less delicate. Save those type designs for wall plaques or desk signs. Less is more some times. Or make the design with all pieces touching and no floating edges. I have done many fret work designs in napkin holders but there were no floaters or unsupported edges. Still get the same effect. I just took another look at your design and there would be absolutely no reason any hardwood could not be used. 1/2" to 3/4" There are 2 free standing pieces that are well within the pattern that they would not be in danger. Good luck. I also believe natural woods are rich looking over painted objects. This is one reason I do not paint. I choose 3/4" for all my napkin holders.
  7. Myself i do not mess with paints and colors because they get messed up with time. I always make things out of red oak and use a Danish oil as my finish. If I do colors it is with natural woods and their different accents.
  8. I have bought many of my clock making parts from here over the years. They were always good to work with no matter what was wrong and when. I have not bought inserts much these days except for some special ones which I found are not being sold any more. I recomend these people. www.clockparts.ca
  9. The clock industry has changed over the years. Many of the better brand clocks are no longer to be found. Variety is also limited. So depending on what type style and price range you are looking for it is tough to tell you. How large?? Are you talking clock motors or inserts??? Clock inserts come in 3 catagorys, good better and best or economy, standard, and premium. Here is a good past thread from here that may interest you. www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/21804-clock-inserts/?hl=%2Bclock+%2Binserts
  10. I think Len just said it best. I know I would have charged 3 times that for each piece and see what the person had to say. I am long done with making things for give aways. That is for the beginners. When you have been doing it for awhile your skills have increased and so has your knowledge. Also you should have a basic idea of what your work is worth in YOUR area. Doing things for family is a different story so do not mix the 2. You start undercharging to friends and workers and you are in a tailspin because people will now start comparing and yes friends do talk.
  11. I too go as high as 220 and on rare occassions I will take a piece to 600. The oil will always soak into wood no matter what grit you sand to. But what you are doing with higher grits is closing the pores of the wood so allowing the oil to penetrate will take longer and you will not get as a deep penetration. Sometimes this is an effect people use when staining. It is a way to control the depth of stain and the color. Finishing is a science in itself if you really break it down and look at it. Many things and many ways a simple finish can change the look of a piece.
  12. Great job and nice story. I do hope they find a cure and he lives to a healthy age. Thanks for sharing.
  13. Alot has to do with the look you are after. I have used Cherry many times. I mostly use a Danish oil as my finish coat which seals it and adds a low luster to it. But I have also done a BLO with a satin lacquer finish. I just do not like the look of poly on wood projects unless it is called for for protection. Lacquers will allow the wood to have a deep look to it. Cherry will darken with time no matter what you do. The more it is in the sun light the quicker this happens. But it is a rich look and that is why it is a favorite for many furniture makers and cabinet makers.
  14. Festool, now you are talking quality hands down.
  15. Thanks. I would never join anything like that. If i want a book or dvd I go to amazon or a woodworking store and buy what I need.
  16. Use oak plywood. Make the face piece thicker and the backer thinner. Or make the face piece real thin and the back piece thicker. Put the piece in a frame. The wider the project the more chances of warping.
  17. Without question this is the best sander I ever used and will ever use. It is my do everything sander and I have a lot of sanders. But always go to this one. Easy to buy paper for and change it. I do not worry about dust because I either sand out doors mostly or use a down draft table if doing indoors. All those sander with the holes to me are useless. You still get dust in the air. My 2 cents. www.rockler.com/porter-cable-speed-bloc-quarter-sheet-finishing-sander-330?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI)%20Shopping%20-%20Top%20Sellers&utm_content=pow
  18. What is the woodworkers guild?/ I know there is a penmakers guild but that is where the elite pen makers enter piece of work for scrutiny and validation of excellence in the eyes of a certain few so that you are admitted into a guild. You then can boast that you are a member of that guild. Is this the same thing?? I believe turners have a guild also.
  19. What is it that you are actually doing??? Are you using a solid wood as the backer and then scrolling an overlay piece and gluing it to the backer??? The grain of the wood will usually tell you if it is going to warp and how large the piece is. Quartersawn wood is the best for not warping. Facesawn or flatsawn will warp the most. If painting the back board why not use plywood. Need an example to help more.
  20. I did the same as DW. Plexi allows the piece to slide around just enough.
  21. Did not realize there are so many blind sanders here The holes do not need to be exact. You are not picking all the dust up with those vac systems at all. Good luck with all the dowels. Round over the tops so you do not start picking away at the pad too if you are going to do that.
  22. It is one month old do not fix. Bring it back ONE MONTH OLD
  23. I buy from all the places. Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Walmart Woodcraft is where I get my velvet and not felt. I buy those dots from National Artcraft.com I use them on all my desk items and even on wall hanging items. never had any come off after they were applied and in fact they become even harder to get off with time.
  24. Just take it back to Home Depot for a new one. Do not even try to mess with it. Tell them you want a new one and take nothing less. No repairs. Stand your ground if they give you any grief. Talk to a manager and threaten to go higher. They will take care of you. I say this because I am not sure of their warranty policy. Be prepared as I always say.
  25. If you feel ambitious you can make your own hands from some thin BB plywood or even thin metals if you can cut metals. Make a bullet shape. The sky is the limit to what you can do with any pattern. Just have to think outside the box sometimes. Good luck as you progress with this hobby. Not sure how large this is but it really does not matter, if it is a wall hanger or a desk clock you could put a couple of six shooters on each side of it to surround it. I know Wildwood designs sells a clock with six shooter and you can always adapt it or have someone here make a pattern for you. Just a couple more ideas.
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