JTTHECLOCKMAN

Are you looking for this? Response stopped Certainly! Scroll saw cutting is a fascinating craft that combines precision, creativity, and patience. Let’s delve into the value of scroll saw projects: Experience and Skill Development: Working with a scroll saw provides a unique experience. The process of selecting patterns, handling the delicate blade, and maneuvering the wood demands skill and attention. As you gain expertise, you’ll learn to anticipate the blade’s movement, adjust tension, and create intricate designs. Each project contributes to your growth as a woodworker. Hours of Dedication: Scroll saw projects require time and dedication. The hours spent meticulously cutting intricate shapes add value to the final piece. Whether it’s a delicate fretwork ornament or an elaborate wooden portrait, the effort invested becomes part of the project’s worth. Artistry and Aesthetics: Scroll saw cutting allows for artistic expression. The ability to transform raw wood into intricate lace-like patterns or detailed silhouettes is captivating. The aesthetic appeal of scroll saw work—whether displayed on a wall, as part of furniture, or as standalone art—enhances its value. Customization and Personalization: Scroll saw projects can be customized to suit individual preferences. From choosing wood types to adjusting patterns, each piece becomes unique. Personalized gifts, home decor, and functional items (like wooden puzzles) hold sentimental value for both the creator and recipient. Attention to Detail: The precision required in scroll saw cutting sets it apart. Unlike other woodworking tools, the scroll saw allows for intricate curves and tight corners. The meticulous attention to detail elevates the value of the finished work. Market Value: The market for scroll saw creations varies. Some buyers appreciate the craftsmanship and are willing to pay for unique, handcrafted pieces. Factors like wood quality, complexity, and finishing contribute to the market value. In summary, scroll saw cutting isn’t just about creating objects; it’s about the journey—the hours spent refining your skills, the joy of bringing patterns to life, and the satisfaction of holding a finely crafted piece in your hands. Whether you create for personal enjoyment or to share with others, the value lies in the process and the end result

First things first. I have been scrolling for over 40 years and never never never once did I ever keep tract of amount of holes or time cut. I ask you for those that do, WHY??? What difference does it actually make in the long run. When the project is done it is done. If you charge by the hour you are not doing yourself justice because you will never get enough money per hour. I laugh at people who have all these special formulas for trying to put a price on things. I see this alot on the pen turning sites now too. Do it long enough you know what a project should sell for because they fall into categories. Portraits, desk clocks, puzzles, intarsia and so forth. If it is an unusual size then the price can vary. Just because a piece has 10 more holes it should cost more?? Why?? Next when I was on the circuit I scrolled longer at a saw because I knew I needed stock. If I was just making something for the sake of making, I scroll till I got tired. I do not have set times. Some days you feel better than others. Now that I am retired and do not scroll much any more I go till I want. I do the same now with my pen turning. No time schedules here. As I got older I can not sit as long but that comes with age. Eyes tire faster too. Could not put any time numbers on any of that. I may put a mental stopping point on but it means nothing in the whole picture. When I was on the circuit I did the assembly line thing though. Sand and prep wood. Lay patterns on wood. Drill and cut. Lay it aside and go to next one. One day I would strip patterns and take outside for routing if need be or just sanding. next day do a bunch of dipping in stain. Next day or two days later after finish has dried I wax pieces and put aside. That to me was a more productive way of getting things done. We all come up with a method that works for us.

heat is your friend to take anything with adhesive off. Just like taking a pattern off a project. use heat gun. It works well.

Did the legs of the saw change any. Maybe try spreading if they can. Or maybe the rubber grommets need to be moved .Is the bench top flat?

If you are pulling blades from the same batch, try switching to either different brand blades or a different group of blades.

Over the years I had blades that did wonky stuff too. But you notice right away and just change blades. To have a saw just all of a sudden do something weird just hard to find. You should get a warning of a sound or an occasional bad cut. I gave you all I have too.

Is it the same volt rating? That is important.

If that being the case can you push on the arms and do they move. Maybe a bearing has worn out but again as the saws moves it should show signs of vibration. I know on the Dewalts the table use to rock. You would see this when you put your weight on one side of the table to the other when shifting your cuts. Maybe look at that. We are all just spitballing here.

I agree it never was one size fits all. I use to make tissue boxes in the 90's and they were all different sizes. How many different candle jars out there.

I do not have that saw and no little about it. But you need to look at the action itself. Manually push the arm up and down with the square next to the blade and if the blade moves straight up and down then it is not the saw and it is your pushing technique. At times we get to pushing too hard and you are putting pressure where there should not be. As you are cutting let off from pushing and if your piece walks back to a certain position it tells you that you were doing too much side pressure. It happens to all of us. May have to change the speed of the saw one way or other. Certain woods just cut slower than others. Other than that I can not help.

If you are asking me, that is fine what you did.

It is because it is the easiest. To use an inline amp meter means alot more work. The Fluke meters are the gold standard along with Simpson meters. These inexpensive meters are quick and easy for homeowners to use. Measuring tools such as scrollsaws that are below an amp really are non concern factors in a scheme of wiring. It is like trying to measure current draw from an LED light. You would actually get a more accurate reading with clamping around the hot wire at the source as opposed to adding the extra device. Just an opinion.

Rolf, an aside question, was that meter able to read below an amp?? I am surprised. Those inexpensive meters are really not that accurate.

Again just my opinion. if you have room for a bench top unit you have room for a full size one. The room is straight up and down, not width wise. Table top bandsaws have a tendency to be flimsy and vibrate alot when cutting. You need to lock them down if doing any heavy cutting. 1/2HP motors is about all you get and that is pushing it. 3/8" blade is max you can use. Yes they are good for small cuttings but I do not get it on a bandsaw. Again and I stress this, this is just one man's opinion. Do as you wish because I am sure as the day is young that people will come on here and tell you all the good things they do with their bench top bandsaws. And maybe so but not for me. Good luck. One other thing, I went to look that saw up and they do not make it any more so now you have to worry about availability of parts. If you want one in that same class, the Wen suppose to be the tops out there for $160. Probably came off the same line. Rikon is another.

My opinion is NO!!!! Just an opinion. Now I am sure they probably did some upgrades from years ago but my brother bought one of those 9" or 10" bench top saws. He knew I am a woodworker so he asked me to tune it because the blade was wondering and could not control. Well have to tell you with the plastic parts and those plastic tires that they used it was no wonder the blade would wander. I tried my best to tune it but no luck. He did take it back and got his money back. He does not do much woodworking and if he needs something done I usually do it. Again my opinion and it is worth what you paid for it. In my eyes I would never buy a table top bandsaw That is why I am staying out of that other thread.

What also maybe happening is a conflict with the DC of the saw. Both tools are working on speed controllers. The vac has built in speed controller which maybe effecting the startup but it all has to do with current draw. Maybe the guy from Festool did not realize the saw is DC. Most times those vacs are used with portable tools and stationary tools that are AC. Maybe play with the vac speed controller and you can sync it up to tool.

The Festool vac is sensitive to current changes and when you adjust the speed you are changing current ratings. I suggest if you want to do this then do not turn speeds while the vac is running. Try turning the speed to 7 or 8 before you start vac and see if it runs. It should. Or you can try going very slow with the speed changes and let the vac catch up electronically. This is a safety built into the vac. Something like a GFCI.

You are over thinking it. just try to use the smallest bit you can to match the size of the blade. Drill at the very edge of the line. Either side is fine. If you are that anal about it you can do a couple things and that is increase the thickness of the line after first cut to eliminate the roundness and slightly enlarge the line past your initial entry hole. No one in the world except you is going to know. Remember you are making a hand made item. You are not a robot or a laser cutting the pattern. I bet when you are all done not one of your lines will be perfectly straight. But they will look fine because they will be close enough. It is something newbies must get over and the more you scroll the more little tricks you pick up. Good luck.

I go to FedX shipping and they have copiers of all sizes and do it myself there. Have been doing that for years. I control the outcome. I am sure you will bring up expense but it is write off for the business. You are paying for inks and paper at home too. Wear and tear on copier. I use to make a ton of copies when I was full bore operation. they have the latest in business copiers too. Excellent quality.

That is correct I asked Steve years ago and his answer was many of his projects are computer generated and not stained at all.

Very nice idea. Make for a great project for the router and a jig.

Nice sentiments and ideas. I have very little family left so not sure where my stuff will wind up. But over the years I keep giving away both scrollsaw stuff and now tons of pens. Just gave my sister a gift for her new home she just moved into. I wonder if I will be remembered on any forums I belong to. Maybe a time or 2 my name will come up, good or bad.

yea it has been so long ago that I needed to buy scrollsaw blades and have enough for 2 life times. I tried a few pegas blades but like other things I just grew into the FD blades and they are my blade. I do not use their jewelers blades. I buy true jewelers blades when I am scrolling brass and other metals. #5 Penguine silver reverse is my go to blade for just about all cuttings. Just the one I locked in on. Yes Bill Young was on all the scrollsawing sites along with a couple other Canadian scrollers. As far as the other seller maybe I just confused them with Denny but I thought for sure I saw someone on FB. Memory is not what it use to be. As far as blades I know for fact FD blades are not all produced the same way and some are so called stamped but stamping is also a term used to thin the blade and cut to size, and not cut the teeth.

I am taking mine with me. I told everyone to just dig a bigger hole.

Kevin look at the photos of the blades from FD and tell me they are not straight. You keep saying they are canted. Some of them are but the ones with a alternate tooth are straight. They are called something different but I tell you for sure they are not stamped like you are thinking. . When you alternate the teeth they have to cut straight. what way would they cant? Maybe they use a different machine than pegas yes I mixed up who sells FD blades. What is his name here. that took over for Mike. Remember I have not been here for quite some time. All my correspondence with Mike was on an older computer and I never carried it over to the last 2 computers. I use to talk to Mike almost every week. He liked to just talk and we both hated a guy if you remember William Young. Talk about guy that thought he knew everything and he was a tester for Pegas blades when they first came out. Bill got himself banned from just about every site he went on. he started his own site and you had to register through him if he wanted you. Do not know if he is still alive or not. I can tell you stories of how he tried to ruin Mike and his business because of the Pegas blade. Maybe that is the reason I hate that blade. Take it for what it is worth. I have tried back in the day probably every blade that hit the market. Steebar Corp use to sell a blade called tiger blades or something like that. They were a German blade and they were a great blade too. I am sure I still have some of those. Those precision ground blades are super sharp and the teeth are thinner. Again made differently than a Penguin silver reverse blade. I know Wooden Teddy Bear took over Mike's site but someone is selling FD blades. Help me out here. Kevin this link may help you in your explanation of straighter cutting. The difference between milling and precision ground blades. Why one blade so call cuts straighter while one wanders. When comparing blades you then need to compare apples to apples. PG or milled blades. https://northernnester.com/scroll-saw-blade-types/