JTTHECLOCKMAN

I have used both black and white and sometimes I think they mix the names. But never had a problem. I treat all woods as toxic and wear some sort of mask when cutting any woods. I also wear some sort of glasses to at least keep shards from getting in the eyes. Have to say of all the woods I have used over the years I never had an allergic reaction to using. It actually is a soft wood. Not sure why you are having problems drilling. Could you post a photo of the wood in question. https://www.wood-database.com/limba/

Rolf is correct. This is made to fit on shop vacs and not dust collectors. I do have some 2" hoses set up like Rolf from my large dust collector but they go to my spindle sander and one of my portable sanders. Those do not collect chips, they collect dust only. That is why we can get away with it. If you scroll through the photos that are embedded in that original link, you will see what the intensions are of this tool and you will see how it was intended to be used. The shop vac just needs to be a fairly powerful one like the Ridgid units. The size does not matter. they show more of the pieces you can buy to compliment this articulating arm. As I said if you have a decent dust collector system (dust collector is different than shop vac system) then branching off it like they show will work but limited. They are not designed for small hoses like that. A shop vac is. All your questions are answered in that OP link. Just need to keep scrolling and following the questions asked and answers given and within them there are additional links to click on. You can see videos of it in action and all. It is pricey, but some woodworkers that I trust have given their approval on it so it does work. These have been sold at woodworking shows for awhile now.

Well I can tell you right now that the best dust collection at a lathe is a good dust collector system. This is not that. This is a supplement of for using a true dust collector. It is designed for use with a shop vac. The photo where they hook to a dust collector is pretty but because you are choking down the size of the hose the efficiency is so pinpoint it is not worth it in my opinion. As I said my objective is to be more pinpoint because of the dust I will produce when turning those billiardballs. Even when I try it on my tablesaw I do not expect much because again I have to focus right over the blade. My dust collection on my lathe is a 8" hood with a 4" hose hooked to it and works well but dust gets pulled toward it. It is a bigger hood so captures more dust as this is a small hood to match the CFMs of the shop vacs.

I bought this about 2 months ago. I have yet to set it up. But my thoughts I will use this in conjunction with my dust collector on my lathe for now. I plan on making some billiardball trinket boxes and the dust from them is pretty intense so I figured I will add my shop vac with this arm in a different direction to capture the dust. The arm is articulating enough and small enough to get in a position under the turnings as opposed to my dust collector hose and port. I also thought it maybe something I could use on the top side of my tablesaw. Yes I have my dust collector hooked to the bottom of the saw but many times what happens is when you use a zero degree throat plate the dust stays on top mostly as opposed to all be sucked downward. That I can tap off my dust collector hose. These are my intensions. It is a dust collector and not a chip collector. It will collect chip if used as a vac hose where you need to be real close to them Just like any dust collector. That is why they are called dust collectors and not chip collectors. Now setting up for scrollsaw I have no idea but could imagine it would work depending on the power of your shop vac or dust collector. I never used any vac system on my scrollsaws in all the years I scrolled and I scrolled alot. I just used a good dust mask and cleaned the area after each session of scrolling. I have an overhead air cleaner that did a great job and still does of cleaning air in the shop. I ran that because the noise is nothing compared to listening to a shop vac for hours in the shop and besides, shop vacs are not built to run for hours at a time. Running hoses to my dust collector would just be a waste of time in my eyes because how small you have to choke the hoses down and that defeats the efficiency of any dust collector. These are my thoughts on this topic.

There is some fine detail in there. That is what makes it stand out. Beautiful work.

Very nice detailing. Looks great.

I deleted my remarks and am out of this conversation.

Ray I did not get to see your reply to my reply which I guess you did not approve. Approve or not it is just my thoughts. I ask you why do you think that HF started making Hercules and Bauer tools. The reason is because they had so many complaints and returns for the junk they were selling before. if the tool fits your $$$ value and needs by all means buy it. But when I buy a tool that has a motor on it I want one that is reliable and brand name. yes they all have lemons but I feel better. Too late in my lifetime to worry about $$$$. That is just me. You noticed I never said in this thread or anywhere on this forum to not buy HF tools. I buy lots of things from them that are not powered. Again I stress this that is ME.

Never, Never, Never use a VS speed control footpedal with a scrollsaw that is VS speed control. You will burn the board out or possibly the motor. Speed controller can not control a speed controller. Get a on/ off foot switch and set speed by way of scrollsaw. I have always used the momentary ones where you need to stay on it to keep saw running. There are ones that is push to start and push to stop. But I found that just taking your foot off the footswich is faster than trying to panic and step on it again to stop for fear of stepping on it more than once and you now start it again. Especially when the blade breaks and the blade will break.

This is true Travis and that is why as many scrolling questions are just impossible to answer and put hard answers to. You scroll till you feel it is time to take a break. Your body will tell you. I am done with any sort of time lines because I do not scroll to sell any more. So you always have to take those things into consideration too. If I go into the shop these days it is to make something. Wandering around I can do outside or at the computer. You better be focused when in a shop at any time. There are many things in there that can hurt you. My time these days are pen turning and lathe oriented. That too takes time but that is all done standing up so there is that factor as opposed to sitting. Everyone will find their own rhythm the more they do this.. they find out what works well for them.

Travis I just reread your response and have to ask, how do you get anything done? 10 to 15 minutes and you have to get up. Then take another 5 minutes or more to do other things. Concentration man is key. if you have to rest after 15 minutes of cutting you need to get your chair or whatever in a better position to cut longer. I bet 30 minutes is an average here for normal cutting. I would go bonkers if I am getting up every 10 to 15 minutes. i think it is a better question to ask what position you work in when cutting. if your shoulder are slouched over and neck bent down to get a better view, of course you will tire faster. that is poor posture. You should be able to sit upright fairly straight while scrolling and if you have eye strain then either use a magnifier or get better glasses. Scrolling is suppose to be relaxing like sitting and watching TV.

Are you looking for this? Response stopped Certainly! Scroll saw cutting is a fascinating craft that combines precision, creativity, and patience. Let’s delve into the value of scroll saw projects: Experience and Skill Development: Working with a scroll saw provides a unique experience. The process of selecting patterns, handling the delicate blade, and maneuvering the wood demands skill and attention. As you gain expertise, you’ll learn to anticipate the blade’s movement, adjust tension, and create intricate designs. Each project contributes to your growth as a woodworker. Hours of Dedication: Scroll saw projects require time and dedication. The hours spent meticulously cutting intricate shapes add value to the final piece. Whether it’s a delicate fretwork ornament or an elaborate wooden portrait, the effort invested becomes part of the project’s worth. Artistry and Aesthetics: Scroll saw cutting allows for artistic expression. The ability to transform raw wood into intricate lace-like patterns or detailed silhouettes is captivating. The aesthetic appeal of scroll saw work—whether displayed on a wall, as part of furniture, or as standalone art—enhances its value. Customization and Personalization: Scroll saw projects can be customized to suit individual preferences. From choosing wood types to adjusting patterns, each piece becomes unique. Personalized gifts, home decor, and functional items (like wooden puzzles) hold sentimental value for both the creator and recipient. Attention to Detail: The precision required in scroll saw cutting sets it apart. Unlike other woodworking tools, the scroll saw allows for intricate curves and tight corners. The meticulous attention to detail elevates the value of the finished work. Market Value: The market for scroll saw creations varies. Some buyers appreciate the craftsmanship and are willing to pay for unique, handcrafted pieces. Factors like wood quality, complexity, and finishing contribute to the market value. In summary, scroll saw cutting isn’t just about creating objects; it’s about the journey—the hours spent refining your skills, the joy of bringing patterns to life, and the satisfaction of holding a finely crafted piece in your hands. Whether you create for personal enjoyment or to share with others, the value lies in the process and the end result

First things first. I have been scrolling for over 40 years and never never never once did I ever keep tract of amount of holes or time cut. I ask you for those that do, WHY??? What difference does it actually make in the long run. When the project is done it is done. If you charge by the hour you are not doing yourself justice because you will never get enough money per hour. I laugh at people who have all these special formulas for trying to put a price on things. I see this alot on the pen turning sites now too. Do it long enough you know what a project should sell for because they fall into categories. Portraits, desk clocks, puzzles, intarsia and so forth. If it is an unusual size then the price can vary. Just because a piece has 10 more holes it should cost more?? Why?? Next when I was on the circuit I scrolled longer at a saw because I knew I needed stock. If I was just making something for the sake of making, I scroll till I got tired. I do not have set times. Some days you feel better than others. Now that I am retired and do not scroll much any more I go till I want. I do the same now with my pen turning. No time schedules here. As I got older I can not sit as long but that comes with age. Eyes tire faster too. Could not put any time numbers on any of that. I may put a mental stopping point on but it means nothing in the whole picture. When I was on the circuit I did the assembly line thing though. Sand and prep wood. Lay patterns on wood. Drill and cut. Lay it aside and go to next one. One day I would strip patterns and take outside for routing if need be or just sanding. next day do a bunch of dipping in stain. Next day or two days later after finish has dried I wax pieces and put aside. That to me was a more productive way of getting things done. We all come up with a method that works for us.

heat is your friend to take anything with adhesive off. Just like taking a pattern off a project. use heat gun. It works well.

Did the legs of the saw change any. Maybe try spreading if they can. Or maybe the rubber grommets need to be moved .Is the bench top flat?

If you are pulling blades from the same batch, try switching to either different brand blades or a different group of blades.

Over the years I had blades that did wonky stuff too. But you notice right away and just change blades. To have a saw just all of a sudden do something weird just hard to find. You should get a warning of a sound or an occasional bad cut. I gave you all I have too.

Is it the same volt rating? That is important.

If that being the case can you push on the arms and do they move. Maybe a bearing has worn out but again as the saws moves it should show signs of vibration. I know on the Dewalts the table use to rock. You would see this when you put your weight on one side of the table to the other when shifting your cuts. Maybe look at that. We are all just spitballing here.

I agree it never was one size fits all. I use to make tissue boxes in the 90's and they were all different sizes. How many different candle jars out there.

I do not have that saw and no little about it. But you need to look at the action itself. Manually push the arm up and down with the square next to the blade and if the blade moves straight up and down then it is not the saw and it is your pushing technique. At times we get to pushing too hard and you are putting pressure where there should not be. As you are cutting let off from pushing and if your piece walks back to a certain position it tells you that you were doing too much side pressure. It happens to all of us. May have to change the speed of the saw one way or other. Certain woods just cut slower than others. Other than that I can not help.

If you are asking me, that is fine what you did.

It is because it is the easiest. To use an inline amp meter means alot more work. The Fluke meters are the gold standard along with Simpson meters. These inexpensive meters are quick and easy for homeowners to use. Measuring tools such as scrollsaws that are below an amp really are non concern factors in a scheme of wiring. It is like trying to measure current draw from an LED light. You would actually get a more accurate reading with clamping around the hot wire at the source as opposed to adding the extra device. Just an opinion.

Rolf, an aside question, was that meter able to read below an amp?? I am surprised. Those inexpensive meters are really not that accurate.

Again just my opinion. if you have room for a bench top unit you have room for a full size one. The room is straight up and down, not width wise. Table top bandsaws have a tendency to be flimsy and vibrate alot when cutting. You need to lock them down if doing any heavy cutting. 1/2HP motors is about all you get and that is pushing it. 3/8" blade is max you can use. Yes they are good for small cuttings but I do not get it on a bandsaw. Again and I stress this, this is just one man's opinion. Do as you wish because I am sure as the day is young that people will come on here and tell you all the good things they do with their bench top bandsaws. And maybe so but not for me. Good luck. One other thing, I went to look that saw up and they do not make it any more so now you have to worry about availability of parts. If you want one in that same class, the Wen suppose to be the tops out there for $160. Probably came off the same line. Rikon is another.