JTTHECLOCKMAN

In my area I would ask $400 and probably take $350 no lower. Not for a Hegner with stand. .

I am sitting here and laughing my tail off. Why you ask. I am in the process of cleaning my shop out and the clutter has taken over my game room and things got out of hand. One of the things I did yesterday was clean my exact same saw off and put is aside. I have the same blade pouch sitting on the saw with the footpedal. I too would love to sell it. We could put them side by side and they would be like they came out of the factory. I am keeping my light. I have a blue dot on top of the tension knob in the back which I used to guide me of returning tension to the same position every time I moved blade. I thought about getting the quick release setup but the price is too much and got used to turning the knob. Good luck with the sale. Let me know what you get for it if you would be kind enough. Thanks.

Doesn't your printer allow for size change. Most printers today do. That is how I adjust my patterns.

Thoughts. I am afraid to give my thoughts being this is the second time I have been called out for giving my thoughts on this site. But If you will allow me to bring something up being you mentioned pallet woods. Please be sure you know where that pallet has come from and was not used to transport chemicals or other nasty things. Poplar is a very good wood to make all those things you mentioned. Cuts well and can be stained or painted easily. Just my thoughts.

What would probably be interesting to see is if you have both vac setup and fan setup, take a reading near your face as you are scrolling using your natural form and seat placement. May take another set of hands. Then eliminate one setup at a time and do the test. Being we are talking scrollsaws.

This is fun so I will join in. I do not know anything about this saw but is that a start /stop button under the saw?? If that would be the case that is a heavy duty type used with a motor that size.. I would think the saw had a switch on the saw somewhere. Just to ad a little more, the wire from the motor is going under the table and you can see it hanging down. That would go to that stop /start switch.

You asked if anyone reads your links so my answer. Did you read the entire post or just the top line????????????? Again I applaud you for your data search and hope it will be helpful I too try to collect dust at the source at times. But I use way too many tools to be able to do that. Tools that create more dust than a scrollsaw. The Osha standards you speak of are bare minimums and each person is affected differently. I have dealt with this throughout my construction career. All my point was is that all the measures you take to control dust weather at the source or scrubbing of the air, the best and most proven method is to wear a dust mask. If you can clean your shop with all the equipment and no mask is needed I congratulate you. How many here will be able to do that?? That is just my point Do not take this personal.

Don't use a box fan so don't care. I know it is for your own curiosity which is fine. But the truth of the matter is any little dust is harmful to you. Certain woods are more harmful than others. Certain finishes are harmful. Time spent sucking up the dust is a factor. How often in the shop is a factor. How clean is the floor you walk on is a factor because as I explained in those threads just walking in a shop kicks up the dust level all over again after it has settled. It is the dust you can not see that is harmful. All the shop vacs, air cleaners, dust extractors, box fans all will help and that is proven. Again though the last line of defence is a good dust mask and be vigilant about wearing it. Now you can get into a discussion as to what is a good dust mask and again many factors come into play. Beard, no beard, full face mask or partial for comfort and the list goes on. But at least try and I applaud your efforts to inform us and yourself with some data. I do hope this data will be used. Good luck.

Well we should all know that in the scrolling field there are different types of work and for many years before all of us were even born they used the word fretwork for fancy detailed carvings. But we use it to designate any project that requires drilled holes and insertion of blades. As mentioned Silhouette, intarsia, inlay, marquetry, 3D cutting and probably missing something. Portraits is just a form or projects of fret work. Portraits can be done using marquetry also or even intarsia. The use of fret saws was probably the origin of the word. here is another explanation. https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-fretwork.htm

WOW is the right word for that. Nice job. Well done.

I have looked at that pattern many times and thought about getting it (Clockman) I wanted to make into a pen stand because I make watch part pens and they have all the gears and things within the pen body. I think you have tipped the scales after seeing yours. Nice work on that and thanks for showing.

End grain. It will cut differently that face grain. If you are using a stand alone router it will make it a little more challenging that using a router table because you are concentrating on not tipping the router as you route. If you can tell us how you routed it. The bit can be dull but if it is carbide I doubt it unless you use it alot. If it is steel it is junk. Feed speed is important. Direction of feed is also important. The basic answer to your question without knowing the variables is always always always route in multiple passes and never try to hog off that much wood in one pass. Your final pass cleans up chatter and any burn marks. I can tell those burn marks are from bit not moving fast enough and staying in one place too long. One other thing I notice and it can happen alot with poplar because it is a soft wood and also with any soft woods, the bearing dug into the wood which tells me you are pushing too hard on the router against the wood. When you route soft woods light touch is important or else you end up with those ridges. Also the scalloping which you see on the top is probably from your cut. The bit will follow any little imperfection in your cut so if the cut has high and low spots the bit will follow. Hey you asked.

I would definitely get more facts on it before I bid on a boat anchor.

Well Gordon in the pen turning world and hobby, we as pen turners try anything. We cast anything and everything and make it into a pen. We use CA glue as a finish so just goes to show we try anything. As pen turners we walk around with this thing on our minds " can I make that into a pen" Nine out of ten times the answer is yes. Such a small canvas and yet such a large field of art. Woodworking in general is that way too. Scrolling not so much. Sort of locked into what can be done and the types of projects that can be done. That is why I combine scrolling with my other woodworking skills. I wish many others would do this as well. As an example, the box you made could have had a name scrolled in a plaque or even into the drawer front. Some kind of cute saying or something to combine both arts. Not that it doesn't look good but just a suggestion.

http://scrollsawer.com/2017/11/10/dove-ornaments/ He has offered them up for free so just download them.

Laugh if you want but nail polish is used in pen making for coloring the tube when doing cast on blanks and clear is used to glue watch parts when making watch part blanks.

It does look pristine but does look different. Do not remember the name being on the side like that. That could be a multicut single speed saw. Can not see the plug on the end because it also could be 220volt saw

Very nice work. keep it up and have fun.

I am a woodworker and work in my shop year round. I never collected dust at a scrollsaw with any device but if you are going to then that is the best way to get most of it by connecting a vac system directly to it. I am not advocating to do anything either my way or anyone elses way. you do what you feel is the right thing for you because people allergys are all different and people react to dust differently. The reason I do not bother with collecting dust at the saw is I have so many other tools running in the shop that are bigger dust makers than a scrollsaw. yes I have a dust collector system set up to collect dust at the source of these tools but a dust collector will pick up the larger particles easier than the small ones so that is not a full proof method. Thus the air cleaner hanging from the ceiling and that too will scrub the air but it takes time to circulate air and with the continuing addition of more dust as you work it will never keep up. But it does work. With my scrollsaws I have the articulating hose blow the dust away from me. the dust on top of the saw is the one you are exposed to not under the saw. After every sitting I vac up the area and if doing alot of cutting I will vac between sessions to give myself a break. I always wear a dust mask in my shop even if it is a nuisance dust mask it still will capture some dust. Have to remember if you do not clean entire shop every day after every use that dust gets on the floor. Walk into the shop and you now kicked it back into the air and the cycle begins all over again. So you are kidding yourself if you think you are collecting all sources of dust being made in a shop. Yes as I said the best attack is to have a vac at the source but that needs to be a vac with a heppa filter because small shop vacs will leak the dust back out the other end. Those filters inside are not that good. The vacs such as the fein and festool are designed to be switched on and off. Not as much as a scroll will because of the fret work we do but they are a better choice if you did the vac thing. Shop vacs like Ridgid and craftsman will not take that kind of abuse and fail. The motor on them is not designed for that kind of on off operation. Plus they do not filter the dust well either. The dust deputy and other cyclones are too not made for the kind of dust collecting you all are talking about. They will work to an extent and you will see better results with clean up but again you are fooling yourself if you think you are getting all dust. Those of you that use a fan are kidding yourself also. yes you are collecting dust in the filter but what about all the dust going around the fan and now you are blowing it into the shop all around in the air. Again you are having an effect on gathering some of the dust but not all. Any layer of dust and debris collecting you can add will make a difference but the bottom line is protect yourself at the source you breathe in. That is the final line of defense. Clean your self off when done working so you do not drag throughout the house. I like to take an air hose and blow the dust off me outside. This is one big reason I do 95.5% of my sanding out doors. Scrolling is one thing but sanding is a whole other anaimal that is 100 times worse. Good luck and safe woodworking.

Wax will help. I use Johnson paste wax. You can always put a piece of plexiglass on it as i did with my 2 RBI saws. It made the top a little larger too. On my Hegner I used a piece of 1/8" BB

Just to add a point to what Bill said, you want BLO and not straight linseed oil. Or if you want a more water proof mix use tung oil. Natural Danish oil has dryers added to help it dry faster. But it is a forgiving finish and looks great. For items that are not handled alot it has enough top coat protective features to handle that.

Depends on what you consider a top coat. Danish oil has poly in it unlike BLO. I use it all the time as a top coat and a sealer. All my oak clocks are dipped in Danish oil and no top coat added. Now if you are looking for a shiny finish then you need to top with lacquer or poly. If you do top coat make sure that Danish oil is cured not just dry or failure of top coat will happen. Again just my thoughts. I do use Danish oil alot.

You are talking 3 different things here and all do a specific job and all can be very helpful. First is the Wen air filtration system. It is design to collect the very tiny particles of dust that float in the air any time they are disturbed. You can have dust on the floor and not see it and yet it floats in the air. This will capture it along a long period of time because it circulates the shop air across 2 sets of filters. These are designed to scrub the air and not pick up dust or debris. A cyclone dust collector is a system to collect debris and dust at the source of the tool. It takes the larger piece and throws in a barrel as the finner dust goes in a filtered bag. They can be very efficient but can be overkill for scrollsaw work. They are designed for larger tools such as lathes, table saw, bandsaw and such. There are homemade versions and also professional units that are much more efficient and quieter. These homemade units that attach to a shop vac are basically a larger shop vac and still noisy. Then there is the shop vac that can be connected to the saw with varies degrees of pipe works. I will leave that to others because I do not use them and in fact use nothing at my scrollsaw and never did. I do have an air cleaner that runs the very minute I walk in the shop and if I have a heavy dust making day I leave run for about an hour after I leave. Without getting technical and electrical I can tell you that shop vacs use a universal motor that uses brushes and is very loud. Now some vacs like the Festool and the Fein have found ways to insulate their product with very good sound proofing and cut way down on he noise levels and thus the higher price for them. A dust collector uses an induction more efficient and quieter motor but is designed for heavy duty uses. A box fan only collects dust in the air. It does not collect dust that is produced while cutting so to answer your question you need 2 things. Something to collect airborne dust and something to collect dust at the source. I know that is not a direct answer because there isn't one. For me the airborne dust is the more harmful. The dust made at the saw just falls on the floor and I vac it up when done. I have a large dust collector but it is for my larger tools. I could never run a shop vac while scrolling. That noise would drive me nuts. Buying these expensive shop vacs to use for scrolling to me is a waste of money too. They get turned on and off so many times and that is hard on those motors. Good luck.

1/2" whatever you make is going to have some weight to it. Purpleheart burns very easily when cut. Take a look through Steve Good's patterns. I am sure you can find something there. I am partial to clocks so that is my suggestion. Do you have other woods also and maybe mix things up. Zebrawood looks good with maple and or walnut or even red oak. That is a combination I use alot. Purpleheart to me is an accent wood. It darkens over time and will not hold its purple color. I would use either of those woods at that thickness as a base. I dip zebra wood in Danish oil and then polish it up to a high shine with a buffing system.

Nice work. You are a very good scroller. Thanks for showing. Post photos any time. be proud of what at you are doing.