JTTHECLOCKMAN

That is where I bought mine from also. But I too have the one from Mike's Workshop and that works great in my full size drill press. That one does not have a zero clearance chuck on it. My 12" table top does though.

They run around $32 to $35 a gallon now adays. When I bought mine they were very cheap because Watco was dicontinuing the line and Home Depot was selling out. I bought all I could in my area of stores and have been working off that since and it has to be early 2000. I paid like $5 a gallon. The public screamed to have it back on the market so they started up production again but they did not copy exact formula. I think they needed to meet EPA standards. Just a couple years ago Lowes was selling out the quart cans of Watco so I again went around buying out the old stock. The stuff does go a long way and as I said keep in air tight container will last a long time. I have proof.

Got it. In all my 35 years of doing scroll work and all size projects I never ran into that problem but again that is just me. I understand the use and understand why they do it and more power to them and hope you all the best of success for it use. Here is wishing you many more drilled holes with your Dremel Plunge Router / Drilling jig. I do have something similar to this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wolfcraft-Portable-Multi-Angle-Drill-Guide-with-Drill-Chuck-4525404/303283380?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100349264-_-303283380-_-N

No confusion here. Proper hole drilling tool. One hand to operate. No fear of drill moving and breaking small tiny bits. Maybe it is just me. http://woodgears.ca/reader/walters/delta_11-990.jpg

Ray, I believe we had this conversation before but my method has been the same for over 35 years since I started doing this kind of work. I have always used Watco Danish oil and love the stuff. I have 10 year old Danish oil that is still good so in my opinion it never goes bad. If stored in an air tight container. For somethings this large I use those plastic storage containers that you see in all home centers. 32qts. I use about 3 gals in the container. I dip the piece in as i stand on edge and then use one of those home depot 99 cent brushes to slash oil in places that I can not get because of the size. I soak it very well for about 10 minutes on a piece like the shelf or magazine rack. I then take it out and place it on the lid to drain excess off. After that I wipe down with a soft cloth as an initial wipe down. Now I set it aside on some plywood I set up in the shade and let drain and dry some. After some time I go back and wipe down well. By this time all oil has drained out of all the crevices and set it aside to dry for good. No need to wipe any more or touch for a couple days. After all pieces are dipped and set aside, I pour the remaining oil back in the gallon cans using a funnel and store for the next time. I do this over and over and if I use most of the oil up I open another gallon can and start over. Now if doing small clocks and only one or two I use a much smaller plastic container but the procedure is the same except then the piece fits easily in the container so no need to brush on. Now when I made the longer shelfs I used longer storage containers. The ones you store blankets and things in. I always leave the oily rags outdoors hung over some concrete blocks in the back yard. Wipe the containers out and do the same with those towels. As I said I have been doing this for over 35 years and have it down to a system that works well for me. I have made so many items of all size and mainly used Watco Danish oil as the finish. Now I have made many other items too where I top coated with lacquers. Then I use BLO only to pop grain and give the color but pretty much follow same steps. After dry I then lacquer. Now if doing large items or alot of items I break out the compressor and HVLP gun and shoot water based lacquer. But if items are small then rattle can Deft. I always finish outdoors. If I have to I can finish in the shop but try not too because of the smells. Any questions I am happy to answer. One thing I like to point out in case someone brings this up, is that shelve pictures are this past fall and i took those for my brother because he had someone who wanted a victorian shelf. Those shelves have to be over 20 years old because I had a few left from my shows. I stopped carrying them to the shows because they were taking up too much room on my space and they did not sell well any more. Notice there is no drying out in the fret work and the soft glow is still present in the finish. So yes Danish oil does hold up and does not need reapplying. Just saying.

I know what it is Kevin I have it. As I said you are using this for something it was not designed to do. Different plunge routers have different mechanisms to operate the plunge system You do not need to push with 2 hands to drill. Push in center. As I said the only time I use this cheap thing is for certain router jobs. It will break with all that movement up and down. A good drill press would have been the better way to go. good luck with it and all that use it to drill holes.

Again I know I do not grasp things well but you are an intelligent man why not just take the thing out all together. As I said you put that nut on there it will not lock at a certain height then. Simple fix and please do not tell me then you will lose it. . I know you are going to say you need the handle to push down. Why not just push down on the center object the drill motor. Then have at it. You do know you are all using that attachment for something it was not designed for. It was designed for routing.

OK now what I do not get, and unless mine is different than yours, putting that nut there does not allow the bolt to go down far enough to lock that travel. Even a washer on mine would interfere. That bolt pushes against a small stop that pushes against the shaft to keep it from sliding. Are you inserting something else to meet that stop??? Something is not adding up. Never had a problem with the knob loosening and as I said I router with mine and not drilling. A router would cause more vibration than a drill.

Very nicely done. I bet you could get orders for that. Question: Did you use spiral blades to cut this?? Just curious.

Thank you. Rick did alot of Victorian style patterns and back in the day oak was the wood of choice in homes for this style and that is what got me started with working with oak. I use to do this is natural and some people wanted it a bit darker so I would stain. I always used Watco Danish oil and that is what is on this. I made magazine racks which the light one was his pattern and the deer one is mine. But to show the 2 different colors I offered back then.

I believe you but I do not remember it. Probably never paid attention because I already had most if not all his patterns. If I chose to show all the projects I made from his patterns we would run out of web space I wish I had taken photos of all too but back then I did not even own a computer. I am going to at some time try to transfer my paper photos to a flashdrive so that I can save and share. Here is a couple shelves I made many of these over the years and this project alone he had so many different designs. Then I use to make them double shelves so that they were longer or even triple shelves some people wanted. Made from different woods too. Oh the memories.

I use belt straps and have several versions depending how large the frame is. I also agree the lengths must be exact for good tight joints. Stop blocks work well when cutting. I use my tablesaw. It is the most accurate saw in a workshop by far and that should be anyones workshop. Many jigs can be made to fit it and make things so much easier. So for me the tablesaw (well tuned) is the best tool in a workshop hands down. Many versions of these out there and they basically all work the same way. https://www.ebay.com/p/Rapid-Corner-Clamp-Band-Strap-4-Jaws-For-Picture-Frame-Holder-Woodworking-Drawer/3028633447?iid=173771235531

I too have that Lion trimmer that Rolf shows, and it is a great tool to tweak miters. The biggest problem with cutting accurate miters is accuracy itself. There are many homemade jigs out there to do this on a tablesaw, bandsaw or even miter saws. The blade needs to travel in a perfect straight line when cutting and many saws have runout which causes the blade to wander and that causes open miters. You get what you pay for.

No one sells all their patterns. He use to have a pattern club and those patterns never were included. The link above is for the new owners of their business. Anyone else selling their patterns is doing so illegally. Now maybe that pattern was in one of their books so you can look for those. Or write to them or call them and they maybe able to help locate it. Man I probably made 50% of their patterns over the years. They are what started it all for me. I remember when they first started up and they had a 4 page black and white catalog they sent out and it kept growing every year. I made my money basically cutting their patterns and selling the projects. All started with those fold up baskets. Made so many of them over the years. Still have a few left from back in the day. Refuse to sell them. Met them a few times at some scrollsaw picnics over the years. Wow brings back memories. Still make alot of their patterns.

https://express.google.com/product/13447418423979582294_18306055655423207804_7472660?mall=WashingtonDC&directCheckout=1&utm_source=bing_shopping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=1006091 | GSX | DR | ESS01 | NA | US | en | Hybrid | Bing SEM | PLA | ~ National (acq)&utm_term=4576854590719955&utm_content=National&gclid=CPrnwePu7OECFQuxswoduPkAuQ&gclsrc=ds Never used one https://www.walmart.com/ip/BLACK-DECKER-9-Amp-7-1-4-Inch-Compound-Miter-Saw-M1850Bd/49689288?sourceid=csebr03dbcf0987cf894358a1d77e2449a57a5f&wmlspartner=bizratecom&affcmpid=3531997210&tmode=0000&veh=cse&szredirectid=15562511531884998675510090302008005

If you have an arts store nearby they probably have them. They use them on drafting tables and that is where you will find the better ones. Or use that word for a search.

That is where this idea should wind up. On a target and shot

Mine too is mounted on my Hawks and there is no vibration at all.

He just said that. He doesn't get it.

Better man than I There are so many versions of circle cutting jigs out there and can be found on google. I have an older version I bought many years ago and believe it was Woodcraft and it used a pin as the pivot point for a bandsaw but could be adapted for use with router, jigsaw, scrollsaw. I made a larger one from plywood because I was making ship wheel clocks and cutting the circles on a bandsaw. I sold the pattern to Steebar back in the day. Need to look for the pattern.or photo. https://steebar.com/search.php?search_query=ships+wheel+clock Boy I look back through some of those plans, I can not believe they still carry many of them. Brings back alot of memories. I remember making those Pyramid clocks and trying to figure out the correct compound angles I have not made many of those projects in years. trip down memory lane. https://steebar.com/pyramid-clock-plan/ This desk set still had my old business card on it. https://steebar.com/clock-plans/?sort=featured&page=1

Thank you for the link. A worthwhile read for sure. This project has to be ranked as one of the top 10 if not the best ever shown here. I am still in awe and jealous at the same time I sure wish Dave would consider doing a tutorial here for the site on his methods. Even if he showed us all we would not be able to complete work like that he has a talent and has been doing this for awhile. Just knowing the right angles to cut at and cut with precision is outstanding. I had made this box for the IAP contest this year and have shown it and my inlay work is basic because I just recessed the oval. I would have loved to do the entire thing using his method. I have another box I am working on that would be nice to use this method also.

I would like to read it. What is the link??

Ray I wish you luck in this concept. But I would think it would have been invented by now if possible. Those center punches use a spring loaded action to make a dent not drill a hole. You got me on this one and I can be of no more help. What ever you make do post some photos.

You can make your own compartments within the plastic container. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=53292&msclkid=197dc2b430c71b12ada09e09e3d4d49d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SHB | All Products&utm_term=4580221844135631&utm_content=All http://www.amazon.com/long-plastic-box/s?k=long+plastic+box

Still do not know what mine is. Not written on it anywhere. I do use reading glasses all the time when in the shop so I use them in conjunction with the magnifier and sit very comfortable scrolling away. Being retired and under no deadlines I scroll when I want. If I get tired I am done for the day. Still in pen mode so no scrolling till about June and will start the saws up again. Have to love retired life. Just was at the eye doctor last week. Was having some pain in right eye. He put me through all the tests and boy there is surely alot of them had more eye drops put in my eye than I ever used. Have 25/20 vision. No cataracts and no glaucoma. Do need reading glasses but says I can use drugstore version for now. Attributes pain to allergies. I am trying to zero in on what it could be Have not been in the shop for 3 weeks now so know it is not anything from there. Maybe food or weather related. Some days nothing and some days bad.