JTTHECLOCKMAN

Same here Bill. Have 4 saws so have 4 of them somewhere taking up valuable real estate.

You all realize you paid for that piece when you bought your saw

Now Kevin you used terms in here that are not allowed any more in today's society . You can be called out by the politically correct police. We must not harm in any way anyone's feelings. People are very sensitive these days. A whole new world. But you are probably right. Many examples of this all around us. I'm guessing but, I bet they are required to have it on there when sold new.. Probably some idiot scratched their finger or the wood started bouncing and pinched their finger.. and thus.. a safety device was invented and required to be on any new machine.. Now.. to me it's more of a safety hazard on there than off.. but that's just me... gotta remember.. they have some real dumb people in this world.. since they now have to mark coffee cups with Caution Hot now days.. warning labels and caution signs all over the place these days.. Surprised they don't have a warning to not change the tire on a car while it's in motion, LOL

Maybe we could send them to a specific place and they can reuse them for new saws. They all are from reading here brand new. They keep recycling them they could skip making that piece.

I know this topic is wavering off course but if anyone watches This Old House, there is a push on the show to incorporate apprentices in the show. They make it a point to show and mention there is a shortage of skilled labor in the market these days. Yes computer skills are great but still need those hands on people that can build and fix things. Again the fast pace world we have become people do not want to take time to learn simple skills. Just pick a phone up and they call someone.

How many here use the hold down foot supplied with the saw when new?? How many have taken it off all together??? How many still have it on but do not use it and use it to hold up an air hose or something else???

I would put that idea in the same category as the hold down foot that comes with each scrollsaw. There should be a site where you could send those things to recycle them. They are the first thing that comes off. There is a blade tension device for bandsaw blades on the market but again experience puts them to bed too.

Now that you cleared that up. I have the rigid sander and only have it because another tool I got a great deal on. I never used the spindle end of it but have used the belt a couple times. My spindle sander is a true spindle sander that I have used many times and works well. It has a small footprint and I have on a cabinet I built for it .http://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=4298D00024DD56DE251B588442F7EA74E21309BF&thid=OIP.UCckkG59NYfW9DxYVdn7QwAAAA&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F81PE1T69ZRL._SX300_.gif&exph=281&expw=300&q=clayton+oscillating+spindle+sander&selectedindex=0&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,3,6

Again where is everyone getting the information he is asking about a spindle sander?? I am missing it. Most palm sanders fit into two basic categories: the oscillating sander and the random orbit sander. Oscillating sanders move the sanding pad in tiny little circles, which is more effective than the back-and-forth motion of older models. A random orbit sander oscillates and spins the pad, resulting in faster work that leaves fewer fine, circular scratch marks than an oscillating unit.

Rolf everyone has their preferences when it comes to what materials they like to work with for whatever reasons they choose. But what I am pointing out is there are ways around finishing woods if that is one of the reasons. Now you mentioned humidity change cause a disaster. what to say the same thing would not happen with another wood species?? Can not force someone to like the looks of wood grain and if people choose to not wear safety equipment when working in the shop, can't fix stupid as they say. But you are correct everyone's tastes are different. I was just jabbing Kevin in a friendly manner. I mean nothing by it. His work is outstanding.

Not easy with that type script for sure. Good job and good choice in woods.

There are clones so depending on the part I am sure you can find a replacement.

Are you talking palm sander or something else?

Well Kevin why did you make the cross in oak in the first place?? You mentioned all good reasons to not even show oak on your sites. Do not even offer it. You can get in a position like you are now with cutting oak unless you are making all those crosses out of cherry. You do know you can seal any wood with shellac and then top coat with a poly or lacquer and be done in one day with finish and no smell. Just being contradictory because I am an oak fan. I do like cherry as well and would finish the same way.

It is red oak. White oak is more expensive so Lowes will not carry it. You can tell if it has a reddish hint to it. White oak looks alot like Ash wood. White oak is tougher to cut. http://www.differencebetween.net/science/nature/difference-between-red-oak-and-white-oak/

I have been using these for most my career in woodworking and they are great. Applys just the right amount of pressure and easy to use. Different brand but same principle. The original maker of these was knocked off so many times. He sued a couple makers but I guess it got out of hand and not worth it any more. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TXSAHU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B003TXSAHU&pd_rd_w=qwgCZ&pf_rd_p=733540df-430d-45cd-9525-21bc15b0e6cc&pd_rd_wg=baCOQ&pf_rd_r=6KZJ

It is good to know there is this dislike for oak. I will have to stop showing my projects here because many people hate looking at oak and being that is about all I use and cut no sense showing any more projects done in oak. Or maybe what I will do is include a disclaimer when I show something. I can include this warning " graphic photos!!! oak haters do not look" I love working and looking at all woods. I did learn something from this thread though.

Love the smell of oak. Been using it for so long. I pick my own boards from a lumber yard. I had the opportunity to have 2 very good lumber yards for my wood choices. Unfortunately one closed because of fire but the other still is a good source. So I can choose wood that is clear and I know what to look for when it comes to color and cuttability. Now that project is about 1-1/2 hour to cut for me and everyone is different and cutting speeds are determined by the cutter. pricing is always subjective and determined by many factors. You price things by how it is being sold, where it is being sold and some times to whom you are selling to. Since I have been here the only people I have seen here that do this basically for a living is Kevin. Iggy does alot of selling of items but has another job and have not seen others here that do scrolling for a living. So Kevin is coming at this from a whole different perspective than most of us here. So that too will have a play in the pricing as well and also his love for scrolling. I do not love scrolling that way any more. I could make more money these days if I were into selling homemade pens that I do. But even that is not what I would want to do for a living. My point here is determining prices is not easy and many factors play into it. I would not base my pricing on anyone elses pricing. pricing gets brought up many times on many sites and it just is not a fair question to ask. Kevin why not make them out of cherry??? Did they specifically ask for oak?? Should have shown them both examples.

Aspen is a white wood. Holly is another choice. Bleach will not turn a wood white unless it is white to start with. Trans tint dyes are the purest dyes possible for wood that I know of. Costly though.

Who's pattern is that?? I would be bored after 2 of them. It is not a difficult pattern. Not sure I would be playing around with a new saw for something like that. Use that time on something where there is no timetable. Now add some wedding napkin holders and you have a real winner and you will not be able to keep in stock.

Projects Half Done. Many is not even close. I also turn pens and you should see those laying around.

Kevin he said 1/4" not 5/8" and I agree you will get much less time cutting thicker wood but 1/4" and only a half hour then throw the blades away and buy some real blades. Said nothing about stacking. The more plywood you stack the more layers and glue you are cutting through and it has nothing to do with style. Never timed the blade usage and I have been doing this for over 35 years. When a blade dulls you know it. With those fancy timers you will be able to calculate many aspects of scrolling and add blade usage to that list and use many different blades to cut a single project and keep a chart. This could be all valuable info for the newbies as they try to figure out what blades are best. My statement about longer times cutting BB is true and I stand by it and as I said your mileage may vary. I will say I never got good mileage from any Olson blade. I never tried pegus blade and only use FD blades. When you find something that works why change. As My Dad always said if it is not broke why fix it. I will say at one time before my use of FD blades and getting to know Mike I used a blade called Tiger blades that were a German blade sold by Steebar. When I worked for them I use to always buy their blades and they too were a good quality blade.

I agree with Bill. I too have sawn and planed down oak boards to 1/8" and up to 3/8" without warping. I have a large clock project that I started some 10 years ago and never did get back to it and many of the pieces are 3/16" thick and are cut out and are still not warped. I know this because I moved this project the other day to get at some other wood underneath it. I really need to finish that project. Not sure where the plans are any more. I may have to wing it. I have quite a few projects never finished. Just lost interest in them mid way. I get bored quickly. Those people that do the same things over and over are a different breed in my mind.

Take all you have Kevin. I am not telling anyone which blade to use and I agree try different blades and all the blades I have ever used those are my go to blades and have scrolled many a project using them. Have to say I do not scroll much BB so my times are way off but know for sure without doubt it would be longer than 30 minutes. Your mileage may vary.

Not sure what type finish you are going after Berry on oak but man all I do is sand to 220 grit and use Watco Danish oil and never fill in grains. That is for furniture grade projects not scrolling projects in my eyes. I get a nice smooth low luster look and feel and have many people comment on the finish of my projects. Poplar is a good painting wood. Everyone has their favorites and their ways of finishing. No right or wrong ways. To me oak is my favorite wood to work with. Easy to scroll and work with.