JTTHECLOCKMAN

Lets not downplay oak folks. I have been using oak for over 35 years and most my projects are from oak. So lets get real here. Alot depends on what you are making. How thin are you using and is it a stand alone or is it backed up Some of the best looking oak is flat sawn and not quartersawn at all. That is boring. Now my projects are 3/8 to 3/4 " thick so that helps Many are fret sawn so that takes out the warping too. You relive the stress when it is used for fret sawing. Vin never did say what he is using 1/4" hardwood for and how large the project is either so there maybe answers to his misuse of it if we knew. I have shown many examples of my projects here and to date not one has ever warped.

I too have tried oak plywood on a certain project and just was so disappointed and I even tried it again and used a different stain. At first I thought I liked it but the more I looked at it I came to not like it. So I scrapped the projects and to this day it sits unfinished. What hurt was the fact it was alot of cutting in 4 pieces because I stacked 2 each time. I even had splintering on some small cuts. There was some one here that made this same project and theirs looked nice. It was a religious plaque of Jesus The Light of The World. My opinion is if using plywood the only good looking stuff is good quality Baltic Birch or Finnish Birch. As far as suggestions go if the board is warping use a backer of a less warping wood. Mahogany does not warp much at all. Any wood with wild grain or heavy grain will warp. Straight grain wood will have a tendency to not warp as much.

Looks like he needs wheels on that chair. He can roll from one saw to the next and not have to change blades till they all get dull and then start over. Save alot of time. Keep them customers happy.

Did not realize the photo was going to be so big.

This is the stool I have and I placed a board on the lower rungs that I sit the foot switch on. Easy to adjust to any height and have a back rest when I need to take a break. Takes up no more room than any other chair. Ray good luck with whatever saw you finally end up with. There is a saw out there for you. . https://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/10132816/prod_1662822412?hei=546&wid=546&op_sharpen=1

Same here https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/8VYAAOSwWOdbaf8~/s-l1600.jpg

RBI land. Good luck with the saw. Continue to gives us updates as you get the thing dialed in.

My brother was into that stuff too. Hitting all the flee markets on Saturday and then selling at his garage sale during the week. He has slowed down on that stuff but still in his DNA. Well then have at it Ray. Good luck with the saws you buy. There are plenty out there.

With me you know what you are getting A+++++ saws. When you buy like you are doing it is a crapshoot like you are selling off these saws now. Buy once and never buy again stop playing around and buy a good saw already. The hobby is cutting on them not buying and selling them.

I wish you were close Ray I would sell you a Hegner and a Dewalt for $1000

I use FD silver reverse #5 blades and can cut for hours using them. I sometimes change for the sake of changing. These are my all time favorite blade and boy do I have many different blades. 1/4" BB should not dull the blade that fast. That is not thick. But do agree that any plywood will dull a blade quicker than some hardwoods because of the glue and the orientation of the plys. Grain runs different on each layer.

Well if you are going to sell it Ray do nothing to it. Let new owner have it in good condition. You have tried all these saws. What are you looking for?? There is no way anyone can tell if a saw is to their liking with a few projects. Seems everyone like Pegas buy one of those. There is a guy on a penturning site who has 7 lathes all different. he just likes buying them. Only can use one at a time. Any saw will bounce on a plywood floor. Place some cinder blocks under it hanging from the frame.. There is a saw out there that you will like Ray and hopefully someday you find it.

First off the Hegner is designed with that stand in mind so taking off the stand you risk adding vibration. They use a 3 legged stand to take care of unevenness Kevin so no problems there. That can sit on an angle if you want because again the stand is part of the saw and is all welded together. The Hawk is designed to sit on that stand and for the life of me can not figure out why Ray can not find a adjustable chair to sit in it Cut the legs down evenly if you want to lower it. But after you do again loosen the legs to let settle in the place you put it. These type saws are again designed with the stand in mind. The same goes for the Dewalt and it too has a 3 legged stand to accommodate for eneveness Very rarely do you see high end saws on a home built platform with 1000000 lbs of sand under them. Not designed for this. The $150 saw Ryobis and others need to be bolted to a heavy table or else they will walk right off the table. I have first hand knowledge of both Hegner and RBI when I bought mine this is some of the things I was told. You do need to splay the legs on the RBI . The people who owned RBI before this were so much better people to talk to and get straight answers from because they cared about their customers.

Boy I heard all these stories about lasers many times. I also heard the I can make that many times too and have offered to send them the patterns if they want to try. But no responses after that. I wish I had a nickle for every time a person touched the fruit baskets I make and tell me how different and nice they are but walk on. That was always a running gag in my booth. I even got the vendor next to me keeping score at one time too. Then I get the people telling the person next to them they collapse and I would have to explain they do not and are cut from individual pieces. You become immune to these things after awhile. People have no idea at what they are looking at most of the time. I do not explain anything unless asked these days. Waste your breathe. There are people and usually guys who will strike up a conversation about woodworking. People look at prices and at times I hear the too high quote especially when looking at my pens. I have to remind them all is hand made. Today with lasers and 3D printers it is testing the boundries of hand made items for sure.

I tried telling you Kevin. Maybe it does take some time coming off saws with a different arm function but I learned on a Hegner first and then right to the RBIs and when I got the Dewalt I do not like it. Someday I will sell that saw and being a type#1 should get good money for it. Has a stand I never put together. Not even sure all the pieces are there which is why I got the thing for cheap from Home Depot. It was one of those deals they made me buy it. I have used it on occasion but not a fan. love my RBI saws and will not part with them. They have cut many projects and made me some fine $$$ over the years.

Not all acrylic is the same and plexiglass is just a version and generic name for it. I have no problem cutting acrylics on my tablesaw and use various blades. But they do make a non ferrous and plastic blade. As far as on the scrollsaw I too sandwich between some BB and cut using a standard #5 reverse tooth FD blade as I always use for just about everything. I have also cut without plywood and just use blue painters tape on front and back. An example is the acrylic mirrors cut for these.

I like that

I have seen FedX in action because we built a plant for them and yes there is automation to a point and packages do fly and have seen them fly off the conveyors. Loading on trucks is manual and again yes conveyor are sometimes used but not always and the throwing method is employed. Some of those people should try out for some baseball teams. Keven that spring steel clip is something I did years ago on mine because those plastic ones stretch out. Thanks for the photos. There are some different things there and probably because of the system to make this a top and bottom feeder and more adjustable. Good luck with it.

Kevin at least it is in your hands and how well it cuts is to be determined. But have a couple questions. First off was there any stickers on the box saying to not stand on edge or this side up or any warning of any kind?? Next if you can take a photo of the blade clamps both top and bottom. Something looks different than the older ones like I have. Also I thought they hollowed out the arm. Is it hollowed under the arm?? The model before had an I beam shape to help with the weight factor. from your photo of it on the floor it does not look hollowed out. Does the arm raise as much as the older models?? Does it have the same bearing system in the back. From the photos it doesn't look like it. Just from photos it looks different in a few ways. look forward to your review and how the movement of the blade for aggressiveness helps you. Because I think that was a complaint of yours as well as Iggys when he had one. I have to say I have never seen one of these models up close or had a chance to scroll on one. Have to live the experience through people like you.

Looking forward to reading all these new saw reviews and yours will be interesting for what you do and the abuse you put them through. Happy sawing.

Kevin I wish you good luck with this saw and we all will expect to see a good review from someone who has scrolled for a long time and has used an older RBI when they were a different company run by different people. To me they should be reaching out to you and others like you to get feedback and if they are trying to build this into something to carry on a well known brand name then do so by rewarding such feedback. In such a crowded market and with new saws hitting the market all the time they are competing for those $$. But as I said just this journey down this path to get a scrollsaw is not encouraging and to keep piling on with ever step of the way is sending bad messages throughout the scrolling world. They need to realize this. Maybe some time down the road you can send them a email and put in there the thoughts of this forum and your own and explain your unhappiness. yes you should have been compensated as well as all the others that waited for the saw. You do not know yet what problems lie ahead if they rushed to ship these saws out with flaws. For the price they are charging for these saws there should be no problems from order to delivery. These are not some 250 dollar saw. Oh well again good luck. I am glad I am not in the market for any saws anytime soon.

So the guy in the video was wrong by saying the large head screw is the tightening screw. The tightening screws should be on the same side to the right. I do not know which screw is the tightening screw. To me it would make more sense that the large head screw is but if the allen key is not the size for that then it is the other one. As mentioned you need to close the gap between the screws some how and examples of what to do were mentioned good luck I am out of this conversation.

Never did any tuning on my saw since I had it. Do not see what there is to tune. That top looks different. Is that aluminum?? Looks like it is painted or one of those synthetic materials. It looks newer than mine because of the articulating hose. Back when I bought mine they did not have that to offer. You were able to buy the kit to adapt it later. The key is get it to lay naturally wherever you set it up. That includes loosening the leg bolts to let it settle and then tighten. Learn the blade tightening lever in the back. There are videos on their site as well as utube. I have said this more than once. Rarely do I ever touch that unless I switch to jewelers blades. Clean the clamps off of oils and maybe need to sand screws down. Enjoy. You will like the saw. Good luck.

Not in the sense that they color the wood. Stains are absorbed into the wood because they are thinner as with finishes they lay on top of the wood because they are thicker.

Well I will take a shot at it. Many times the terms are used interchangeably but are not the same. First a stain is a product that penetrates wood surfaces and either you add color or highlight the grain. Natural stains are resins and oils mixed that add a hue or warmth of color but also bring out the grain of woods and let the wood show through in its natural state. A clear stain is a clear product that penetrates the wood but adds protection additives such as UV and adds no color whatsoever to the wood, thus clear. You see these terms used alot with deck colors and finishes. Now with that said you have clear and natural finishes also. These are top coats such as polyurethane, lacquers, shelacs. Your waterbased products are your clearest and can add no color unless they have stain mixed in with them. Oil based finishes will always have a yellow tint to them. Used on darker woods you never see it. Now all these finishes can have UV protection as well. Any stain or finish that adds color immediately adds protection from UV.