JTTHECLOCKMAN

http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/mineral-oil-as-a-wood-finish/

All spot on points mentioned by Jollyred.

Maybe a good way to keep tract of how long a piece takes but i see no advantage to know run time on a saw. That saw should outlast you. I would not want to tell a person buying the saw how much time is on it. Can work against you even though it maybe low number. really do not know how hard that saw was worked within that time frame. Alot different cutting thicker 3D projects than thin fret work. But i guess for your own knowledge maybe it is good. Just an opinion.

My use for lemon oil is as a carrier for when I am polishing out a project. That project usually has some exotic wood that needs no top coat and just needs to be polished to high rich shine. Along with mineral oil it does not last long. In a few days the oil is dried and the wood looks dry and feels dry. I do not like that look.

Holly is the whitest of white woods but tough to get boards of it that are pure white. Depending when it is harvested will show and most boards have grey running through it. I use it for pen making and small accent projects and many times if I want truest white I will bleach the wood using wood bleach. Many people use Aspen in place of Holly. You may want to check it out. This wood is extremely white also but it too is not cheap. You can bleach that too to make it even lighter. Then you can do the stain process and get some white stain and use a maple or other light colored wood.

I worked on these and 5 different pens which I entered in separate contests too and started about the third week in Dec after my shows. I finished in time Feb 15 with all projects to get them in time for the contests. So not working on every day but pretty regular that was about how much time.

Not many rules, just that it has to be hand made and no CNC or laser work. Can not show it anytime through other sites or anywhere before the contest. Can not use a pen you made which can give it away of who made it before end of contest. Have to be a member in good standings of the site. Any theme or design is acceptable. These are judged by the membership over a few day period. 140 people judged this. Have to say I agree with you on the look of his. Not sure what he was going for but what it shows is all the different techniques that can be done on a lathe with all the various turnings. Hopefully he will explain his project more in the coming days there. Thanks for your kind words.

I thought I would show a couple projects I entered into contests on the IAP penturning forum. Happy to say they took second and third. I just wanted to say thanks to 2 people who helped with the patterns and that is Tim ( WORBLER ) and Jim (JIMERN ) Thanks for the great patterns. This is a little lengthy but here they are with a bit of description. The first one is a pen display box based on the IAP (International Association of Penturners ) It is constructed in a diamond shape with birdseye maple and blue acrylic strips. The logo on the lid is cut from blue, black and white acrylic using the scrollsaw. It is inlayed into the lid. Inside the box the pen holder was sanded and crowned and flocked with a beautiful med blue flocking material as well as the underside of the lid. It can accommodate any size pen. The lid is a friction fit lift off design.The box was finished with 10 coats of clear gloss lacquer. Thanks for looking. The second project is a pen display stand and it too carries the IAP theme. The stand was constructed from curly maple and black acrylic strips for accents . A clock insert was added along with a base that is filled with blue coral acrylic pieces and encased in Liquid Diamonds epoxy resin. When looking down into this it really is a nice feature. Too tough to photograph. On the top sits the pen holders in the shape as 2 fountain pen nibs made from polished brass and maple. It can hold any size pen. The background clock holder was scrolled out and back painted with black paint. The entire stand was then finished with 10 coats of clear gloss lacquer. Thanks for looking. Again thanks for the pattern makers help.

That is a stunning piece. Job well done.

Very nice cutting. Just curious why you did not glue it before you finished it?? If I did the procedure you did then I would resort to epoxy and use the dabbing of the sponge method. I would have glued first and then used Titebond II and again sponge method.

Whats not to like?? Looks good to me.

The problem with quartersawn is the look is bland. With flatsawn wood you pick up the natural rays. I will not use quartersawn wood in my scrollsawn projects. I deal with warpage many different ways if it happens. Red oak is my go to wood. Love the look.

One on the left is Southern Yellow Pine and the one on the right is white pine. You are correct the construction pine is tougher and the grain lines are tough to cut with a scrollsaw blade. White pine or clear pine as it is called in the field is softer and less harsh grain and makes better for painting and craft work but is not as strong as yellow pine. Then there is Blue pine and Knotty pine. Sugar pine is another term used and that is in the species of white pine.

That surely is some mighty fine cutting. Came out great All aspects of it. I am sure it will be well received. Thanks for showing.

This may help all https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

If you have the resources I agree that is the best way to see for yourself the methods and products used. You can then make a better evaluation and choice.

I agree with this statement above 100%

Iggy maybe I can answer your question or maybe cause more questions. First BLO by itself will gel over time and become thicker than when first bought. People add mineral spirits to it not to stretch the amount but to thin it. That is just a side benefit. Now depending on the consistency of your BLO will determine the amount needed. You can not mess up the mixture. If you do a 50/50 thing just means it is that much thinner and will absorb into wood quicker. Some hard woods this is a good thing. As far as color goes it will always be the same no matter how much MS you use. It will pop the grain in woods and with all oils will give a warm yellow tint to woods. As far as time goes per dip is realtive to the woods used. Softer woods and woods with open grain such as oak will absorb the oils in a short time so a couple minutes is all that is needed. Closer grained woods need more time to penetrate more deeply. As with all oils they need to wiped down after they are removed but not needed right away. I like them to drain for about 5 minutes and then wipe down. Saves on material. BLO has driers in it to help it dry but not cure. As with all oils they need to cure which can take 48 hours or more depending on the atmosphere they are left in. If you are going to mix make sure you get true mineral spirits and stay away from that green stuff. Odorless is fine but will tell you they will still smell because BLO has an odor. You will not get a sheen from BLO because there is no top coat in it like Danish oil that has a mixture of poly in it. If mixing 50/50 you probably will cut down dry time somewhat but again the area allowed to dry will determine that too. Colder is not better. damper is not good. BLO is much cheaper than Danish oil by far. I like Danish oil because it does the exact same thing as BLO but leaves a nice soft sheen on my projects. Being you make puzzles I do not believe that is something that needs to be. The question gets asked does Danish oil protect the wood more than BLO and the answer is no. The amount of poly in Danish oil is minimal at best and will not protect against scratches or things like this where a true top coat will. Danish oil can pool more than BLO because if the poly flashes over it blocks the oils from penetrating and drying. But wiping down the project and this may have to happen a couple times will always cure that. Someone mentioned this and is sooooooooooooo true all oils are a potential fire starter. Do not clump rags up and leave in a pile. They can combust. I like to either hang them outside opened and or place in a bucket of water. This is a must. Not sure how much this helps.

Yes any oil will tint the project a warm yellow but to me that is a good thing unless you are going for true natural colors and things like holly. I prefer Watco Danish oil and have been using it since I started woodworking. deft has come out with a new can so not sure if they changed formula but I went around and bought as many of the old cans I could get. I like rattle can deft. I will break out the spray equipment if I have many projects to do and they are fairly large and then I go with water based lacquer. Easier to clean the equipment. Put them side by side with Deft and you can not tell the difference. Again it is a matter of choice. I have done gloss and satin lacquer in wall clocks as well as just Danish oil. Just a look that you are going for. Anything in oils and lacquer have a strong smell. anything waterbased not so much.

Kevin I wish we lived closer. I could show you first hand and with product in hand the differences. First I think we discussed this before but the basics are. Linseed oil is a product that is seldom used in finishing because it really does not dry. Boiled linseed oil is derivative of this but is a thin down version and a mix of agents such as driers so that it will absorb well into the wood as does linseed oil but will cure faster. Tung oil is basically the same thing but comes from a different plant. Linseed oil is similar to flaxseed oil but not drinkable. Now Danish oil is basically BLO but has polyurethane added to give it somewhat a tougher finish and a small sheen. They have driers in them to help dry faster but with all finishes, dry does not mean cured. That takes different times due to weather conditions in your drying area such as humidity and temps. With these finishes usually one coat is all that is needed because no more will be absorbed and you are just laying it on and sometimes it cures in puddles and not a good look or feel. All these products can be top coated with poly or lacquer to give the protection and shine you desire and that is up to you. I always prefer lacquer over poly because withlaquer you are not building layers as you do with poly, but rather are making a thicker layer and the depth looks deeper . I rarely use poly. I basically use poly if it is an outdoor piece or something that needs a stronger protection. Lacquer does not dry as hard as poly. Lacquer is a finish that is more forgiving and easier to repair. Now most furniture people use lacquers but it is not the same as we use and their finish is tougher. Now the old saying is do not mix finishes and it is true. But with Danish oil the amount of poly is small so it will not affect anything if you top coat with lacquer. I have done it many times but again making sure the piece is cured and not just dried. I like the look of satin lacquers on many projects or will go to gloss. I never use semigloss because it is a look that is in between and shows you did not make a commitment. Again this is a personal choice thing. That clock is a wall hanger from what I can tell and will not get abused from touching all the time so any finish will do. Most my projects I sell are finished with Watco Danish oil and then are top coated with watco satin wax. Again I mentioned this before the look and feel of a piece comes down to sanding. I sand all projects with 220 grit paper and thus I get a nice feel. Anything less you leave the grain more open and the feel gets rougher. I can not tell you what or how to finish that piece because it is a look thing. Good luck. I will say this all finishes are toxic and the smell is strong so work in a well ventilated area. Just a more direct answer to your first question, the difference with BLO you buy and one you mix is unless you are also adding a drier to the mix then it is a thinned down version without the driers. Bought stuff has driers and helps dry and cure faster. Now your version can dry faster if you thin down alot more. Remember BLO is a thinned down version of Linseed oil already. If it is thick then it is going bad.

Again this is NOT a new saw. They have been making this saw for years now. They are in the business to make products that require precision then do so. If this is all new to them and they want to make excuses I guess it is up to you if you want to believe this. I am in the position I will never be buying another saw but if I were buying a Hawk i think I would look at older models and buy on craigs list. If they are having vibration problems now what will they be when shipped and on the market for a year. 3 months to get a scrollsaw. unheard of. I wish you all the best when you do get it and hope it is all you expected.

I would think by now they have a handle on how many they sell a year with a certain tolerance. I also think there is periods during the year that sales are more robust than others so they should know how to work around this. You have a product to sell and if there is long time delays in getting that product out then get out of the business because you will be run over. Its not like they are changing models anytime soon so that model will be around for many more years to come. Keeping in contact with the client makes good business sense. Word of mouth and the many forums out there can mean $$$ one way or other. I give them no pass at all.

Its a scroll saw for Pete's sake. Not making a car. That is a bunch of phooy if you ask me. 3 month's to build a scrollsaw. It can turn potential customers away because there are other options out there. The arms are probably the crucial parts so when they get them running as mentioned stock pile them. Everything else is pick it off the shelf. Those stands have been used for years. The motors are shipped in. The bellows are shipped in and the list goes on so what is it do they machine. I think I would pitching a little noise. Good luck.

The only time I use so called bench cookies is for finishing and for those I made a couple scrap pieces of wood about 5" X 5" and ran some screws through the bottom. Now the piece sits up on the points of the screw. Work very well.