JTTHECLOCKMAN

Are you sure you inserted the blade correctly. Easy to get them confused because teeth up and down. The small amount of teeth on the bottom should not be enough to pull the board upwards. My go to FD blade is #5 Penguin silver reverse. They are not as sharp like ultras. I cut everything with them.

I use my tablesaw alot. Any time I do some cut that I feel unsafe I make a jig to rectify that. I am comfortable enough around the saw that I do understand the dangers. I have cut hundreds of thousands of these small pieces to make these baskets over the years. Made a jig to do it but every so often one gets hung up and clips the blade just right and gets launched. It penetrated my back sheetrock wall that is about 15 feet behind me, like it was butter. The first time it happened it scared me but I knew it was possible so like you I know not to stand in the danger path. These pieces are not large but can be a dangerous. Good luck and stay safe.

The smaller the piece the smaller the tape to hold the piece. A spinning tablesaw blade will rip a small piece so fast you will not see it. If a tablesaw blade has any run out in it it wobbles and that is an extra force side to side thus pull the tape off the board. Kickback is highly likely in that situation. You do as you see fit. Just a suggestion. but I have seen this before. Even doing shapes like that on a bandsaw can be troublesome because when the blade hits the front of the object it wants to force the piece downward and can dislodge the tape. The scrollsaw would be the best choice because you control the speed and thus the force applied to piece. Now I have used your method to cut tiny little piece but they were cut from longer pieces.

If you are going to do this why not cut the stock down to thickness before you scroll the pieces. Having a larger piece of wood may help prevent kickback. Such small pieces can be launched quickly.

I do not know. It just makes sense.

I have always cut both same time. That is a scrollers tip that has been passed down for many ages. Seen that when I started some 40 years ago and it works well. Always good to repeat some of these type tips.

Where is the front tension knob? see if anything here helps. Good source of info. https://sheilalandrydesigns.com/free-pattern/tuning-your-excelsior-or-excalibur-scroll-saw/ Or Here https://www.caboolturewoodcrafters.com/Manuals/excalibur scrollsaw _manual.pdf Or here https://scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/excalibar_tune_up.htm

I did not say do not paint it. I said why does it have to match. That will not get you $1 more. Paint it black or pick a close colored paint from Home Depot. You can get a custom colored paint mixed from auto repair. Big$$$. Yes you do better if it is painted and not rusty that is obvious. For your reading pleasure. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/18194-hegner-paint/

Why does it have to be same color. Paint it black. Not going to add any value. As long as you have a stand. Label is on stand so cover that. Or just get a bunch of red cans or orange, whatever that color is, of paint and have at it.. Dewalt stand is black.

He said he fixed it. Was control board problem. How he fixed he did not say.

I think it is best to leave this here and move on. Glad you found a solution to your problem. I and am sure others wish you alot of luck in your other adventures. Many of us here are scrollers for many years and have used used this platform to educate ourselves as well as help others when called upon. We all have other careers and many times they come into play while answering other questions. many times a topic goes astray abit but this is normal for all web sites including FB. When we come here we choose to participate or just lay out for many reasons. Sometimes and again this happens in all forums but the written word gets misinterpreted which is normal. We all do not talk the same way and that is a good thing. But there is no ill intent here. Sometimes it takes some time to get into the feel of a site. Knowing the players is part of it. Always nice to know a little background on people here. But also remember we pay to play here too. Not like FB. So again very happy with your fix and always like to hear this. And whatever you do to help others on your other ventures. Always feels good to repay others with knowledge you gained in some fashion through others.

Put it on rubber feet and will do the same thing. Foam is doing nothing. Just suggestions.

Easy does it. That one line statement is very limited with info. A saw can have various problems that mimic each other. Being an electrician I seen this many times in the field. Can not pinpoint things with such little info. Glad you fixed it but it is nice to reply and tell us that you did.

I guess no follow up. Maybe scared him off.

The biggest thing with plywood is the end grain and multiple plys seen. Many people including myself see this use as cheap because they refer to plywood as cheaper than solid woods and many times it is. But we all know BB is not really cheap because of its construction. But that is a stigma that has to be overcome. Then there is the stability thing. With solids woods and depending how thin you are making, the warping factor comes into play and thus plywood wins out there. Then there is the staining thing. BB or any plywood does not take stain well and look as good as solid wood. Again the ends take stain differently than face of BB. Some people get around this by painting. Now you can get shades of plywood but they are only with veneer top layers and again the end grain is what jumps out. Cost wise you are probably in the same area because now you have to buy stains and do that work as opposed to working with nature's woods. I am in the soild wood arena.

That is a tough question because we have no idea what type project this is. When you say layered, what does that mean. Steve Good does alot of projects that are layered. The guy here Fox something or other does all layered projects. Some people paint layers. Is this a 3D project or some sort of scene project? need more info or examples.

What in the world are we looking at. This saw has some mileage on it. What tray? All that foam is rediculous. That is not stopping vibration of any kind. Put some rubber pads under the feet of the saw. Clean that up. I see you use a aquarium air pump for dust removal. How is that hooked in your circuit. ?

When people come on any forum and they have a problem, what happens is they do not give enough info and then the questions start and it takes awhile to get to the root of the problem. I suggest you give us more info. When you say you plug saw in outlet it trips breaker. What breaker? Is this a GFCI outlet and if so move it to one that is not. Is the saw off when you plug in? It better be. If it trips panel breaker then try a different outlet and or different circuit like in a different room to be sure it is not the outlet causing the problem. But if saw is off and the breaker trips then it is in the cable leading into saw. could be a damaged cable, bad male end of chord. After this we need need more info. if plugged in and does not trip but does when saw is turned on the more than likely the switch has gone bad. Are you using a foot switch and if so what kind. See how far this has gone just from your one line statement. I also do not know what you mean you replaced the power cables. What does that mean? There is a fuse on those saws and did you check that. Man I just looked at your other post about the vibrating saw. My suggestion is to step back and clean that mess up. You can do alot better job of setting that saw up. Take all that foam off and get some plywood and attach to base and then some thick rubber pads or cut pieces off something. they sell them in Home depot. That will help take some vibration out. Make sure the stand is sitting on a solid surface floor and legs are spread properly. I see the cables used and they look way too small and shoddy. Please invest in better electric cables. Also I see you have an aquarium pump as dust remover. I assume the one on the saw does not work. How is this connected to the saw? This can be your problem of tripping breakers if that pump is not working correctly. Any pumps has start up current draw. Again I point to shoddy cables. I am not knocking your set up but you can do better and enjoy the hobby more.

It takes me 2 blades per bill. Now with puzzle blades they do break easily too. Sometimes your fault and some times manufacturing fault. Blades are the one thing that just is not a big factor when doing scrollsaw work. yes I know you are looking to get a feel for amounts needed. But ordering more than enough for a project is always a good thing. I order blades by the gross. Saves money. I am only an FD blade user these days. As far as cutting goes I have a complete woodworking shop with all the basic tools. I use my tablesaw to cut these as I do most my dimensioned lumber. Once you get the exact size for the width, just run a bunch of strips. Then you set up for the length and I use a stop block after I zero in on the right size. Nothing to that. Simple when you have the right tools. Not sure what you have available but am sure you can compensate. Top coating is to protect the finish on the paper. I chose lacquer because it did not darken the paper and kept it looking natural. I chose flat because that is what money is. Not gloss. Finally these are prop money and not real money. It is the same money that is used in movies and TV shows. You can get new money with no creases as these are or you can get what looks like used money and all crinkly. If you look at the bill you will see on top prop money. Have to say there were reports of people passing these type money as counterfeit.

My method is simple. Yes always sand the BB plywood before attaching paper. Second vac it off. Then what I do is spray with dewaxed shellac. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. Yes on the roller. Need to make sure all air bubbles are out. I let dry. I then do a quick hand sand on the edges incase any adhesive over spilled. By the way my blanks are cut exactly to the size of the dollar bills. Then I spray both top and bottom with several coats of flat lacquer to seal the paper. The first coat is a light mist to not soak the paper. It would change the color of the print if soaked. After that I will spray several more coats till I am satisfied. Nothing is written in stone. Then I wait a day before I now place scotch tape around the entire blank. I am sure you could use other materials for this. The tape lubricates the blade because as mentioned they dull very quickly because of the very thin and small teeth. I then attach pattern with the same 3M adhesive. Yes when cut I then have to peel the tape off but it comes off easily because of the lacquer. just my way of doing this. Your mileage may vary. Test before committing. I have cut many of these and sold many. After doing a few the cuts become so easy and redundant your mind may wonder so stay alert. The advantage of what I do, the people actually get 2 puzzles in one. They can assemble as front or back. When they mix them they can become even more of a challenge. I do not worry about the wood because BB is a nice wood that is strong. you want to use a puzzle blade for small puzzles like this because the pieces stay together and are not too loose when cut. Use larger blades and the piece fall apart easily. When I sell them I had bought some nice resalable plastic bag that are perfect size. I then found some nice size boxes that work well too. Makes a nice gag gift. or stocking stuffer. Steve Good has the patterns on his site. Being I am sharing my method I should mention to save time in the end, I cut these in strips. Does not make a difference top to bottom or end to end. But after I cut them I place the strip aside and do the next just to keep all together. Alot more work if I had to assemble all of them. . I like doing puzzle like the next guy but that would be ridiculous. Even after I take all tape off I line back up and put together. I use a thin piece of cardboard to keep assembled and till I bag them. I in fact include said cardboard with the puzzle so that when they take out of box it is laying flat. They are the first people to take apart and reassemble again.

What kind of puzzles are you talking about? If you are talking those stand up animal puzzles then the pieces are large enough that if you have any fuzees it is easy to sand. but if you are talking small puzzles then I suggest you use Baltic Birch as material and no sanding is needed when using puzzle blades. This is the type I do. and no sanding is needed, I in fact place a front face of bill and a back face of the bill on opposite side and cut away.

Absolutely. Highly recommended

I say you need to show photos of what you are talking about to help us understand what you are asking. My guess is you make scrolled cuttings that are pictures and you frame them. Now do you cover with glass or are they open framed.? What are wanting to achieve? keeping dust off which will never happen unless you encapsulate them. or looking for a sheen? Have to ask if you have behind glass why would you want a sheen? Too much glare will distort. What are you dipping in? Need more info.

I will always argue this point about setting any guage to a miter slot. The miter slot needs to be set to the blade. Then anything can be set from it. Many people overlook this. Different ways of setting this depends on the tablesaw. Just my point of view.

Errors. Where to begin? Have no idea how you built this so can not comment in those errors. But as Bill said movement when cutting can be a problem. People use either sandpaper on edges of the guides or clamps of some sort. You need to use a stop block to keep piece equal. The runners can have no play at all and yet slide easily. If those rails are not set right, the mistake is multiplied 8 times so just a tiny increment can mean alot in final assembly. There are many versions of good miter sleds on the net. any runout in the saw you are using will add to errors. Good luck with your project.