JTTHECLOCKMAN

I ordered a bunch 10 X 10 napkins and decided I will make all patterns fit that size. I like some of the pattern ideas coming through.

Well if you are interested in my opinion, the larger clock insert overwhelms the piece by alot and I would not go that way. The 2" is too small. But with that said the options are places like Walmart and AC Moore, or Michaels or even Hobby Lobby sell the in between size inserts. Now they are more expensive but if this is a one time thing and you will change at a later date the size of the pattern then it might be worth the extra couple dollars for one insert. Now another suggestion would be, you said you will use a different colored wood for the base, is make a detail skirt around the clock insert. Make it the exact 1/2 of what the space is between the edge of the clock and the outside edge of the clock circle. You could go 3/4 of the distance if that is too thin, but you want the light wood o show the circle too. You can just make a circle or get fancy and do some sort of edging. Make it a thin layer nothing thicker than 1/8" That is my ideas.

There are many variations to cauls and uses. Just to give you some idea. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=woodworking+cauls&id=DBD370EBC6D71E145D5E18EE00C210BC52E7E1E2&FORM=IQFRBA

I use to get wood paneling if anyone remembers what paneling was. Home Depot use to discount broken and damaged sheets. I use to buy all they had and that stuff was used for everything including protecting my floors when I was redoing some rooms in the house. I do not even know if they still sell wood paneling. Everything today is fiberboard.

If you are talking about stacking of the rings.The best way that I use is weight. I glue the rings and align them then I take a 10 lb weight and place it on a flat board. I have a bunch of baltic birch cutoffs of different sizes I use for this. I place the weight on the board and then lift the board and set it gently on the top ring. I use Titebond II wood glue so after a couple minutes it is tacky enough nothing moves around. I will check the alignment after a couple more minutes to make sure all is fine. I then replace the board with the weight making sure it is centered on the rings and will add another 25 pound weight on top of the 10. That is plenty of downward pressure and clamping pressure. I do this all the time. Need to make sure the board is flat and the table you set on is flat. I use my barbell weights being I do not lift any more.

Actually that is a good score and you did well with it. all nice projects. I need to go down that isles more often when in Home Depot.

My friend, you must have misunderstood. Dan took photos of his drill press because he has the same model I was referring to and he was good enough to post. I would have had to take some photos because I do not have any stored anywhere. That is what is nice about this place someone always steps up in case we who are asked questions do not get back right away. As far as my gallery here, I mentioned this before that at one time I had one but it never came over with the new format when Travis made the switch so someday I may start a new one here. Probably then we will switch once again.

There you go Ray Dan did a good job with the photos. The same drill press. Like I said my 12 and 16 both have that locking system and works great. Just got out of the shop and used it 3 times for 3 different projects. If I had to keep lowering and raising the table it would drive me crazy. But I have to do that at times too. The ring between the handle and the drill press with that little flip lever is what I am talking about. Thanks Dan saves me from finding a link or taking camera out.

With all that said and I agree how the heck did he do this??? Some of those books are from the beginning of scrolling days. There are no CD's out of each and every book listed. Something is fishy to begin with and to charge that small amount. Lets say there was a way of doing this, imagine the time and money spent to do this.

Both my table top 12" Delta and Delta 16" floor model have a locking system on the crank handle and does not have that nut detent system. I use that to set depth or if I need to lower the quill and just lock in place. Has a little thumb wing to turn and is so easy to set. I use my drill press for so many projects so I am constantly changing drilling depths and as I said I always lower the forstner bit to the depth I want next to the piece and lock that ring. Very easy and accurate. Just like a router bit you do not bottom out a forstner bit in a chuck. So that setting can change each and every time you go to drill a clock insert out and having designated spacers may work for you but would never for me. Just the way we all do things differently but get to the same results. If there is any people actually reading these things, one other tid bit of info that is a good practice to follow and this goes way back to when they use to use and some still do, use keyed chucks in drill motors. But it is prudent to tighten the chuck with the key in more than one hole to make sure the bit is centered in the chuck and all jaws have the same pressure applied. If not you run the risk of the bit slipping more easily and also can make the bit untrue when drilling and you will notice a wobble.

OK another idea. How about a christmas tree with a star on the top. Look good with white or green napkins. I like this idea.

Turkey is next. Bring it on. Just ordered a bunch of colored napkins so I need to wait to see what size I need to make some of these things. They will have to wait anyway. I am in the middle of the Penturning birthday party bash and entering some more contests this year. But good to go. Also I have to finish a pen and pen box for my brother who collects Budweiser stuff. I got a pattern some time ago here and I need to bring it to life. That too is next in line.

You are on a roll with these. I like it too and will get a copy. On my to do list.

More wrong than right Kevin. But when all said and done if you and everyone else look back to my comments and you will read if the chuck jaws are hitting the wood the bit is either too short or is slipping. This is as common sense as there can be when using a drill press no matter what one you have. Said it about 3 times and even made a joke with it. Ray contradicted you when you mentioned it and that is when I suggested the travel thing. Go back and read from the beginning and take in your post too and see what he said to you. Then we have all the people setting up experiments like a lab or something. The most basic question gets blown to smithereens and again I stand behind every word I said and advise I gave here. I do not mind being wrong and being brought to my attention but if people are too lazy to read then I have no control over that. I know what I am doing in my shop and know how to use every tool in my shop.

Say whatever you want Brad there will be no changing your mind you are right all are right and travel has nothing to do with his problem I am wrong as I always am Every answer I ever gave is wrong so do not listen to what I say I have a bucket full of holes You are right BRAD as always SIR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Love this too. Nice idea.Keep them coming.

I think we are all saying the same thing here. And yes travel has alot to do with it but it is his key words of the chuck hitting the wood leads you to believe the bit is too short. Being it is because it slips or started out as too short. Ray will answer.

Brad we all know how polite you like to be but you are not reading what I said and have no way to put that politely. So you are not differing with me but saying the exact same thing. But will ask you if you have 2-1/2" of travel and the space between the project and the tip of the bit is over 1 " before you start and all considered that the bit does not slip and the bit is 2" long how is that suppose to get to the bottom of the piece. You lost over an inch of travel before you started. I am not wrong but if he has slippage and or the bit is too short to start with than all bets are off. If you read his third post he answered Kevin when he suggested slippage but Ray went on to talk about the sarificial board and that is what led me to travel problem. I have a 12" table top Delta along with a floor model.

No his problem is in the travel. He is allowing too much distance between the project piece and the tip of the drill bit. He then spent alot of the allowable travel to just get to the project piece. If the bit is slipping I would think he would see that. May have to get him some better glasses. Others told him to check for slippage and easy enough to measure. If it is too short than shame on him and he is banned from the shop for life. Whenever I drill with a forstner bit I use the detent stops and allow the bit to ride along side the piece to the depth I want and then lock the stop down. No need to keep moving the table that is why they have the stop function. Not sure what the travel is on those small drill presses. I have a sacrificial board double sided tape on the table at all times. I also have it so it sticks out further on the side to give better support and also allows me to set up stop blocks when drilling multiple holes. Clamps and double sided tape work wonders.

I like it. keep them coming.

To the answer is in your travel. If you put the bit in the chuck and you measure its length it must be 1-1/2" or better to start. Now without the project piece there pull the handle down as far as you can with no stop detent holding you back. Should be a free fall. Now as you hold that there raise the table so that blade touches your sacrificial piece. Now let the arm back up Now measure the distance between the tip of the bit and the top of your sacrificial piece. If it measure and it should, over 1-1/2" means you have enough travel in the quill to do your operation. Now lower the table with the sacrificial piece still on it and insert your project piece between the bit and the table with as little space in between as possible. You are now good to go. I believe your travel is not allowing enough because you set the distance between the bit and project piece as too much before it enters the piece. Narrow that space up and it has to work. But if that bit is sliding up the chuck then you have other problems. But that is where your mystery is. Good luck.

For your reading pleasure https://www.whats-your-sign.com/celtic-knots.html

I like to see them in inches. Thanks.

Job well done.

That one did work. Thank you. Keep up the good work. love these.