JTTHECLOCKMAN

Oh, well that is a different story and I am not aware of that because I do not use those blades. Hope you work things out.

Roger I do not use it on scrollsaw bearing. Most scrollsaw bearings are enclosed and sealed and should not need lubrication because you are not going to be able to get any in anyway. Usually when bearings go on a scrollsaw they need replacing. I mentioned the use of that stuff for ball bearing items such as router bits. Scrollsaw bearing are mainly needle bearings and the best lubricant for those is grease. A good quality grease made to take heat. Many times bearings like that get repacked but if sealed you are not getting apart. Now that spray is good for pivot points that rub and I suggested to someone instead of taking his bearings out to try some of that before he removes them He is not going to be able to spray in there. It is better than oils if there is no reservoir for the oils. (motors are different because they have a reservoir to hold oils. ) What scrollsaw are you referring to??

Very nice cutting Rob. Nice smooth lines on the turns. That takes some practice.

Yes Ray same thing. The Hegner is metal. Why that has never been upgraded is a mystery because they do become stretched and what happens the clamp can slip to the notch that you do not want it in which is probably the more aggressive cutting mode. I know right away if that happens so I move it. But with the spring steel one it rarely happens, unless I set it there from the get go. Not sure what the new saws have and Kevin will give us all a report when he gets his new saw.

Kevin a man of your caliber should be able to figure the cutting the blade thing. I keep a pair of diagonal pliers next to the saw and after the first cut I instantly know how much to cut off. If you do not get down to the exact MM it is not going to matter on the Hawk. You over cut a smidge it is not going to matter. try it and do not be afraid. All you do is install in lower blade as you normally do and with the arm down lay the blade against the clamp and shoot for the top pin on the clamp. Could not be any easier on the Hawk. Now is that enough to get rid of the bad ends you talk about I do not know because I never used Pegas blades and have no intentions. Love the FD blades.

It could have been many things that led to that. I see it alot in my trade from turning a screwdriver. My Brother had it done. Need to make some better blade clamp knobs.

Mine is the year they went to the square blade holders so probably around the same year. Never did any maintenance on them and they run like a clock. Can not say enough good things about those saws. If you find one in that range Ray and is a decent price give it a try. As with all saws they may need some getting use to but nothing drastic. Outside of the tension lever, blade clamps, and those silly plastic blade holders that I made a spring steel one for replacement, nothing has been replaced and many many many hours are on them and more to come.

Again Kevin it is possible I guess but I too get my deliveries by DSL and in fact have to sign for them when they arrive. How she is doing something we can not get to happen with everyday vendors here in the USA is amazing. There are times when vendors over in China have factory outlets here in the USA too. Whatever the case that is good service. China vendors are subsidised by the government for shipping and that is why they can offer free shipping and low shipping rates so you can not compare them to us or Canada. Every business platform is not the same and they work off of what they think works for them. No such thing as a cookie cutter business platform. You see it in your web sites and the different places you sell. The thing is if you have good success with a business then stay with them get screwed and move on there are always others selling the same things. To your moving up to 2" inserts is just a matter of enlarging the patterns you use by a small margin. I do it all the time. Sometimes there is enough room within a pattern to just make a larger hole. I agree sometimes it throws off balance but that is where enlarging the pattern comes in. Maybe it is because I am getting older and seeing a larger clock face helps me and that is my way of thinking now. Not sure what it is but I sure am stepping up alot of my patterns these days. I may have to make a large order for 2" inserts from China soon. But again I do not do the volume you do so will have to see on this. Good luck.

I just took another look at the pattern I bought and the proverbial wheels started rolling. I think I can just take one of the geared wheels and make that a separate pattern and enlarge it some and add some detail items to it. There is more to these patterns than meets the eye. I can even make it into a clock. Man the ideas keep coming. Will have to work on color choices too.

If you do decide to make the clock maybe keep a running photo album of the build. I know many people do that when they do the Dome clocks. Lots of wood in that project. At one time those large clocks were something I wanted to try also. But got over it because I have no room for something like that. But add a light package and they are something to marvel at. Today with LED lights easy to do. Hope you add some stained glass in it too. Good luck.

Well Kevin have to say you did good on clock inserts one week from China?? ( I do not believe it) because I have 2 orders in right now in China and one is for an X Y table for my drill press and and for marbles, yes I said marbles from china and will not get till end of Jan. I just got a shipment of billiardballs in from China and it took 4 weeks but when I placed the order they said between Jan 25 and Feb 5 Ordered Nov 15 and received in 4 weeks after. I have no idea how China deals with shipping. I have plenty other examples of items ordered from China that took real long and others that I see within 4 weeks. All items I plan on long trip times. Never have I gotten something shipped from China in one week. I too order inserts from there. You must be special. You should have to deal with Penn State Industries. No matter what day of the week you order their orders go out one week later. I deal with them on occasion for pen related things. Don't bother emailing them better to call. As I said it has been some time ago I ordered from them. Maybe someone else can answer to it. Hang in there. On your order of clock inserts did you start bumping up to 2" as you said you would?/ I have started doing this.

Good eye Kevin. You really must know what you are looking at when buying a second hand saw plus need to run it through its paces unless it is a ridiculously low price. Same with any tool with motors and moving parts.

Holiday season Kevin. May have to cut them a break. I have ordered from them before and can not really recall how long things took but I planned on being a little extra long because of location.

Is it a type#1 or type #2?? Should say on the label. Do you know how many hours are on the saw?? Knocking is not a good thing but can be overcome. There are videos on how and what to look for. It was posted here not long ago. Will have to look for that. It is a 4 part series and shows everything about that saw. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=video+of+how+to+take+a+Dewalt+788+saw+apart&docid=607991385635949302&mid=3B91AE534679124A612E3B91AE534679124A612E&view=detail&FORM=VIREH

If you are talking to me it will be a longgggggggggggggggggggggggggg time before I get to that project if at all this year but it is on my radar and ordered the pattern and I like them and find I can make them and charge just what it takes when selling them and bet they will sell. I make things to sell these days. The projects I make for family are very few these days because I do not have much family left. I do not like doing portraits but that is a whole other thread. 400 cuts on one portrait is not my cup of tea for sure. But again to each their own but to say they take alot of material you really need to learn how to layout patterns and large clocks will test that on you.

Before you rip out and replace bearings you can try some bearing lubricant spray. I am not sure if they even make this any more but I use Sandaro bearing lubricant and have for years mainly on my router bit bearings and it is good stuff. Can't hurt to try something. Not WD40 stay far away from that stuff around bearings. I guess Bostic bought them out or something but it is the same can so not sure what happened. http://www.wurthlac.com/storefront/adhesives-lubricants/lubricants/bearing-lubricant-5-oz-/prodSDBL5.html

Use BB plywood and do not use hardwoods. I hope you all never do any large clocks because you all will freak out with the amount of wood needed there. Sorry I do not agree with you all. I am in with these type patterns. To each their own.

Wow hope you get this figured out. Sorry I do not use that saw so can not help. It was talked about in another thread how new saws and tools need tweaking when they are new and it is actually a shame that a saw comes out of a factory untested outside of plug it in and does it run. Not like these saws or any scrollsaw is that popular and in such demand. Again hope these are minor flaws that can be corrected.

Say What???

Thanks for the link. That gear one has my name all over it. I am getting that one for sure. Wish he would make one more manly too without the hearts. I may have to improvise. I left him a note maybe he will do something like that in the future.

Good luck.

My 2 cents worth. Yes the spring could be getting weak. If so take some length out of it by recutting it and putting back under the screw. Easy enough to do or find one probably in Lowes or Home Depot. Second the arm bushing could become dry and wont allow great movement. Take spring off and feel the tension on the bearing. Should be easliy moved up and down and if not then that bearings may need to be replaced. Third thing is and this could lead to your vibration thing too, is that lever handle has a tendency to float over toward the side of the arm and rubs on it. This adds resistance to that arm lifting. Even though it is metal on metal it still can wear. I will usually get a metal noise hard to describe when that happens but know what it is so just move over again and is good for many many hours again. As I said many times here before I hardly ever play with that lever and never had to replace and my saw is as old. If I change blades to a larger blade I will just nip some of the top of the blade and keep same setting. Only do I touch that lever is when I switch to very fine blades such as Jewelers blades. Also the vibration thing always check the obvious. Make sure the table nuts and bolts have not come loose. Make sure the 4 legs are sitting firmly and splayed properly. Make sure there is no small pieces of wood caught under the arms or build up of sawdust around moving points. Make sure all things are tight. Vibration can be transmitted many different ways and tough to locate. But a thorough check of things eliminates things. The people at RBI will tell you to do these things first off.

They are actually pretty quiet. Hooked to a good compressor and you are golden. I have something similar with the intention of doing work like what Roly shown but that is a long way down the wish list. But I can say I have the tool That counts on my list of tools when I pass on and the count is in.

Did it on both my Hawks and Hegner. Just made out of 1/4" plexiglass and secured with double sided tape. I still am able to use reverse tooth blades because all you need is a couple teeth for them to work like they should.

Top feeding is more a touch and feel thing and is harder to do unless you do it since you started or have for a long time. I will never be a top feeder.