JTTHECLOCKMAN

Down size the photo in your place where you store them and then link to it using the choose files. 600x800 is a great size for forums.

This subject was brought very recently so if you go back and read some of the past threads you may find what you are asking. Alot has to do with the type of work you do. I use a porta cable block sander for over 30 years and will always use them. Fits my needs. But then again I have about 20 other sanders too so not the person to answer I guess.

Iggy, thanks for the explanation. I still do not get it but I can relate. My clocks serve a purpose along with the looks nice factor so I guess there is some comparison. I took an idea when I started making clocks , that most people need clocks around them and expande from there. I guess you found a niche that hits peoples pocketbooks so good for you and continued success. There never will be a shortage of dogs so you are solid.

Iggy I have to ask and please do not take this the wrong way. Looking for an education. You have sold thousands of these from what I have been reading the time I have been here and we agree on this. Can you explain to me who buys these and why?? You say kids puzzles and I can surmise that part but why do grown-ups buy them and what do they do with them?? It is not like it is very challenging for an adult if they are buying as a puzzle. I am just trying to figure the fascination. You do nice work for sure but Just because a person has a dog of a certain breed what does he do with the puzzle, give it to the dog to solve??? help me understand this fascination. I may have to start making puzzle animals. I can put clocks in them.

Where abouts in NJ?? Another Jersey guy. You will like the Hegner. It is a solid saw and will give many years of fun. Hope to see some of your work.

I can do it and have done it. Its all is about your skill of scrolling. The little tricks you teach yourself when learning to scroll such as let the blade cut and apply just enough force to cut. Look ahead of the pattern line anticipating the move and so on. I know the photos I am showing are not circles but the same idea is with patterns to get them right so they line up well. These are older photos and I have no way to blow them up but if you can enlarge you will see some pretty tight accuracy. This technique is very important when doing those fold out baskets or trivets as they were called. That is 10 maybe 12 circles next to each other constantly getting smaller. I always checked peoples work when I see those and that tells me what kind of scroller they are. Bad cuts jump up and out at you easily. That is where I learned to cut accurately because I made a ton of those trivets over the years when they were popular. have no web photos because that was before I even owned a computer. Have plenty of still photos.

flush trim template router bit. But as said the easiest and fastest way is with a circle cutting jig on a bandsaw and being he has a bandsaw half the problem goes away. The only thing that can derail this idea is if the pattern is like the first one shown where the elk antler sticks outside the ring. You could always just cut that small part flush which is what I would do if it were me.

But are they??? Why 1/4" for ornaments?? 1/8" is the norm because you want light weight if hanging on a tree. MDF is heavier all around. Again do as you want, just throwing opinions out there.

yep walnut what do we win.

Much more stable and won't fall apart. MDF is wood dust and glue basically Harder on the blades than BB too. Just my opinion.

I realize there are photos on the net but just thought you all are taking these apart why not snap a photo. If not doesn't bother me.

To get perfect circles on both the clock face and the backer is to use a circle cutting jig on a bandsaw. Once set up you can knock them out very quickly and accurately, especially if all your clocks are the same size. You could even stack cut them if you like with double sided tape and stack them as high as your blade guard allows. But as always need to allow the blade to do the cutting and not force the turns. They have kits or so easy to make I make my own. I do this all the time with my round mirrors. Just measure the clock pattern and that is the size circle to cut. If you want a 1/4 reveal then add 1/2" to the clock size. Cut the wood and attach the pattern. You will have the center hole already. I spin the wood on a nail but you can use dowels. The one with the spikes then I would do as suggested and just use a bearing or washer to make the backer piece and cut individually. I do not like the square idea.

You know what would be nice if you take photos of what you are doing or anyone for that matter to document it for others to see and refer to. seems there are many Dewalt users here and they seem to be constantly looked at and worked on. It would be nice to archive some photos of work being done on them. Maybe this thought can be applied to other saws as well if you have to do major surgery on them. Just a thought and I have plenty of those.

Baltic Birch plywood in my opinion would be a better choice. I have seen people just use a clear finish on them and sell them. Gives people an option to paint their own colors if they want. Probably cost is close. MDF would never be my choice of materials for crafting. Just my opinion.

Wax paper is so cheap and I use it alot when gluing pen blanks up or using a jig to hold glued up pieces and it works so well why mess with success. This method is probably good for what you are doing if that is the way you like to glue backers. too me too much glue and squeeze out can occur unless I am not following your method. Hopefully it can help someone Always good to get different methods.

For those that do not believe wood glue will hold up outdoors here is a project I did 12 years ago. My Dad passed away and it was a hard time for me and my family. We would go to the grave site to place flowers but just did not seem right. I know it was going to be quite some time before the family could all get together and pick a headstone for him and then time for the place to make it and install it and it would be well past winter. I just decided to take a scroll sawn pattern I had of The Lord and enlarge it along with designing a cross. I then added the letters by designing the saying and making them of proper size. This cross stayed on the grave site for almost 1 year and it was outdoors in all the weather and the winter was quite bad. Thus the granite people did not put the headstone there till sometime in June the following year. We did not care so much because I had placed this cross there and the family appreciated it. I never shown this on any site before and I only bring this up to make my point. The letters were attached with Titebond II not even III which is suppose to be water resistant. The wood used was mahagony which is a very good outdoor wood and the lettering and design was maple. I attached the letters just the way I described above. I finished in 6 to 7 coats of sprayed on marine spar varnish. When I took that cross away it was in as good shape as when I placed it there. It served its purpose and held up well so for what the OP is doing here he should have no problems being his sign will not see direct weather.

Man if you guys are recommending construction adhesive for some little letters than why not the original adhesive that started all those types, Liquid Nails or PL6000 Will not beat those for holding power. Could also add a few brads per letter.

Use them all the time. I mentioned this many times here. I use Penguin silver reverse #5 FD blades in just about all my cuttings. I cut mostly red oak maple, walnut and never ever ever ever had a problem with pulling up of wood. I allow the saw to do the cutting and do not push. never in a hurry here.

A few things here. You said the letter will be black and you are mounting to oak. Are you wanting the oak a natural color or will it too be black. I have done this before so I speak from experience when I say this. If you are leaving the oak natural and just painting the letters black, I would paint the letter with the back side flat on some cardboard so no paint gets on the back. I would then use Titebond III woodworkers glue to adhere them to the oak. What I like to do is lay out the letters on the backboard before gluing. When I have then aligned properly I make witness marks on both the letters and the backboard. Just small enough so you can see them. I usually put on bottom and one side. Now when you take them off and go to glue them you align the witness marks up as you lay the finished letters down in place. You now do not get squeeze out of glue or smears of glue all over the place. I use a real sponge when applying glue for things like this. I do this because it leaves small air pockets for excess glue to seep into and prevent squeeze out After the letters are dry and glue is set I would spray the entire piece letters and backboard with a marine spar varnish. Many brands out there. I would have painted the letters in flat black and let the varnish add any gloss that you choose. As I said i done this and it works well and if not in direct rain and bad weather it should last for a long time and if need be it can easily be touched up. This is my thoughts and my tricks when it comes to this. Good luck.

That came out real nice. All aspects of it from size to planning and finishing. Well done Thanks for showing.

These are very good people to deal with and wood is quality. http://www.dndhardwoodsonline.com/

I do not use a rubber stamp. I have shown what I use a few times here before. It is a wood signature branding iron I had custom made. You can get them many places these days. I use it on most of my projects that it will fit on.

I believe you have to contact Travis being that is the name you signed onto this forum with.

I have done my share of drywall work and have much left to do as I remodel my home. I always use those. I also have used the sanding sponges that work well for detailed sanding spots and small spots. Not sure why you would buy 5 when they do come 2 in a package too. Unless you have alot of sanding to do. i would leave those to sanding sheetrock and use wood sandpaper for sanding projects. http://www.amazon.com/3M-9093DCNA-Drywall-Sanding-Sponge/dp/B00004Z48A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524016494&sr=8-3&keywords=drywall+sanding+pad

Using different colored woods or materials for bases is a good idea and can enhance the look. I use green felt on all my golf related clocks to make look like a putting green. Clocks can make a simple pattern look so much more useful and appeals to more people in my opinion. The themes can be enormous and the sky is the limit when making clocks. Now what time is it I have to go to dinner.