Dan
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Everything posted by Dan
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This is just a decorative knocker that I plan to put on my shop door once I get a door. It's made of walnut and ash. BLO is curing then will finish with poly. I will change it some to eliminate sharp corners to make it easier to rout the edges. This was a fun and fast project.
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Very nice Marg! I made the same one for my first intarsia.
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I was curious on how much it cost to use blue painter's tape. Based on $7 per roll (1.88" x 60 yds.) It costs about 20 cents to cover an 8" x 10" project. I'm not sure what it it would cost to use turpentine on a project but I'm sure it would be less. But, like everything else...it's a preference.
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Hello from Ohio. It is a great hobby and this is a great site.
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Looks good to me too.
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http://www.woodworking-news.com/woodworking-tips/random-vs-sheet-sanders.shtml Here's some good info to help with your question.
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Awesome piece Paul. I call my wife boomerang. Everytime she leaves she keeps coming back.
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Hans, I don't know if it would help, but maybe if you show the store manager what Olson, Flying Dutchman, Advance Machinery, PS Wood, and other blade manufacturers are making the manager may realize that pin-less is the way to go. If that doesn't work, maybe you should be "The" blade distributor in Mexico.
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On one of the forums someone posted photos of a switch plate cover that looks like an old circuit breaker/fuse switch. It was made of wood and goes over an existing light switch. If I find the link I'll post it.
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Ray, I have often considered doing that with some benches. Although I haven't yet done it, I think all you have to do is affix stationary casters to the rear legs on the back side. I would set them about 1/8" or less off the ground when you mount them. When you lift the front of the stand the legs will give way to the casters and you should be able to move the saw easily. I would refrain from lifting by the table. Instead attach a handle to the stand. Some things to think about, if your floor is not very level and you move the saw to a different location you may have to readjust the height of the casters. If you floor is very level I would set the casters 1/16" above the floor. If you have to lift too much on the front of the stand to move it lower the casters some more. In my pea brain is sounds like it will work.
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Absolutely magnificant! Ever detail seems great.
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Thanks for the nice words. Larry, the dimensions are 1/32" x 1-1/2" (about) × 5-1/2".
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Ha ha! Paul, I agree. I'm sure I'll be tited of squirrels soon. Jim, these are 1/32" ply stained walnut and cherry.
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Wife looked at bookmarks and said "What? No owls?" So here are some owls.
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Very cool! I love the way you shaped the wood.
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That looks great.
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That's exactly what I'm going to do. Unfortunately I bought it for the bookmarks so I will be cutting it into 1-1/2 by 6-inch pieces. Maybe there are some more good pieces in the rest of the order. Guess I'll have to look.
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I just received a bunch of Baltic birch ply. The grain is so amazing I hate to cut it up. I just applied some cherry stain.
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Sharp portrait. The colors really make it pop.
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Dan, I stack 10 at a time. It takes 10 minutes to cut and about another ten to sand. Marg, I'll start trapping them and send them to you. I haven't dreamed about them...yet. Maybe that's my problem.
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Jim, I think this is what they are talking about.
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The veneer is too thin. DAMHIK! I had thought about using 1/64" plywood and veneering it but then the expense goes up and I don't want to change my price.
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The first 60 are done. 1/32" Baltic birch ply, stained cherry, cut, and sanded. I had to order more plywood and it should be here tomorrow so I know where I'll be for a few days.
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Nice work. My dad owned two of them. I was too young to drive it though.
