kmmcrafts

Honestly back in the day when I first started sawing I used to hold stacks together with screws.. Drywall screws will drive into wood pretty good without pre-drilling holes.. I used my cordless drill and just used screws.. Nice thing is.. you can back the screws back out and use them again..

In my case I production cut.. so I typically will put several ornaments on one sheet.. I usually do this by using the picture viewer in windows 10 and I crop pattern so it's just a small square around the ornament and save it that way.. Then when I need to print some I go to where the pattern is saved.. I don't open the saved icon.. I right mouse click and hit print.. a pop-up comes up with photo print size options.. I choose the appropriate one and select fit to page if needed ( check box at bottom ) I usually select a quantity of 4 which is the 3.5 x 5 photo size layout.. That will print 4 of them on one sheet.. That is a issue if you only want one ornament though.. In that case I try to make the ornament print at the top and cut the paper in half.. use the other half the next time I need just a half sheet size.. Sometimes I'll print only selecting a quantity of two.. then choose a different ornament and reinsert the paper to print two more on the other end.. This may not be practical for everyone.. But then I have to say.. do you waist a sheet of paper too.. I realize paper is cheaper than the label.. for me before using the labels.. I've always tried to make use of the whole paper.. Also the labels don't work too well for large projects.. I still use plain paper and spray glue etc.. but not very often I use patterns that are larger than a standard sheet of paper so.. the majority of the time it works for me..

I've had issues with the shelf liner sticking if a project has been sitting for several weeks.. and you can use a heat gun with the labels or shelf liner.. For what it's worth.. in a pinch I've heated up a label on a box to remove it so I could use the box to ship out orders in.. I save all the boxes I get stuff sent to me in..so long as they are a nice clean box with no branding or markings on them.. the labels peel right off of a box with the heat gun.. I've not been brave enough to try on wood with several fret cuts in it.. might not peel off as good so I use the liner paper too.. but as I said.. have used heat on the liner stuff and it peels up nicely.. if it's stuck good from sitting a few weeks..

Dremel works well for me on a lot of the holes I drill too.. They just need to make them so you can drill with the 3" forstner bit.. then I'd not need a drill press, LOL I also find that the dremel isn't all that accurate for precise drilling in thick wood.. works great for portrait type of work but the plunge router attachment for the dremel has side to side slop.. you may not notice it with drilling thin stock... but you can drill a whole up to 7 degrees off without even trying to, LOL

Welp, as Ray said.. you can get the stuff fairly cheap depending upon where you search for it at.. Yes pricey at the local office supply store etc.. But there are some really reasonable sources online.. I buy 1000 sheets at a time.. usually once a year.. but that's probably a lot overkill for the average hobbyist.. I recently found this place.. have not yet purchased from them so I do not know how they are to deal with.. But since you was in the business with this stuff you might know better what is a cheaper material etc to select.. They sell only in 100 + quantiles.. and I've seen it for around $12.. Not sure how many pages you get from a spray can of adhesive.. I know I used to go through about 5-6 cans a year.. and the stuff I bought was at least $13 a can.. add in the paper that use print the pattern on.. the cans of glue.. the sticky fingers and thumbs.. the messy overspray that can leaves all over your spraying area.. I know not everyone sees it from the same angle I do.. but as a production cutter.. there is time involved in shaking the can of adhesive.. spray it bla bla bla.. you get the idea.. Print peel and stick is what works for me.. I see it as cheaper than paper when I calculate all the variables into the equation..

I have been pleased with my HF dust collector.. It's got several hours on it these days and still kicking the dust into the bag.. LOL Might buy a drill press from them.. with my coupon it's less than $100 soo that is a factor. The pin nailer I've always wanted one.. but as you said.. having to drag out the air hose and hook things up would be a PIA for me too.. I seen on HD site the battery one.. was hoping DeWalt had something as that is what my battery powered set is.. but I haven't seen one yet.. Might have to go with Paul's idea of finish nails and the hammer, LOL

I agree with Melanie, Though you can hardly go wrong with a small box, basket, or bowl filled with a bag of her fav. chocolate candy.. Just be careful though as the chocolate is known to make your cloths shrink, LOL. A portrait cutting of the two of you.. a homemade wood puzzle piece pendant that yours and hers fit together.. etc etc.. I made the wood coffee mug thing from Steve Goods pattern and filled it with my wife's favorite ( Dove ) chocolate for a Valentines gift several years ago.. I now sets on her desk at work empty of chocolates but full of pens / pencils paper clips etc.. Cut the rings from contracting woods and it was a real nice looking piece..

I don't know the exact ones I buy.. I've used a little of this and that over the years.. so brands etc varies.. I try to buy the ones for allergies.. They aren't exactly cheap but I just reuse them over and over.. I take them outside and tap the filter on the light pole I have in my yard.. most of the loose dust falls off.. Once in a while I will either use the air hose or a vacuum to clean them up better.. I've been using the one I have right now for about 2 years, LOL.. The material looks just about like the same stuff as the outer filter on the ceiling hanging air filtration. I often wonder if one of those 3 or so inch thick furnace filters would work better.. I bet the price of one it crazy.. the one I use is just 1" thick I believe.. and 20 x 20 I just set it at the back of the fan and the suction of the fan holds it in place.. I've heard or seen somewhere where you can get aluminum mesh filters and spray them with something that makes the dust stick but will rinse off with a hose.. They are made much like a cooktop ventilation filters but on a larger scale.. imagine they aren't very cheap.. I try to get mine when they're on sale or something..

I bought a second box fan and a furnace filter set it right on the end of my sanding station / table.. A huge reduction of dust residual is noticed when I go into the shop the next day.. Quite a lot cheaper than one of these.. The downside is I have to take the filter off after every day and tap off all the dust..

Yeah I knew that.. and you're right.. not much out there that is 100% USA made... I've been searching drill presses and there are American companies.. when you really dig into the info you find that it is a American company but produced in China, LOL.. Probably the case with the motor on the Hawk.. I do know the Hawk saw itself is USA made.. Not that it makes it any better considering their customer service.. I'm thinking I'll buy the HF pin nailer.. I've been wanting one for a long time.. and I have a 25% coupon.... might put their drill press in my cart accidently too..

Full sheet shipping labels work better than plain paper and spray glues.. I've been doing the shipping label method for about 6 years now.. still need painters tape or shelf liner.. shipping labels are made to not fall off packages so they also won't fall off the wood.. nor peel off if stuck directly to the wood..

Especially the big 20lb sledge hammer when the other things I buy don't work.. That thing hasn't failed me yet.. though I do worry the head might fly off the handle so I don't swing at the other junk as hard as I'd like, my luck it'd fly off and hit one of my USA made tools.. and bust the hammer head.

I rebuilt one of these saws back in / around 2005.. I still have the saw but haven't used it in years.. I think the part you're referring to is like a rubber washer.. I cannot remember where exactly it goes.. so I'll look my saw over and reply back later.. unless someone beats me to it.. If I remember correctly it didn't seem like I had to take anything off to put this piece in.. and the saw will work without it but it will vibrate pretty good on the high speed setting.. It's only used as a damper

Pretty sure it is licensed.. I made a few of this design a year or so ago.. believe it is the same pattern.. I never sold any as I just made them to give some friends..

This place might have something. http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/page0007.htm

Yeah that is how I've always tighten the chuck as well, was taught that in machine shop in high school.. This drill press I have was a parts machine that the motor run on, had no chuck but I had one from another broke motor drill press and it fit.. I gave $3 for it and have been using it for 12 years.. I was pretty worn and sloppy when I bought it.. but it worked for what I used it for.. The mini chuck I have is pretty off balance and the worn press doesn't help it any.. It even wobbles in my handheld drill.. I think when I buy my new drill press I'll make sure it will hold those tiny number drill bits.. glad I posted because I never thought about that until it was mentioned above..

That is how my stop is.. and after using this one for 12 years.. I've gotten used to just using the table to adjust the depth.. I even have different thickness scraps I use to raise / lower the table to meet the drill bit at the lowest setting so I know how deep to drill my clock holes etc.. so to me.. having a better stop would probably do me no good.. muscle memory would kick in and I'd probably never use the better stop, LOL That is probably why the crank table adjuster appeals to me more so than probably others.. I also have to use the wobbly smaller chuck.. though I found out that there is a certain position to mount that chuck where it's pretty straight on.. so I used some machinist metal dye and drew a line on both the drill press chuck and the mini chuck.. line up the lines and it's good to go, LOL See there are ways to have less than high end tools if you mess around with them enough you can learn all the quirks, and adapt,

I'm going to be needing a new drill press soon.. I notice some have a laser to pinpoint your drill spot.. Anyone have this? Thoughts or comments? Not looking to spend much for a drill press. The old Delta I have is getting really worn and sounds like it may have a bearing going bad, actually been this way for a couple years but getting much worst.... Should probably be expected as I bought it at a tractor parts swap meet about 12 years ago for $2 and it actually looked pretty rough then, LOL.. I never did anything with it other than clean it up a little.. It's just a small 8" Delta.. I really don't need anything any larger but I was thinking maybe getting a 10" one.. I think I'd like the crank for the table height rather than the pinch collar that I'm always unscrewing to move the table.. Other than that I'm not sure.. I guess what I don't know about I don't need, LOL If Grizzly had that small 8" model in stock I'd probably buy that.. looks just like mine.. probably the same thing. But they been back ordered for ever.. I was going to get one last year and they was B/O then.. Thinking about the WEN 10" I don't do precision work so I don't really need to spend $1000 though I'm not opposed to spending a few hundred on a good USA made drill press, but if I have to buy something imported then I'm going cheap.. LOL... American made is always a plus for me if anyone knows of a budget priced one.. I just looked on CL and FB and doesn't seem to be anything but old worn out one just like I have for $75.. LOL

Once a year might depend on a few things.. First off, the quality of blades used.. The OEM ryobi blades were crap.. I found a dealer on eBay to buy better made ( better material ) than the OEM.. and they do last a while. Once a year for blade changing isn't a very descriptive statement.. someone might only run 5 boards through in a year.. and another might run 500 boards a day.. If you run dusty gritty boards though the blades might last long enough to get 5-10 boards through it, LOL but changing the thickness of some already nice clean planed boards might last 2000 boards.. I run my planer quite a lot.. I change my blades about 1 time a year.. but about mid way through the year I flip the blades to the other side ( two sided blades ). While on the subject of blades.. You can get more life from them if you sharpen them.. I got this sharpening jig thing for Christmas a few years ago.. I know can run the same blades for a couple years.. This jig is a bit pricey.. there are videos on youtube to make your own jig using a table saw and cutting slots in a block of wood.. The jig I have is well made and actually clamps the blade in.. Sharpening Jig

I might be interested.. depending on how much it'd cost... I'm not sure how far north you are from me or what shipping it etc. might cost.. My luck the China made saw that I have probably has different bolt pattern, LOL..

I sand before and after with my Bocsh random orbital sander and have never had any issues with breaking ornaments or anything.. I use the dollar store anti slip drawer liner things to sand on and the grip the wood so it doesn't go flying, LOL I turn the sander speed down on small or fragile stuff.. and lightly place the sander onto the projects and just go easy with it.. Everything I make gets sanded before and after cutting.. Look at my website and you'll see all the things I make ( sand ).. some are quite fragile..

There are two bellows but only one is actually used as a bellows.. the other is used to keep the rocker assembly from rattling... I think you should be able to change the ( blower ) functioning one by removing the screws as Wayne said..

Just post a ad online to trade a full black toner for a empty one or two.. That might sound a bit suspicious to someone but who knows you might be able to grab a couple of empty ones for a full one so you can experiment.. Get good enough at it you might be able to run a photo though several times with the different toners and print a color photo.. just print with the magenta and then swap to yellow and run the print again, swap to cyan run it through again etc etc.. It'll be interesting to know if you'll be able to do this.. I'd like a laser printer but like you.. I'd like to be able to print patterns in red.. Inhave a color inkjet printer now but if I only use it for color things.. The ink would be dry by the time I need color.. other than the red patterns, LOL and I print enough patterns a year that it would defeat the purpose of having the laser printer.. I just need a color laser printer..

Very true.. a quality table saw and blade can make very good joints.. I bought a nice $100 ish blade for my cheap table saw and the run out is so bad and the saw was so under powered made for a pretty dangerous and Smokey situation.. Probably cooked that new blade.. LOL so in my case a cheap $25 jointer is cheaper than a better table saw..

I think there is a misunderstanding.. he has a red pattern I believe.. but a laser printer that is black and white.. and wanting to get ink so he could print it a brighter red type color.. At least that is what I got from the topic