kmmcrafts

My cars heat with hot water.. I'm not usually froze unless they haven't warmed up to temp yet.. I think what the fellow I talked with was using obviously a homemade set up with hot water heater and a couple car radiators.. with car electric fans that normally cool the engine.. These fans can be hooked up to a thermostat much like the car has.. when the car gets hot.. they kick on to cool the car engine. Remember I did say " small shop " This wouldn't work for a shop like mine that is 24 x 32.. but a small shed 12 x 10 or something I could see this working quite well to heat.. after all.. the small heater core in a car is only about 1/4 the size of a large radiator that cools the engine.. and they heat up large vans just fine.. For those living in the south where it doesn't get below freezing.. you could pipe out some lines and put them on your roof.. let the sun pre-heat the hot water for the water heater so it's not as costly to heat the water.. As for freezing temps.. just leave the pump on.. moving water does't freeze nearly as easy as standing water does.. This is why they say to leave a small drip of water running in extreme cold temps to help prevent your pipes from freezing..

Not very often I cut only two 1/8" in a stack.. I typically am cutting 4-6 at a time.. On occasion I stack two and that's usually because it's something personalized that I just don't need more than the two.. Anyway.. cutting two I would use a Pegas MG #3.. actually pretty much use the number 3 up to 3/8 - 1/2" stock.. and then a number 5 from 1/2 - 3/4 unless it's a puzzle.. then I use the #3.. It doesn't look too intricate where a very small blade is really needed...

Was talking to a local woodworker that said the safest way to heat a dusty shop is to put in a electric hot water heater and plum it to a radiator with a small pump.. Just thought the idea was interesting.. Not sure how efficient it would be but might be an idea for those with a smaller work shop.. I don't think it'd work too well for my larger shop..

When I first bought my DeWalt.. I read about the poorly made clamps and was told I should have a set of extras on hand.. so i did just that.. Bought a pair of replacements for the day they stripped out... unfortunately I'm not heavy handed on the thumb screws.. I owned that saw and ran it hard.. rebuilt it once and it needed new bearings again when i sold it.. in fact I sold it with all new bearings and sleeves for the new owner.. I never did need those replacement clamps.. in fact 12 years of production cutting.. I never even needed new thumb screws or set screws.. I took them out once in a while and rough up the ends.. a small drop of oil on the threads ( only the threads ) can go a long way on these clamps and screws.. the screw threads get dirty too.. making sure they work nice and smooth will go a long way with them.. sometimes you don't have to be heavy handed to strip out threads.. if they get dirty threads.. that dirt and grit sand them down for you.. Maybe its my mechanical background that helps me understand how to "take care" of equipment and how much stress certain things can take.. Not sure.. but I've never ever worn out a set of blade chucks or thumb screws.. As I said.. a little maintenance can go a long way.... Just my two cents..

I've read from many places and many different people that they are getting blade slippage.. This may or may not be the set screw or thumb screw rather than the actual clamp..

There are apps for your phone if you're doing everything from your phone.. I have no experience with editing videos.. you get the raw cut and even sometimes actual live video depending on where the person is following me from, LOL My one son does editing but he downloads the video to the computer and then edits.. he also compresses it to upload fast.. since we have slower DSL internet.. My other son does it right from his phone with one of the free apps from the app store.. I downloaded an app to do it.. just can't get time to figure out how to edit, LOL

I have the dremel plunge router with a Wen rotary tool.. total cost was around $60 by the time I bought the Wen.. the plunge router, and the small drill chuck for the tool.. and I got all this stuff cheap.. Just my opinion.. and not having any experience with the Seyco drill.. I think I would go with the Seyco drill... UNLESS you already have a rotary tool that'd work in the plunge router.. This is my take on the plunge router set up I have.. The unit is cheap and made of plastic.. there is some side to side play in the plunging action.. that can make you drill holes on several degrees off of a straight 90.. This isn't as much of an issue if you'er just drilling thin stock.. but drilling several stack cuts or thicker material if you're not careful to "try" to make it s close to 90 degrees as possible you could be drilling through where you don't want to be drilling through on the back side of the project.. For a few dollars more.. I think the seyco would be much more accurate.. I use my Dremel set up daily.. but I drill my holes away from the edge enough in case I'm not drilling a good 90 degrees.. I won't use it at all where I want a precise hole such as drilling on a line where I will be doing some veining.. I use my regular drill press for that.. Now... as i said.. I don't know the seyco drill either.. maybe it's not accurate either.. That is just something to think about with these small plastic drills.. if there is any slop when new.. it'll have quite a lot in a year or so.. and any slop will throw you off of a true 90 degrees.. But I will say.. I love the set up for just doing quick drilling where accuracy isn't a huge deal and I use the drill press where I need to be spot on.. Just my 2 cents

It is going to be busy, but make time to rest, don't want to fall asleep at the shows . I hope it's as busy for everyone else as it's been for me.. I've already sold out of a lot of my inventory that I built up over the summer.. but custom orders keep coming in and have hardly any time to "try" to restock some things.. It's not even my busiest time yet..

I don't have much to add... just wanted to say that the video view is pretty good.. I see a lot of people doing videos and they do not show any details of the cutting action and the lines on the pattern.. I use my cell phone to do my videos.. I tape my phone to the top of the lens of my Magnifier light.. Make for tough cutting for me.. but the view is exactly what I see while sawing.. What makes it a bit harder for me is my phone screen is small.. and I'm covering up my magnifier lens with the phone.. so I'm cutting looking through my small phone screen.. instead of my larger 5" lens.. plus I think my phone screen light isn't nearly as bright.. Anyway.. I've had many many other scroll saw people comment on my video angle.. They like seeing the actual action happening.. You have found a way to keep the camera off to the side.. yet show the blade, cutting lines etc.. so great job with that.. Now I've gotta pick on you a bit.. You seem to struggle with putting your own puzzle together.. You puzzle guys should be charging more... after all you not only spend time cutting it.. you gotta spend 5-10 minutes putting it back together,

I'm not a pro when it comes to glue or finishing.. That said.. I've made sawdust glue as Jim says.. My experience with finishing after a glue & sawdust mix has been applied to a small drill hole.. ( I've been known to drill holes in the wrong side of the line a few times LOL ) is the spot is still there.. just filled in and not a hole anymore.. The glue hole always ends up a shade different.. but in many cases just looks like a spot in the wood grain or a small knot or something.. so I never really thought of it as a known mistake or blemish.. just a natural wood grain color change in that small spot.. You'll want to sand it good so you'll sand most of the glue out in the surrounding areas around the blemished spot.. if possible.. I've tried a few different glues with the basic same results.. a glue just isn't going to absorb the finish in the same manor as the natural wood will.. I have very limited experience in doing this.. less than a handful of times.. There may be some special glues or methods that those Pro's use.. I'm just talking about what I have experience which isn't much. But I look forward to reading this topic as I'd like to know more secret repair methods on this glue paste repairs, LOL

I'm quite certain as I said before.. that it's slop in the bearings.. How about you guys try something.. Put the blade in.. apply tension.. release the tension and clamp the blade again and re tension the blade again before you even run the saw at all.. This is my method and I don't get stretch or whatever you want to call it when I do this.. My hands are already there and it's only a second more to re-do the clamping each time you move the blade.. No need for me to run the saw for a few seconds.. This is why I stand behind my theory of the slop in all of the pivot points on this type of saws.. Used to have to do the same thing on my DeWalt.. Never had to do this on any of the 3 Hawks or any of the older saws I've owned that I believe I mentioned in another replay on this thread.. If you look closely at the upper arm as you apply tension to the blade.. you can see it move / pull down.. I'm not saying it's for sure a bearing slop issue.. It may be the upper arm slop issue and it's not coming all the way down to it's resting point until it is forced to when you initially apply the tension.. Whatever it is.. it only seems to be an issue with these Ex and like saws.. If it were a blade issue.. it'd do it on all saws I would think..

I've done both but actually prefer bottom feeding.. Maybe just because that is the way I started out on the scroll saw... I've had top feed capable saws for 13 years.. can do it both ways.. but always gravitate to bottom feeding. It's just habit and in order to top feed I have to make a mental note in my brain to do it.. There is way to many mental notes in there so this slows down the processor... Probably need more memory, ram, and a faster processor in order to be efficient with the mental notes.. Every time I tell my self I'm going to top feed on a project.. I do so on the first hole... maybe the second one.. then the 3rd one I have it already fed and ready to hit that foot switch when the light bulb goes off that I just bottom fed.. Not taking the blade out now to do a redo.. and that's how it all goes down.. Born a bottom feeder I guess..LOL What made me decide to just stick with bottom feeding was the day I kept getting mixed up and lost several new blades.. You see.. I got all confused about what I was doing and unclamp the lower clamp and then instead of raising up the arm to switch to the next spot I reach up and unhook the top blade from the clamp.. the blade falls on the floor with several hundred of other broken or dull blades around my saw.. after a dozen blades.. I realize that I'm wasting new blades with only getting one or two spots cut per blade..

Nah, I working on putting heat in the shop as we speak.. Had a lot of insulation given to me last week.. so I'm putting it up.. once I run out.. that'll be where I build a temporary wall.. wife told me to buy a furnace for the shop for my birthday.. She never said how big of one to get.. sooo there shouldn't be any snow in west anymore in West Michigan once I get this thing going...

Well.. if you mean George got the stand and you got the saw.. I have a great idea.. that would work out well for all of us.. Since you're in Mid Michigan.. I'm in Southern Michigan.. and George is in Northern Indiana.. You'all could just meet in the middle at my house and set up that saw for me..

You need air movement.. and what I mean by that is.. If you only have exhaust fans the air movement will be minimal... You need a inlet fan on one end and a exhaust on the other end or side wall whatever.. But only having exhaust fans without a source of fresh air intake you're not getting enough air movement.. You also would want your intake air to be filtered clean air.. probably best to have a bigger fan for the exhaust and a smaller one for intake.. this would create a small vacuum type action and would probably be more efficient that having two of the same air flow fans.. Also might help to have inlet down low and exhaust up higher.. or the other way around.. You could get one of those fog machines they use at Halloween time and see what works best for air flow for your type / size / shape of the booth.. Air flow is a funny thing.. with certain sized and shaped rooms.. one corner of the booth could have no air flow and everything gets stuck in that one corner while the flow is good throughout the rest of the room.. experimenting with a fog machine would be a great way to get the best set up for your particular room..

I guess first off my question is.. how large of a booth you looking to build? What kind of budget you looking to spend? Coming from an automotive standpoint I've seen a lot of creative paint booths just built out of plastic sheeting.. .. I've also seen and worked in a one million dollar manufactured booth.. with top of the line ventilation with massive filters to catch the pollutants from going into the air stack, baking oven, lighting.. almost the whole thing was a big light, LOL.. Are you just looking for a spot in your shop where there is no sawdust floating around? In the automotive world.. I've seen paint jobs done right out side that turned out better than the in the million dollar booth.. I've seen fibers from clothing fall into a paint job in that booth.. so as for keeping dust etc. out is tricky to do in a place that makes sawdust, LOL.. You could have the best booth in the world.. but if you walk in the booth after scroll sawing to do a little spraying.. well the dust on your clothing just contaminated the booth..

Very nice display.. and beautiful workmanship as always.

Congrats, I believe you'll love that saw.. looking forward to hear and see some projects from this machine soon, LOL

Guessing he meant 1958..

Welcome to the village.. I used to have a 162VS.. not too bad of a little saw.. I don't think it's a "too aggressive issue unless something is wrong with the saw.. Make sure you have your blade in so the teeth are pointing down.. I suspect maybe the blade is in wrong side up... Also a real dull blade may do this as well.. Maybe some more information as to what your trying to cut.. and what blade you're using could give us a better idea of what's going on..

Thank you to all who have served and all currently serving..

Just gotta be thankful for the 11 sales.. they did put a little money in your pocket.. Wishing you better luck for the up coming shows..

Good question... I thought I seen a G4 20" saw on eBay once a few years back.. but if it really was then it's a rare one.. They are known as a G4 but they do have a model number G426... pretty sure the eBay saw said G420.. but this was back in the days before I had much knowledge on the Hawks.. Wish I had taken better note of what it really was.. because honesty all I've been have been 26" saws.. Going to the manuals section on their site, there is only a manual for a G426 and no mention of a 20" saw..BUT... they never was good about updating their manuals etc either... so maybe the ultra 20" saw was in production all the way up until they designed the newest BM series..

The G4 has the lower arms extended out through the angle mechanism so instead of reaching around behind that to insert the blade holder into the arm you can do it right in front.. The blade holders are different.. and the lower arm on the Ultra has two slots where the blade holder will fit into ( front spot is for cutting thin wood or less aggressive of cut.. and the back spot is for thick wood or a more aggressive cut) The G4 has the whole head of the lower arm that is on a threaded cap screw that you can adjust the position variably.. The G4 and the new BM series saws are almost identical.. The biggest real difference is the motor on the BM series went to a better higher torque motor with a different bearing set up there the motor shaft and the connecting rod hooks up to the lower arm.. This bearing and counter weight deal makes for a smoother running saw with the BM series.. otherwise it's basically the same saw.. The redesigned blade holders with the combination of the lower arm positioned out in front of the angle mechanism allows for these saws to be top or bottom feed saws..

I honestly don't believe it is stretching like you all claim.. Find it hard to believe that they stretch for the Ex type saws but not the Hawks and Hegners.. Seems fishy to me.. I still believe it is something to do with the saw design itself.. Again.. not picking on any type of saw in particular.. but I experience this same thing on my EX.. but not on my Hawk.. What gives? different type of saw mechanisms.. I've never really had a blade run hot on the Ex types of saws to the point that they discolor but have on the Hawks.. yet I still had no issues with loosing tension.. so this really makes me believe it's not a blade issue..