kmmcrafts

Yeah my DW788 is steel.. as all the other saws I've owned other than the ryobi I had years ago i think was Aluminum.. Old Deltas.. The old Dremel I had was steel too but I think it was the only model of Dremel that had steel table.. because the older smaller ones had aluminum too,, But anyway.. the majority of saws are steel and non coated.. So that's why I've always said.. why bother.. If kept waxed it don't rust..

Love the cat... thinking I've cut that cat before.. but may have been a different one.. Maybe a dumb question but what's the triangle things?

Awesome work as always.. Glad to see you got back to posting pictures...

Keep mine waxed too...

If you think about it.. why even bother putting a finish on the tables? No finish on DeWalts, Deltas ( new or old ) , Hawks, Hengers? and many other brands.. The only saws I've seen with a coating like that is the Excalibur, Pegas, and Jet's new 18" saw has a black finish.. but the 22" I've seen is not coated.. Save some $$ for the company and leave them uncoated.. makes for a ugly look after a couple days of use.. most the finish was gone on my EX after about the first two days.. I mean the finish looks nice.. but I don't care what finish you put on.. it's going to look bad after 6-12 months anyway.. Someone on one of the FB groups powder coated theirs.. betting it'll be worn off in 6-12 months... unless they don't use it much..

The journey isn't always easy.. but nether is day jobs.. as for health insurance.. you'd be surprised how cheap that really is for self employed.. there is tax breaks for the self employed and small business's.. My wife quit her job last year.. we pay less for health insurance than what she was paying out of her portion plus the deductibles etc. from the insurance that her workplace offered.. and we had a much better insurance plan that was geared towards more of what OUR needs were compared to the 2 generic plans her work offered.. Not saying quit your day job, LOL... Just saying everything... job/career/self employment/ small business etc etc.. isn't always easy.. nor is it for everyone.. what matters most is that people are happy doing what they do.. since work/business etc etc.. is what 90% of what we do in our lives.. don't waist time doing something you hate for your whole life..

Congrats on the promotion.. but I must say.. It sucks to have work interfere with business... why I quit working 20 years ago.. I've been on many different journeys since then from running my own autobody shop to lawn care to selling tractor parts on eBay.. I must say.. this scroll saw / woodworking has been by far the most fulfilling less stress business / work I've done.. Not as big of an income but money isn't everything in life.. so long as I can pay bills and put a little aside..

I like the way the hardware store organizes the small bolts / screws / washers etc.. I think I just need to buy a hardware store... but the ideal one won't move stuff to a different part of the building every 6 months.. I have a mess of a couple drawers in an old desk that I keep stuff in.. problem is I through all small stuff in one drawer and big stuff in another.. I know two years ago I put a certain screw r whatever in there but I can't find it until I make a trip to the hardware.. where I go to that certain isle that is no longer there.. When I finally find what part of the store they moved the stuff too and get it.. when I get home I see the one I was looking for right on top of the big mess of a drawer... I think I need a better system.. LOL

Apparently not... Too bad to because we all enjoy seeing your projects.. and we are all having withdraws from not seeing your projects.. Hopefully you'll get it resolved soon..

Wow, that's a nice step up.. I never did try the arm lifter for my DeWalt.. I used what was called the Jim Dandy easy lift.. which I believe came out before the lifter did.. Don't hear much about the easy lift these days.. maybe he's not selling them anymore.. Have fun making lots of projects and sawdust..

The two screws that hold the upper portion to the lower portion.. they are right on top on either side of where the WEN sits.. Probably not enough tension on the springs but if the screws came all the way out the springs might go flying into space, never to be return.. Mine came loose and made the whole plunge portion very wobbly..

Great patterns, Thank you for sharing them.. Good luck with your show!

I got really mad and then depressed yesterday while drilling holes for a puzzle order I was making I noticed the Dremel plunge router base was getting really sloppy and loose.. Thinking about how I disagreed with JT about the plastic plunge router being more accurate than he was giving it credit for.. While drilling a couple more holes later I noticed one of the screws for the uprights turning on it's own... shut it down.. went to the tool box for a screw driver and tighten the screws up.. goes pretty straight up and down now.. I do see where this set up isn't going to stay super accurate for very long... and really it's not as accurate as i first thought but it is doable... and it taught me that I like the little systems of this style / design without spending a good fortune on one not really knowing what to expect.. Don't think it'd be all that hard to build a nice accurate set up similar out of steel.. Be a lot less time consuming to just buy the plunge router from the same place you bought this.. $150 seems steep.. and it's still not make to be used as a drill press.. but I'm almost certain that it'd last much longer than the plastic $30 Dremel one too..

I read it's good until it goes bad, Not really a time line.. I think it'd make a huge difference in how long it'd last as to how you store it... airtight container etc etc...

That seems like a pretty good deal... I pay more than that for my landline / DSL/ Dish Network and we have a crappy DN package.. and the DSL is not great as you can see.. I do have the 8/1 speed package... mostly because it handles the load better for when all 5 of us are on our devices / computers..

Now that talk sounds like a teen talking tech... LOL I don't find too many folks older than 30 years old that really understands that info.. BTW. For me.. it's the slow internet I have DSL and it's slow.. I have three speed packages to choose from 4/512 , 8/1 or 16/1 Then on top of that.. we are bogged down based on load of their server system.. Unless we pay for a business plan which puts us on a different system than everyone else which supposedly isn't bogged down, LOL.. Got a friend on the business one and only difference is he has a higher speed during the busiest times where mine bogs down.. fortunately the time is typically during a time I don't really have a "Need" for it.. The price of these are crazy for the business one and it really only enhances the speed in a 5-6 hour window... usually when I'm busy with family things anyway. so no real reason for me to upgrade.. I'd do it in a heartbeat if it were getting higher speeds etc.. but since I'm still limited and only enhanced during a 5ish hour window.. It's not worth the extra $20-30 a month to me..

I ran across this a ear or so ago ( I think it was ) and I had issues watching it as Paul said.. tried again yesterday and same deal.. I did make it to around 18-20 minutes before I gave up, LOL then later I came back and it worked great.. maybe the server for his video was over loaded with everyone watching, LOL.. I do agree.. I look for videos rather than books... for one I learn better by seeing it or actually hearing it than the written word.. secondly.. most times you can find a free video.. books cost money and then when you're done either take up space in your bookcase or you have to get rid of it.. LOL It was very informational I enjoyed it a great deal.. thank you for reminding me of this.. since I tried watching a long time ago and gave up.. then since forgot, lol

Hopefully Les bought the right tool or knows what he is getting since he said he ordered one..

Watch the video Ray on the link JT posted. it shows them raising and lowering it with the thumb wheels on the uprights.. The one I linked to is the plunge router base they sell at $152..

I'm not spending that kind of money on a tool that I plan to mis-use.. It's a router base made for routing... not made to use as a drill press EDIT To Add After looking closer at it and also watching the video.. it appears this is a fixed router base.. not a plunge router base.. They do have a plunge router base as well.. https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Routers_and_Bits/Routers/StewMac_Plunge_Router_Base.html At $152 I can buy several Dremel router bases.. LOL

Yeah I read about HD having them right after I ordered mine off eBay, LOL... But then my HD is about 40 mile away too so.. Guessing it was cheaper just to pay a little more for the one I got..

Been buying mine a a local lumber / craft / tool sales place.. where I get a lot of my limber and where many of my tools come from.. It had been $22 a gallon right along.. but I used to always get the quarts because I never used it all that much until they raised the price.. LOL.. I think it's now $32 a gallon.. for the last one I bought.. A gallon goes a long way.. I only use a couple gallon a year.. but then the majority of my finishing is done with the beeswax mix that I make.. and I typically make about 4 batches of that a year too.. .. also make BLO / Mineral spirits and use a gallon of that a year too.. I topcoat the BLO mix with lacquer after a few weeks of drying. but only use it on a handful of certain type of projects.. Anyway.. the Danish oil runs me about $32 a gallon... if I get the quart at the local box stores its about $16-19 so a gallon is a much smarter buy, LOL.. The Quart at the wood place that I get the gallon at I think runs $15. When I first started using the stuff.. a quart was $7 - 8 at the big box stores.. That would have been around 2005 ish

Not sure how JT does it... but I use a throw away aluminum foil pan from the dollar store.. it's just a pan for like baking stuff in.. or.. I sometimes also use the plastic storage containers.. The foil pan is better for larger items though.. but the plastic container one could use the lid and just store the Danish oil in it.. But.. you'd need to use it fairly quick or it'd go bad.. Anyway I use these and just dip the project into the Danish oil.. depending on the wood type as to whether I let it soak up a while or just a quick dip.. I then pull out the project and set it on a pile of paper towels and drip for a few minutes.. then wipe off excess and set on another pile of paper towels... I have a fire pit and any towels that have oil on them.. I run them out and burn them so they won't catch fire... bet that make sense don't it..

Never thought to look in the hole, it appears there are several ways to fix the problem. I just went through my junk drawer and found this washer. I also found a nut to fit on it but I like the washer better as it keeps the knob closer to where it was. The space of the washer prevents it from locking the plunger part and allows me to tighten the knob down so it won’t spin freely. If I ever want to use the locking feature I just take the knob off and remove the washer.

Well then you'll lose it No seriously.. speaking for myself.. I use those knobs to hold and pull / push down on to drill the holes and use to hold the plunge router to move from one spot to the next.. I won't loose the knob.. but it has came off while holding the unit and made me drop it.. lucky for me it was only a couple inches off the bench.. so it wasn't a damaging drop.. I thought of all people that'd understand this it'd be you since you have so much router experience.. I'm not sure how to explain it any further.. maybe regular plunge routers aren't designed in this way.. since I've never used a real router I don't know.. Looking at this picture of my system.. The plunge router base has those two knobs.. one side is threaded in and tight.. the other one if you thread it all the way in and lock the knob tight prevents you from moving the plunging action.. so it locks it into a fixed base type router at a certain height. thus you cannot use as a drill press because it's locked into position and won't plunge.. When using the thing you hold those knobs and push the base downward to drill holes.. but one side the knob is loose and while handling it and over time that knob gets spun out and will fall off in your hand.. putting that nut on there allows you to tighten the knob down tight without locking the plunging action so the knob doesn't back out and fall off in your hand while using the machine.