kmmcrafts

Well, those little vacuums aren't designed for this type of use.. Probably decent for the hobby user but in a commercial type setting save up and buy something that'll last or has a good warranty.. I knew going into one of these that would be the case.. They last just about the life of a Excalibur scroll saw.. as the first vacuum burnt up shortly after I rebuilt the saw the first time.. The saw is getting to that point again and last night out cutting some orders and the vacuum stopped working.. same deal.. motor locked up. Good thing I've been buying some spare vacuums off eBay.. I have 2 spares that were new in box returns etc.. and got them cheap.. like $15 for one and $25 for the other. Meanwhile I'm not sure how much more scrolling I'll continue doing as much of my stuff is turning over to laser work.. not sure I want to invest $500 into a festool or like vacuum if I'm cutting back on the scroll work anyway. Maybe just keep watching eBay for those little Metro Vac 500 vacuums to keep a spare around. LOL

forget they have these, I have a heavy duty metal one that I got at a shopping cart factory I worked at when I was a kid.. have my 5hp 60 gallon tank air compressor on it so I can spin it around to check the oil etc easier.

The best book is right here.. you come to the right place. Most books are written based off one person's interview or opinion.. Here you ask the question of which blade to use you'll get 40 different answers to choose from based on each person's sawing style and the projects they make. We can leave you way more confused than you were before.. I bet if you ask a blade seller what the most popular sold blade size and style is that could be a good start for a newbie.. I know I have about 50 different blade styles and sized in my shop but I mainly only use two different sizes of the same style for most all the projects I throw at my saw.. I would bet many others are the same way.. As has been mentioned.. sample packs is really the best place to start and then follow up with questions here when needed..

The pattern is still there in the link that Witchman posted.. scroll near the bottom and the download button is there.. I just downloaded it myself..

I know RBI Hawk used to sell a drip system for cutting glass and ceramic etc.. I'm not sure they offer that any more. I think Hegner sells a system still too.. not sure if these systems would work on other saws but the biggest concern I'd have is getting all that into the motor on some saws and then other saws have bearings etc exposed at the front.

Any ideas on how to make something like this out of wood. I was asked to make this but with a Salmon fish instead.. They're wanting it to be 11 x 16 ish so it's not something I could do on the laser.. could on the CNC I suppose but honestly think I'd rather scroll it out of some thin plywood. Photo shown is a printed canvas rather than wood. Years ago at a craft show I seen where they made photo things that went into a frame.. but nothing like this. I'd certainly need help with pattern on this.. Probably wouldn't attempt it if it wasn't going to be a gift for family.. but if I find a simple way to do it maybe it'll be a new product to offer, LOL

I used the scroll saw on these... some things are just faster with the scroll saw.. now if I knew how to use the CNC really well.. it might be faster but it'd probably take me 4 hours to figure out the best method to CNC them and it only took about 1.5 hours to saw them.

Custom order, This customer comes every year to me to make a different word every year for Christmas.. This years word was enough.. I guess they pass out the smaller ones to have the family or class whoever they're for place at home on a shelf or dresser and they go through the year with keeping the word in mind.. I'm not certain what they do exactly.. They've been a yearly returning customer since 2011.. Back then I really didn't want the job because they needed them by Christmas and only gave me like a few days to get the order made and in the mail.. specifically wanted pine and no finish because they wanted them fast... so I put what I thought was a steep price ($250) on it and they took it.. They started out with wanting only 16 small ones.. growing family now making 25.. I was the only person on Etsy they could find to do it within a short amount of time. The previous person doing them had abruptly stopped working for some reason and they scrambled to find someone.. which was me. Note: the Share word is one from 5 years ago and somehow was damaged so they wanted a replacement for that one.. so that is why there is a oddball in the mix, LOL

Yes, I looked at it from a cost per amp hour too and the 5-6 amp hour were the best deal looking at it that way.. Just to run a drill and flashlight and weight being a concern I went with a 2 amp hour. I don't want to hang a heavy drill off my belt and pull my pants off while trying to work is my biggest weight on the drill concern. It's not that I'm a weakling as I regularly use my sons 1" Milwaukee impact with 12 amp hour battery that weighs more than 4 of my drills.. but I'm not up in an attic, or on the roof with it hanging off my belt either..

I think I'm going to go with a 2 amp hour battery I found new in package for $28 free shipping.. The two older batteries work quite a long time in the flashlight which I use quite a lot too like every night. The one that came with my drill was only 1.3 amp hour so this is a bit bigger and probably better than what I have when it was new.. doubtful the weight is much more.

Was wondering about the weight of them and what differences they were, I did see several different battery types and was specifically trying to look at the standard 20V max which is what came with my drill. I wasn't sure if they were all interchangeable or not so thank you for clearing some of this up for me.

That's what I've been considering doing... I have finally found some more reasonable priced batteries for the DeWalt now that I've spent hours looking. I think the issue with dewalt is so many options.. Most batteries I've been seeing in my searches have been the bigger 5 amp hour or bigger.. I don't need that much battery for a drill I don't really use a lot.. The ones I have are only 1.3 amp hour and when new it lasted a good while and I used it a lot more back then. Last summer while building some projects that I used 3" deck screws on I could only put about 20 screws in and the battery was dead.. lucky I have two batteries so I just keep swapping them out and could get a job done okay still.. but I know I'm going to need to replace the batteries or get a new drill. Not really wanting the bigger batteries either as the larger they are the heavier the drill gets too. Okay for most of my uses but it could be tiring on a bigger job.. was amazed at how much heavier the drill was with the HF 5 amp hour battery on it with the adapter. Adapter is just a lightweight piece of plastic so it was all that bigger battery that made the difference

I'm in need of some new batteries.. it seems like my batteries are dying out very quickly.. as I would kind of expect for a 12 year old battery to do. I used to be lucky to get a year or slightly more out of the old Nicad batteries so when DeWalt came out with the 20V max lithium I bought a new drill.. think this was around 2011 - 12 ish.. Used to be some places that rebuilt the battery packs, is that still a thing and has anyone had it done? if so was it worth it? Next thing is, I've seen some offbranded "for DeWalt" batteries on eBay. Anyone have any experience with them? Anyplace a good place to order or go to to get a decent deal on these I'm all ears.. and welcome your thoughts on this. So far from what I'm seeing, the batteries are costing more than I paid for the drill with flashlight and two batteries back in the day.. also costing way more than the HF Bauer drill with batteries, plus I already have 3 of their batteries for other tools I have from them. Not sure if it's worth spending $100 + on batteries for the only DeWalt cordless tool I have.. I did buy an adapter so i could use the Bauer 20V batteries with my DeWalt drill.. been there done that and while it does work, the connection can get jarred around while using it and make the drill stop until I fiddle with the adapter / battery and that concerns me with burning something up with having it have a loose connection is not very good for neither the tool or battery. Maybe there is a better quality adapter out there?

Thanks everyone for your comments. I had to run some errands this morning and coming to a local hardware store I thought I'd swing in there real quick and see what they had.. $8 for a pair of them and they worked great.. I was worried about the stem length as mine that come of the vac seemed like they was pretty long compared to the ones I seen at the hardware but they worked great. @rjweb I want to do just that and put on some off-road tires so I can take it out in my driveway and vacuum the mudpuddles away.... No really those little tires in my gravel drive don't go very well and probably why they got torn up.. I like to vac the cars out and inside the shop it's hard to be able to see well enough with overhead lights so vacuuming out in the driveway just makes it easier.. Except it doesn't roll all that well.. so yeah I intend to make some sort of platform.. Come to think of it.. I have a old push mower that the motor crapped out on.. take the handle off it and mount the vac on top of the deck.. those bigger wheels would roll easier. I'm getting some real redneck hillbilly ideas now..

I like them both! well done..

Anyone know anything about the caster wheels with stems? LOL.. Broke a wheel on the front of my shop vac last spring and it rolled okay with just the one front wheel on the other side so i never looked into repairing it. Now the other side broke a couple weeks ago and I finally looked up the model of the vac to order a set of wheels only to find it's NLA. Obsolete. I came up with a part number and searched that but no luck finding them. I'm assuming they didn't make this wheel anything special and one should be able to order something somewhere by the wheel size and stem size but I so far am coming up empty. I know this vac is probably close to 15 - 20 years old.. Even if I could find a 2" tall wheel and drill out the stem bracket rivet and bolt the wheel in place.. my brackets are fine but the plastic wheel on one side broke in half and the one that just broke had worn the center out completely.. must have a couple hundred thousand miles on it.. I know I roll it around the shop a lot but wow.. the whole center is gone, LOL A 2" rubber wheel and using a bolt and nut through it for the axle would work.. but it's be nice just to order something that would pop right on too. Suppose I could make a wooden wheel LOL.. but worried about starting a fire as much as I must be rolling this thing around the shop, LOL. The part number for the wheel I am looking for is SV-6772200 It's a long shot but maybe someone here has info or experience with these caster wheels and knows a source. I did find a set of 4 at this place but reviews that I seen say not to order from here as they just take your money and you get nothing.. with all other sources being out of stock.. I'm guessing that'd be what would happen to me.. unless someone here really knows this place is a legit place I'm not ordering, LOL https://www.chicagoshopusa.com/4209296-Set-of-4-of-6772200-Shop-Vac-Caster_p_17558.html

I cut a lot of Cherry, Maple, Oak, and Walnut as well as moth other hardwoods in 3/4" thickness for my clocks I make.. and I've always used a #3 or #5 blade.. I like the Pegas MGT blades or I used to use a lot of the FD Ultra Reverse.. however now days that I've learned more along my scrolling journey probably a skip tooth would be better than the Ultra Reverse if using FD brand blades. Those Pegas MGT blades have worked wonders on most everything I've thrown at them and I only buy the #3 and #5 sizes.. and cut everything from 1/8" - 1" with them.. but on occasion I use smaller blades but in the smaller sizes I like the FD brand better than Pegas.. That's just what I like though.. everyone has their own comfort / skill level. Blades are subjective to one's saw set-up and how fast / slow etc. they're comfortable cutting at so I always like to make this statement because I could suggest my go to blade but you may hate it.. as you can already see.. some have mentioned a #1 blade.. They have way more patients than I do.. Now not saying I'd never use a #1 on 1" as I have for special veining etc.. but I'm not interested in cutting out a whole bowl from hardwood with a #1 blade.. Not sure what type of puzzles you're talking about.. but since you mentioned 3/4" wood I assume you're not talking about gluing a picture to a 1/4" piece of plywood and making a puzzle from the picture.. Most the 3/4" puzzles I make I cut with a #3 MGT blade..

12 years ago I bought a set of these.. I did use a couple of them but they were not great.. I had a special project I was working on that needed inside sanding or at least I thought that was the best way to do inlay work at that time.. this was before I knew out to bevel inlay so I was sanding things to make them fit. Anyway they did work for the purpose I bought them for at the time.. however they didn't last too long. and they were a struggle to fit into the saws blade chucks. I had a Dremel 1800 saw at that time. As others have said, the right blade and know how will result in these being basically useless.. and also as mentioned, I've made a few of my own like the others have stated using sandpaper and old blades.. those homemade ones actually worked way better as they was thin strips as the purchased ones were about 1/4" if memory serves correct.

Most tools I've purchased from HF was a tool that was something I felt I wouldn't use much and not going to pay top brand tool prices for a one time or very few times use.. Years ago I bought a sawzall to cut some 4" PVC sewer pipes for a job I was doing. I had to take the tool back to HF 4 times and this job was a really small job that I should have used a hand saw on but I didn't.. Their tools have come a long way from back in those days.. Being into mechanic things etc I follow some mechanics on social sites. I had to search out these guys and hoped I'd find them on YouTube so I could share the video. I don't think the video is from the actual guy making them but rather maybe it's someone else posting their videos.. or they have a different name on YouTube.. either way.. this is just hand tools but HF tools outperformed Snap-On in the test these guys put them through. Ray @OCtoolguy might like to see since he was a tool sales guy for several years and probably knows way more about tools and tool quality than many of us. There are several other mechanics doing these same test if you search for Icon vrs. Snap-On Etc. Pretty interesting to see this kind of testing. I might have two Hawks, a Hegner and a Excalibur scroll saw in my shop and most everything else is DeWalt.. I always push for used higher end saws because of the cost and quality.. Just because something is new does not make it better and I can say that from first hand experience with the Hawk saws.. BTW. I have less money in all the saws I've owned than I do in the one brand new Hawk I bought.. and out of then.. the new Hawk is probably my least favorite.. It's still a very nice saw but the quality isn't there like the older ones. It's not quite as smooth as the older ones were. Let's not forget there could be two types of tool snobs.. one loves high end tools and the other loves the cheapest tool that does the job.. at the end of the day it doesn't affect me one bit which one category one chooses.. I have both high end and cheap tools and most have done me well for the purpose in which I bought them for. The only memorable real disappointment in a tool I ever recall is the sawzall I purchased years ago.. and HF has really upped the quality since back then.

Congratulations on the new saw.. I hope to see some of the projects you make with it. I was at my local HF store not to long ago and check that saw out.. I think it'll be a great saw for most folks and yeah they are a hard to beat price. I've had really good luck with all the Bauer brand tools I've bought so far.. IF I were looking to get another saw I'd consider trying one of these.. My local HF is very good about returns and exchanges if there were a problem..

Welcome to the Village! Guess I can't really add to what the others have already said

Depends on the sales person as to what the term "sealed bearings" means.. I remember when the Pegas first came out and the guy that used to work for the magazine site got a job with Grobet USA and he was pushing the term pretty hard that the Pegas was different than the Excalibur, King, and Seyco saws because it was built better due to bigger and sealed bearings.. Now don't get me wrong, I've not taken a Pegas apart to see with my own eyes... but when the saw was made in the same facility as all the others I questioned his statement and looked up the parts in the manuals.. They are all the same bearing part numbers.. so I called him out on it.. I guess a seal bearing can mean that the saw itself has covers over all the bearings and parts.. so basically all saws today have sealed bearings as most are completely enclosed, you know all the plastic garbage in the way to actually get to the bearings.. While the saws do have "A" single sealed bearing the rest are open needle type bearings. They (Pegas) claims to have made the one main bearing that takes all the beating inside the saw much bigger and heavier bearing.. However the part numbers are all the same.. SO, they either need to update the parts list in the manuals or quit lying to the potential customers.. Most people don't care but I'd be on fire with them for false advertising if I bought a saw based on the premise that it is better made than the other that is slightly cheaper.. Funny thing is.. you don't seem to see this advertised from Pegas and the dealer's about this so called larger bearing anymore..

Never thought about using a drill bit in the hole like that.. I've had this happen before and run a couple wood screws into scrap areas then remove them and put the screws back in the box when finished. Haven't had this issue since I started using pin nails to hold the stacks..

Nice video, I had a very similar thought on the idea behind that stick to release the arm.. I don't have one of these saws but this was the first thought that came to mind when I looked at the one on display at my local HF store. As for the bearing grease, I could be wrong but I always thought the bearing manufacture applied the grease to the bearings.. that's not to say that the assembler couldn't add more if needed but I would think this is not so much a DeWalt issue as it is their supplier for the bearing, That said.. All of these saws I've taken apart have had very little grease in them.. which is probably okay in many machine situations.. but the biggest issue I feel is the fact that the fine sawdust can collect around the bearing and soak up any of the moisture out of what little grease there is.. then you get a dried crusty hard compound that doesn't lubricate at all.. This goes for any of these bearings that are not a sealed ball bearing type bearing.. the way the saw is designed I also don't really see how any other type bearing would work either so they probably just figure they'll sell parts or new saws.. in a few years.. The design of these saws make a wonderful cutting scroll saw and very smooth running... until they're not, LOL.. It's been said before that the reason these saws have all the covers and everything is enclosed is because of the lack of sealed bearings. I'd say it sure helps to keep dust out of the bearings but also a bit more work to oil / replace them too.

Those old Deltas are built like a tank.. Parts for most of them are obsolete and they are not the most user friendly saw out there for sure, but they'll get the job done..