kmmcrafts

You might run into problems with dipping the "laser" engraved part.. If you're able to take that lower engraved part off I would do so before dipping. I found that laser engraving and danish oil don't always mix well with projects.. The burn residue is sort of an fine dark ash and can run in the dipping method of finishing.. In my case some will and some don't so you might get lucky in that it doesn't or you might not.. Most anything I used to do was dipped in Danish oil but after acquiring my lasers I started using lacquer.. it dries fast and you really don't have to sand in between coats as the solvents are potent enough to sort of melt into the previous coat so long as it's not fully cured like 60 days or more.. You can spray really light coats into the hard to get to areas first and then have at it with the rest once you get the coverage you need in the tight spots..

Yeah that's not supposed to be like that. You might be able to loosen up the bolts on the table top and center the table top to the blade and then snug it back up... Had to do this on a couple different saws I've had over the years.. but never had one off quite that far.

Right, that is how it is supposed to be done.. in theory you shouldn't need to do this every single time you change a blade unless you're changing to a different size blade, But if you use Pegas brand blades they aren't always consistently the same length.. They are my favorite blade but they are a little hassle when using a Hawk or Hegner type saw because the way the tension system works on these.. Blade thickness changes from one blade to another when jumping into size and style of blade.. This is why Hegner has the three different sized blade holder / chucks.. My saw came with ( I'm guessing ) the larger sized chucks.. I can clamp a #5 blade okay but anything smaller slips out of the lower chuck. I have the quick clamp on the upper arm and that one isn't an issue.. I find that Pegas brand blades are also thinner than many of the other brands when comparing sizes.. (ie a number 5 Pegas is like halfway in-between a #3 and #5 in other brands of blades.. I can get a #3 Flying Dutchman or Olsen blade to hold in the blade chuck too.. but my go to blade is the Pegas.. Usually a #3 or #5 is the only size blades I use for flat blades and #2/0 or #1 when using spirals.

Since I also have a used Hegner and we are talking blade holders.. Probably just like the original poster here... I have no clue what size blade holders I have with my Hegner... The extra blades I got with the saw look more like cut down bandsaw blades. Wouldn't the experience be quite frustrating to a newbie if the blade holder is the large one and the newbie is trying to use like a 2/0 blade.. I know one of the reasons I haven't used my Hegner much is I can't seem to keep the blade clamped into the holder very well.. I've even cranked down the pinch bolt on one of the holders so tight that it snapped the bolt off.. Very frustrating to me as a seasoned scroller so I cannot imagine the frustration of a newbie scroller trying to learn.. SO, with that all said... I recommend finding out what size holder you have and what size blade you're planning to use to save yourself some aggravation. I know for myself that I need some new holders.. and I also know that you can use the middle sized holder for a step up or down in size of blades but I also know that you cannot jump several sizes without issues.. so keep that in mind. I think the new hegner comes with the middle sized holder.. I do not remember the size numbers for the sized blades but I have looked it up in either the manual or on advancedmachinery.com website and looked up to buy blade holders.. I believe the description told what blade size numbers the said holders would use.. I need to buy some myself because I believe I have large sized holders and I need the middle sized ones.

I hadn't seen him on here in a long time.. I bought my Excalibur saw stand from him as he mounted his on a bench or homemade stand. He was a very nice person and always willing to help. He will be missed. Prayers to the family. RIP Wayne

Merry Christmas to all the village friends.

I would be able to ship to Canada but our northern friends may not like the shipping cost.. I think for the cheapest mailing I can do is like around $15 U.S. for up to I think 5 or 6oz package.. I wouldn't do them in the cards like Steve does I don't think because you're just paying shipping on scrap wood. I imagine there could be quite a few little 1" tokens that could ship for that 6oz. package.. Not to take away from what is supporting Steve but if anyone is having issues getting them from him I'd be willing to help make up a batch of them..

IF you're looking for the tokens I could probably laser those from some BBply if you have a design made up or can get someone to design what you want.. I'm assuming you're talking about the little 1" diameter circles with your logo engraved on them? Pretty sure Steve was doing those on a laser. I've been meaning to make up a design for my things and do the same thing. Heck if I can get my hands on some 1/8" cherry or other types of ply I could make them from anything 1/8" or less thick. I'm not big on doing designing work but if you get a SVG type file I can make them.

Did just the plastic flex hose break or did the metal part right at the saw break? If just the plastic line those come apart and you can take out the bad links and reconnect it.. Yes it will be shorter but this saw is much like the Dewalt I had and they come with pretty long flex line when new.. I had this happen a few times on my DeWalt.. They make a special plier tool to help take apart and put back together.. I never needed them as they pull apart not too bad.. putting them back on can be a struggle though.. It helps a lot if you can heat them up in some really hot water for a few minutes to make the plastic a bit more flexible add a drop of soap to help it slide together..

I think adding some color will enhance the very well scrolled piece.. Seems many people outside of woodworkers don't care as much for the plain ol wood grain and textures like many of the people that work with wood do.. I used to have a hard time adding color, but now that I have done some paint work onto my scroll sawn stuff I actually think it enhances the piece.. so that said I'd go for it..

Glad it's going well for you and you're happy with the Bauer... Good to hear of those that have bought them to have been happy with their purchase. Not knowing what type of clock pattern you mean? Wall hang clock, desk clock, victorian fretwork style clocks etc.. there are a lot of different patterns for clocks.. I'm sure there is probably some right her on this site in the pattern section.. Also look up Steve Good.. he has quite a few clock patterns. Sheila Landry, Sey Mey scrollsawartist, There are also many clock pattern books out there. Since you're in Michigan if you're ever near Charlotte check out LLJohnson lumber.. They have a wide selection of different lumber and plywood.. they sell tools and have a library of the scroll saw books and many other woodworking books of all kinds. What ladies you watching? I assume on YouTube? There is a lot of good videos out there to watch.. some better than others but I almost always learn something from them.. even after scrolling for years there is someone doing something a different or easier way..

I have family is San Antonio and Nixon.. I'd love to visit more often but I really couldn't move there as I'd sure miss the cold and snow.. But then again.. I never seen so many old rust free cars and trucks.. When I think about it that way Texas is right up my alley.. Then I think about all the scorpions, tranchulas, and the huge rattlesnakes, and copperheads at my father-in-laws ranch.. I remember that I really do like the cold and snow.. Oh, don't stand on any ant hills.. Those things will set you on fire... Yep, definitely like this snow and cold..

Now all you need to do is flip them over and cut with the other end to get your moneys worth from them..

Oak is the worst.. I do a fair amount of CNC carving signs where I have to paint the carved text or image.. What I do is cover it with 3-4 coats of lacquer or whatever the final top coat will be.. ( usually Lacquer ).. I then CNC route the sign with masking on ( Oramask ) and once carved I go back and do 3-4 coats of clear again before painting.. Being very careful in trying to not get paint on any surface that isn't supposed to have paint on it, LOL. Once painting is done I use my sander and sand it all down to remove any imperfections and then I re clear everything with another coat or two. Yes it's a lot of paint and a lot of work.. this is why I don't do a whole lot of CNC carving. You need to have a good seal of the wood grain, especially with Oak.. Just a few samples of painted wood I have done. I put a lot of coats on those oak cross bases when I make those.. Other things I try to stay away from oak..

I've had great results from the cheap paints as far as brushing them on.. and I think they'd do well with spraying too. My problem with them is using them in the markers.. I'm not sure what I could dilute them with to make it thin enough to "flow" well in the markers yet do good coverage onto the wood without "lifting the grain". I watched a video on YouTube where they diluted it with distilled water.. that's what I've been doing and it works "okay" at first but then the water must evaporate or something and before I know it the markers are clogged up. I need to measure how much water to add too as one time I do it it's perfect and the next it's too watered down and messes with the wood grain. I'm not sure what the paint is in the Posca markers but it covers really well and what I mix up is always hit or miss and only works like the day I mix it.. next time I pick it up it's not flowing well etc. What does one use to reduce if anyone knows? The cheap stuff I buy is water based.. the markers are also water based. I don't necessarily care if they're water base or not.. just like a good flowing paint that works well in refilling the markers so they'll work good like the original paint does that comes in the markers.. gotta be something out there, LOL.. meanwhile I'll keep experimenting with them.. I'll find something that works sooner or later.

I actually prefer 3M45 instead of the 77.. Best of all if a pattern will fit on a standard 8.5 x 11 paper then I prefer to print pattern on a full sheet shipping label.. Then it's just peel and stick to my tape or shelf liner covered board. No spray glue mess and no more clogged nozzles etc.

I believe the Posca markers are water based paints.. I know the cheap paints I was getting is water based. There is another brand markers I buy at sams club that are alcohol based I think.. they work well too. Another thing that can help reduce grain bleed etc. and helps limit soaking up a lot of paint is to put a coat of your favorite clear on first if you can. The coat of paint first also helps preserve the tips on the markers if you ever try the paint markers.. I buy both very fine, fine and also larger tipped markers.. the larger ones work well for large coverage areas.. You can also just buy empty markers on Amazon and make your own paint pens as well as replacement nibs / tips etc. Lots of videos on YouTube about refilling and the empty markers etc.. I need to research on the quality paints myself.. I want to find better paints than the stuff Walmart is selling.. and also reducing it so it flows good through the marker pumps etc.. Stuff from Walmart either won't flow well or doesn't cover well.. not really a great paint compared to what comes in the markers when new.. but I'm going to find something as good soon hopefully.

I used to hate when people painted wood.. now I do a fair amount of painting, LOL.. My experience has been.. you get what you pay for when buying the brushes.. I have some that cost quite a lot for just a small brush but wow does it do a wonderful job laying down the paint. I cannot remember the brand name off the top of my head but they were bought at Michaels I think.. and were some of the more pricey ones they had.. I'm currently learning that the paint quality also makes a huge difference.. That all said, not knowing how much painting your trying to cover.. I also found that I like paint markers better for doing fine detail work. Posca brand markers have done pretty well for me.. when the ink gets used up I learned they unscrew ( left hand threads ) and you can mix up your own paints to refill them.. this is the part where I'm learning about quality paints, LOL.. Many of them work great at first but if they sit for long the paint dries up.. and also coverage is much different from cheaper paints.. I'm looking to get some better acrylic paint brands and see what works best in these markers.

The 3M77 is widely used in the automotive industry to glue labels on cars and also in the body shop we used to use it on the back of the sanding sheets to stick them to the sanding pads of our sanders.. This was back many years ago before self adhesive sanding papers became popular. I have tried many other brands etc.. and had success with them all for patterns.. however some of the brands required the spray to be very well sprayed and still wet when applied and others worked better when they were dried a little.. Also some cans need to be shaken up good and others really don't matter if shook up or not..

I think Navy is also my most sold one.. Air Force is very close as well and maybe the top one. Done a fair amount of the Coast Guard too.. been asked many times for Marines but I've never made or sold one. They are not on the site because they're all sold out.. This time of year I take anything sold out offline then after the busy holidays I put them back up as made to order.. then over the course of the year I make inventory and put them back as in stock ready to ship. I'm sold out on about 150 items currently.

Yeah I have those patterns but something about them just didn't sit as well as the ones Sylvia ( The Saw Dust Mistress ) did, But she never did one for the Marines.. Remember Sylvia from the old MSN groups? She was quite the designer and made thousands of patterns for free on those groups back in the day. Sold a lot of those military clocks back in the day.. still get asked now and then for one but I no longer put them up on etsy.. since they started having AI scan the site for copyright / trademark stuff any words you use to describe something that could be a issue flags your item.. even if you're not violating anything they flag it and then you have to go through a whole appeals thing to get it back online.. a week later it's flagged again, LOL More hassle than it's worth even if I was a licensed seller I would be having to fight that all the time. Maybe they made the system smarter now and it remembers your listing isn't violating anything and skips it.. but still not worth it as every new listing you put up you'd have to go through the stupid process..

I found it.. not sure why I didn't notice the search function on his site before now.. but that brought it up.. Okay that's the one I'm going to make.

I seen an image of the dog with stars on it.. Thought it looked like a pattern Scott would have but I couldn't find it.. Maybe I need to message Scott. I even looked on wooden teddy bear and there were some patterns there for the other military but I didn't see the Marines one. Do you know if Scott has that puzzle pattern?

Yeah there is.. also on all the other branches.. but it's mostly for the logo.. I just didn't know if there was like some generic type thing that didn't have the logo.

Anyone know of a pattern for a small desk style clock? Or a pattern that could easily be made into a clock. Guy at my local Post Office asked me what I make since I'm in there everyday dropping off packages.. so we got to talking and he asked if I had anything Marine Corps. I thought I did but nope, I have Army, Air Force, Navy, Coast Guard etc.. but nothing for Marines. I've done a little google searching but not finding much. Heading over to Steve Good's catalog to search right now.. But thought I'd ask here.. I'm sure there is something out there..