kmmcrafts

I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all.. The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Glad you got it all back up and running without need for taking it apart etc. Several years ago my saw had started working harder than it should and the spray lube really fixed it and made it work so smoothly that now I just spray the moving parts every month or so.. amazing how much smoother things work when they're slick with some spray lube. As I said in your other post.. I feel like Pegas should mention this in their manuals etc.. as not everyone is mechanical incline and wouldn't know that it's working harder than it should until they break the thing or make the spring work much harder making it weaker.. I've got almost 600 hours on my saw and have never replaced any parts in the chucks.. not even the thumb screws.. I spray the threads of the screws every now and then too.. Just gotta be careful not to get any on the tips where they pinch the blade and when you see how smooth the threads work you get way more tightening power so need to be careful not to over tighten them.. when the threads are stiff and gritty feeling it takes more clamping power to tighten them to the same torque and it's only because of the threads binding instead of working slick and smoothly. Some people say I over maintain but I just rather have my stuff working smoothly and not broke down..

You have me confused now.. LOL.. The spring is not directly under the white tension lever.. it's in a slot in the chuck head below the lever yes but not directly under it.. You can visibly see it in your photo you posted.. You can't take it out until you pull the pin as the pin goes through the rod that is part of the sliding part.. as you place tension on the blade the sliding part moves upward to pull up on the blade via the white lever. You can sort of see the pin going through the rod in this photo of yours that I marked everything out in color.

Well I just replied and it didn't show up so I'll try again here. Put the white lever into the tension position and then at the front of the chuck push up on the lower sliding piece and that will give you access to the small pin that holds the lever on. The pin is not really a tight press fit pin as I moved it about half way out with just a flimsy old saw blade.. but a small drill bit would probably work better. Also I believe the metal bushing insert into the lever is not tight fitting either so be sure not to let it fall out while working to replace the spring. To give yourself a extra hand you could probably push up on the sliding piece and tape it in place maybe.. I think once you get the pin out the white lever will just pull up and out of the chuck. Then you drop the sliding part back down to get the spring out and new one in. Then just put the lever back up there and replace that small pin. Should be very simple so long as the parts don't go MIA on you, LOL Here is a couple more photos.. two shows the side view where the pin it.. one shows the pin slightly hidden which is why you have to push up on the sliding part to actually get it up high enough to access that pin. Hope this helps

I've never taken one of these apart "yet".. but if I had to guess how it comes apart I'd think you'd have to take the top plastic lever off the parts under that lever probably comes off the top to allow the post and the sliding portion to drop out of the bottom. Probably just lower it enough to get the old spring out and the new in.. then slide it back up and hook up the top portion levers pins etc. Looks like some small parts so be cautious not to drop anything, lol I could be all wrong on this.. as I said, I've never took one apart and only guessing based on what Denny said and looking at the pictures. Seems like this would maybe come with some written instruction or diagram etc.. Maybe there is a YouTube video showing the process?

I’m not sure I’m understanding your question so I just took a couple pictures of my clamp in case it might help you. From what I can tell it looks like the spring just sets in that slot and the rod goes through it. Not sure if that’s what you’re asking though. One photo with lever in the released position and the other in a tension position.

Hmm, I've never really looked over my clamps or how they are assembled or work, I know they have parts for these but I've never had to replace anything yet. I do keep mine lubed good with some dry spray lube so they're always working as smoothly as possible to hopefully prevent me from having to replace any parts. I've seen where many folks have talked about replacing this spring but I never knew why it needed replaced. I know a within the first year it seemed like the moving parts were not working as smoothly as they originally did so that is when the use of the dry spray lube came into play for me. If nobody has answered your questions I'll try to take a look at my clamps tomorrow and see if I can understand how this is assembled and maybe I'll be able to help answer your question.

We have a college campus that has solar panels over a large parking lot instead of like carports they built a solar farm parking lot.. My wife said why don't they cover parking lots and stores etc with those panels instead of buying all the farmland up. I often wondered what the safety would be for those in parking lots etc like this.. Not only human safety but what effect if any on the cars electronics too..

I absolutely hate the solar panel farms.. They have bought out several cattle farms in my area and have been making the fields into solar farms and making a mess of the fields.. be interesting how the snow or hail will affect these. Sad to see what was crop fields and now all you see is rows and rows of solar panels.. don't get me wrong they may have a small place for if a homeowner would like to sub some alternative energy more power to them.. but ruining farmlands to do this just doesn't seem all that smart to me. This is probably getting too much into political talk but I've not been a supporter of this electric car push or the solar and wind farms.. I don't know a much about these things but hear that the solar panels are bad for the environment.. maybe they'll circle back after my time is gone and realize this was a bad idea.. tax the people again to clean up the land and mess they made and go back to nuclear power plants or coal.. I'd be curious what many people that know way more than I really think about this stuff.. This site probably not the place for discussion as it'd likely turn too politics in the process.. I'd be open to hear anyones thoughts in a PM on some of this stuff push for the direction they're taking our kids too though. The electric cars are pretty dangerous for the firefighters for not only the fire hazards but also electrocution in car crashes and the firefighters having to cut people out of a car is pretty bad stuff to mess with.. especially if it's in the rain, snow etc.. I guess I just see them as way more dangerous and hazardous.. not to mention what happens to all these batteries in 20+ years.. maybe they've got this all thought out but also seems like bad ideas to me.. Wonder what the health effects are of the self charging roads they're making in in Michigan.. I heard they was building a electric road that somehow charges the car as you drive on it or something.. and here they talk about cell phones causing cancers etc.. Just what we need is more of this garbage to ruin the human population..

I don't know when LED's came out but I can say I bought one and it wasn't no cheap purchase back then.. I wanna say like $25 - 30 for one bulb back then.. thinking this was around 2007-8 maybe? anyway that bulb is still going strong and is in one of the most used light fixtures in my house.. ( now that I jinxed myself I guess I better find a replacement for it LOL ).. My wife bought a package of bulbs from somewhere with about 8? bulbs in it for less than that one bulb cost us.. those bulbs replaced some of those old twisted looking fluorescent bulbs which also lasted quite a long time.. also replaced a few of those that must have been in a area where there was too much heat or too little air flow because I replaced some of those twisted bulbs that still worked but were melting and looked like a fire hazard with these cheaper LED's. anyway.. I've been slowly replacing these cheaper LED's because of blowing out or flickering already.. One of them lasted almost a week.. .. so you're right.. they are not all made the same, LOL.. I still like the LED's better than those fire hazard twist looking fluorescents that they pushed for us to replace the old incandescent bulbs with.. those also generated heat but was not melting themselves kinda heat.. yeah if you're not to smart and have a lamp shade on any of them they'll likely start a fire.. maybe not the LED's but I still wouldn't recommend that, LOL Anyway, LED's have come a long way with filtering out the blue color output but they've also IMO have cut corners to cheapen the long life that they used to offer too maybe.. could also be just the cheap light package we got but the newer what would be name brand ones have shown some flicker issues already as well.. Maybe I'm just not finding the $25 each quality bulbs no more like my first ones were. The T5 and T8 style LED bulbs in my shop have been good.. original ones from when I built the shop back in 2012.. the fluorescent T5's I had to replace bulbs a few times already but blame that on making them try to work in the cold.. I hear the cold is harsh on them which is why I've now switch those to LED's now too. Of coarse now that I have heat in the shop, I could have kept a few of them fluorescents going.

I'd go with the cheap bulb then.. I will say the LED is super bright and some people are sensitive to light.. mostly vampires I think .. but sometimes I will swap mine out for the one fluorescent one I have left especially if I happen to have a cold virus or not feeling 100% then I too am a bit sensitive to the bright light.. As I said earlier.. not everyone likes those LED's The light output I don't think is a lot different but the color temperature is what makes it bright..

For me it was the poor start-up in cold weather for the fluorescent to turn on and a bonus was it was about 2 times brighter.. But some people don't like the brighter light as much. Less power consumption means you're saving energy for someone else who needs to charge their car.. Oh, and the bulb is made out of some stronger plastic of some sort instead of glass, as I haven't broken any of the LED bulbs "yet"

Bought this mask today and just tried it out to saw a 4" circle in a 3/4" board for a dryer vent (actually a laser vent that'll set in a window so I don't have to cut a hole in my shop wall..).. Anyway, love the mask.. was so comfortable I kinda forgot I had it on. Thanks for the heads up on this. Used to have one similar but the company changed up the design and the old one broke and didn't like the new one. Also my MRI shows I have Mastoiditis and they are now sending me to another specialist at the university hospital. I have a bad deviated septum too which the ENT says can cause more inflammation etc. for my sinuses and that may be more of my issues than my actual allergies. I've known I have the deviated septum for years but no doctor ever mentioned this could be a lot of my sinus issues either so I never bothered to have it fixed. It's also a possibility that this is what has caused the mastoiditis too but he wanted me to see another specialist more specialized in this situation.

I didn't need to change anything other than the bulb.. I also went from fluorescent to the LED bulb. I also picked up a LED bulb from Menards that worked pretty good but didn't have the swivel plug so it doesn't fit in the spot as good as it should but I've not had any issues with it either.

This is the one I buy for mine.. Notice how the electrical connector swivels.. most of them do not have this option and don't fit real well with the correct angle to plug it in all the way without making the bulb be placed in an awkward position.. so I buy these ones or at least look for the ones with a swivel plug. https://www.ebay.com/itm/222261066257

I bought my magnifier lights from Menards years ago.. they started out as the circular fluorescents but when I got my first Hawk scroll saw with the spring loaded upper arm that just pops up when you break a blade and being new to the saw I broke many blades trying to learn the tension system on it. Anyway broke a blade and the arm popped up and busted my bulb, .. So I did some searching for bulbs and run across the circle LED replacements.. that was a game changer on the same cheap light by just replacing the broken bulb... go figure I liked that LED bulb so much I bought 3 more for the other lights even those they hadn't been broken yet. Oh and the LED bulb is made of some pretty good plastic.. but you can still break one unfortunately.. Darn Hegner has a spring loaded arm too and the up front tension lever that sticks up 3 inches above the upper arm.. I'm learning to place my light out farther from the arms should a blade break.. Edited: I should mention that the Menards light is basic same thing as HF light other than HF has a cover to flip up to protect the lens. Also when you're out of the shop place a rag or something over the magnifier so no light can pass through it.. last thing you need is to start a fire from sun shining through the magnifier

Good to see the progress you made along your scrollsaw journey and to share those projects and progression along that journey with us. Also good to see your new hobby and projects and to see and hear from your experiences there. Many folks get stuck on doing one thing and stay with it, many times their whole career or hobby because they learned that and got comfortable with that so then they don't want to step out of their comfort zone. While this site is for scroll saw stuff there are other sections that you could post your progress of the new hobby if you'd like to.. I'm sure many others would also love to see that progress as well. If you don't that's fine too but do check in now and then and say hi. This site is like a online family and it's sad to make friendships and then they bail out and never hear from them again. I myself haven't really done any scroll work this entire year.. I have been playing with the CNC and laser's but those are forbidden in the scrolling community, but I still hang out here as I've gained many friends here and enjoy the conversations to be had here still. Whatever you do, enjoy the journey

Been scrollsawing for 20+ years and still learning new stuff.. Had many various types and brands of saws etc.. each one has a different set-up for different types of cutting.

Yes, I also do that.. I forgot to mention that part too.. Here's the thing with these types of saws that do not have a "actual tension lever" like the DeWalt etc. is that there are a lot of bearings and linkages where slack can be.. and once you apply tension it takes that slack out sometimes and then releasing that tension will show that your blade was maybe in right but it took up all the slack in those arms.. These saws have about 20 ish bearings between all the linkages etc.. that can have a lot of slack by the time it gets to the front of the saw. Especially if you have a older saw that may have slightly more wear on all of those pivot points etc.

I stand corrected.. I looked at the manual and it does say to use the knob.. That all said, I've been told that once you set that knob to get the upper arm parallel don't touch it again or you'll get it all out of tune. I suppose that since I rarely have the need to change any tension anyway because I mostly only use one size blade in that particular saw anyway.

I've never changed the knob on mine even going down to the 2/0 blades I use sometimes.. however I do mount the blade slightly loose, as in on the larger blade I push down on the upper arm slightly as I lift up on the blade that is already clamped in the lower chuck to take out any of the "bearings slack".. but I don't do either on the smaller blades.

If you use that knob at the back of the saw you'll be getting the upper arm all out of adjustment.. that knob is to adjust the height of the upper arm so that it is parallel to the saw table. The upper arm should measure the same distance to the table at both the front of the saw and at the back of the saw.

I don't think he meant if the tension is too high.. I think he said if you tension the blade then release the tension and the blade has a bow in it then the blade chuck screws are likely slipping.. I didn't see anywhere he mentions tensioned too high.. I don't think you really can tension too high can you? well maybe because then you'll likely break a blade. EDIT: I don't think there is anyway to adjust the tension of the blade on a Pegas saw? There is no way to adjust it on the Excalibur unless you have one of the older models.

In my opinion if you're able to twist a blade like that then you have a tensioning issue.. maybe not enough at the start of the cut or slippage once you start cutting.. I don't know but I have had instances where a blade would twist some.. maybe not that much but anyway it was always because the tension on the balde wasn't enough.. You might try cleaning your clamp screws where they pinch the blade and also sand the ends of the blade to remove the oils from the blade.. they're coated to prevent rusting andover time they'll build up oil on the clamping screws. There may be a different issue here with your situation but that is what I've always had happen when a blade slipped in the clamp.

Castings are beautiful!! I think I might sell my saws now..