kmmcrafts

Not for sure where you are in relation to this but this one looks like a decent deal.. new this saw runs around $1100 I think.. doesn't look to be used a lot to me.. Maybe 50 - 100 hours https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1302295034104092/?ref=saved&referral_code=null This one has been listed for a few weeks now... never been used with stand and foot switch etc.. He may haggle on price a little to get into your price range. This saw new is another $1000 for the saw only.. stand I think is another $100 ish so to buy all this new is probably around $1200 + tax https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/952241970096593/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Accf7a6ec-d3c6-4207-866c-5ae7526b64a7

Maybe you need to figure out what it is you plan to make with these saws... Scroll saws can do a very wide variety of work from cutting wood to thin sheet metal to plastics etc. etc. then the various projects within these materials also has a wide range of things to make.. You will not be able to do intricate fretwork very well with any of the machines you have mentioned as they just are not user friendly for those types of projects.. I could see this saw being used for rough cutouts of shapes etc.. imagine much sanding would be needed but in that case a bandsaw would probably be a better choice.. But maybe if that is what you plan to make then it might be a good choice.. most of us when we hear you're looking for scroll saw we think of fine detailed artwork and things like that.. The proxxon and this tool are not a good choice for the things most of us would think of using as you would a scroll saw.

Don't these use like a jigsaw blade? Blade looks huge in the link that JT posted.. I can't see this being very fun to use..

I'm 50 miles South of downtown Grand Rapids or 10 miles North of downtown Battle Creek. The main saw I'd like to sell is the 1998 RBI Hawk Ultra model 226VS.. has around 6-8 extra blade holders.. Don't let the year of the saw scare you as this saw was still sealed in the original box when I got it. I put hour meters on all my equipment and this is the lowest hour saw I have with only 102 hours on the meter so it's still like new. Somewhere I have the receipt from the original purchase.. guy I got it from ordered it in Dec. 1998 but didn't get delivery until January of 1999 and he had a stroke and couldn't use it.. it sat in a climate controlled shop until I bought it in 2017.. I'd let that saw go for $450 that's a firm price as I don't haggle. I've got a 2002 Hegner Multimax 18 that I might be able to be talked out of but I currently haven't played around with it enough and would like to get more time on it to see whether I really like or dislike it.. but I could be talked out of it for $350. I don't know much history on the saw other than it was pretty grimmy / dirty and needed much elbow grease and cleaning up when I got it.. Runs great and seems to work good.. I've only put 5 ish hours on this saw which is why I'd kinda like to hang onto it. I ran the other saw I had in mind this morning for a few minutes and I currently cannot sell it.. It's a China made Excalibur but this saw might be having some issues and I just can't sell it to someone the way it is currently.. May just have been some dust in the speed controller but the motor was hunting speeds this morning so I need to look into this before setting a price and selling someone a faulty saw.. That's not how I do things.. It's got quite a few ( 560 ) hours on it, and may need a few things checked over.. so currently not for sale. I also bought this new in box from someone that won it in a raffle.. I got it in Nov. of 2018 I have a 2018 Hawk BM26VS that I bought new in Dec. of 2018 but didn't take delivery until April 2019.. saw has 500 hours on it.. Can't say I really want to sell this one either but I suppose I could be talked out of it for around $650.. IF this saw sold then the other RBI 226VS wouldn't be for sale... I'll be keeping one of these bigger saws.

I do agree, not everyone needs a higher end saw either.. most entree level or better saws will last a good amount of time for I'd say the majority of scrollers.. and as JT pointed out.. the used market usually has some pretty good buys on high end saws.. Back when I first got into scroll sawing I didn't even have a saw or the money for one.. so I just bought a pack of blades and used my fingers to hold each end of the blade.. made enough products to sell to buy a actual scroll saw with a motor on it.. This is just my scroll saw version of having to walk to school in 3 ft of snow uphill both ways barefoot and without a coat when I was a kid...

Yes, I do want to downsize and sell at least two saws.. been wanting to do this since the beginning of the year and now it's almost the beginning of the next year. My issue is I like each saw for certain projects I make and I am having a hard time on which saws to let go and what ones to keep.. Maybe you need to come pick for me.. My prices will range from $300 - 650 depending on the saw you choose, LOL I'm getting out of doing so much of the scroll sawing and getting more into laser and cnc work.. Amish people just moved in a mile up the road and he is a cabinet maker that just built a huge new shop and wants to hire me to do their CNC work on the cabinet doors etc.. so it's looking like I'm going to be doing less and less scroll work and going more and more to the dark side with the cnc and laser stuff. I have 5 saws but only willing to sell two of the 4 in my shop.. the 5th saw was a saw my father bought new and started his hobby which when he upgraded I asked to play around with his old saw which is what got me started in the business.. same saw got him in the business.. I restored it and for now it's not going to be for sale.. I'm down in southwest Michigan.. your name here makes me believe you're from Shelby Mi.. that's probably at least 2 hours from me..

https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=871456141169323

Unless the Shop Fox and the Proxxon have changed up the saw in the last couple years I would stay away from those.. The reviews on these a few years back was not very good and blade changes were not user friendly etc.. be sure to research them well if you choose that route. Knowing what I know now and just getting started in the hobby the buy the best you can and buy once is true.. however if you don't even know if you'll enjoy the hobby it's a tough call because a lot of these expensive machines do not hold the resale value.. A brand new Hawk or Hegner cost you around $1700 and if you don't like the hobby the resale on them is lucky to get $600 back from one that is barely used.. on the flip side a DeWalt runs you $600 but used ones will sell upwards of $350+ for like new machine.. These other new to the market saws we have no idea of a resale value.. but if I were looking at used saws online and a like new Bauer came up.. since I can get a new one for $220 on sale with a manufacture warranty I'm not paying much for a used one with no warranty either. The DeWalt name holds some resale value.. and are nice saws to start with. IF I was just throwing some cash around and wanted to take a chance of loosing some $$ knowing it going into this I'd probably look pretty hard at that Bauer.. seems like a nice starter saw in my opinion. Also don't rule out a good quality used saw.. Knowing what I do now about these saws and the help from others on these forums and groups.. I wouldn't be afraid to buy a quality used saw for the same price range.. just ask here about a saw you find.. many of us here can tell a lot about a saws condition based off of photos... and high end Hawk and Hegners can be had in the price range of these "new" starter saws depending on your location.

Based on my experience with these type of saws.. I don't think it'll be trouble free in 500 hours.. I'd say it'd probably be a miracle if it made it to 300 hours without the need for some bearings or some other part.. Maybe I've had lemons and or maybe my style of cutting or how I run the saw but I'd say around 250 - 300 ish hours you're going to start getting the bearing knocks.. One of these saws might make it much longer before they completely go to pot.. I don't know how long one could actually run one of these with the knocking and added vibration before it actually became unusable.. I've always taken them apart and cleaned / regreased or replaced parts when I get to that point.. which for me was around 250 - 300 hours on my DeWalt the two times I rebuilt it and same scenario with my Excalibur.. this is just my experience, maybe I'm harder on these than others are or maybe I got a lemon and also replacement parts were not great.. but based on my personal experience for whatever that's worth.. this is how these type saws last for how I use them.. your mileage may vary a little or a lot.. I just don't see these making it that many hours.. BTW there is a huge discrepancy in hours from those that say they are in the shop for X hours a week and actual saw runtime hours via a hour meter hooked up to the footswitch on the saw.. Type of cutting makes a huge difference in hours too.. ie if I am cutting puzzles instead of fretwork type stuff I can run 2 times the hours in a saw sitting time.. there is way more down time when swapping the blade out to the next hole to cut than one might think.. Doing fretwork it's tough to get 10 - 15 hours on a saw in a weeks time.. doing puzzles etc.. is much more easily done.

Really hard to beat the price of this saw and to get that warranty so I could wear it out before the 2 years.. makes me wanna go buy one, but why? not like I need the 5th saw in my shop.. sometimes wish I could use 2 at once though, LOL.. The older Hawk with the round barrel clamps is definitely a no to top feeding.. I have on occasion top fed on my Ultra but it's not really user friendly at all for that and it wasn't designed to be able to so I suppose that is why. The new Hawk is pretty simple to top feed.. probably easier than my EX-21 honestly. I learned to saw with a bottom feed saw only but I can do either fairly easy after much practice, however muscle memory kicks in and I just get into a rhythm so 99.9% of the time I bottom feed.. and really only time I do top feed is on very large projects where bottom feed is more of a hassle than it needs to be, so I consciously remember to top feed then.

I think hardboard is what I've seen people make them from. If you had a metal table that magnetic sheet like is used on the Seyco saw would be easy to cut and make, but I'm not sure it'd stay in place on a aluminum table top. https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/handi-panels/2-x-4-hardboard-handi-panel/1291119/p-1642874322992553-c-13337.htm?exp=false I've also seen people just tape a playing card over the top of the hole around the blade and use the original saw table.. Seems like you'd have to be careful not to have the project catch onto the edge of it but I've never tried it so I don't know.

Don't think you can top feed on a older Hawk and not at all on a Hegner.. The new Hawk and a Hawk G4 you can as the blade holders are out front of the angle adjustment mechanism rather than behind it. And Hawk made a lever that holds the arm down while attaching the blade specifically for top feeding.

Just in case anyone is planning to pick up one of these.. Black Friday coupon gives a little price break on this saw.. Enjoy

Beautiful work Denny, I cut those same designs some years ago and cut from 1/8" ply then made the backers out of walnut.. was big hit for many of my friends who have served as they all loved them.. Thanks to all who have served or currently serving!

I just went to the website and added it to my cart and then hitting the checkout button screen it gives me the option of 1 year for 49.99 or two years for 59.99.. For someone like me that scrolls a lot and burns through a DeWalt in one to one and a half years that might be a good deal since I can't even source the bearings to rebuild one that cheap.. I believe it cost me around $180 way back in 2014 which was the last time I rebuilt the Dewalt I had and then I sold it in 2017. The EX-21 parts cost me nearly $200 or maybe a little more than $200 back in 2020 when I rebuilt that.. I have about 550 hours run time on the hour meter on the EX-21 and have rebuilt it twice now.. and it's getting there for a third time.. Oddly enough.. 550 hours on the new Hawk I bought.. still kickin up dust like it was new.. no parts has been needed yet.

Yeah, same thing with me.. While I will likely wait until a better economy one like this in on my list at some point so I'll also be watching for reviews etc. on ths

Yeah, or the motor which is what is the issues with mine. The circuit board on mine went bad and is NLA from Delta..I did find another source for one be at $200 I figured I'd just buy a new one instead. I wired it direct and bypassed this but was told it'd burn up the motor and I believe that is happening now as it doesn't maintain a speed when running.. It'll turn on and go faster than it should and then slow down lower than it should be.. still works for that occasional pass I make on it now and then but is probably a safety hazard to use it this way. IF it was a big floor model I'd probably put some effort into repairing it but it's just a small benchtop model and one I picked up back in 08 at a garage sale for $10. Has served me well until the chip went out a couple years ago.. and worked good for a while after wiring it direct.. I think when I get a 25% or one of those big 35% off coupons their will be a new tool in my shop and another tax write-off.. LOL

Man they sure are coming out with a lot of woodworking stuff lately.. https://www.harborfreight.com/35-gallon-dust-collector-with-2-micron-canister-filter-70757.html

Just got another email showing another new tool.. Not a helical head but it does have several individual knives similar to those. Mine has been running on it's last leg for 5-6 years.. I don't use it a lot but sure is handy to have when I need one. I may have to look closely at this one as the price is right and with little use it might be my next new tool. LOL https://www.harborfreight.com/12-amp-6-in-benchtop-jointer-70303.html?slot_id=7&utm_source=dynamic yield&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2024_11_05_wk4524_new_tool_tuesday_0_60_ENGAGED&utm_content=New_Tool_Tuesday&itc=N

They look great! nice work..

Clean up the saw wax the table and oil the oiling points on it or other equipment. I like to do saw maintenance at the ending of a day so the oil has time to trickle down into the bearings etc. That of course depends on the saw too.. as some don't really have anyplace to oil etc. Sometimes I'll start prepping the next project like sorting / selecting the board and pre-sand it etc. In my shop there is always something to do or needs to be done so I don't have too much problems with "what to do" more like what's most important to do now and what can wait a day or two, LOL

Thanks for sharing this. I think I'll have it done as well at some point, but they want to take care of the Mastoiditis first..

41D is the part that I call the sliding part, LOL.. I think where it actually binds up at is where the rod goes through the hole in the upper part of the blade chuck.. just above where the spring is. At least that seemed to be where mine did it years ago and that's when I learned to start using the dry spray lube. Edit to add link to manual.. I had a hard time finding the manual PDF.. Every time I went to the link in the Grobet website it came up with 404 not found or something like that.. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/manuals/pegas/158541 Pegas 21in Scroll Saw.pdf

I just posted this on another thread but I'll put it here as well since this one might get better search results in the future. I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all.. The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Didn't know these things about on aluminum.. Not sure what the spray I use has in it but it has worked real well for me for the last 7 years so must not be a problem.. Anyway this is good info to know.