kmmcrafts

Anyone know anything about the caster wheels with stems? LOL.. Broke a wheel on the front of my shop vac last spring and it rolled okay with just the one front wheel on the other side so i never looked into repairing it. Now the other side broke a couple weeks ago and I finally looked up the model of the vac to order a set of wheels only to find it's NLA. Obsolete. I came up with a part number and searched that but no luck finding them. I'm assuming they didn't make this wheel anything special and one should be able to order something somewhere by the wheel size and stem size but I so far am coming up empty. I know this vac is probably close to 15 - 20 years old.. Even if I could find a 2" tall wheel and drill out the stem bracket rivet and bolt the wheel in place.. my brackets are fine but the plastic wheel on one side broke in half and the one that just broke had worn the center out completely.. must have a couple hundred thousand miles on it.. I know I roll it around the shop a lot but wow.. the whole center is gone, LOL A 2" rubber wheel and using a bolt and nut through it for the axle would work.. but it's be nice just to order something that would pop right on too. Suppose I could make a wooden wheel LOL.. but worried about starting a fire as much as I must be rolling this thing around the shop, LOL. The part number for the wheel I am looking for is SV-6772200 It's a long shot but maybe someone here has info or experience with these caster wheels and knows a source. I did find a set of 4 at this place but reviews that I seen say not to order from here as they just take your money and you get nothing.. with all other sources being out of stock.. I'm guessing that'd be what would happen to me.. unless someone here really knows this place is a legit place I'm not ordering, LOL https://www.chicagoshopusa.com/4209296-Set-of-4-of-6772200-Shop-Vac-Caster_p_17558.html

I cut a lot of Cherry, Maple, Oak, and Walnut as well as moth other hardwoods in 3/4" thickness for my clocks I make.. and I've always used a #3 or #5 blade.. I like the Pegas MGT blades or I used to use a lot of the FD Ultra Reverse.. however now days that I've learned more along my scrolling journey probably a skip tooth would be better than the Ultra Reverse if using FD brand blades. Those Pegas MGT blades have worked wonders on most everything I've thrown at them and I only buy the #3 and #5 sizes.. and cut everything from 1/8" - 1" with them.. but on occasion I use smaller blades but in the smaller sizes I like the FD brand better than Pegas.. That's just what I like though.. everyone has their own comfort / skill level. Blades are subjective to one's saw set-up and how fast / slow etc. they're comfortable cutting at so I always like to make this statement because I could suggest my go to blade but you may hate it.. as you can already see.. some have mentioned a #1 blade.. They have way more patients than I do.. Now not saying I'd never use a #1 on 1" as I have for special veining etc.. but I'm not interested in cutting out a whole bowl from hardwood with a #1 blade.. Not sure what type of puzzles you're talking about.. but since you mentioned 3/4" wood I assume you're not talking about gluing a picture to a 1/4" piece of plywood and making a puzzle from the picture.. Most the 3/4" puzzles I make I cut with a #3 MGT blade..

12 years ago I bought a set of these.. I did use a couple of them but they were not great.. I had a special project I was working on that needed inside sanding or at least I thought that was the best way to do inlay work at that time.. this was before I knew out to bevel inlay so I was sanding things to make them fit. Anyway they did work for the purpose I bought them for at the time.. however they didn't last too long. and they were a struggle to fit into the saws blade chucks. I had a Dremel 1800 saw at that time. As others have said, the right blade and know how will result in these being basically useless.. and also as mentioned, I've made a few of my own like the others have stated using sandpaper and old blades.. those homemade ones actually worked way better as they was thin strips as the purchased ones were about 1/4" if memory serves correct.

Most tools I've purchased from HF was a tool that was something I felt I wouldn't use much and not going to pay top brand tool prices for a one time or very few times use.. Years ago I bought a sawzall to cut some 4" PVC sewer pipes for a job I was doing. I had to take the tool back to HF 4 times and this job was a really small job that I should have used a hand saw on but I didn't.. Their tools have come a long way from back in those days.. Being into mechanic things etc I follow some mechanics on social sites. I had to search out these guys and hoped I'd find them on YouTube so I could share the video. I don't think the video is from the actual guy making them but rather maybe it's someone else posting their videos.. or they have a different name on YouTube.. either way.. this is just hand tools but HF tools outperformed Snap-On in the test these guys put them through. Ray @OCtoolguy might like to see since he was a tool sales guy for several years and probably knows way more about tools and tool quality than many of us. There are several other mechanics doing these same test if you search for Icon vrs. Snap-On Etc. Pretty interesting to see this kind of testing. I might have two Hawks, a Hegner and a Excalibur scroll saw in my shop and most everything else is DeWalt.. I always push for used higher end saws because of the cost and quality.. Just because something is new does not make it better and I can say that from first hand experience with the Hawk saws.. BTW. I have less money in all the saws I've owned than I do in the one brand new Hawk I bought.. and out of then.. the new Hawk is probably my least favorite.. It's still a very nice saw but the quality isn't there like the older ones. It's not quite as smooth as the older ones were. Let's not forget there could be two types of tool snobs.. one loves high end tools and the other loves the cheapest tool that does the job.. at the end of the day it doesn't affect me one bit which one category one chooses.. I have both high end and cheap tools and most have done me well for the purpose in which I bought them for. The only memorable real disappointment in a tool I ever recall is the sawzall I purchased years ago.. and HF has really upped the quality since back then.

Congratulations on the new saw.. I hope to see some of the projects you make with it. I was at my local HF store not to long ago and check that saw out.. I think it'll be a great saw for most folks and yeah they are a hard to beat price. I've had really good luck with all the Bauer brand tools I've bought so far.. IF I were looking to get another saw I'd consider trying one of these.. My local HF is very good about returns and exchanges if there were a problem..

Welcome to the Village! Guess I can't really add to what the others have already said

Depends on the sales person as to what the term "sealed bearings" means.. I remember when the Pegas first came out and the guy that used to work for the magazine site got a job with Grobet USA and he was pushing the term pretty hard that the Pegas was different than the Excalibur, King, and Seyco saws because it was built better due to bigger and sealed bearings.. Now don't get me wrong, I've not taken a Pegas apart to see with my own eyes... but when the saw was made in the same facility as all the others I questioned his statement and looked up the parts in the manuals.. They are all the same bearing part numbers.. so I called him out on it.. I guess a seal bearing can mean that the saw itself has covers over all the bearings and parts.. so basically all saws today have sealed bearings as most are completely enclosed, you know all the plastic garbage in the way to actually get to the bearings.. While the saws do have "A" single sealed bearing the rest are open needle type bearings. They (Pegas) claims to have made the one main bearing that takes all the beating inside the saw much bigger and heavier bearing.. However the part numbers are all the same.. SO, they either need to update the parts list in the manuals or quit lying to the potential customers.. Most people don't care but I'd be on fire with them for false advertising if I bought a saw based on the premise that it is better made than the other that is slightly cheaper.. Funny thing is.. you don't seem to see this advertised from Pegas and the dealer's about this so called larger bearing anymore..

Never thought about using a drill bit in the hole like that.. I've had this happen before and run a couple wood screws into scrap areas then remove them and put the screws back in the box when finished. Haven't had this issue since I started using pin nails to hold the stacks..

Nice video, I had a very similar thought on the idea behind that stick to release the arm.. I don't have one of these saws but this was the first thought that came to mind when I looked at the one on display at my local HF store. As for the bearing grease, I could be wrong but I always thought the bearing manufacture applied the grease to the bearings.. that's not to say that the assembler couldn't add more if needed but I would think this is not so much a DeWalt issue as it is their supplier for the bearing, That said.. All of these saws I've taken apart have had very little grease in them.. which is probably okay in many machine situations.. but the biggest issue I feel is the fact that the fine sawdust can collect around the bearing and soak up any of the moisture out of what little grease there is.. then you get a dried crusty hard compound that doesn't lubricate at all.. This goes for any of these bearings that are not a sealed ball bearing type bearing.. the way the saw is designed I also don't really see how any other type bearing would work either so they probably just figure they'll sell parts or new saws.. in a few years.. The design of these saws make a wonderful cutting scroll saw and very smooth running... until they're not, LOL.. It's been said before that the reason these saws have all the covers and everything is enclosed is because of the lack of sealed bearings. I'd say it sure helps to keep dust out of the bearings but also a bit more work to oil / replace them too.

Those old Deltas are built like a tank.. Parts for most of them are obsolete and they are not the most user friendly saw out there for sure, but they'll get the job done..

That’s my whole point JT, many of these saws (DeWalt asan example) out of the box too aggressive for fine detail work. Many guys back in the day were drilling holes and modified Dewalt saws voiding warranty etc trying to make it a usable saw for the type of project they were working on. My Dewalt was aggressive as well but not as bad as some others I’ve seen and I was able to cope with it. Having had a saw that is adjustable is an option that I personally look for in a saw. Some saws are built well enough ( Hawk and Hegner ) where they have the blade going fairly straight up and down. You start getting into these other mid level saws it’s a feature worth having. Once set to a position that works for your style of cutting / projects you no longer need to adjust it. Having an adjustment is a plus. Not really a must have but surely nice to have.

You don't happen to want to make another trip to Michigan do you? I have a huge stockpile of Walnut lumber I need out of my way.. It's not high grade stuff as it didn't pass grade inspections at my brothers sawmill due to a knot in the middle or split in it etc.. They reject anything that doesn't have a good 6 or 8 ft section in it.. but there are many good sections in it for a bowl, clock, puzzle etc.. or? whatever you want to make.. perfect stuff for cutting boards and small craft projects where you can work around those bad areas. I cut most of it down to 6 - 7 ish foot for my storage area. It's all rough cut and about 1" thick various widths.. most being at least 6" wide. I have 4 stacks of it about 3 ft tall stacks.. like to have at least one stack disappear. LOL.. I've already got rid of a couple stacks to my daughters boyfriend.. At my brothers mill yesterday and he asked me if I want some more as he has about a few hundred Bdft more he needs out of his way, LOL.. He just burns it in his outdoor boiler or it goes into his wood chipper or turned into sawdust depending on his demand at the time. so I've already passed on it and said I don't need anymore walnut for a couple years, LOL.. but if he gets Maple, Cherry, or Poplar I'll take it, LOL I just burned about 150bdft. of spalted maple because it doesn't work well for scrolled projects that I make.. I saved it from his wood burner and it sat in my shop for 10 years and I finally put it in my wood burner a couple months ago. Tried selling it first.. but nobody even sent a inquiry about it.. I put the walnut on marketplace but most want to come get just a couple boards.. then they want to dig through the pile and leave a big mess.. I'll burn that too before I deal with that kind of stuff again.. now see why my brother doesn't mess with this stuff. If you're interested send me a message.

You know, used to be when something was made by a certain brand that company made the entire machine, but these days there are part makers and then there are assemblers. Really makes one wonder on these saws.. are the link arms and such all produced by the same manufacture and just purchased by a company to assemble all the components? I would almost argue the fact that most all these saws have the same made guts in them short of the frame and then painted and stickered to be whatever brand name the order came in from. The biggest differences I've seen on these are the blade chucks, the tilting mechanism is different on some of them, and some have the adjustable motor for adjusting the aggressiveness of the cutting.. My China made Excalibur when I rebuilt it I used all the parts from Seyco for the Seyco / Excalibur saw.. I really seen no difference in the parts other than the frame tubing on one saw was a different size.. but my China made saw is basically a Pegas or EX whatever brand you want to label it. The bearings in the original saw when new lasted about 250 hours use... The new parts I put in 2 years ago from Seyco has been 300 hours now and starting to be clunky knocky so it's getting ready for another rebuild.. I'm torn if I want to put money in it because I'm also starting to get the electrical hunting for the speed and on these I don't think it's a simple pot switch its more of a circuit board replacement.. and I'm not sure it's worth putting a few hundred into it or send it to a landfill once I strip off the pegas clamps and other useful parts. My point is.. I believe these saws are basically all the same.. choose your features and price range and roll with it. My biggest drawback on the HF saw is that you cannot turn / adjust the motor to change how aggressive it cuts.. same for the DeWalt.. Makes one wonder, can one possibly take a slotted motor mount ring off a EX type saw and mount it to a HF or DeWalt saw? Maybe.. Now could one of these companies ask the part makers for cheaper quality bearings etc. and cheapen the saw build.. Probably.. can one order parts for a different saw to get the better quality bearings? Well that is what I did with the Excalibur.. so if you're mechanical incline.. you likely could build whatever brand saw fancies you.. but are those parts really any different? Ray at Seyco has told me those parts are hit or miss on quality.. some folks get years out of the bearings and some not very long at all.. Is it bearing quality? Hard use of the machine? Environment of the saw such as damp location, heated shop, or cold shop, etc etc.. My point is enjoy saving money on whatever budget saw you choose..

Yeah that's how it was when I went to look at it.. hard to see up on the top shelf and zip tied down. I imagine it is tied down not so much as theft but some idiot would probably spin it around and drop it off the top shelf onto their toe or something and then as sue happy as people are and insurance companies are these days there would be a lawsuit. It's not like the old days when people had some common sense. LOL On the flip side, They have a great return policy.. or at least mine does.. Buy it, look it over and return it, LOL.

Talk about a big blade, this blade is about 1/8 or so thick kerf and about 8” wide. Little too big a blade for your standard bandsaw, lol Stopped in at my brothers sawmill and he was talking about how he broke a blade and the thing folded all up and the back edge stuck into this big chunk of wood. When he breaks a blade it soundS like a cannon went off.

Might want to make sure the olive oil won't go rancid and make your finish go from a safe finish to a toxic one. I'm on some cutting board forums and many of the topics are about using specific oils because of some oils will turn rancid and become toxic.. this is why most cutting boards say to treat with mineral oil.. I'm no expert on this, just passing on what I've read on other forums..

Bought mine off eBay.. I have one of the digital ones but I don't care for the fact that every 1/10 is 6 minutes.. and if you're in between digits you could be just a few seconds from going to the next 1/10 but not know it.. Plus they ( at least mine ) don't have a way to change the battery so you toss it in the landfill when it dies. So I prefer the analog style. I bought a short cheap extension cord and cut the end off to crimp the spade connectors to it.. then a three way plug that I plug into my foot switch so then it powers the saw, seyco dust collector, and the hour meter. So it all runs off the foot switch. Most any hour meter like for a generator etc. will work. This is like I use but if I were to do over again I might go with the round one.. as they should be mounted in a electrical box or enclosure and I think it'd be easier to cut a round hole to mount it than the rectangle hole since I have hole saws but not ones for a rectangle, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/296134624082?_skw=hour+meter&itmmeta=01JD26ZVXEQKKS0D3EAH4WR8DD&hash=item44f2ffc352:g:mj4AAOSwCvJjT56d&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn80mRA1ONtRZ5BH3rCMsO3KNhsbwZMbPO4aoU%2BX%2BiM63%2FOEM3PRrYQFU7LVSUFnX0AG7%2B91339mb7AckWPbrGpXtvIM0PE36zng43BfFRxhnAJIPs03a6k3mxUbpUoRkI4R4%2FOSMQwhy5a3vIUjJHaPaE40D5UD6BJqRWXYrIznpzoB9XlcE1QkY%2FL%2Fgnq%2BGWMRiusNeBaZkJ6ESIyn7NEmpN44FHY46Tgvx9U%2F4x4Appc2wd4zBouEg11z2fF5Pn4WRVZT6pJTqg3U5VNfHB%2FwGzQg20rdDLIL64qS9rflg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_q-_8boZA

Yeah that was Scott ( Iggy).. and yes he just bought a new saw every year.. I like the parallel link arm saws for many projects I do so I kind of understand why he runs the DeWalts like he does.. The parts to rebuild one ( if replacing all the bearings ) is about half the cost of another saw.. so I get why he does it.. as there is no real down time other than removing one off the stand and putting the new one on the stand. Parallel link saws cut a little more aggressive so cutting the puzzles goes a bit quicker, as many as he sells a year those few minutes add up in time I suppose. I've timed myself cutting the same project on both the Hawk and the Excalibur and it's not much difference maybe a couple minutes.. The EX is a little faster.. but harder to do more precise and intricate stuff. It'd be a tough call as to what saw I'd keep if I was just doing it for hobby fun.. as I like them both for various things so having both is what I do.. and I'll probably always have both style saws. My next one might be that Grizzly.. or the Jet when they run a sale it's not much more than the DeWalt or Grizzly. I have a hard time seeing a Pegas and some of those others being $1000 when others come out of the same factory and are much less money. Pegas do have better clamps but they aren't worth $300+ for the saw just for the clamps when I can buy just the clamps for any of these saws.

Well that is why I always try to push folks to look for a good used high end saw for the same or less money.. there is only about 4-6 bearings in a hawk or Hegner.. and pretty much a standard sized ones that can be had at a local hardware type store.. and then there is like 20 of them on a parallel link arm saw like the Excalibur and those style of saws.. and those are oddball sized that for me anyway, I've had to special order them.. Lot's more pivot points and a tiny bit of slop in each pivot point creates a lot of slop out at the blade end.. This is why I have 2 Hawks a Hegner and a Excalibur.. the EX does have a few reason why I keep it around because of the style of cutting they give.. and that the saw tilts rather than the table for angle cutting. What limited projects I do cut on the EX I still wear it out about every 2-3 years..

Basically yes, that's about what I get from these saws.. Though I'm using them more for commercial use.. and even then it's really quite tough to get 5 hours on a saw in one day..actually kinda tough to get 5-7 hours on a saw in a week. too many things you do that doesn't reflect actual sawing.. the hour meters are hooked up to the saw foot switch so this is actual saw runtime not just setting at the saw time.. You'd be amazed at how much saw time and shop time are different.. You spend a lot of time prepping projects and sanding, drilling, finishing etc. I wish I could remember what project it was I did that took me like 10 hours to cut but the saw time was only 1.5 hours.. I think it was this leopard but I'm not certain now.. This was a long time ago that I timed this out like that.. I don't usually time how long a project takes to cut.. rarely pay any attention to the hour meter honestly.. When I first put them on yes I did do some comparing times.. I was amazed that even though I was in the shop all week that I only had really put like 3 hours on the saws hour meter all week, LOL. It's a huge difference in times.. and now that I know this I always do a bit of a inside giggle when someone post that they saw 8 hours a day and their saw last 2-3 years.. I'll bet the saw is around that 250-300 ish hour mark.. not whatever it would be if it were actually 8 hours a day for 2-3 years, that'd be a lot of hours.. even for a Hawk in my mind.

Mooville and Hudsonville is my brands.. the Mooville farm where they have the cows and where they process the milk and ice cream is just up the road from us so we can get it fresh from the source.. and they are hormone free cattle and don't add all the garbage to it that most places do..

A lot goes into cure times too besides what is said on a can of finish.. such as temperature and humidity levels etc.. I'm sure you know all that.. just pointing that out to anyone else that may not..

I did a video on this a few years ago on my blog about how to make your own mineral oil and beeswax.. Have to make sure you don't heat up too hot or you'll have a fire going.. Here in the USA you can buy this at some of the local woodcrafts type stores already made up.. though a small container is pricey and making it is easy. I'm sure there is probably other videos on this topic on YouTube.. https://www.kevskrafts.com/blog

The Seyco is a much better saw than the Dewalt... for instance, the Seyco upper arm lifts up out of the way when changing blades and feeding blades.. DeWalt does too but you have to hold the arm up with one hand while trying to feed balde with other and or get a device to hold the arm up while you feed the blade through a hole with both hands. The Seyco are you lift up and it'll stay up on it's own until you pull it back down. The Seyco you can rotate the motor via slots and screws which will adjust the blade position for a more or less agressive of a cut.. DeWalt some of the others do not have that option...Seyco has great customer service and Ray or Mike will walk you through repair diagnostics etc right over the phone with you. Rarely any customer support from other brands.. Other than Hawk and Hegner.. Pegas and Jet have decent customer support depending on who you contact. Anyway between the Seyco and the DeWalt.. Seyco hands down is the better option.. Look at the price of a brand new Seyco.. https://seyco.com/product/seyco-st-21-swing-tilt-scroll-saw-allow-1-week-for-shipping/ it's higher priced because it has better features etc.. in the land of scroll saws you really do kinda get what you pay for when looking at new saws.. this is why I always suggest looking at quality used.. That 1998 Hawk I have brand new back in 98 was $1200.. My new one back in 2018 was over $1700.. Bushton Manufacturing recently raised the prices and those BM series Hawk saws now are close to $2000 now I think, not cheap saws but they're made more for commercial type use and they have a lot of the bells and whistles so to speak that the entree and mid level saws lack. Maybe some others will chime in on the two saws as well.. Everyone has a bit of different opinions of various saws.. This is my take on the two. Since you're new to the scroll saw world it might be good to look up some various brand and reviews from real users on YouTube, many of the YouTube videos will show how to change blades and other useful tips and tricks. Steve Good has quite a few saw reviews on his blog.. just do a search for steve good scroll saw blog.. tons of info and also many many free project patterns etc.

DeWalt saws are currently on sale too so that is something to consider.. $399.99.. if scroll sawing isn't for you... used ones sell for that price fairly easy.. They really are the best bang for the buck when getting into the hobby because of the resale if sawing isn't for you.. just another thought. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-in-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-DW788/203070202?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOoqN2RuidgdaC1fuGs1MPk3yBwNUm7-gKBr8rRJnqevk-kLlXYKI4Io Do you have any family or friends that use Facebook that'd send the seller your info or collect info from seller for you? Just do note that I believe it's against FB terms of use to ask for phone numbers and other personal info.. they want you to communicate through FB for deals in case a deal goes sour they have all the info between the two parties if messages are done on the platform..