kmmcrafts

Yeah I have done clocks where there was no woodwork involved.. just using old car parts and turning into a clock. Wheel covers used to be a big seller.. this was back in my "craft show" days when I used to help my dad sell things back in the mid 1980's..Car valve covers.. small briggs and Stratton engine covers where the pull rope is make a clock in it.. I've never sold those type things online though as it's not in line with the whole "woodworking" theme. Never thought about billiard ball clocks.. that's pretty cool.. This was a hot seller for me for a few years.. I made the table by cutting the inner part at a angle so it would set down in like a real table would and then glued green felt in place. I think the actual ball rack pattern was done by ARPOP.. if anyone remembers the name. The table base was my idea though and also not sure if this was designed be be a clock or just a portrait.. I modify so many designs to be made as a clock that many times I forget exactly what I did to the original pattern. I also turn those puzzle patterns into ornaments.. Then the tow truck ornament was originally a CNC routed design that was about 15" tall.. but this was done on the laser... too fragile to try scrolling that one.. Most things I make are modified in some way so no two sellers making things just alike. This owl clock was originally one of those collector plates from the cherry tree.. I made into a clock.. Lastly, many times I turn an ornament design into a wall clock.. This fish clock was originally a ornament from Sue Mey..

They don't sell well like they did in the past.. they still sell though.. and most of these I just relist on etsy as made to order since I have the photos and listing it's just a matter of changing the shipping timelines from 2-3 days to 10 - 14 days and use stock images. This one was a surprise order from my website.. I thought I had taken down all of my "made to order" items a month ago.. I always miss a few and this is the third order this last week that was a surprise order.. it gets too crazy busy this time of year.. so I take those that need made offline until after the holidays.. currently pushing some orders out into next year. Don't get me wrong.. it's still been a slow year, in fact almost dead up until about 2 weeks ago.. at least on Etsy.. Amazon has been steady busy since first part of October and has kept me afloat, LOL. This year business wasn't great but still better than some years in the past.

A couple years ago I started making these puzzle patterns into a clock instead.. many others make puzzles and dog leash holders from these patterns.. I like to be different.. sold quite a few of these but not too many take up the personalized with name option as I put a hefty price on those.. since I can't stock them ready to go and it seems everyone waits until the day before they need it I found that I don't have to personalize it often with a $100 price on it rather than the $80.. Looking at buying a much larger laser.. IF I do then these would fit easily into the bigger laser and then I probably can drop the price to maybe $5 more.. Of coarse lasering the name on it would in some minds make it no longer handmade.. even though it's cut on the scroll saw.. Having to scroll the name involves changing up the pattern thus time in the designing as the portion where the name is I make 1" tall instead of 1/2 for the no name so it's not a lot of work but I do have to change up the design before adding text.

I have in more recent times just taken a photo of patterns and then email them to myself so I could get the pattern into inkscape and edit how I need.. Back in the day when I had a subscription to the magazines I didn't have a camera on my flip phone, LOL.. How much tech has changed in 20 years. LOL For me, I want electronic file anyway so the next time I need to make a copy I don't have to go through the scanning process again..

My scanner is 8.5 x 11 like a standard sheet of paper.. if the pattern I want is in the middle of this large insert you have to either fold it to get to the pattern you want or cut it out.. cutting it out you ruin the patterns that they have printed on the back side.. in some cases I'd get marks scanned in the middle of my pattern because of the lines from the pattern on the back too.. Probably was just a cheap scanner being almost 20 years ago.. Haven't tried my new scanner/printer for this purpose maybe I should. The one back in the day that I had if ANY light at all seeped past the scanner lid it'd make a large black streak where the light was at making the pattern unrecognizable in that area.. I'd have the big sheet all folded up and have to hold down on the scanner lid the best i could to keep the light out, LOL.. the frustration was enough I just search out the designer and buy it if I want it that bad..

The few times I did scan a copy this is what I did.. but in order to get the paper pattern to fit into my scanner I'd have to fold it all up in a wadded mess to get the paper small enough to fit into the scanner.. then any of the other patterns I may want to use get creases in them and from there it's always been best to get a nice clean copy by just buying and downloading the pattern from the artist. You get much cleaner lines.. Though maybe it was old scanner issues.. as I haven't done this in years.. maybe scanner quality has improved a lot since 2005 ish.. but back then I'd get all kinds of light and dark areas in my scan because the lid of the scanner is lifted up from a 1/2 thick wadded up paper you stuff in trying to make a copy, LOL

Whenever I needed to scan one of those I scanned it right into the garbage can and found the original artist online and purchased the electronic file directly from them.. Now it's a file that is always there in my computer and several back-up drives just in case one crashes I'll still have the copy.. Learned that lesson the hard way... Just as Don said.. I quit subscribing many years ago due to those patterns being all on those huge sheets and on both sides.. so if you crinkle up for a pattern on the front you essentially ruin the pattern on the back side. I live in a pretty rural secluded area and it's a good 10 - 15 miles to a scanner that I also have to pay to use.. etc.. just seems most logical to me to look up the artist online and support them with buying the electronic file.. simple for me to use anytime I need it then, plus supports that artist..

Yes mine has a separator that came with the kit from Seyco.. https://seyco.com/product/dv-10a-cyclonic-action-scroll-saw-dust-collector/ I don't get a lot of dust but what little bit does get into the bag of the vac. as fine and powdery as it is it only takes a small amount of coating in that bag to slow down the air flow through the vac. I believe that needs "some" decent flow to cool the motor.. I used to be able to tell when the bag was a bit plugged with the dust because the vac keeps getting louder and louder. I also wonder if that foam that was in the exhaust port was restricting the flow.. the foam was only lined the outer part of the canister so it was still open through the middle.. I left the foam out of it this time to see if it'll last longer or if it's going to blow dust on through it.

I'm not sure on this really.. and I'm really not certain that it's anything to do with the switch on the ones I wear out since the motors lock up is what I have the problem with.. These Metro Vacs aren't designed to be a dust extractor.. and when I take them apart there is a pack of fine dust all around back behind the motor so in reality they aren't that great for collecting the dust.. Obviously there is "some dust" getting past the bag / filter and exiting the exhaust of the vac. I'm thinking mine burn up more from heat.. This fine dust usually packs into the bag and though it looks mostly empty you can tell the vac is working harder because it gets louder. The one I got from Seyco has a different exhaust port on the back and it's packed with foam.. I'm assuming it's to work as a muffler OR filter to help screen the fine dust that does escape. But the ones I got off eBay kinda have a blower on the back where you can hook a hose to use as a blower. I had been swapping the one from the Seyco onto the replacements I've been getting.. of coarse after cleaning the foam of dust etc.. but this time I'm going to experiment with just leaving the blower exhaust port on it as it's not really any louder so long as I put a piece of hose on it that it came with. I'm going to see but I'm betting the foam is restricting it and making it run hotter.

Yeah, that is what I was always thinking too.. which is why I just stick to these cheapy metrovac 500's.. I can get a replacement motor for around $80 but so far I've been lucky enough to find new open box ones on eBay for less than $40. I get a couple years out of one so that's not horrible, LOL

Well, those little vacuums aren't designed for this type of use.. Probably decent for the hobby user but in a commercial type setting save up and buy something that'll last or has a good warranty.. I knew going into one of these that would be the case.. They last just about the life of a Excalibur scroll saw.. as the first vacuum burnt up shortly after I rebuilt the saw the first time.. The saw is getting to that point again and last night out cutting some orders and the vacuum stopped working.. same deal.. motor locked up. Good thing I've been buying some spare vacuums off eBay.. I have 2 spares that were new in box returns etc.. and got them cheap.. like $15 for one and $25 for the other. Meanwhile I'm not sure how much more scrolling I'll continue doing as much of my stuff is turning over to laser work.. not sure I want to invest $500 into a festool or like vacuum if I'm cutting back on the scroll work anyway. Maybe just keep watching eBay for those little Metro Vac 500 vacuums to keep a spare around. LOL

forget they have these, I have a heavy duty metal one that I got at a shopping cart factory I worked at when I was a kid.. have my 5hp 60 gallon tank air compressor on it so I can spin it around to check the oil etc easier.

The best book is right here.. you come to the right place. Most books are written based off one person's interview or opinion.. Here you ask the question of which blade to use you'll get 40 different answers to choose from based on each person's sawing style and the projects they make. We can leave you way more confused than you were before.. I bet if you ask a blade seller what the most popular sold blade size and style is that could be a good start for a newbie.. I know I have about 50 different blade styles and sized in my shop but I mainly only use two different sizes of the same style for most all the projects I throw at my saw.. I would bet many others are the same way.. As has been mentioned.. sample packs is really the best place to start and then follow up with questions here when needed..

The pattern is still there in the link that Witchman posted.. scroll near the bottom and the download button is there.. I just downloaded it myself..

I know RBI Hawk used to sell a drip system for cutting glass and ceramic etc.. I'm not sure they offer that any more. I think Hegner sells a system still too.. not sure if these systems would work on other saws but the biggest concern I'd have is getting all that into the motor on some saws and then other saws have bearings etc exposed at the front.

Any ideas on how to make something like this out of wood. I was asked to make this but with a Salmon fish instead.. They're wanting it to be 11 x 16 ish so it's not something I could do on the laser.. could on the CNC I suppose but honestly think I'd rather scroll it out of some thin plywood. Photo shown is a printed canvas rather than wood. Years ago at a craft show I seen where they made photo things that went into a frame.. but nothing like this. I'd certainly need help with pattern on this.. Probably wouldn't attempt it if it wasn't going to be a gift for family.. but if I find a simple way to do it maybe it'll be a new product to offer, LOL

I used the scroll saw on these... some things are just faster with the scroll saw.. now if I knew how to use the CNC really well.. it might be faster but it'd probably take me 4 hours to figure out the best method to CNC them and it only took about 1.5 hours to saw them.

Custom order, This customer comes every year to me to make a different word every year for Christmas.. This years word was enough.. I guess they pass out the smaller ones to have the family or class whoever they're for place at home on a shelf or dresser and they go through the year with keeping the word in mind.. I'm not certain what they do exactly.. They've been a yearly returning customer since 2011.. Back then I really didn't want the job because they needed them by Christmas and only gave me like a few days to get the order made and in the mail.. specifically wanted pine and no finish because they wanted them fast... so I put what I thought was a steep price ($250) on it and they took it.. They started out with wanting only 16 small ones.. growing family now making 25.. I was the only person on Etsy they could find to do it within a short amount of time. The previous person doing them had abruptly stopped working for some reason and they scrambled to find someone.. which was me. Note: the Share word is one from 5 years ago and somehow was damaged so they wanted a replacement for that one.. so that is why there is a oddball in the mix, LOL

Yes, I looked at it from a cost per amp hour too and the 5-6 amp hour were the best deal looking at it that way.. Just to run a drill and flashlight and weight being a concern I went with a 2 amp hour. I don't want to hang a heavy drill off my belt and pull my pants off while trying to work is my biggest weight on the drill concern. It's not that I'm a weakling as I regularly use my sons 1" Milwaukee impact with 12 amp hour battery that weighs more than 4 of my drills.. but I'm not up in an attic, or on the roof with it hanging off my belt either..

I think I'm going to go with a 2 amp hour battery I found new in package for $28 free shipping.. The two older batteries work quite a long time in the flashlight which I use quite a lot too like every night. The one that came with my drill was only 1.3 amp hour so this is a bit bigger and probably better than what I have when it was new.. doubtful the weight is much more.

Was wondering about the weight of them and what differences they were, I did see several different battery types and was specifically trying to look at the standard 20V max which is what came with my drill. I wasn't sure if they were all interchangeable or not so thank you for clearing some of this up for me.

That's what I've been considering doing... I have finally found some more reasonable priced batteries for the DeWalt now that I've spent hours looking. I think the issue with dewalt is so many options.. Most batteries I've been seeing in my searches have been the bigger 5 amp hour or bigger.. I don't need that much battery for a drill I don't really use a lot.. The ones I have are only 1.3 amp hour and when new it lasted a good while and I used it a lot more back then. Last summer while building some projects that I used 3" deck screws on I could only put about 20 screws in and the battery was dead.. lucky I have two batteries so I just keep swapping them out and could get a job done okay still.. but I know I'm going to need to replace the batteries or get a new drill. Not really wanting the bigger batteries either as the larger they are the heavier the drill gets too. Okay for most of my uses but it could be tiring on a bigger job.. was amazed at how much heavier the drill was with the HF 5 amp hour battery on it with the adapter. Adapter is just a lightweight piece of plastic so it was all that bigger battery that made the difference

I'm in need of some new batteries.. it seems like my batteries are dying out very quickly.. as I would kind of expect for a 12 year old battery to do. I used to be lucky to get a year or slightly more out of the old Nicad batteries so when DeWalt came out with the 20V max lithium I bought a new drill.. think this was around 2011 - 12 ish.. Used to be some places that rebuilt the battery packs, is that still a thing and has anyone had it done? if so was it worth it? Next thing is, I've seen some offbranded "for DeWalt" batteries on eBay. Anyone have any experience with them? Anyplace a good place to order or go to to get a decent deal on these I'm all ears.. and welcome your thoughts on this. So far from what I'm seeing, the batteries are costing more than I paid for the drill with flashlight and two batteries back in the day.. also costing way more than the HF Bauer drill with batteries, plus I already have 3 of their batteries for other tools I have from them. Not sure if it's worth spending $100 + on batteries for the only DeWalt cordless tool I have.. I did buy an adapter so i could use the Bauer 20V batteries with my DeWalt drill.. been there done that and while it does work, the connection can get jarred around while using it and make the drill stop until I fiddle with the adapter / battery and that concerns me with burning something up with having it have a loose connection is not very good for neither the tool or battery. Maybe there is a better quality adapter out there?

Thanks everyone for your comments. I had to run some errands this morning and coming to a local hardware store I thought I'd swing in there real quick and see what they had.. $8 for a pair of them and they worked great.. I was worried about the stem length as mine that come of the vac seemed like they was pretty long compared to the ones I seen at the hardware but they worked great. @rjweb I want to do just that and put on some off-road tires so I can take it out in my driveway and vacuum the mudpuddles away.... No really those little tires in my gravel drive don't go very well and probably why they got torn up.. I like to vac the cars out and inside the shop it's hard to be able to see well enough with overhead lights so vacuuming out in the driveway just makes it easier.. Except it doesn't roll all that well.. so yeah I intend to make some sort of platform.. Come to think of it.. I have a old push mower that the motor crapped out on.. take the handle off it and mount the vac on top of the deck.. those bigger wheels would roll easier. I'm getting some real redneck hillbilly ideas now..

I like them both! well done..