kmmcrafts

I need to wire up a plug near the machine maybe I'll put it on a switch also.. as for right now I just have it hooked to an extension cord.. I been intending to run several outlets up above so I don't have cords running all over the floor.. safety hazard in a shop having power cords all over the floor.. I tried to place tools where they are close to power source and where the power cord doesn't run across a walkway.. This air filter came with a remote.. I just put the remote on my saw table and turn it on when I go in to run the saw.. If hooked to my light switch it'd be on even if I'm just there working on a car.. though I like that idea.. but also my wife would be on me about leaving the lights on after I leave the shop .. and me and her getting on the kids about leaving lights on would then be a double standard, LOL Mine has a built in timer as well.. 1-2-4 hour timer..

I sure wished I felt like I had too much room.. LOL.. But.. that said.. I know how you feel because back in 2012 when i put this shop up.. I only had a little 24 x 24 pole barn that I had to share with all the lawn / garden tools / tractors / kids bikes / and all the car repair tools sandblasting equipment etc etc.. Usually had to spend a half day moving stuff out to get a car in if I needed to do car repairs etc.. and at that time.. my woodworking tools consisted of.. a palm sander.. and a cheap table saw that I had for a long time.. my DeWalt 788 was parked in the house.. and I scolled inside... when winter comes around.. sometimes wish it were still in here, .. But the kicker was.. no sawing during TV time.. and.. no sawing when the kids went to bed... while scroll sawing generally isn't noisy.. in a quiet house at night.. well it was frowned upon... Many times I go out and saw at 1-2-3 am ... so I can spend time with the family during the daytime etc.. or play here on the village

Doesn't seem like there should all that much stress on those roll pins but maybe I'm wrong... or maybe your saw is different than mine.. But my clamps roll pin goes into the hole and the edge of it is notched and rest on the top of the accessory arm.. seems like that torque would be more so on that notched out area and the accessory arm..

The live edge stuff I have is from the sawmill next door.. and my brothers sawmill from up the road.. They was green when I was given the pieces about 5 years ago.. I've had these stickered up in the loft all this time.. Many of these have shrunk and the bark has peeled off and or.. many of them split too.. I'll be able to use them for some projects anyway.. and I actually saved them from being turned into wood chips.. I have some BIG 4-5 inch thick pieces that I have no idea what I'll do with them.. some are 20+ inch wide.. hate to cut them down to fit through my little 13" planer..

JT, glad you got it figured out. I never would have thought of those roll pins. My newer Hawk has that same style clamps so I’ll have to keep this in mind if I ever run into this.

I bought this two years ago and never even open the box until today when I finally decided it’s time to hang it up. Got a good deal on it but knew I wasn’t ready to put it up, but didn’t realize it’d be two years. Hopefully I hung it in a good spot. I need to adjust it some. Thinking the biggest thing I need is just to hook my dust collection up to all the machines. But anyway this should also help I hope.

Yeah, I know how that is Ray.. I'm the same way.. I hate seeing people throw out stuff that just needs minor repairs etc.. I've bought a lot of older Delta saws and repaired them and resold.. cars trucks tractors lawn mowers etc.. used to be a fun little side business.. but then it got around and before I knew it.. friends and family would just start picking up stuff and dropping it off.. I had enough of that.. I like picking my own stuff to repair.. luckily I also like to haul a load of scrap every now and then.. because a lot of it ended up at the metal recyclers.. They pay out by the pound.. and that place is a gold mine for people like you and me... I always hauled back about as much as I took in But it was good junk..

In my 25 years of marriage.. this sound like a case of one of the honey does on the list of things broke that she needs repaired has taken a back burner for way too long... Ray.. you may need to double check that list. I know what you mean though on projects.. I've got 2 old 1968 John Deere lawn / garden tractors.. One I brought home to restore back in 2006.. I have it torn down to just a frame.. have the frame and much of the other pieces all sandblasted and repainted.. most of which the tractor just needs reassembled.. The motor needs gone through yet.. anyway I stopped messaging with it back about 2007-8.. bought the second one that ran and worked good but looked rough.. used it for a few years but then the steering gearbox broke on it.. I actually have a spare.. took that tractor apart to replace the box.. and well.. that's where that one sits.. My business / hobby of scroll work and messing with saws.. seems to take most of my time. Not to mention I have 5 old Wheel Horse brand tractors in various stages of repairs too... Been thinking about selling the whole tractor collection and buying more wood shop tools.. LOL My grandpa was cleaning out his shop one day and throwing a lot of stuff out.. I asked about why he was throwing out good stuff... he said... If I haven't used / fixed it or plan to use or fix it in the next 6 months.. It's not worth the storage space.. This stuff I have... thankfully I have another hole shop just for the tractors and their parts etc.. so it's not taking up valuable shop space.. but plenty of moneys worth of tractors implements and parts that'd buy a few wood shop tools I'd really like to get.. Then free up that shop for... More wood stuff LOL

Glad it went well for you.. I need to try the show events some day..

Thank you.. I may have to mess around and see if i can hook up mine and see how it goes..

Bass wood is nice to work with.. My first scroll saw piece was from basswood.. Usually not much grain patterns to it though.. but nice cutting stuff.. sands easy too.. Anyway.. I also did a live edge piece the other day for my first time.. and I also posted this question.. maybe you can find our answer there.. Here is the link..

Is this the bigger roll around dust collector machine? or the smaller ones? I have the bigger roll around style that I have hooked to the planer and bandsaw... amazing how much sawdust comes from the bandsaw when resawing LOL.. Anyway I ask because I've read how these like I have are great for sawdust but not the real fine stuff.. so just wondering what you have and your experience with how well it does.. I keep thinking about piping it to my saw and seeing with my own eyes how well it does.. seems like if it had enough to suck those bigger chips from the planner it's work good with the fine dust.. That'd save a lot of money from buying the Festool.. other than I want to use the Festool for my sanders too.. LOL.. but until I get the extra funds.. I could use the HF machine.. if it works good.

I guess my set up is very much like JT's.. I clean every day sometimes twice a day.. I ran my shop vac on my EX via foot switch just as a test to see how it goes..

Almost all the time free shipping is not really free... BUT.. for some reason.. folks don't like taking the time or maybe know how.. to add it up.. so for online... you're going to see more and more places going to free shipping... and it's because.. people are searching for free shipping more than they are for the lowest price.. All the venues I sell at.. have been encouraging sellers to offer free shipping to get boosted in the searches.. so what do the sellers actually been doing? raising the price to offer free shipping so they get boosted in the search results... I haven't done it yet and not sure if I will.. sometimes following the crowd actually hurts you than standing on the last page by yourself. They've been encouraging this for quite some time.. not sure how my sales would differ had I went with the crowd.. but my sales have been much better than last year so I'm good.. They also always run these holiday sales on esty.. I'd do it sometimes and sometimes not.. Lots of people in the last sale so I stayed out.. bunch of complaints from sellers because of the way etsy had to filter search as so many jumped in on the sale.. I stayed out of the sale and had 15 orders in the three days, LOL... It's really comical to watch how seller react to things when they are hoping to get some business.. Most of the sellers look at short term things rather than long term..

While I agree with you 100%.. I also know that time is money to some people and you can spend $10-15 on tubing and an hour trying to figure out your set-up etc.. Not sure what some of you all charge or make per hour at your job.. but for me an hours time is that $50... so then you ask yourself.. do i play around and try to make something... or do i just pend $50 and be done with it...

I was always wanting to build a copy of one of those.. My issue is.. I never seem to find the time or want to spend that time actually tinkering around to make it.. I probably should just buy the darn thing, LOL... That said though.. I think I've only used my DeWalt one time this year and i didn't even do a complete cut on it then moved to a different saw, LOL I will say that I hooked up my shop vac to my Excalibur dust port thing below the table.. and Yeah.. it keeps the dust WAY down.. I'm glad to hear from someone that has it.. Seyco sells a dust extractor thing that an hang right on the saw.. is small and quiet.. I keep thinking about that thing as opposed to a shop vac.. and I've also thought about those expensive Festool dust extractors.. My shop vac works great.. just too noisy for my taste.. I talked with the Rep and they demonstrated the Festool last month for me... awesome machine but wow is it pricey..

If you used Red loc-tite.. I doubt the set screws moved.. Red is for permanent or for large bolts.. I use the blue which is for a tight hold but will move with tools but not vibrate out etc.. I'll be curious what you find out though.. so many variables of what could cause this from worn slots where the lower blade holder sits.. to roll pins that holds the upper clamp to the arm or even the bearings at the back of the saw... Also can be a bad bearing in the connecting rod ( my 226 did this) .. that goes from the motor to the lower arm.. I took the bolt out of the arm and found that upper end bearing was dry of grease and stiff moving.. funny how that little bit of drag caused that blade to get that blur look.. Good luck and let us know what you find..

Ray, they all have their good and bad points.. I like the DeWalt's Ex's etc etc.. I didn't like my Hawk for the longest time.. almost sold them.. but I kept on Trying to get used to them... why? because they are very well built... easy repairs / maintenance etc.. Being a production cutter all the saws I've had perform well and is more of a comfort zone opinion for me on the saws.. The two biggest points about the Hawk that sets it above the other ( for me ) is.. The blade mounting system is a no brainer once you get the hang of it.. Once the saw is set up correctly.. the blade mounts in the clamp the same every time.. no fuss no muss LOL.. Once you have the upper arm set to the height where it bottoms out every time the same place on the blade.. In the DeWalt Ex type saws.. one flaw that annoys me ( production cutting ) is the fact that you have to always.. lift the arm up.. Not a BIG deal but do that production cutting for 6-8 hours I have the Jim Dandy easy lift on my dewalt.. which is awesome.. but there is no such thing that I am aware of for the EX.. In the DeWalt / Ex type saws.. the blade can be moved up or down in the clamp ( ie every time you change the blade that blade could be mounted differently ).. not a big deal really.. One thing on the Ex / dewalt is there is slop in the upper lower arm and blade clamps.. so you have a learning curve to get the same tension every time.. for me.. I have to push down on the upper arm when lowering it at the same time as clamping the blade to get the tension good.. again.. not a big deal and comes natural at some point.. but again.. doing it production cutting for a while.. It's only milliseconds.. but why waist time at all if you don't have to.. The Hawk clamp has a bottom out in the lower clamp.. mount the blade.. the upper arm has a stop and once adjusted correctly that blade is mounted the same way every time... that tension is no guesswork every time.. Once you remove the tension and release the blade on the Hawk.. the upper arm is spring loaded and moves up out of the way on it's own.. Break a blade.. the upper arm pops up and says.. put in a new blade NOW.. lets get moving LOL Maintaining the saw is a 30 second job once a week for me.. but then.. not really any maintaining to a DeWalt / Ex unless you want to spend a half day taking it apart or just run it until you have an issue.. These are in no way a huge deal.. especially to a hobbyist cutter.. but once you get used to the Hawks system.. and go back to the other saws.. you figure out how spoiled the Hawk really did make you. LOL

Yeah, I'm looking forward to hearing if this changes in the up / down stroke at all.. If the set screws have moved.. the blade can still be square in one of the other position at the table level.. I once had this sort of issue.. and it turned out to be the blade was off when the arms were raised all the way up.. turned out to be the lower set screw had moved lightly.. but the saw running the blade would look blurry so to speak.. If the blade is square in both up and down position.. and still doing this.. it could actually be bearing or thrust washers Also that back wedge gets worn and sill change the tension of the blade during the stroke and really only shows up when the saw is running.. I've sharpened my wedge using some sandpaper and a flat surface.. BUT.. you can only do that so many times before the arm where that wedge rides needs to be re-machined..

Just for fun.. since I don't ship large stuff much any more.. and I know they've raised prices considerably..since I used to mail tractor parts.. cost for non commercial rate to ship 70lb from MI to California is $138.. Guess I've been out of the loop on heavy stuff for many years. as about 2007 ish I quit selling parts.. Now I have a small commercial discount from that price compared to most because of business and I believe my discount is 10%... Also... it's my understanding that many BIG business just pay a yearly premium and the shipping companies have to ship all they mail out.. contract deal.. In reality.. they might be shipping it free if they've sent a lot of products.. I do see what you're saying though.. and yes.. very happy to get free shipping on things I buy.. Studies show that many people shop online and only looking at the FREE shipping option.. even though many times the item might actually cost more over all than someone selling a lower priced item with cheap shipping... This is something I'm planning to add to my website soon.. Raising the price enough to cover shipping and offer free shipping.. since that is what the majority of shoppers look for.. so much so that many places.. eBay Etsy etc have a shipping filter to filter search results to only show items with free shipping, LOL.. so many people use that filter for free shipping. that it's starting to become the standard for search now.. so those that charge shipping are getting the last of the pages in search results.. most people that do a search only look 1-4 pages before rephrasing their search to get different results if they can't find exactly what they are looking for.. JUST A FYI .. not that you care, but someone might find that FYI informational. LOL That saw is such a good deal I'm surprised you not ordering one..

The 16" saw weighs 68lbs.. just 2 pounds from the USPS limit.. I believe shipping for non commercial rate for this would be around 60 - 70.. UPS and FedEx is lower cost shipping on heavier items than USPS.. so.. Also remember that.. most all retail pricing is marked up 200+%.. selling online.. they don't have to pay for inventory and display space in a physical store... They do have website fees and processing fees though.. but for the most part.. they also have those same fees in a actual store now days with everyone using a debit / credit card.. anyway in the whole scheme of things.. they probably only pay $200 at most for the saw that they probably don't even lay any hands on.. short of a electronic sale and drop shipped from a warehouse from some where.. On a side note. that's probably about the best price you'll see on a NEW Ex-16.. Never know what Black Friday Deals might end up being.. though...

That's what i was looking for.. something for the live edge.. I will probably coat the whole thing but first want to make the grain pop.. so may wipe it down good with Danish oil or I do have a little BLO / Mineral spirit mix left.. may use it.. was also thinking spray lacquer.. but actually I think the poly on the edges might be a better way..

And all this time I've been striving to be as good as you.. Maybe we all just need to relax a bit and cut things..who cares if we run off the line a little.. that's what make the piece our own custom design.... sometimes we have a bon fire with ornamental fire wood.. at the end of the day.. and roast marshmallows.. so no matter what.. the day ends with a good time..

I use the "wordart" font a lot for my patterns.. simply because it's readily available and is a program to be installed on the computer to be able to run that text in any of the select pattern making software I happen to be using.. I hate nothing more that cutting and taping text onto my pattern to make it work for me.. It's okay for a one time project or have done it then run it through my scanner to save a copy for later use.. but sure is more time consuming that manipulating the text within one of the pattern programs.. I like many of those fonts that looks to be from Charles Dearing.. I heard a rumor that he is getting out of selling patterns.. but will continue to do custom work or something like that..

Back before I bought my first Hawk... I was looking pretty seriously at the Delta.. until that Hawk showed up for $100 I probably would have bought the Delta.. They are a lot cheaper and basically the same machine..