kmmcrafts

If you read the last sentence of his post.. he is saying he wants something that he can have a child with disability to glue it together.. such as a wooden model car etc... Don't think a portrait style pattern is what he's looking for.. Quote from his last sentence.. "I'm trying to make this for a lad with learning disabilities and I want to get him to glue it and Finnish it as a treat."

I've got to ask.. are you looking for puzzle patterns or something like a model car type pattern? You mentioned so the lad could glue it together so I don't think we have anything here in the pattern library on this site.. But if puzzle patterns you could buy some patterns from Scott at www.woodcraftbyscott.com Hope I got that right.. believe he has several car / truck and maybe tractor patterns.. Below is a photo of a couple of puzzles I did from him..

Steve Good has a 4x4 truck pattern that is really quite simple to make and really cool once done.. And the good thing is.. the pattern is free.. Check out http://www.stevedgood.com/catalog/index.php Not sure where the link will take you but do a search for truck.. there is a couple toy type patterns there that might suit your needs..

I have to agree with you... The people on this forum are awesome.. and without them.. I wouldn't be the scroller I am now... LOL BTW. Nice work area..

Also a bottom feeder and do only fretwork... But I will say.. I have read about the induction motors not liking fretwork... But.. I'm really doubting anyone really has burned up a motor because of fretwork..

I tried to use my arbor press.. but I didn't have enough room between the bottom and top of the press.. and didn't really want to cut my roll pin punch down just for that job... and couldn't find anything that'd work either

Thank you JT... Yeah I have done the added detail a few times.. and had very good results.. I really cut this thinking it would look great as is.. but once cut.. i think it would have looked better had I added the detail..

Yes, I should have mentioned that I took the arm off... pulling and hammering a pin out with the arm on would be asking for trouble for the arm or bearings as that is a long arm that when pulling or hammering on puts a lot of torque... and as for hammering the pin out... don't need to whale on it just tap on it lightly.

I changed the whole upper tension mechanism on my old 220VS which required removing the pin that holds it on.. but never needed to change the blade clamp itself.. I used a pin punch ( bought a set from Harbor Freight ) and used two blocks of wood to put right close to either side of the pin so I wouldn't be bending the arm or something.. and first soaked it good for a day or so with PB Blaster.. came right out..

Thank you! Maybe I should change the name from KevsKrafts to Classix Car Clocks... LOL I had thought about starting a new business with a new name etc..

Thank you!!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you, Do wish i could find a little more detailed design.. but this is what I had LOL

Thank you!

So.. I ended up getting the pyrography set from the estate I had talked about the other day... $35 was worth it to me to try.. the cheap soldering iron type ones run about that much.. and this is a pro set.. Doing some research on what exactly I got turns out the company closed up.. not sure when.. But at any rate I found in the bottom of the tools plastic case.. the original receipt from 1989.. so it's older than I though.. It's a Detail Master lll I didn't take a photo of it yet but while researching came across the same thing on ebay so i'll show that one.. I got at least 6-8 pens with it.. had to go play around and found that the thing has heat at the tip about as soon as it comes on.. unlike my old soldering iron style.. Anyway.. happy camper with it... much easier to control etc.. I also found that there are adapter cables to use other brand pens with.. so even though they are no longer in business.. I can still get new pens etc.. Always wanted to try the professional burning tools but too expensive to buy just to try them.. until now .. Oh.. I did make a $50 offer on the Hegner they have.. probably won't know for a few days on that one..don't care either way on that.. since it's such a small one and not really what I'd want in a saw anyway.. if it doesn't sell in the sale they did say I'd end up with it anyway.. same with all the wood they have. we'll see. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DETAIL-MASTER-III-MODEL-8124-C-TESTED-WORKS/292321905477?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Well Ray is probably the best option.. just thinking though.. if it is a potentiometer and you are able to solder the two wires on.. the part for my Hawk was a whopping $4 with free shipping off ebay..LOL... Hawk wanted to sell me the whole switch assembly for about $150 ... I know... not the same saw.. but those potentiometers are pretty universal.. I think.. and you can't really wire them wrong.. if it's wired backwards.. the switch just works backwards.. High is low and low is high, LOL.. Don't ask how I know that.. LOL

I'm not too up on electronics and motors etc.. but thought maybe you should check the motor brushes... I'm pretty sure these do not have the normal potentiometer like my Hawk has.. I think it's probably had the micro chip deal and the little circuit board.. to control the speed.. This is doing about the same thing as my jointer is doing and in my case it's the circuit board.. and of coarse no longer available from Delta... that said I crossed the part number and found that the Porter Cable took the same one and is still available through them.. just not sure $150 would be better spent for a upgraded jointer for me in my case.. Anyhow, I hope yours is just some brushes or maybe more simple like dust getting into the thing.. Sorry I have no solid advice.. but do check the motor brushes first..

Beautiful work JT.. I also remember where I was.. this happen on my 8th wedding anniversary we was headed into town to celebrate our day together and heard the news come on the radio.. ended up canceling our plans and came home and watched the news on TV all day..

You mentioned about the blades dulling fast... that is the same issue I had with a some flying dutchman blade I had received last year... which is partly hat made me go to the Pegas brand.. I still use the FD blades from time to time and ran out of those...bought another gross and they are good and sharp and also last a long time again... must be some bad ones we got.. I also had some of the Pegas that broke like Jim mentioned... I thought it was maybe my saw set up.. as from time to time I have to re-adjust the tension .. I wonder if it has something to do with the quality of steel they get n at the blade making factory.. Doubt it's something on the production end of the blade making but I suppose it could be..

Well in looking at the video I seen last night.. ( I believe the same one Jim posted ) .. I thought it'd be easy to probably make up something on my own.. I have the opportunity to buy what I think is a 14" Hegner from 1984.. before the estate sale starts that I mentioned in another post.. Think I can probably get the saw for about $50.. not that I need another one but.. LOL always wanted a Hegner.. rather have a larger one with the release at the front.. I just got the call from them on the razertip pyrography set for $35 .. it's the single burner one but comes with a ton of pens etc.. anyway.. keep thinking about snagging the saw if the deal it good enough.. wish I had got there before the guys paster came and just took a boatload of the better stuff plus the guys Cadillac.. guess he didn't feel he had to pay for any of it either and from the sounds of it.. there are some that feel it was wrong.. I don't know the situation and maybe the guy owed the paster some money or something.. Guess that is what I get for not going sooner... as I knew about it for a couple weeks.. didn't figure there was a chance to get this kind of deals on the machines.. I thought the guy had some family that would be wanting high dollar for the stuff... turns out.. no family other than a mentally slow daughter that lives in a home..

Anyone here use this upgrade for the older Hegners that do not have the up front quick tension release? Just wondered because I somehow ran across this upgrade for the older saws that I didn't know they had... I have walked away from a lot of older Hegners that was a good deal because of only having the release done by turning the back tension screw to release and re tension.. which in my book is worthless for fretwork that I mostly do... Now. still having to reach back there to the back of the saw isn't all that pleasing.. but doable to just get my hands on a Hegner to play around with if I find the right deal on a older one worth the price of the saw and the upgrade LOL.. https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/m14-e-m2-part-number-012l-quick-release-tension-rod-1

Very nicely done... I also saved that pattern when the daily newsletter came with that pattern.. still haven't cut it yet though..

You need to mount some bigger wheels ( like smaller lawn mower wheels) up higher on the stand.. so when the stand setting on the ground for doing work the tires would be just off the ground.. but to move the saw tilt it back so the tires will roll.. I wouldn't suggest any scroll saw to be resting on wheels all the time.. that is asking for vibration issues.. I've thought about buying one of these for my Hawks.. and maybe the other saws.. I bought one for my big band saw when I purchased it... sure glad I did as that thing is very heavy..I'd never be able to move it without scratching the floor sealer all up in my shop.. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/D2057A Harbor freight has a cheaper build your own kit.. https://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-capacity-mobile-base-95288.html Not real sure how well one would do on a scroll saw because I can't remember if all four corners have the feet or not.. I thought my bandsaw one has the legs on all four.. but this picture shows it looks like it'd set on two of the wheels while it raises the other two off the ground.. Anyway.. Something with some threaded legs to adjust to get the wheels off the ground and have the saw / stand setting firmly on the ground would be what I would try to achieve on any saw stand homemade or factory.. if I needed to have wheels to move it around.. Edit to say: My older Hawk came with wheels on the stand.. I thought it would be a real nice addition to be able to roll it around.. I could never get it to set firmly on the floor and not get added vibration.. took them off and bought some adjustable furniture gliders and got all four feet planted firm on the ground.. runs nice and smooth after that..

I've had a 68 fastback clock for a while now.. and have been wanting to add the coupe one day but never could find a great pattern to make one.. while I don't hate this pattern I found.. but I don't really love it either..especially don't like where there is no lines where the door would be and the tire / wheel area needs something as now they kind of flow into the body.. anyway here is a new one for my website..