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Everything posted by kmmcrafts
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First time I taped mine.. I did as you with just the masking tape... however the tape shortly started ripping from using the switch.. yes.. I use the switch from time to time even though I have a foot switch.. before you know it the tape was funneling the dust down to the switch, LOL.. so then i used the palm of a latex glove cut it out so it completely covered the switch.. then taped the edges of the glove down.. this allows the use of the switch still without ripping / cracking the tape... This works for about 6-8 years before needing to replace the latex piece.. Like I said.. I use the switch on the saw when working on the saw or tuning it etc.. when standing.. some large cuttings I have to stand so i use the saw switch instead of my foot switch.. as I have my foot switch mounted to the lower portion of the deWalt stand.. where it's perfect when sitting on my stool.. but pretty awkward if I'm standing to reach my foot on that lower ledge of the stand.. I have the click on click off switch on the DeWalt.. I prefer this style over the one I have to keep my foot on.. and it's also nice for using the saw while standing.. as I can just kick it on and then use the saw switch.. without having to disconnect everything..
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Yeah I sure am.. can't afford to miss it.. I've been out of Cherry lumber for quite some time... I'm hoping to go Friday morning after I take my kids to school.. That said. I might have to make another trip on Saturday .. You planning to go? Really hoping the rain and storms we've been having here along with the heat and humidity are done before the Expo..
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I also love my Excalibur.. but not so much until I upgraded to the Pegas blade chucks... though many people mentioned they thought I must have had a defective upper chuck.. which I sort of think so myself too...
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That's awesome everyone!!! We Did It Again!!! We got another scroll sawer hooked.. LOL Congrats, on all the new equipment too.. sounds like you've got a good selection to start playing around with.. enjoy.. and show off some pictures of your work...
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This what you need ?? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-CSS400B-Scroll-Draw-Spare/dp/B0184YIXS4
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CNC Projects.. Can Be Scrolled As Well
kmmcrafts replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I thought it'd be neat to do wood burning photos. etc.. I seen a guy at a craft fair last year that did woodburning.. then he took the burning and cut jigsaw puzzles from them with his scroll saw.. was hard to tell they was puzzles because he followed the lines etc of the burning pictures.. I also would use it more for engraving and burning rather than cutting.. i don't like the burnt looking edges they leave behind.. Can engrave many different materials.. so I think one would be fun to toy around with.. -
CNC Projects.. Can Be Scrolled As Well
kmmcrafts replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Yeah that's right... most of my car clocks I make started out as a DXF file for CNC machines.. I use a lot of these patterns because 1) I'm not good enough to design my own pattern from scratch.. and finding designers to take on some of my things I like to cut is far and few between... I like to make the clocks and ornaments.. not so much for portraits.. which is what I find mostly in the scroll saw pattern world.. So I buy the CNC designs and I've downloaded a DXF file viewer where I can ( long work around but) turn it into a SVG or whatever file I like.. then I can go to inkscape and create the design as I see fit.. adding the spot for the clock and most times.. adding text at the bottom.. Usually the text is telling what the car is.. For what it's worth... most all the CNC artist will create a file type for you.. I started asking them if they'd make them PDF or SVG and explain that I don't need all the fancy stuff since I cut by hand.. Most of them are happy to make a few extra $$ to change it up for you.. They are many times in awe that my things are created by hand too.. which many times create conversation and a new friend. I tell a lot of them that they need to look into doing scroll saw type drawings as we are always looking for new designs etc.. Now.. speaking of CNC lasers... I've been toying the idea of buying one just to play with for the last 3-4 years... almost bit the bullet a few times but then back out.. I enjoy doing my work by hand.. I have heard a scroll saw can stack cut items ( for production ) faster than the CNC laser could cut.. while the laser might cut 1 faster than you can with a scroll saw.. but the advantage is.. you can stack 4-6 at once.. laser has to do just 1 at a time.. I don't know how true that is..... One advantage with a laser is.. you can get several machines running at once.. though as do not have to be right there doing one machine at a time.. though you wouldn't want to leave one unattended too long as they can catch fire etc.. -
Yes I know, but I think a lot of them don't like it because they like to top feed... Steve Good reviewed the saw and mentioned how he liked the set up but didn't like it also as it wasn't what he was accustomed to.. which gave the saw a bad rap in my opinion.. Used to be a lot of talk about how people don't like the barrel clamps of the Hawks too.. and how the older Hawks aren't top feed etc.. I think this is a big reason why the Hawk G4 was talked about so much.. as it is top or bottom feed..with a few other improvements.. but the biggest and most talked about is... Top feeding.. For me.. I am a bottom feeder... I am use to the barrel clamps of my Hawk.. so I could probably slide right in and go.. comfortably on the Jet with no issues.. There is a learning curve to those saws with removable clamps that those that are not used to that.. they absolutely hate fussing with that little clamp and having to take it out and put it into the slot / tool to remove and replace the blade.. etc etc.. I remember when I first got my old Hawk.. I thought those removable clamps was about the dumbest thing.. but.. once I gave it a good bit to learn to use the saw.. I've found how much nicer it really is to be able to have several sized blades loaded and ready to go.. and an switch out from a straight blade to a spiral for veining etc.. I think most dislike the Jet clamping system because they have given up before really giving them a go for a good 100 or so hours of use.. I almost gave up n the Hawks at one point.. because I was so accustomed to the way the deWalt cut..
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I've really wanted to try the new Jet saw.. I like that it has that removable lower clamp.. like the Hawk has.. but the upper clamp is what really seems like would make an awesome fretwork saw.. because of the tension and blade clamping is done in the same single set.. I've contemplated selling both my Hawks and the new Excalibur just to buy one of those new Jets.. but hate to do that if I didn't like it , LOL.. and.. I certainly couldn't get another deal on these same saws I have that I got on them.. should I not like the Jet and want my old Hawks back.. LOL One day I'll find a deal on a Jet or at least get the opportunity to run one
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Many times with looking for designs I will search for CNC laser etc plans.. Ran across this etsy seller that has some really cool designs that might interest someone here so I thought I'd share... I like the Harley lamp design.. But anyway.. check some of these designs out.. I'd like to try a few of them but.. wrong time of year right now for me to "play " as I need to get ready for the holiday shoppers.. https://www.etsy.com/shop/ProjectsForCnc/items
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If you go to the Hawk web site they have a couple of videos on setting up the saw.. they also talk about some of the upgrades they have done over the years etc.. I thought they had three or four videos that gave more history on the older saws.. but maybe that was a dream, LOL.. as now they primarily talk about the difference between the Ultra saw and the new BM series saws... I think each video is around 20 minutes but there can be a lot to learn from these if you have interest in some of the things they've done to improve the saws etc.. For the videos you'll have to scroll down a little ways.. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com/WebsitePages/The-Hawk-Scroll-Saw.html
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I used to play with them a little.. never did get real good at it.. but then.. I was only about 10 years old.. My older brothers used them to do custom paint jobs on cars.. when done they'd let me play with the leftover paint in some scrap hoods and fenders etc.. My father used them on paper to create scenery for his scroll saw projects.. he'd paint the top of the backer blue for the sky and green for grass etc etc.. and then glue it to the back of his cuttings.. made them really pop with a scene on the background of some of those cuttings he did.. He played a lot with the 2 - 3 dimensional cuttings where you cut think wood and create from several types of wood to create a dimensional scene..
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At some point Hawk redesigned the arms on their saws to give them more strength.. it is mentioned in one of their videos on their web site.. I'm guessing this might be what you are seeing with these two saws.. Do the arms look the same? If I remember right one style of their arms had hollowed out holes through them to lighten them up.. and the other style they did like an I beam down to lighten it up.. and give it more strength..
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I center the blade as best I can on both top and bottom clamps.. then I use a small square to set the table to the blade.. then I use that square and manually raise and lower the saw through a cutting stroke with the square next to the blade to see that the blade is square to the table throughout the blade stroke.. I then adjust the anvil ( set screw ) either top or bottom so the blade it plumb to the table in both top and bottom clamps.. If you don't have a small square that will fit under the arm through the blade stroke a credit card or something comes in handy as a straight edge LOL
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Well one thing in my experience with the stock clamp is the sliding part never worked very smooth.. so.. it never really un released the tension to the same spot every time.. so each time I did a fret cutout and went to the next hole.. the tension for the next hole was different than what I have previously set it at in my first install of the blade. and each time I change to a new fret to cut... I never had consistent tension every time all the time like I do with my Hawk saws.. One thing to note too.. the two pieces of the stock clamp that the one slides on the stationary one was a very sloppy fit together.. and was always getting cockeyed and jammed up and sticking.. probably some slick dry lube or something could have done wonders maybe for that stock clamp.. I just feel this design is very sloppy on the stock clamp for a... what most would say is a higher end saw.. certainly not high end in my book with the poor clamping design.. otherwise the saw seems to be made very well.. Hawk / Hegner quality? No way!.. nice saw to use? Yes once I replace that clamp to the Pegas upgraded clamp.. So with that all said.. I too had trouble with mounting the blade in the clamp.. because my upper clamp didn't always release in the same position every time.. and you cannot see the blade way back there in the clamp to know where it's positioned at.. which your method sounds like it would work well.. and I think it could have been just a learning curve for many that are new to the saw.. In my case.. many have mentioned that I may have had a defective clamp.. could be I don't know.. I do know the design itself was very poor in my book.. the way it fit together to the fixed piece.. defective? Maybe.. and I hope so really.. if all of them are just made this sloppy I would think there would be many more complaints about this.. Most I've read is stripped out threads.. and I see that for the DeWalts as well.... though I've run my DeWalt for 10 years every day and 2 years on and off after that.. and it still has the same clamps and thumb screws etc...
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Those are very nice.. love your corner work on them.. great idea..
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coolpad phones are the worst and cheapest
kmmcrafts replied to amazingkevin's topic in Bragging Rights
You been a little busy? LOL.. Great work as always.. -
Awesome cuttings!! I like both very much.. but that Indian.. Wow! I'm not a huge motorbike enthusiast... but just love to see details in a cutting like this.. those fine details is what make a image just pop.. coming from a sawyer as well I can see how these types of cuttings can test your patients... but the gratitude of a job well done when finished is priceless.. I've cut a few ( very few ) of these type of cuttings.. the WoW factors you get when people see it makes it so worth the effort.. Great job!
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As Scott said.. you can see the top of the blade as the upper clamp is really designed similar to the DW788 in than aspect.. I have to be honest.. before buying the pegas clamp I was really not impressed with the Excalibur.. and was going to sell it.. Now I've been using it instead of the Hawk.. I like the more aggressive cutting ( faster ) than the Hawk.. yet I can tune the blade movement to be able to do those tight inside corners with ease.. and have a faster cutting saw. the original clamps was a pain for me to put blades in.. and might not have been so bad had I been a top feeder.. but dealing with the upper clamp on every fret... made me want to throw the darn saw in the trash can, LOL Now the blade changes are much like I'm used to with the DeWalt..
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Congrats on the new saw Travis.. I'd second the motion on getting the Pegas chuck upgrade... very much worth it and in my case.. kept me from selling the saw..
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Yes, I also been there done that with my DeWalt.. why they never put a dust cover over the switch is beyond me.. other than cost cutting.. LOL Before I got the foot switch.. I took a old latex glove and cut it up to make a cover for my switch and taped it on.. never an issue after doing that.. I might suggest if blowing the switch out gets it working.. do something similar and you should be good to go.. then it might save you from having the switch short out and burn up.. and then needing a new one..
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I started off with a old Delta two speed 16" saw model 40-560 I think it was.. still have it as it was my Fathers first saw.. Then that broke and while waiting on parts to repair it I borrowed my brothers Ryobi and I think it was a SC164VS.. Saved some money and bought a 16" craftsman not sure the model but had a angle guide built into the table.. not sure why I mention this saw because I never used it.. brought it home and unboxed it.. thing vibrated right off the bench almost.. and the variable speed wasn't working.. so I packed it back up and took it back.. saved a little more money and bought a Dremel 1800 that had the disc sander on the side.. used it for about a year and wore out the connecting rod at the back of the saw that connects the upper and lower arms.. ordered parts and repaired it and within 6 months it was getting worn again.. so saved up and bought my DeWalt ran it for about 3 years before needing a rebuild.. Bought an old Delta SS350LS to use while rebuilding the DeWalt.. That Delta was a nice saw.. but I sold it for some reason.. Then when my trusty old DeWalt was starting to get noisy again.. I started looking for a back-up saw.. wanted a higher end saw to just keep as a back-up.. bought my old Hawk 220VS 3 years ago and did upgrades to it.. Kinda been using it since.. Then I found the deal on the 226 Ultra and then not too long after than I found the deal on the new Excalibur EX-21 that I couldn't refuse.. All of this said.. of my experience If I could only have one saw.. t'd be a tough call between my Hawks and the Excalibur.. Now that I bought the Pegas upgrade blade holders.. I love the Excalibur.. Before the upgraded blade chucks.. it'd have been the Hawk hands down.. and would still be the Hawk if the Hawk was as aggressive cutting as I am accustom to.. since the Hawk is slightly slower cutting.. I choose the Excalibur.. both are easy to do blade changes.. If you are accustom to cutting on the less aggressive saw.. you may want to stick with a Hawk.. as you may find the Ex types saws may cut faster than you are wanting to.. you can do things to slow it down though as it's much easier to adjust blade speed or go to less aggressive blade etc.. Harder to go from a aggressive cutting saw when you're used to cutting fast and then go to a less aggressive saw and want to go faster.. I think the Hawk saw would be a good one to teach your daughter to saw on.. because they are less aggressive cutting and it's easier to get those sharp turns and corners on one of the Hawks than the Ex style saws.. Good luck on whatever you decide..
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If I'm in a car like this... I do my best to sit in the drivers seat..
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Very nicely done.. I've cut / sold a lot of those.. I make desk clocks out of this design.. It's a pretty easy quick one to do.. the toughest part is those louver things at the back window area.. especially if you don't have a small drill bit.. though I shrink the pattern down some which makes those cutouts smaller too.. Great job!
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My 226 has the line-loc blower hose but the older style clamp.. My old 220 I upgraded to the line loc and it made a world of difference.. then a year later my upper tension mechanism wore out and so I upgraded to the new BM style.. I personally like the older style better.. and personally wouldn't upgrade it unless it is worn out and needs it.. Not really much difference in using the two different styles.. just something about that BM style upper system i don't really care for.. as far as the way it's designed..
