kmmcrafts

Welcome to the village.. I'm also from Michigan.. we have a few from Michigan on here..

I've never used 1/4 plywood for portrait work.. I usually use 1/8" Baltic birch plywood.. much stronger and higher quality than a normal plywood.. with 1/8" you can stack cut 4-5 boards together at one time.. I've never used a spiral blade any larger than a #3.. and that is pretty rare.. Typically use a #0/1 or a #1 .. I mostly use flat blades but will use spirals from time to time.. I like Flying Dutchman spiral blades.. usually the "New Spirals" I bought a sample of Pegas spirals.. I do like Pegas blades.. I think Pegas blades run on the small side from the other blades I've used n spinals anyway.. Most online places that sells blades have a recommended usage description.. also a size chart for each size blade to get an idea.. not all brands and styles of blades use the same size by number configuration.. so a #4 Olsen blade will most likely be a different size blade that a #4 Pegas or other brand / style.. blade... Making portraits from 1/8 BB ply and then adding a 1/8 backer still allows the portraits to still fit in many picture frames.. You can paint the backers if using the same wood.. or use a regular 1/8 plywood from a contrasting color.. if the piece isn't too fragile.. you can also use a foam sheet or colored paper to ad color to the background of the picture..

Cut a couple of these out yesterday , then got the idea of making ornaments from the pattern. I did modify the pattern some but not too much, mostly just around the letters to sort of separate them. This is a pattern from the woodimals cd I purchased last year. Puzzles are made from Poplar and the base I colored with dark walnut Danish oil. The ornaments are 1/8 BB Ply with Danish oil. I copied the pattern and saved as jpg and then right clicked the file, selected print then in the photo print options I printed it as a 3x5 inch and print 4 of them to a sheet of paper. I resize a lot of patterns for wall hanging into ornaments this way. Anyway enjoy the photos. BTW I did both with cropped ears and without. Only got these two pictures for now.

I buy mine local in the 60 x 60 inch square size.. I have them cut it into 3rds so it's easier handling on my small table saw.. They do it for free if it takes them less than 5 minutes.. I've always read that the 4 x 8 sheets is not real BB just birch plywood.... There use to be a website where you could find local distributors of lumber and plywood etc.. Can't think of the name of it now Edited to add: I just realized you're from west Michigan.. Not sure how close to Charlotte you are but I buy most my supplies from LL Johnson lumber out of Charlotte Mi.. They have a yearly " Wood Expo " where they run sales on lumber and plywood's etc.. and have demonstrations, tool sales etc.. I try to by my years worth of supplies during this expo.. And.. it just so happens to be coming up in September.. I don't know the dates off the top of my head but.. you can google them for their web site and they should have something on there about it.. Usually first part of Sept. Last year the 1/8" BB ply in the 60 x 60 size was like $12 a sheet normally runs about $15.00 I think.. Expo is Sept. 7-8 http://www.theworkbench.com/expo.php

I just noticed it's about time to empty my saw dust can from my dust collection.. mostly from my planner or bandsaw.... got me to thinking.. what do you all do with your saw dust.. My brother's lumber mill is just a few mile up the road so I take it to his big saw dust pile.. since he sells saw dust by the big dump truck loads.. mostly to horse farms etc.. That said.. this time I cannot dump it because I planned some walnut and also did some glue-ups and walnut is toxic to horses... not sure about the glues but I assume it shouldn't be used for animal bedding etc.. anyway.. I have about 6 cans I use.. and once they get full i load them in my truck and take them to my brother.. just thought about it today because my 6th can is half full and I need to do some planning.. Anyway, it's fairly easy for me to empty my saw dust cans.. usually... brother is okay with me dumping walnut.. but he needs to know ahead of time so he doesn't deliver that batch to a farmer.. So what do you do with all your saw dust..

Hawk recommends a light oil for the bearings and bushings as well... but they recommend a dry lube for the front tension release cam area and I think the wedge at the back of the saw.. I've been using just oil.. as that's what the manual says.. however I've seen mention that Hawk now recommends the dry lube.. so I don't know.. I think Brad was one that mentioned he used the dry lube per Hawks recommending it to him.. I thought I'd give it a try and a short test run and check for wear etc.. and see how it goes.. I know the oil collects all the dust and dirt.. etc.. and i don't too much care for that.. and the grimy look that it leaves behind.. after a few hours of cutting

Okay here is some pictures , not sure you can see the set screw in this clamp opposite of the thumb screw. Then there is the picture of the hole for your blade changes, then I took one with the clamp in the hole for doing a blade change. The other pictures are of the two slots in which you set the blade holder into in the lower arm. The front slot is for a less aggressive cut or for thin wood cutting the one toward the back of the arm is for thick wood cutting or a more aggressive cut. I personally always use the front one and see little to no difference in the aggressive cutting from either slot. I do notice with it in the back slot I don’t get as good of a cut not squared. Not a huge deal other than cutting puzzles for me anyway or stack cutting.

There is a set screw on the opposite side of the thumb screw on the lower blade holder.. Your clamps are just like what Les posted above.. I just watched your 2nd video you posted the other day.. The lower clamp is there in the lower arm.. your video shows the set screw being in there.. as well as on the upper blade clamp.. That blade clamp comes out.. in order to change blades if you look on the right side of the saw on that brace that runs along side the upper arm.. there is two different sets of holes drilled into that.. You put your holder roll pin into one of those holes and the upper lip on the clamp should lock over the top of that upper brace.. this holds it while you loosen / tighten the thumb screw for changing the blades..

Very Nice!!

Many times if you ask a seller if they'd consider shipping.. they will.. If you know the saws weight or very close to it.. one can decide if it's worth the hassle.. There are many ways to ship a larger item like this and at very reasonable rates... Fastenal and Greyhound come to mind.. Many times all the seller has to do is deliver it to the local shipping center and drop it off.. and many sellers don't realize how easy shipping some big heavy items really is.. as they only think USPS UPS and Fedex.. I used to part out and sell whole old antique Lawn and garden tractors.. Shipping whole tractors at times.. maybe because of that small business.. I just learned how to find shipping deals.. Use to ship a whole tractor for about $75 - $150 across the USA.. that was 15 - 20 years ago though.. but anyway.. sometimes a seller will work with a buyer on shipping even though they have it set to pick up only.. I've been on both sides of this as a buyer and as a seller..

There is supposed to be a nylon washer between the wedge and the adjuster..that is supposed to suppress the lever from turning.. mine turns anyway but I accidentally got some oil on the washer etc.. which is partly why I wanted to get the dry lube and spray the wedge.. I haven't run the saw much yet to see if it moves still after cleaning it up and lubing the parts separate from the saw.. and then putting it back together... I don't see how that washer would stop it from turning but they say on one of the videos on Hawks web site that f it turns by itself you need to replace that washer..

I'd like to get my hands on a Hegner one day.. Love the Hawk saws.. just always wanted to try a Hegner.. one day a deal will come along when I actually have the funds.. I've seen a few deals here and there.. just not good timing for me to snag one yet..

Someone here made a copy of the pattern for me and messaged me.. I won't be making any more than the one.. but I sure would love to find the designer and pay for their artwork.. Then I'd make them to sell.. Was quite interesting at first because I almost never cut 1/8 BB ply without stacking at least 3.. usually 5-6 stacks.. so cutting was a little different going.. I managed to get through it without breaking or messing up too bad LOL..

Great idea I could use a heated blanket and tuck them in at night.. then they are still warm for me in the morning..

That's a good question.. and I also would like to have one.. Might have to give them a call as they don't always have everything on the web site.. I'd like to have a couple of them.. also wouldn't mind one for the DeWalt and Excalibur.. since they all seem to collect dust.. I mostly use my old 220VS so probably wouldn't really need one for that one..

I cut this out for my 10 year old niece for her birthday. Piece looked like it’d be quite fragile by itself so I decided to cut from thin B.B. ply and glue it to a star shaped backer from walnut. Dipped in Danish oil today and in a few days I’ll top coat it with some lacquer. Wrote a little birthday message on the back and dated it so she’ll have a lifetime treasure

I did the same thing with the wedge when I first got my older 220VS and it has been working great ever since.. yesterday while cleaning etc I did it again.. as it was just starting to round a bit.. I do need to send my arm in at some point..

Those are beautiful.. You did good on those.. I've always thought about making some of those.. just haven't yet

I think this could be a good deal on a new older Hawk saw.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RBI-Industries-Hawk-220-Scroll-Saw-and-Stand-Never-use-Woodworking-Cutting-Tool/223078396058?hash=item33f082309a%3Ag%3AH6oAAOSwqSJbW8us&_sacat=0&_nkw=rbi+hawk&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

I bet when I go to the post office tomorrow to mail my packages.. your picture is going to be on the wanted wall for stealing that saw for only $150 That is exact same saw as my 226.. newer than mine.. I give $400 for mine.. and I had to put mine together.. ( still new in the box ) but I'd rather had a slightly used one that was already assembled for $150 LOL.. You certainly did good on that I think.. Now once you find the spot where you're going to park it to use.. I would probably bottom out all those adjustable feet.. loosen the stand legs some.. try to kick out the legs to get a good solid footprint to the floor on the legs and then tighten the bolts back up.. then from there you can fine tune those adjustable feet to get the least vibration throughout the speed ranges.. There will most likely be a speed number range that no matter what you do they'll shake.. just how those Hawks are.. This below is optional.. but it's what I do to kinda fine tune a saw.. especially a new to me saw.. I'd then take some WD-40 and clean up the bearing areas and then put a couple drops of oil on them to soak down into the bearings. Clean the wedge and the area it sits in with some cleaner / degreaser..I used brake cleaner for mine but be careful as it will melt the paint on the stand so pile lots of paper towels down.. then once cleaned up good use a dry spray lube on the wedge and the area it sits.. try to keep the top of the wedge from the lube though as you don't want the tension spinning on you while sawing.. and it will if you get lube on that... ( don't ask how I figured that out ).. I'd do the same with the tension lever mechanism at the front part of the upper arm.. break clean it all up in the sides where it moves etc.. then after it's cleaned up good with all the old oils etc gone.. spray it good with dry lube. Check the adjustment of that set screw under the front tension release lever.. you want it to just get some resistance just slightly before the lever is all the way back and almost where it will touch the arm.. maybe 1/8"before touching the arm.. is about how I have mine adjusted.. Once you get it all tuned in good you'll be glade you did all of these things.. it'll run and operate so much smoother.. Actually what I do with the bearings is I take the arms off the saw and clean / check them.. rather than the wd-40 and stuff I mentioned before.. but I'm not sure how comfortable you might be with doing that.. and the wd-40 and some fresh clean oil would probably do the trick just about as good.. Anyway.. the least friction you get with a saw buy using good oils / grease / lubes etc the smoother your saw will run.... and I've always been able to improve the operation of the saw from what the previous owners had buy doing these things.. and periodically doing them as routine maintenance.. Good luck with your new toy .. glad you was able to get a nice saw at a good price.

Well I finally found some dry lube spay for preventative maintenance and a small can of 3 n 1 general purpose oil.. I had oiled up my saw in the past but probably not the best method since I used regular oil rather than the dry lube for the back cam and front tension parts of the saw.. so I used some break cleaner to clean up all that oil mess I had going on.. then used the dry lube in the recommended areas and a couple drops of 3 n 1 oil on the bearings in the arms.. This took a good 10 minutes to do wasn't quite enough shop time.. so I then waxed the table.. seen how dirty / dusty the rest of the saw was including the stand etc.. so.. what was a few minutes in the shop turned into a whopping 20 minutes to dust and wax the whole saw including the stand etc.. she was dirty.. even though every day I use my shop vac to clean all around the saw and the dust off the saw etc.. still was dirty.. maybe with all the wax on it the dust will just fall to the ground LOL... Probably not but.. anyway.. sure wish oiling the bearings etc. on my DeWalt and Excalibur was that simple... After it was all done.. I gave it a couple of test runs... amazing how smooth the tension lever moves etc now I have that cleaned up and slick with some dry lube so the grime won't tick to it.. Now my 226 setting there all dirty.. guess I better do that one too.. then I notice the DeWalt and Excalibur, bandsaw and table saw felt left out.. before you know it a whole day of cleaning saws has taken place.. and not much wood products made..

Any certain brand you use for the Hawks.. I'm not sure where to get it locally as I haven't found anything that says it's dry lube.. until I found this stuff.. I've been using light oil but it's messy and not sure how good it's doing for the saw since it gets sawdust and grime stuck in it etc.. I know I read some of you all use a dry graphite..? https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/automotive-maintenance/automotive-grease-lubricants/blaster-reg-industrial-graphite-dry-lubricant-5-5-oz/8-gs/p-1498065592810.htm Think this will do?

LOL, Thanks Dave.. We will leave that one for JT, he is the real clock man and certainly deserves that title.. Without a lot of his advice from many years ago ( he probably doesn't know me on other message boards or even remembers giving me advice ) before the village was here.. He had helped me way back in 2006 ish on how to select clocks and sizes etc. for my very first clock I made.. No matter how good I might get at them.. he'will always be the clock man..

I don't have any experience with the G4 model Hawks... That said, of reading these type of forum / message boards over the past 15-20 years.. What I've read and heard from these saws.. they are superior to any other Hawk saw made.. so I'd say it's probably a great saw..

Just to show you what you might get into if you need parts for that front tension lever.. Parts are cheap.. and even if you need a whole assembly it's only $50.. the cam I was mentioning is only $12.50.. But anyway.. here is a link to the parts for that front portion of the saw.. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket/