kmmcrafts

Thanks for posting that picture JT.. I'm thinking this is what she means when she says tension spring.. there is no spring.. other than the arm spring at the back of the saw.. and not really anything to do with the tension.. only just holds the arm up for you for blade changes.. and in the photo.. it shows the arm in the up position.. so I don't think that is what she is talking about..

Below is a link to the PDF manual on their site for the ultra style saws.. I didn't see the adjustment procedure. I have a paper that came with my new clamp for the older saw that has the instructions on it.. I'd have to look for it.. Anyway.. if you go to the parts list.. #20 is the cam just to give you a visual your tension lever goes through the cam.. you'll turn that set screw in just enough to put some pressure on that lever as you would lock the tension on the blade.. This should also show you how to install the blades etc. if you're not familiar with the Hawk saws. Might look through it before going to look at the saw.. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com/files/SawManuals/Model_226pro_serial_1636-3100.pdf

Well a closer look.. I think it's a Ultra series which is like my newer one.. should have the square style clamps.. and I believe it will have two slots in the lower arm for the blade clamp to fit into.. front slot for less aggressive cutting and the back slot for thick wood or aggressive cuts.. As for the tension spring.. not sure what she is referring to so.. I'm going to guess at what the issue is.. and maybe what you can look for.. The upper clamp has a sort of cam on it where the tension lever is.. This cam has a set screw ( very small allen wrench needed ) that you turn to adjust this.. I'm guessing it's out of adjustment.. BUT.. it could be worn out too.. I think the cam thing can be changed out but not sure? The whole mechanism ( upper tension lever whole pivoting portion etc ) runs about $50 i think.. I changed - updated it on my old saw as it didn't have any adjustment set screw.. I believe this saw would have the newer motor ( but not positive ).. I think the ultra series came out in 1996 and was maybe made until the G4 came out maybe? Not sure .. Don't know when the G4 came out.. Thinking around 2004-5? They may have still made the ultra in the G4 era too I don't know.. I'd say it should be well worth $150.. Problem is.. if the tension lever is out of adjustment.. you may not be able to try the saw out... Oh.. yes you can maybe.. depending on how worn or out of adjustment it is.. You can take a rubber band to wrap around the upper arm and the tension lever to hold it down.. Usually what happens is the cam lever won't stay locked in place.. but if you take a rubber band or something to sort of hold it down you can use it or at least test it ( hopefully ).. This is what Bushton told me to do until I got my new mechanism for my older saw if I needed to run it.. Edit to add: That set screw for the cam adjustment is on the underside of the front pivoting portion.. should be back about the area where the lever goes into the arm.. I'd say take a set of small allen wrenches with you and you could maybe adjust it up until it gets some tension.. I can't remember the procedure off the top of my head though.. However you may not want to fix it.. then she might want more money for it since it's such a simple fix and may not actually need parts, LOL ;

Yes I like lots of light.. which is why I put the windows in.. plus if I want to I can open the windows and get a nice cross breeze.. I rarely turn the lights on in there other than my magnifier light.. I almost purchased windows in my doors.. but was worried about people seeing in too easily from the road or driveway.. I've never seen windows like those you have in a garage door.. maybe i should have looked more at them.. they look to be high up and probably would be hard to see inside.. unlike the big square windows my friend has in his doors that are like the size of one of the whole door panels and goes all the way across..

Well as usual there is no great photo of the serial tag.. no good photo of the lower blade clamp to see if it uses the round barrel clamp or the newer square block type.. No view of the motor to know whether it has the problematic motor or not.. With all that said.. I do see what looks like the slotted hole in the stand here you would put a barrel type clamp in to hold it while you change blades out...BUT.. I also see what looks like the blade change holder holes in the framework beam up by the upper arm for the square styled clamps.. I really cannot give you much info on it myself.. I would say, go look at it.. take a few blades and maybe he will let you cut on that pile of wood stacked on top of it.. Run the speed dial from slow to fast while cutting and see if it gets real jumpy.. Those older style motors like to surge.. and that is my understanding of what burns up the motor as it'll surge too much power too many times.. My older Hawk does this.. BUT.. only at the highest maybe 7/8 of the dial and higher.. never had an issue below that so i keep it right in the sweet spot below that and that is my main saw I been using.. The 226 is a higher dollar saw.. and in my opinion.. if it runs.. it's worth every penny of that and more.. even if you have to change out some worn parts.. I have the 226.. with the square style clamps too.. but my favorite one to use is actually that older 220 with the barrel clamps.. I don't know why other than the upper arm goes up a little higher for easier blade feeding ( bottom feeder here).. and most of the older Hawks are bottom feed only.. You can email the seller and get the serial number and call buston and they should be able to tell you the year of the machine.. and if it has that older motor.. personally I wuldn't worry about the motor at that price you can afford to put $300 for a new motor and controller assembly at most likely get your money out of it by selling it or use it.. Just My opinion... The New 226 BM series Hawks are $1400 + shipping which I believe equates to around $1600.. which is basically the same thing with a few upgrades

Just finished up another order for one of these 69 Camaro clocks..

Looks like an awesome sort of rustic large wall hang clock to me.. I'd cut out numbers from Walnut or something contrasting to glue onto them.. I think i'd leave them with the dowel rods etc just as they are.. Might even just stencil / paint the numbers

Yes, I have insulated garage doors on my shop as well as the entry door.. insulation below the concrete when it was being built.. If.. I keep the shop shut up my highest temp was 84 on a day that was 98 outside... But.. I only get sun until around mid day.. as once whole side and back is pretty shaded.. and.. as we all know.. heat rises.. I have a loft / upstairs.. It used to get well over 100 up there.. but i insulated the roof ( I have black shingles ) with 3" styrofoam sheets between the trusses. Now it is tolerable up there... You'd be surprised just how much hanging a piece of plastic helps.. I intend to hang up that bubble wrap stuff that has aluminum foil stuff on both sides over my insulation.. They say that stuff does wonders.. even without insulation as the foil is heat reflective.. You can get some nice colors on those doors too.. Below is a few pictures as they was building the shop.. I have three windows in the lower ( workshop area ) one on each side and one in the back corner.. I put my saws so I'm back in the one corner and can look out all three windows.. Up stairs has 4 windows (two on each end.. I do my finishing and have built flooring back behind the main trusses for my storage area.. So the main 14 x 32 area is still open up there.. great for parties when it's a rainy day and this way we don't have everyone inside the house.. intend to build shelving back there with drawers labeled with my finished pieces.. but for now I just use plastic drawers or totes.. which work really well.

That's nice.. I like it.. To solve that problem on my two Hawks..I removed about half of the links in the blower line.. Those Hawks have a nice bellows compared to any other saw I've used.. angled just right it'll blow the dust off the saw next to me.. so I see no real need to have the blower line right next to the blade like the other saws.. But at times even that short piece of line-loc I have will get in the way.. I may have to try your idea. thanks for sharing it.

Hahahaha, Not to say that a Excalibur or other saws that have aftermarket clamps available are not a high end saw.. but I think when you buy a high end saw like our Hawks.. you already have a high end quality clamp that came with it, LOL.. I see how you tricked me into saying that.. ... and I said it as nicely as I could as to not offend anyone..

Do you know what size and brand spiral blade you're using? A #2 blade isn't a very wide blade as you have figured out.. but this also depends on brand as well.. many times and i think maybe somewhere on this site there are charts for the blade brands that have the sizing info.. Most online sellers show the width of the kerf in the blade details.. you can compare those sizes with what you're using now and find a blade that would maybe give you the kerf spacing you need for your projects.. Generally speaking the higher the number size of the blade.. the larger it will be.. But also just know that sometimes... depending on the blades teeth configuration that wider kerf may also slow down cutting speed.. even though some have a more aggressive tooth.. I'm just guessing.. but I'd think maybe you're going to want to look at blades in the #7 or #9 size for the wider kerf if you're going to be looking at using a flat blade.. Most unpainted puzzles I make I use a #3 or #5... But again.. sizes by brand and style of blade will vary from one blade to another..

Interesting, I like the bits from Harbor Freight.. but I've only seen the smallest as being 1/16 and comes in a package of 7 ( I think ).. Anyway.. I'm going to look next time I'm there.. but never seen the numbered bits... The link is the 1/16" that I had been using for quite a long time..can't wait to go see if they have these smaller ones.. My smallest one I use ( can't remember but I think it's number 58 or 60? I know that a FD-UR #5 just fits the hole.. but a Pegas MG #5 will not fit.. so I use the FD blades for my small cutouts.. https://www.harborfreight.com/116-in-titanium-high-speed-steel-drill-bit-set-7-pc-61549.html

I don't have a Hegner.. but all my saws sit flat on the stand ( no angle ) except the DeWalt... and ... all saws give me neck / shoulder stiffness and sometimes pain except the DeWalt.. My older Hawk has adjustable feet.. and I've set the back ones higher than the front.. but cannot get enough angle to completely comfortable.. I tried adding some blocks to the back.. but that only caused bad vibration as JT mentioned.. Part of my problem is my stool. it's adjustable but doesn't get the right height which causes me to sit awkward hence the discomfort..

When they showed me the picture I also thought it looked familiar.. I used to get the creative woodworks and crafts magazine.. I might have to go thumb through what I have.. I'm sure I've see this before.. Dave, Thanks for showing your design, I'll run it by them and see if that interest them..

I was asked to make this or something real similar for my niece for her birthday Aug. 11th.... Just wondered if anyone knows where this can be purchased or very similar.. Like to get it done so I can quit thinking about how I need to get it cut, LOL.. was asked a month ago.. and have looked around but I don't see anything.. thought maybe someone here had seen it.

First let me say - Welcome to the forum Not to get into a what saw is best debate.. I've done enough of that in this forum All the saws the others mentioned above should be able to handle the chore. blade choice is going to be the key to achieving the task more so than what saw to use.. I'm not a thick wood cutter so I don't really know what blade would be best.. I'm guessing what the others said that have been there done that.. ScrollSaw703 I think has given some good advice about the blades.. Not sure what you might be cutting ( maybe I missed it ) but if you could get by with a small bandsaw.. that is where I would be looking if you're just cutting outside cuts etc.. Scroll sawing that thick would is real slow going I would think.. at least for someone like me that typically cuts 3/4" or less... mostly less..

Very nice work.. I like how you have done those frames

I bought from Mikes workshop as well.. one day I needed one as I broke the last one I had of a particular size... I went shopping all around town for them.. found that my local Menards also has them..

This is where I got mine as it's on sale.. Not sure what saw you have but this one linked is for the Excalibur.. They also have them for the DeWalt and Jet saw too.. but you'd have to search for it. Also Bear Woods, and DND sells them on their site as well.. I'm sure I'm missing the other sellers I found but you can just google search for pegas blade chuck.. since pegas is known for blades you'll have to sort through sites that also sell the blades.. Anyway.. one linked below was the cheapest deal because they are on sale. I ordered on Sunday evening and they came in the mail in about 3-4 days https://qtena.com/b-pegas-head-clamp-set-br-for-axminster-carbatec-excalibur-excelsior-jet-king-pegas-and-seyco-scroll-saws-p-9607.html

I use to do that and at times still do.. I have never had very good luck with cutting the actual pattern that I taped on.. once I start cutting around the taped areas they sometimes would fall off etc.. So then I learned to tape it then scan it to the printer to do a what I call make a hard copy LOL.. No taped copy that stays together I pretty much use the software's available now.. Especially for text..

Well, I had problems with my Excalibur upper clamp chuck day one straight out of the box.. the saw run good but the clamp was less than desirable.. I had posted a few times in the forums about the issues I had and many seem to think I had a defective clamp to begin with.. My thumb / set screw holes was not centered in the clamp mechanism properly.. I had to center the blade in the thumb screw area.. rather than just put the blade at the back of the clamp like most people do.. it was as if the screw holes was too far forward on the mechanism.. If I put my blade to the back and tighten the thumb screw down.. the thumb screw would miss the blade.. I had to bring the blade forward to catch the thumb screw.. then also had slippage issues from time to time.. I probably wouldn't have bought this set IF everything was working smoothly from that standpoint. But talk about frustrated.. brand new saw that I hated.. I am more than thrilled to actually enjoy cutting on this saw now.. I don't know how much the parts cost for the Excalibur saws clamps.. tension levers etc that wear out.. but I'm thinking if one needs to replace something on their EX clamps.. they'd be farther ahead upgrading to the Pegas.. as I don't see anything that would actually wear out with this new design..

Very nice work.. You certainly been busy..

Something I haven’t seen in the reviews of these upgraded blade chucks. I have questioned parts availablility for new tension levers and thumb screws etc. After getting these new chucks and installing them I noticed that the tension lever actually doesn’t rub on the clamp which creates the tension like the OEM Excalibur ones do. The Pegas tensioning is done by a steel pin that goes through an encentric. So I don’t really see where there would be any major wearing points on these new clamps. Possibly the brass bushings and pins eventually, but I’m thinking that would take a long time. I attached a photo of the side view showing the ( I’m assuming ) brass bushing with a pin going through it on an offset which lifts / lowers the clamp for tension / release of the blade. These clamps are very well worth the cost very high quality, and make a very good improvement over the OEM blade chuck

Some of the reason the PSR #3 blade cuts smoother than the MG #5 is because it's a smaller blade with more teeth.. The more teeth or smaller the blade.. the smoother the cut's edges will be.. This is one reason I like the MG blades as they are slightly faster or more aggressive cutting.. where I normally would use a #5 blade with a different brand.. I can cut with a #3 blade with the Pegas MG blade...

I ordered some clocks from them about 6-8 years ago.. they took a very long time to get here... While they were good clocks and I didn't really have any issues with them.. The slow shipping is why i never ordered from them again.. at the time I ordered.. I didn't know they was from Canada.. until I looked at my packing slip when my package arrived.. then it was like.. OH.. that's why it took so long..