kmmcrafts

Good luck! from what I'm seeing in the pictures.. It's a steal of a deal.. hopefully it'll still be there tomorrow..

not sure if this works on Mac but i also sometimes will right click on photo file and in the drop box.. select print.. then it gives a photo printing options with sizes.. Many wall hangings I will shrink down to the 5x7 or 4 x 6 size.. which makes perfect sizes for making Christmas ornaments.. Have also printed ornaments at the 8 x 10 or 11 x 14 sixe for wall hangings.. Makes quick sizing options. For instance.. this is how I change the puzzle patterns that Iggy sells into ornaments.. I just use that for resizing them for ornaments.. Hope that helps someone..

Appears to be in good condition to me..

This is one of the pictures of the saw in the link you posted .. good view of the wedge.. this photo shows the wedge at the back of the saw just below the tension cam lever.. Hawk has two tension cam levers.. this one at the back is where you adjust the tension.. the one at the front is more of a quick release for blade changes and makes fretwork much nicer than having to reach to the back..

No modification is needed to use Pegas blades on our Hawks.. they are just standard pinless blades like any other pinless blades.. The blade chucks are a after market retro fit for the poorly made blade chucks from Excalibur, DeWalt and Jet saws.. since these saws use a lower quality cast aluminum with steel threads on the thumb screws = junk clamps for these saws if you aren't careful.. but the Pegas upgraded clamps are a very well made upgrade..

I've never used the poster print option on my printer.. I've never had any luck with them actually printing where they print the whole thing.. Maybe newer printers do it better than the old one I use to have.. I got into the habit of using this program and it's all I use anymore.. I can custom size anything by % mm inches etc etc.. It saves in PDF format etc.. So I guess I don't have an exact answer to your specific question.. But here is the program I use called PosteRazor http://posterazor.sourceforge.net/index.php?page=download&lang=english

Yeah very true.. The car themed stuff seem to be my hottest selling items I offer.. And around the world is right.. Send many of these to Australia, Canada, and the UK... Few to Italy too.. I also think it's really cool that something I make here in my little shop in southwest lower Michigan.. is sent all over to many different states, countries etc..

First picture is the old style motor that is the problematic one. Second picture is the newer style motor.

That is the spring I mentioned that really doesn't do anything other than hold the upper arm up when the blade is is disconnected.. Which in the photos it shows the arm in the up position.. Now.. there may be another purpose of that spring? I don't know.. but I've run my saw without it for some test runs while doing some work to it.. I didn't notice any difference other that it kept falling down on me while trying to thread the blade through another hole.. From the picture.. in the link you posted there is a good view of the wedge that Brad mentioned.. that wedge should be quite pointed.. not rounded off.. but not sharp either.. I thought it looked to be in descent shape in the photo.. As for the motor.. visually the older motor is big.. there is a way to know but I forgot ( old age I guess ) The older motor is pretty good sized while the newer motor is a smaller one more like the size of the DeWalt Excalibur size motors.. When I say big I mean diameter.. I'll go out and take a photo of my older one and my newer one so you'll have an idea of how they look. From what I've seen.. the 26" saws are typically priced from $400 - 650 just to give an idea of how this one is priced.. actually see them for more than $650 but they typically set on them for months to sell them too.. but they seem to move fairly quick around the $400 - 600 range.

My 226 is a 98 according to Bushton.. and my serial number is 10290.. so I guessing it's newer than mine.. by how much, I don't know.. definitely would have the newer better motor I would think.. as mine does..

Thanks for posting that picture JT.. I'm thinking this is what she means when she says tension spring.. there is no spring.. other than the arm spring at the back of the saw.. and not really anything to do with the tension.. only just holds the arm up for you for blade changes.. and in the photo.. it shows the arm in the up position.. so I don't think that is what she is talking about..

Below is a link to the PDF manual on their site for the ultra style saws.. I didn't see the adjustment procedure. I have a paper that came with my new clamp for the older saw that has the instructions on it.. I'd have to look for it.. Anyway.. if you go to the parts list.. #20 is the cam just to give you a visual your tension lever goes through the cam.. you'll turn that set screw in just enough to put some pressure on that lever as you would lock the tension on the blade.. This should also show you how to install the blades etc. if you're not familiar with the Hawk saws. Might look through it before going to look at the saw.. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com/files/SawManuals/Model_226pro_serial_1636-3100.pdf

Well a closer look.. I think it's a Ultra series which is like my newer one.. should have the square style clamps.. and I believe it will have two slots in the lower arm for the blade clamp to fit into.. front slot for less aggressive cutting and the back slot for thick wood or aggressive cuts.. As for the tension spring.. not sure what she is referring to so.. I'm going to guess at what the issue is.. and maybe what you can look for.. The upper clamp has a sort of cam on it where the tension lever is.. This cam has a set screw ( very small allen wrench needed ) that you turn to adjust this.. I'm guessing it's out of adjustment.. BUT.. it could be worn out too.. I think the cam thing can be changed out but not sure? The whole mechanism ( upper tension lever whole pivoting portion etc ) runs about $50 i think.. I changed - updated it on my old saw as it didn't have any adjustment set screw.. I believe this saw would have the newer motor ( but not positive ).. I think the ultra series came out in 1996 and was maybe made until the G4 came out maybe? Not sure .. Don't know when the G4 came out.. Thinking around 2004-5? They may have still made the ultra in the G4 era too I don't know.. I'd say it should be well worth $150.. Problem is.. if the tension lever is out of adjustment.. you may not be able to try the saw out... Oh.. yes you can maybe.. depending on how worn or out of adjustment it is.. You can take a rubber band to wrap around the upper arm and the tension lever to hold it down.. Usually what happens is the cam lever won't stay locked in place.. but if you take a rubber band or something to sort of hold it down you can use it or at least test it ( hopefully ).. This is what Bushton told me to do until I got my new mechanism for my older saw if I needed to run it.. Edit to add: That set screw for the cam adjustment is on the underside of the front pivoting portion.. should be back about the area where the lever goes into the arm.. I'd say take a set of small allen wrenches with you and you could maybe adjust it up until it gets some tension.. I can't remember the procedure off the top of my head though.. However you may not want to fix it.. then she might want more money for it since it's such a simple fix and may not actually need parts, LOL ;

Yes I like lots of light.. which is why I put the windows in.. plus if I want to I can open the windows and get a nice cross breeze.. I rarely turn the lights on in there other than my magnifier light.. I almost purchased windows in my doors.. but was worried about people seeing in too easily from the road or driveway.. I've never seen windows like those you have in a garage door.. maybe i should have looked more at them.. they look to be high up and probably would be hard to see inside.. unlike the big square windows my friend has in his doors that are like the size of one of the whole door panels and goes all the way across..

Well as usual there is no great photo of the serial tag.. no good photo of the lower blade clamp to see if it uses the round barrel clamp or the newer square block type.. No view of the motor to know whether it has the problematic motor or not.. With all that said.. I do see what looks like the slotted hole in the stand here you would put a barrel type clamp in to hold it while you change blades out...BUT.. I also see what looks like the blade change holder holes in the framework beam up by the upper arm for the square styled clamps.. I really cannot give you much info on it myself.. I would say, go look at it.. take a few blades and maybe he will let you cut on that pile of wood stacked on top of it.. Run the speed dial from slow to fast while cutting and see if it gets real jumpy.. Those older style motors like to surge.. and that is my understanding of what burns up the motor as it'll surge too much power too many times.. My older Hawk does this.. BUT.. only at the highest maybe 7/8 of the dial and higher.. never had an issue below that so i keep it right in the sweet spot below that and that is my main saw I been using.. The 226 is a higher dollar saw.. and in my opinion.. if it runs.. it's worth every penny of that and more.. even if you have to change out some worn parts.. I have the 226.. with the square style clamps too.. but my favorite one to use is actually that older 220 with the barrel clamps.. I don't know why other than the upper arm goes up a little higher for easier blade feeding ( bottom feeder here).. and most of the older Hawks are bottom feed only.. You can email the seller and get the serial number and call buston and they should be able to tell you the year of the machine.. and if it has that older motor.. personally I wuldn't worry about the motor at that price you can afford to put $300 for a new motor and controller assembly at most likely get your money out of it by selling it or use it.. Just My opinion... The New 226 BM series Hawks are $1400 + shipping which I believe equates to around $1600.. which is basically the same thing with a few upgrades

Just finished up another order for one of these 69 Camaro clocks..

Looks like an awesome sort of rustic large wall hang clock to me.. I'd cut out numbers from Walnut or something contrasting to glue onto them.. I think i'd leave them with the dowel rods etc just as they are.. Might even just stencil / paint the numbers

Yes, I have insulated garage doors on my shop as well as the entry door.. insulation below the concrete when it was being built.. If.. I keep the shop shut up my highest temp was 84 on a day that was 98 outside... But.. I only get sun until around mid day.. as once whole side and back is pretty shaded.. and.. as we all know.. heat rises.. I have a loft / upstairs.. It used to get well over 100 up there.. but i insulated the roof ( I have black shingles ) with 3" styrofoam sheets between the trusses. Now it is tolerable up there... You'd be surprised just how much hanging a piece of plastic helps.. I intend to hang up that bubble wrap stuff that has aluminum foil stuff on both sides over my insulation.. They say that stuff does wonders.. even without insulation as the foil is heat reflective.. You can get some nice colors on those doors too.. Below is a few pictures as they was building the shop.. I have three windows in the lower ( workshop area ) one on each side and one in the back corner.. I put my saws so I'm back in the one corner and can look out all three windows.. Up stairs has 4 windows (two on each end.. I do my finishing and have built flooring back behind the main trusses for my storage area.. So the main 14 x 32 area is still open up there.. great for parties when it's a rainy day and this way we don't have everyone inside the house.. intend to build shelving back there with drawers labeled with my finished pieces.. but for now I just use plastic drawers or totes.. which work really well.

That's nice.. I like it.. To solve that problem on my two Hawks..I removed about half of the links in the blower line.. Those Hawks have a nice bellows compared to any other saw I've used.. angled just right it'll blow the dust off the saw next to me.. so I see no real need to have the blower line right next to the blade like the other saws.. But at times even that short piece of line-loc I have will get in the way.. I may have to try your idea. thanks for sharing it.

Hahahaha, Not to say that a Excalibur or other saws that have aftermarket clamps available are not a high end saw.. but I think when you buy a high end saw like our Hawks.. you already have a high end quality clamp that came with it, LOL.. I see how you tricked me into saying that.. ... and I said it as nicely as I could as to not offend anyone..

Do you know what size and brand spiral blade you're using? A #2 blade isn't a very wide blade as you have figured out.. but this also depends on brand as well.. many times and i think maybe somewhere on this site there are charts for the blade brands that have the sizing info.. Most online sellers show the width of the kerf in the blade details.. you can compare those sizes with what you're using now and find a blade that would maybe give you the kerf spacing you need for your projects.. Generally speaking the higher the number size of the blade.. the larger it will be.. But also just know that sometimes... depending on the blades teeth configuration that wider kerf may also slow down cutting speed.. even though some have a more aggressive tooth.. I'm just guessing.. but I'd think maybe you're going to want to look at blades in the #7 or #9 size for the wider kerf if you're going to be looking at using a flat blade.. Most unpainted puzzles I make I use a #3 or #5... But again.. sizes by brand and style of blade will vary from one blade to another..

Interesting, I like the bits from Harbor Freight.. but I've only seen the smallest as being 1/16 and comes in a package of 7 ( I think ).. Anyway.. I'm going to look next time I'm there.. but never seen the numbered bits... The link is the 1/16" that I had been using for quite a long time..can't wait to go see if they have these smaller ones.. My smallest one I use ( can't remember but I think it's number 58 or 60? I know that a FD-UR #5 just fits the hole.. but a Pegas MG #5 will not fit.. so I use the FD blades for my small cutouts.. https://www.harborfreight.com/116-in-titanium-high-speed-steel-drill-bit-set-7-pc-61549.html

I don't have a Hegner.. but all my saws sit flat on the stand ( no angle ) except the DeWalt... and ... all saws give me neck / shoulder stiffness and sometimes pain except the DeWalt.. My older Hawk has adjustable feet.. and I've set the back ones higher than the front.. but cannot get enough angle to completely comfortable.. I tried adding some blocks to the back.. but that only caused bad vibration as JT mentioned.. Part of my problem is my stool. it's adjustable but doesn't get the right height which causes me to sit awkward hence the discomfort..

When they showed me the picture I also thought it looked familiar.. I used to get the creative woodworks and crafts magazine.. I might have to go thumb through what I have.. I'm sure I've see this before.. Dave, Thanks for showing your design, I'll run it by them and see if that interest them..

I was asked to make this or something real similar for my niece for her birthday Aug. 11th.... Just wondered if anyone knows where this can be purchased or very similar.. Like to get it done so I can quit thinking about how I need to get it cut, LOL.. was asked a month ago.. and have looked around but I don't see anything.. thought maybe someone here had seen it.