kmmcrafts

First let me say - Welcome to the forum Not to get into a what saw is best debate.. I've done enough of that in this forum All the saws the others mentioned above should be able to handle the chore. blade choice is going to be the key to achieving the task more so than what saw to use.. I'm not a thick wood cutter so I don't really know what blade would be best.. I'm guessing what the others said that have been there done that.. ScrollSaw703 I think has given some good advice about the blades.. Not sure what you might be cutting ( maybe I missed it ) but if you could get by with a small bandsaw.. that is where I would be looking if you're just cutting outside cuts etc.. Scroll sawing that thick would is real slow going I would think.. at least for someone like me that typically cuts 3/4" or less... mostly less..

Very nice work.. I like how you have done those frames

I bought from Mikes workshop as well.. one day I needed one as I broke the last one I had of a particular size... I went shopping all around town for them.. found that my local Menards also has them..

This is where I got mine as it's on sale.. Not sure what saw you have but this one linked is for the Excalibur.. They also have them for the DeWalt and Jet saw too.. but you'd have to search for it. Also Bear Woods, and DND sells them on their site as well.. I'm sure I'm missing the other sellers I found but you can just google search for pegas blade chuck.. since pegas is known for blades you'll have to sort through sites that also sell the blades.. Anyway.. one linked below was the cheapest deal because they are on sale. I ordered on Sunday evening and they came in the mail in about 3-4 days https://qtena.com/b-pegas-head-clamp-set-br-for-axminster-carbatec-excalibur-excelsior-jet-king-pegas-and-seyco-scroll-saws-p-9607.html

I use to do that and at times still do.. I have never had very good luck with cutting the actual pattern that I taped on.. once I start cutting around the taped areas they sometimes would fall off etc.. So then I learned to tape it then scan it to the printer to do a what I call make a hard copy LOL.. No taped copy that stays together I pretty much use the software's available now.. Especially for text..

Well, I had problems with my Excalibur upper clamp chuck day one straight out of the box.. the saw run good but the clamp was less than desirable.. I had posted a few times in the forums about the issues I had and many seem to think I had a defective clamp to begin with.. My thumb / set screw holes was not centered in the clamp mechanism properly.. I had to center the blade in the thumb screw area.. rather than just put the blade at the back of the clamp like most people do.. it was as if the screw holes was too far forward on the mechanism.. If I put my blade to the back and tighten the thumb screw down.. the thumb screw would miss the blade.. I had to bring the blade forward to catch the thumb screw.. then also had slippage issues from time to time.. I probably wouldn't have bought this set IF everything was working smoothly from that standpoint. But talk about frustrated.. brand new saw that I hated.. I am more than thrilled to actually enjoy cutting on this saw now.. I don't know how much the parts cost for the Excalibur saws clamps.. tension levers etc that wear out.. but I'm thinking if one needs to replace something on their EX clamps.. they'd be farther ahead upgrading to the Pegas.. as I don't see anything that would actually wear out with this new design..

Very nice work.. You certainly been busy..

Something I haven’t seen in the reviews of these upgraded blade chucks. I have questioned parts availablility for new tension levers and thumb screws etc. After getting these new chucks and installing them I noticed that the tension lever actually doesn’t rub on the clamp which creates the tension like the OEM Excalibur ones do. The Pegas tensioning is done by a steel pin that goes through an encentric. So I don’t really see where there would be any major wearing points on these new clamps. Possibly the brass bushings and pins eventually, but I’m thinking that would take a long time. I attached a photo of the side view showing the ( I’m assuming ) brass bushing with a pin going through it on an offset which lifts / lowers the clamp for tension / release of the blade. These clamps are very well worth the cost very high quality, and make a very good improvement over the OEM blade chuck

Some of the reason the PSR #3 blade cuts smoother than the MG #5 is because it's a smaller blade with more teeth.. The more teeth or smaller the blade.. the smoother the cut's edges will be.. This is one reason I like the MG blades as they are slightly faster or more aggressive cutting.. where I normally would use a #5 blade with a different brand.. I can cut with a #3 blade with the Pegas MG blade...

I ordered some clocks from them about 6-8 years ago.. they took a very long time to get here... While they were good clocks and I didn't really have any issues with them.. The slow shipping is why i never ordered from them again.. at the time I ordered.. I didn't know they was from Canada.. until I looked at my packing slip when my package arrived.. then it was like.. OH.. that's why it took so long..

Well I decided to install the new chucks... Took me more than the 10 minutes that everyone else was saying it took... BUT... While I had the thing apart and the bearings exposed.. I cleaned out the old grease and added my synthetic grease I bought years ago for rebuilding my DeWalt.. I have to say.. these have the exact same open bearings as the DeWalt.. I was sure it did but had read on many post that they are sealed.. and not having a Excalibur I wasn't going to argue that point to far because I really didn't know... But now I do.. The grease in the lower arm bearings was already pretty dried up and was stiff.. lucky I bought this set and took it apart or I'd have a worn out Excalibur in no time.. Pretty bad for a saw with only about 30 - 40 hours use on it.. I cut out a clock after I got everything installed and centered the set / thumb screws etc.. I am very impressed with the Pegas upgrade.. Saw is sooo much easier to use..

Well, I received my Pegas blade chucks today.. Ordered on Sunday night from qutena.com as they was on sale there.. came in the mail today.. I haven't installed them yet as I've been cutting orders.. I did take the time to open the box up and take the upper clamp out.. Appears very well made.. not all loose and sloppy fitting together like my original EX clamp where the one part slides on the other one.. I really half wonder if I didn't get a defective clamp with my saw.. just seems sloppy and not very well made... so this upgrade Pegas clamp should be a huge improvement Maybe I'll install it later tonight and give a couple of test cuts..

Just run across these two Hawks on eBay.. i'm not too sure what the value of a G4 would be but from what I've read / seen they are the top Hawk saw made.. So I'd think since a normal 226VS brings this kind of money all the time.. I figured for a more sought after saw should be worth a little more.. provided in good working order etc.. of coarse https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-G4-27-made-in-USA-scroll-saw-with-stand-and-blades-RBI-Industries/332729392010?hash=item4d78379b8a%3Ag%3A2HAAAOSwAspbUIfH&_sop=10&_nkw=scroll+saw&rt=nc https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-Precision-220-VS-Scroll-Saw-Very-Nice-Condition/153110374565?hash=item23a616e8a5%3Ag%3AM54AAOSwhCBbVQ9L&_sop=10&_nkw=scroll+saw&rt=nc

Very nicely done both of the pattern and the cutting..

I agree with all that has been said.. Best place online and the best group of people..

You know.. That might be the ticket.. I had not thought about trying that.. I did think about putting MA on one side and adding the year in on the other side.. since the recipients are graduating MA classes this year I thought maybe adding the year to be more meaningful.. Not real sure what I'll do yet.. but is interesting to hear some of these suggestions.. Keep them coming if you have any ideas.. just not too complicated as I'm no pattern wizard LOL

Very nicely done.. you certainly been busy..

A Chevy C-10 is a 1/2 ton full size truck.. C-20 would be a 3/4 ton etc. etc. Not sure when they started naming them like this.. I know there are C-10 etc in the mid to late 60's up through about 1987-8 ish... This body style i made is basically a 1973- 88 I think.. so covers many years.. Looking to make one like this of the earlier ones. as they are quite popular with the collectors / hot rodders etc.

Thanks for all the nice comments and likes etc. from everyone.. Well it's already been sold.. same customer has bought 6 clocks from me in the last year.. 2 last year.. just purchased 2 about 4 weeks ago.. and now.. today.. bought another 2.. then messaged me about making another Chevy clock I already have but with different wording.. Changing the text at the bottom is easy compared to creating a whole new design.. so of coarse I'll make the changes for him.. Not sure what he is doing with all these clocks... guess he doesn't want to be late getting home to the wife ..

Well it's been a little while since I made any thing "NEW" and this was a request from a customer.. So I made the pattern last week and cut it out yesterday.. I've been trying my hand at making my own patterns.. After I made this and cut it I see a couple of changes I'll make on the next one I cut.. If this one sells that is.. Don't think it's a bad pattern but not much to really brag about either... Now today.. back to cutting stock in ornaments..

Ordered my Pegas blade chucks earlier today.. So maybe I'll start cutting on that saw once I get them and give them a trial run.. Pretty sure I'll gravitate back to my Hawk though

So if I understand all this correct.. then all these different finishes tend to be just Tung oil or BLO with different mixture ratio and poly? I thought all of these different names was different oils.. Other day at the store I seen Teak oil.. I don't recall ever seeing anything on the scroll saw forums about this.. I think it was Watco Teak oil? I almost grabbed a small can to try..

The Oval idea might help do the trick. I may toy around with that idea when I rework my pattern.. Thanks for the suggestion

Thanks Jim- I did that already. Maybe I could have done it a little further but I already stretched it a long ways.. and the feet of the A are already almost twice as fat as the legs on the M.. so I thought it might look too obvious if I went any further with the stretching.

Thank you JT.. I'll look for that and see if I have it on my PC