kmmcrafts

He posted a picture in the bragging section... looks great..

Well my Delta was doing everything I needed it to do... so I felt a tabletop would be fine.. I do know the little table top units are very light duty.. and honestly I just make the boards flat and smooth for glue ups is all.. a sander would work and probably a hand plain.. most the lumber I get are fairly squared up etc.. I just run them through because they are rough cut on an edger saw.. I do have the space for a large floor model.. but trying to stay on budget with the wife not working at the moment etc. and needing something to do the job for now.. I've been watching for the past year or so on the right deal for a floor model..

Well I got the call this afternoon from the motor shop that the motor on my jointer isn't worth repairing.. and a new replacement motor is a tad over $400 so that's not happening on this old unit.. I've been looking at new units on and off when I have time... Been real busy lately and not even shop stuff.. My son (22 years old) took a new job at ( https://www.stevemorrisengines.com/) that is 2 hours away so helped him get out on his own for the first time.. his first week his car quit... luckily on a Friday and he at least got it to his apartment .. wasn't worth repairing.. so I got my old Dodge truck out of storage ( I bet he liked that ... at least until he had to fill it up every few days, LOL ) for him to drive for the last two weeks while I helped him repair the blazer that was my daughters before I got her the Jeep.. was going to be a father son project for my youngest son to drive since he starts drivers training this week.. While on the subject of busy.. Wife quit her job 3-4 weeks ago and we've been looking into buying self employed health insurance.. basically it's just the ACA insurance ( Obama care ).. issue with that is.. the whole system is broken and pretty stupid.. as it promotes failure.. what I mean by that is.. If I make $5000 less a year I save close to $12,000 on my coverage and premiums.. so apparently they don't expect small business'es to grow or want them to.. So basically I can scale down business and live in poverty or hunker down and keep doing what I do and still live more in poverty LOL.. Anyway I better get off that subject.. sorry to take it into a somewhat political or $$ talk but just wanted you all the know where / what I've been up too.. so if I stop posting I've either died because this political stuff made my BP go too high or.. I'm working my rear off to make some more money for the Gov. Back on track.. Been looking at the Rikon benchtop joiner with the helical head.. anyone have any experience with them? Also noticed this one which I think is really the same one I have with different name..Think I read somewhere once that Delta and Porter Cable same company? Probably the same one if so.. mine is a Delta JT160 and looks just like the one linked below.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porter-Cable-2-Blade-120V-6-Bench-Jointer-PC160JTR-Reconditioned/391758336977?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Here is a link to the Rikon.. Really like that one but.. little pricey.. and if the Porter Cable takes the same knives as my Delta since I have a couple new sets.. probably go with that.. unless of coarse a Craiglist deal pops up http://www.rockler.com/rikon-20-600h-6-benchtop-jointer-with-helical-style-head P.S. Probably shouldn't reply about the Insurance.. just read it and shake your head... don't want to raise anyone else's BP.. and or get someone kicked off here.. It's okay if I get kicked off.. that way I'll have more time to make the Gov. some more money

Don't feel bad.. I pretty much only visit the general scroll saw topics too.. then sometimes when things are slow I'll explore a little more.. and see all kinds of things I've missed, LOL

My planer is 13" and I wish it was 15" at times.. a 10" sander with a open mouth would be more than plenty big as i could sand one side and flip around to hit the other side if I was sanding a 15" board.. then again.. nice to be able to just run something through one time too.. and possibly better results.. i plan to keep an eye out for a used one.. meanwhile I'll be using my autobody big block sander and doing them by hand.. which won't take too long really with rough grit paper to get close then switch to a less aggressive one before hitting it with a RO sander

Thank you all for the replies.. I think I need to either save for or build a drum sander..

I don't care whether I'm right or wrong.. it's not about that to me.. I do like to be informed.. specifically on the Hawk saws because I have an interest in them.. and I figure in about 30-40 years I will probably be able to afford a old run down used one that will need rebuilt.. when looking at used saws.. I'll know that some have sealed bearings and some have shielded bearings.. For what it's worth, maybe this info with the newer saws is a cheaper lower quality saw with the shielded bearings.. My Hawk bearings was not in all that good of shape for no more use that I have on it..and Hotshot had to replace his bearings as well.. Yet my old school 1993 Hawk was well.. very well used. and I'm pretty certain it has the original bearings in it.. My Hats off to Hawk for switching to a sealed bearing rather than those junk shielded bearings.. Now.. if they can update the manual to reflect the change so when one does need to replace parts.. everyone should know what parts they need the first time they order..

I don’t have much experience with routers and was wondering how one goes about smoothing boards with one. What type of attachments etc one needs to plane boards down. Also router recommendations. Only thing I have is a small Bosh palm router. Pretty sure this won’t work to do that? Thanks in advance for your comments.

Thanks for the tips,

Not to be a smart *ss but I just looked up the PDF download manual for the BM series and compared it to my 226 Ultra manual and they both have the shielded bearings in the arms.. only sealed bearings are in the arm that connects the lower arm to the motor.. The bearing part number in my manual is 715-1208. That all said though you very well could have sealed bearings in your saw.. and they never updated the manual or they never uploaded a revised version.. I do know that Hotshot mentioned in a post about his BM series having the shielded bearings.. then a month or so later I took my saw apart and had the same thing.. Edit to add.. Looking at the maintenance section of the BM series saw it doesn't mention anything about oiling the bearings like my saw does.. yet in the same manual it shows the same bearings as my saw... which requires a few drops of oil every 20 hours use. That doesn't make any sense to me..

Buy mine at Seyco.. as the DeWalt and the Excalibur have the same style.. http://seyco.com/quick-clamp-renewal-kit/

They are nice..because it's a cheap fix when the insert gets worn out you just pop a new one in.. no need to change the whole screw..

They are not the same size from my DeWalt/Excalibur to either of my Hawks. Randy (Hotshot) made some or had some made so he could put the inserts into the end of the Hawk thumb screws. Personally, I’ve never had an issue with the plain ends of the Hawk thumb screws.

Thank you JT

So I’m not the only one that forgets to tension the blade huh lol

I’d like to make a end grain board, kind of wondered if you can run the end grain through the planers. That was partly why I’d like a sander. Beautiful work by the way!

Yeah , that was the first thing I looked at.. I believe it's the variable speed mechanism or the circuit board.. The motor shop i took it to is an awesome place.. If they can't fix it then it's junk.. LOL... I put a limit on how much I'd spend to repair it.. so they know.. Just hoping it's a cheap fix..

You know, I hadn't thought of that. I always thought that I'd like one of those for sanding the cutting boards down.. since I'm somewhat limited with the 13" wide thickness planner.. I've looked at the open end sanders where I could sand a very wide board.. Hmm.. I guess I better do a little research on these.. Quit a lot more money than the joiner.. but then more use's too..

I've read rave reviews over the years of the PSwood scroll saw.. and only recently read good reviews of their blades.. I buy my bandsaw blades from them.. Love the bandsaw blades.. but I don't think they are a PSwoods exclusive blade.. since they are the Timerwolf brand.. I think they are sold elsewhere.

Thanks guys, I don't know why he said he's having a hard time finding a bit.. I did a google after I asked here and found several sites selling 55mm bits.. including grizzly.. LOL

I have a friend trying to figure out what size bit he needs to fit a clock insert.. The mounting diameter is 55mm but Im not sure what that = in inch or what size bit he needs.. Thanks for anyone that can help.. I only deal with the small 1-7/16 clocks for the most part..

Are you sure they are sealed? I know you have a newer BM series..so it would be different than my old saws.. but mine doesn't have sealed bearings in it.. and neither did Randy's ( Hotshot ) BM series he bought.. had caged or shielded bearings.. My newer of the old saws had the same bearings as Randy's BM series.. I need to get that graphite stuff.. I've read a lot of good about it recently..

I was headed down a different path than scroll work and am planning to put together another web site with just Butcher blocks and maybe some kitchen utensils etc.. Will start a whole new name / brand of items.. Though some ( limited) amounts will still show up on my web site and etsy.. anyway.. I made these last week during some breaks from the scroll saw to ease the kinks in my neck from sitting at my saw making ornaments.. My jointer motor started slowing and acting erratically.. not too good for my new business venture.. or my old one.. I picked up my jointer at a garage sale 5-6 years ago for $25 Delta JS60? or something like that.. Took to the motor shop and they thought maybe it was something with the variable speed mechanism.. but they are 2-3 weeks out.. If I need a new machine, what would you all say a good unit would be.. at some point.. I wouldn't mind having a large floor model.. but my budget isn't going to allow that at this time.. unless I come across a awesome craiglist or other used bargain that I cannot pass up.. Even with a bench top model.. I rarely find that bargain deal when i am in a rush to get something to put me back to work though.. but t will usually surface hours after I make a new purchase and no money left I think I can probably make the end grain boards without the jointer so am going to give that a whirl soon.. My table saw is basically junk and something that I saved from a scrap yard several years ago, put new bearings in the motor for $5 and been using it ever since.. but it's blade run out doesn't allow for very smooth accurate cuts.. so making these boards with table-saw only isn't feasible.. Anyway enjoy the photos.. also open for photography advice on taking pictures of cutting boards, LOL

Maybe alignment issues? I don't know Hegner saws so I can't say.. but of other saws I always had to adjust the blade tension set screws so the blade goes up & down straight and square.. if If you have a small square.. actually I've used anything flat and a straight edge.. even a credit card once just for a quick check.. but set it next the the blade and run a cycle up and down.. I rotate the motor on the hawk without turning it on.. but you can also set the speed as low as it goes.. watch for a gap in between the straight edge and the blade through the cycle... at a fast speed.. it looks like a wobble..

I wanna say the manual for my hawk suggest every 25 hours use? I don't remember.. 25 hours of use is a long run time if your doing a lot of stop go.. ( fretwork )... Making puzzles like Iggy does the saw might run for 15+ minutes straight.. so I guess you just have to guesstimate LOL