kmmcrafts

Was a Hoot making this pattern and cutting it... Also picture of the moose clock that I was asking about in the general forum about square or round backer... I choose round as you can see..

I've thought about trying it.. but always thought it might get onto the cutout sections of the wood and show on the front side.. or be sticky and all the dust sticks to it over the years..

I just wanted to update this... For what it's worth.. I went to glue up another set of clocks I made this week a couple of nights ago.. and I looked at the same old trash bag.. wondered if there might be a clean spot on it from the previous use and guess what.. the glue from the last time was peeling off.. so I wiped it down a little just by brushing my hand on it.. and all the dried glue from last weeks glue ups came right off.. so I used the same trash bag as last week.. so.. I suppose I'm doing my share of keeping the wax paper out of the landfills.. LOL.. works great.. and re-usable.. when it becomes time to need a new trash bag for glue ups.. I can use it as a trash bag.. LOL.. Not sure if any old trash bag will do the same thing.. and couldn't tell you what type of bag it is but it's working great for more than one purpose..

Well the $100 Hawk turned into about $300 by the time I replaced worn parts.. you see I didn't know what to look for in them.. and didn't know what was worn etc.. so while the price may have been good.. by the time I got it running right the deal wasn't all what I thought it was.. and now the motor has that jumpy VS thing going on.. ( known on the older Hawks ).. I love my Hawks and every time I see a topic on them I try my best to let people know what to look for.. give the heads up on the motor issue.. as well as the wedges at the back tension cam and the wear at the front tension cam.. The other two saws was well worth the money.. and actually the old Hawk was worth it even though I had to do a lot of work on it.. I did use it quite a lot the first year I had it.. and the learning experience about the Hawk saws was worth the money I've spent on it.. Probably take it to the motor shop and see what they can do with the motor on it.. as it's really my favorite saw of all of them.. May even send it to Buston for a new motor and a going over..but before that happens.. If the local motor shop can't do anything with it.. then I'm going to run it until the motor quits, LOL then send it for a new motor, LOL

Maybe worded wrong or you took it wrong.. but cheap Hawks as in I only paid $100 for the 220VS and $400 for a brand new still boxed 226VS Ultra.. cheap as in low priced Hawks.. because I was looking for a back-up saw.. and was actually looking at the Delta deWalt clone.. that is until I found the cheap low cost Hawks.. and then also found the still boxed EX-21 for $350.. guess the word I should have used is low cost Hawks.. does sound better I suppose.. LOL But as you can see.. I should be plenty set on saws for quite some time... and I bought three higher end saws two of which was still boxed new... for less money than any of them individually had I bought from a store or BM ( Hawk )

Glad you're able to get back at it again.. even just a little shop therapy is better than non at all.. Take it easy though... going backwards would be a bad option just for too much shop therapy..

Just to give a more realistic opinion on the Delta and DeWalt.. as my last post was kind of in the air with what I would do personally.. If I was in this boat.. in fact.. I was because before I found those cheap Hawks.. and then the Excalibur.. My choice was the Delta... why? because I am mechanical and would take out the locking pin... make my own version of the Jim Dandy easy lift.. as i'd rather not have to fool with the locking pin when I'm used to the easy lift.... other than that the saw is pretty much the same saw.. but much cheaper. I haven't priced these saws in a long time.. since I have so many back up saws I don't too much care how much a new one on sale is, BUT.. FYI.. there is a new Delta on eBay for $299 with I believe free shipping.. says it was a display model I think.. I wish you luck with whatever saw you decide on.. I think both are basically the same saw.. just choose your color and run with it..

I don't have any experience with the Delta.. I've had a DeWalt since 2008.. Even though I've had the Hawks and other saws over the years the DeWalt carried most of the weight of my business needs.. I rebuilt my DeWalt in 2013 mostly the front bearings but took the back end of it apart and added synthetic grease.. back sleeves showed some wear and I've intended to replace them but the work load kept coming at me and it just never got done.. it's really noisy now.. and I plan to go through it this summer.. now that I have several back-up saws. As for the arm.. Maybe you will like the Delta arm lock thing.. I doubt I would like it myself after being spoiled with the Jim Dandy easy lift attachment for my DeWalt.. but for a cheap price point.. I think the Delta is probably a great saw.. for the money.. That said though... f you were to ever need to sell the saw you chose. I notice it seems like the DeWalt holds its value better than the Delta model... don't know why.. because really they are about the same saw..

From my experience... if you're going to be using the on board dust collection that comes with the sander.. stay away from the ones that have the little fabric dust bags... every one of the sanders I've had in the past.. the orientation of the power cord and the dust bag.. rubs a hole in the bag.. then all the dust blows out at you.. I've replaced three sanders simply because the bag.. now these was cheapy sanders and I could never find anyplace online to get a replacement bag.. So, my last sander I bought was a Bosh R/O variable speed sander... this has been used way more than the other sanders I had because back then I was just hobby playing in the shop.. not doing a whole lot of work unlike I do now.. I'm about 3-4 years now on this Bosh.. When I bought it I thought the plastic dust can would be cumbersome but actually less so than the bag ones I had in the past.. My only complaint is trying to open up the dust can to empty it out.. it is very smooth and not real aggressive.. I sand thin fragile portrait work with it with no issues..

I ended up just cutting the circle shape of the clock by tracing around the cutting with a washer as I always do.. i might play around with different ideas later on.. I all of a sudden have a customer that seen the picture I posted on instagram of it.. and wants to buy one.. so.. I opted to just do my normal thing with it.. was mainly looking for ideas etc .. I do kinda like the idea of rotating the square 45 degrees.. Might have to look and see how that would work on my next clock batch I make.. Thanks a bunch for all the suggestions,

Thanks for sharing that with me.. I have been wanting to make one so I could make some lazy Susan's and some cutting boards etc.. I did make a lazy susan last year and just cut it on my scroll saw.. I'm not all that great on a bandsaw with free hand work.. I mostly used it for resawing and free hand bandsaw boxes..

I do agree.. but I still strive for the perfection of a machine..

Yeah the pattern is in this book.. Well sorry I already deleted my photo.. The photo is posted in my post on the deer clock posting in the bragging section.. Edited: I copied the photo from the other posting

Yeah, I also can do very close to perfect cutting on one of the other more aggressive saws.. I know it's about letting the blade do the work... You do very nice work JT.. but I'd have to see that stuff in a much higher quality photo or in person to judge how good it really is.. My photos I take are with a high end camera... I see things on my photos I do not see with the naked eye.. Stupid little fuzzies really show up.. or a piece of dust, lint etc.. even though I sand the back.. use a reverse blade and also burn with the torch, LOL they sometimes are seen in the photo.. but not with the naked eye or even with my magnifier light.. I have to down size the photos to load them up online once I take the background out of them and make the back white.. Like I said I am my own critic.. I do have a hard time sawing on the Hawk with 3/4 - 1-1/2 inch stacks of backers.. but not so much with the Ex or DeWalt.. Not cutting on the saw brands.. cutting on myself.. Hawk is awesome for me with 5/8" or thinner stacks or solid wood.. I told myself this year I'm going to get used to using it.. I have not run the DeWalt yet this year.. But have used the Excalibur to make the puzzles I made.. Using the Hawk.. I just have to do less stacks.. because I feel like I'm watching paint dry or something, LOL.. Like I said.. not the saws fault.. my fault.. I do like cutting fast because that is what I'm use to doing on the DeWalt for the last 12 years.. While these clocks didn't turn out "bad" they are not done with my normal quality of work.. and that is why I was looking to maybe change the backer up.. suppose I can just use the DeWalt to cut those big stacks.. but that goes against the rule I set for myself of not using it this year, LOL... In fact very soon I plan to take it apart and put the new bearings etc in it that I bought last summer.. Then I will use it enough to do some testing cut for tuning it up etc..

Actually I think in my case just the opposite... I cut these on my Hawk which isn't all that aggressive cutting like my DeWalt is.. and I typically am trying to cut faster than the saw / blade is wanting to allow me to cut.. ( something I'm trying to get patient with and doing much better than a few month ago until I'm cutting 1" stacks of backers LOL. ) But that said.. I'd like to see anyone make two perfect circles with a scroll saw ( backer one slightly larger ) and glue them up to be perfect looking.. I get them pretty darn close.. but I am also my own critic.. Guess I get that from being in the auto body profession for several years..

I always stack cut if I want them the same and match up. But what I’m doing is making the backer slightly larger to enhance the piece with some accents so to speak. And free hand scrolling two circles almost never matches up. The last photo has a decorative outline and isn’t noticeable so much if I scroll off the line a little... but a circle smooth outline is a different story.

This is what I’ve been doing. But two free handed circles on a scroll saw many times come out different. Then try to center the cutting to the backer when neither one is a perfect circle gets kind of tough to do. Though that is how I’ve been doing it. Just kind of looking for a easier / better way. The two finished clocks above I used the washer method, love doing that but not so much when working with circles.

Great deal if it's truly what he says.. as for the picture.. looks to me to be a stock photo from a web site that sells them rather than an actual photo of the saw.. which is a real turn off for me when looking online.. I certainly wouldn't drive very far to look at an item with stock photos like that... also could be a scam.. may not even have a saw.. LOL

Yeah I have a bandsaw.. but I need practice using it to cut a circle, LOL.. I can get decent results stack cutting the backers and clock pieces out at the same time.. but. I also like to enlarge the backer a little bit 1/4" or so larger than the clock face.. just think it gives a nicer look.. that is if i can cut them and glue them nice and even LOL...

Something I hate doing is making a clock round with a round backer.. for one thing.. it's hard enough to cut two circles and get pretty much perfect circles with a scroll saw... then to try to glue them both together perfectly.. usually ends up being a little less than my standards outcome.. while I suppose not horrible as I done and seen worse LOL.. So what do you all think if I glued the clocks to a square backer board? Personally I like to use a decorative design for the outer edge of the clocks like the last picture shows... however that isn't always fitting for the design at hand..

I sort of disagree with adding more pictures etc of what you’re doing on a DeWalt. Mainly because there is several videos already out there and linked in several post topics. Just my opinion but if Bobs 4 part videos aren’t enough to learn about rebuilding a DeWalt saw then you probably shouldn’t take it apart yourself.

Thank you. I might add that I enlarged the pattern quite a lot.. original design is about 7.5 - 8 inch diameter.. I made them 10 inch plus or minus a little.. Thinking I may offer then in the smaller size and a bigger ( maybe 12" ) size Pattern for the deer and the moose are in this clock making book.

Made this yesterday.. was a fun time working in the shop with this warmer sunny day's we been having.. Working on another real similar to this but with a Moose... But won't be finished for another day or two.. Spent most of my morning packing orders this morning so not much shop time.

I’ve seen where it was mentioned to use wax paper. I get into trouble if I touch the wax paper again . So I found that a plastic garbage bag works well, and no additional garbage being made since you can still use the bag after the glue dries. I also use a body filler spreader to spread the glue around on the bag. Then just dip the piece in the glue and glue up. I did about 6 backers in just a couple minutes. Hope this tip helps someone from sleeping in the dog house after using all the wax paper. Don’t ask how I know.

You’re exactly right in thinking a triangular stand. My DeWalt has a triangular stand that is the most comfortable saw to sit at. The Hawk and Ex saw stands are less than desirable after having the DeWalt stand. While I’ve grown use to the others I feel a better designed stand would make the saw a more comfortable for long hours of cutting. After all a some of these high end saws are deemed as a production saw, so make it comfortable to use, lol