kmmcrafts

That could be some of my issue I suppose.. I'll pay closer attention to that... Thanks for the information

Rather than type it all up again I have my story on my blog.. But to add a little to the beginning of the story.. I never even knew what a scroll saw was until my dad retired in the mid - late 80's.. and I was just about to graduate high school... I'd seen much of the work he did with his saw and really thought it was cool.. Anyway this is a little bit of a read but gives an idea of how I got started sawing.. and what kind of pushed me to use a scroll saw.. I knew of the many things that could be made.. just never really sat down and "tried" https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/266174035886/my-scroll-sawing-story

Yeah, made sawdust tonight with it... actually the saw has about $200 worth of upgrades.. 3-4 new barrel clamps.. upgraded to a flex hose air blower, and brand new.. maybe 4 hours use on the upgraded new upper tension lever blade clamp.. replaced the whole mechanism per Bushtons recommendations.... I do question wedge and arms on the machine though.. as well as it does have that old motor.. I haven't really had any issues with it.. but it was used quite a lot before I bought it and I've put a few hours on it myself in the couple years I've had it.. Why I have 5 saws.. I rotate from one to another spreading out the wear, LOL since I consider myself a production cutter.. LOL.. I paid $100 for the saw but did put a lot of money in it.. as well as used it quite a lot.. I've really contemplated putting it up for sale.. but I honestly hate to sell it given the known use it's had and the fact the motor is the problematic one.. My luck someone would buy it and have issues with it.. SO... I just keep on using it, LOL

Come across the lake and buy mine.. I'd sell my 220VS for half that

Yeah, I also ask Buston MFG many times about the saws I'm looking at buying... If you go look at a used saw.. check the wedges at the back of the saw.. the point on the wedges is one of the wear points on these saws... Not expensive to buy new but they are a tell tail sign of how much use it's had.. provided they haven't been replaced already, LOL.. The wedges should be quite pointed with a slight rounded tip.. Check that the tension lever ( at front of saw ) goes down and locks down into place against the arm.. Look to see if it has a round ( barrel clamp for the lower blade clamp ) or the more square one.. Barrel clamp is a older saw.. Not sure when they went to the newer clamp but I know the Ultra saws started around 1996 and they have the newer square looking clamp.. In good shape.. with the square type lower clamp.. I'd say not a bad deal at all.. but if it's a barrel clamp style.. probably not a bad deal if in great shape... but I wouldn't say it's a great deal.. The biggest worry of the barrel clamp style is if it's older one with the older motor.. as.. if there is any issue with that controller or motor.. Bushton will fix you up with a new motor and controller. but the cost is around $300-400 and I think you have to send them the saw.. but maybe not.. maybe they will send you the motor and controller assembly and let you put it together.. Something to ask I suppose if you're interested in buying it.. Edited to say: looking at the serial number.. I'm guessing it's probably a barrel clamp style.. But may be wrong..

Yeah, I thought about that as I was pouring in my mix of mineral spirits and BLO into the old windshield washer jug.. Been keeping an eye on it and so far so good... but it's only been a couple weeks.. so who knows.. Guess I need to use it up.. I like the metal can idea best.. I didn't know you could buy empty ones..

I very seldom go outside of my box of mineral oil and beeswax once I found that solution for a finish.. But that said.. back in the day when I exclusively used Danish oil.. The top would get sticky from the spillage from pouring it out into a container to dip the work in.. then pouring it back into the can.. The top would get pretty gummed up before the can was completely empty.. Those tops have that darn " push down and turn to open " child safe lid.. they almost never work after the first time opening it.. I ot to where I just used a pair of channel lock pliers and t'd grip that child safe thing good enough to get it opened up.. without pushing down LOL..

For the first time in my life I made the mix of BLO and mineral spirits 50 / 50 as I've read so much about.. I mixed it up in an old gallon plastic jug of window washer cleaner for the car.. It just so happen i emptied the jug the same night I was trying to figure out what to use to mix it up in, LOL... Now... that said.. It's probably going to have the same issue of the stuck top, LOL On a side note... I didn't like the finish it gave on a project I did.. I even top coated it with a polyurethane.. Yuck.. I think the mineral oil and wax mix that I make myself looks soo much more professionally done, and a cleaner less stinky and quicker drying method.. JMO..

Yeah, not too sure about tomorrow.. for me it says high of 40F and rain... 40 isn't bad if the sun is out.. but just seems like that concrete floor in the shop with the damp weather brings down the temps 10 degrees.. Can't work tomorrow for at least half the day anyway as I have to take my daughter to a Doctors appointment..

Thanks RJ, Sure cant wait to be able to spend a full day out in the shop without having to come in for a warm up every 30 min. - hour LOL... Maybe I could actually get something done, LOL

Well.. that wait is the worst for me at this time of year.. because you know it's getting really close.. and a couple of nice days to tease you then back to cold really gets to me, LOL I work a little everyday.. some days it's just going out and drilling some holes or whatever.. maybe get a 1-3 hours in the cold.. depending how cold.. then I come in to warm up for a few hours etc.. But.. really looking forward to the nice days to stay around..

I will cut out many small areas before cutting out a large fragile area.. example would be the leopards lower chin area.. I'd cut out all of those smaller areas out of the chin... then cutout around the chine.. If I did the opposite of that cutting out those little spots in that area after cutting out the bigger spots would have me on edge.. so sometimes you really have to study a pattern to see what you need to do first and plan out where your pilot holes are going to need to be.. After you do a few projects you'll get the hang of it better and be able to look at a pattern and know better what you need to do.. I still mess up the cutting order and will get ahead of myself from time to time..and say... maybe cut the large portion of the chin area out first without thinking... then I say to myself.. Oh Crap, LOL then just cut it very slow and careful... and when that does happen.. sometimes I'll go to a much smaller less aggressive blade.. For stack cutting only two 1/8" like you did... I'd probably go down a size in blades.. I typically stack at least 3 ( usually 4-5 ).. and use either a 3 or 5 blade.. Can't remember the last time I only cut 2.. but I do know they get tougher to do unless you run the saw real slow.. I do know the last time I did cut only 2 I used a FD -UR #1 blade.. On another note with blades.. a brand new blade will cut quite fast at first.. Plywood will take the edge off the sharpness fairly quick.. so in some cases... after I've put in a new blade... Sometimes I will cut out larger less detailed sections to sort of take that edge off.. before jumping on the harder fine detailed stuff... just sort of helps from cutting too fast when you're trying to go slow and take it easy.. Edit to add: I cannot remember what saw you have.. Think it was you that just got the new Delta? Anyway.. blade size from one saw to the next can have a different effect on how fast / aggressive the cutting will be.. Example... Where I use a Pegas #3 on my DeWalt, or Excalibur for a cutting... If I was to cut on my Hawks... I'd jump it up to a #5.. as the Hawk is a less aggressive cutting action of the long arms vrs. the short little arms of the DeWalt style saws.. so basically the Hawk is not as aggressive cutting as the others.. and on the Hawk.. I'd still use a #3 blade for stack cutting only 2 pieces of 1/8 ply.. This is why many times I'm hesitant to say what blade size is best for certain projects.. because not all saws cut the same.. and not all people like to cut fast / slow.. it's more of a learning curve for what YOU like..

I don't have any experience with the Hegner.. but I've seen the tension levers in pictures... I'd think that those rollers things should roll.. But I could be wrong... Maybe if you don't get an answer as to whether they are supposed to or not.. maybe a video on youtube you'd see if they roll on others machines..

I've never used a zero clearance... nor have I ever taped pieces back in to help with strength.. While it may help some? I don't see it helping all that much since the cut is already there and weakens the piece anyway... I do the fragile parts first because I feel doing them last you have a whole lot of fragile going on.. plus.. if you need to scrap the project because the fragile section broke out.. it's easier to do with only 1 hour invested rather than 6 hours or more. LOL I'm sure others will differ with my theory.. and I really don't do a lot of this portrait style cutting.. so maybe someone else has a different or better method.. What I do works for me.. That Leopard cutting was one of my first fragile type cuttings I've done and was a learning piece for me, LOL

Ray, The whiskers on the left side of the picture.. I'd cut closest to the leopards mouth first then the next hole would be drilled almost near the point in the next cutout next to it ( smaller cutout ) but since I typically cut counter clock wise.. drill the hole near the point at the bottom of that next cut and i'd cut down into that pointed area and spin the cut up to cut along the side next to the last cutout ( next to the Leopards mouth ) cut up along that thin line of the whisker and then spin back around and come back down the other side to the starting point.. Then the next section outward from the mouth.. so in the whiskers area of that pattern would be the first part of the cutting I'd do.. working from the leopards face outward on each side of the face.. I do the weaker cuts first.. When I did this cutting several years ago. the whiskers was about one of the last parts I cut.. which by then you're working with a very large fragile area, LOL

Note the whiskers on this leopard I cut several years ago.. The ones on the right side broke out some.. because I didn't drill the holes to make it cut the weak side first.. this is the piece I learned to do that on. If I was to cut it again.. I'm pretty certain I could do it without breakage just by drilling the holes strategically.. This was cut stack cutting 4 1/8" 11 x 14... two was BB ply and two was oak plywood.. used a #5 FD-UR and some areas a #3 FD UR.. Another thing that could have helped not break it would be a different blade choice... reverse teeth are nice but for a fragile piece.. they can and will make a piece bounce around like you mentioned... that's those reverse teeth cutting away the fuzzys etc on the up stroke... Still looks alright and most people probably wouldn't know the whiskers on the one side broke out... now that I say it everyone will be looking at the spot.. but otherwise pretty sure the average person wouldn't know that.

I've never needed or even used a zero clearance either... I do plan my pilot holes to the cutting I will be doing.. IE.. I drill the holes so that I'm cutting right next to the last hole I cut out first. I've done that opposite once and when you have a cutout almost cut and are left with cutting next to a thin line like you mention it's more likely to break it.. Not sure if you follow what I'm sayin but.. anyway I tried LOL Edit to add:

I had only one time that I've had a problem with shelf liner.. I speculate that was because the BB ply was covered and ready for cutting for over a year with the shelf liner on it... But I will many times start a project and then get side tracked with orders.. never had any issue even after 3-4 weeks... I'm not certain what brand I use.. I just bought 5 rolls from Walmart yesterday.. Thinking it was a lot more money than the last time I bought it.. $5.** per roll of 12" x 36' ... was thinking it was $3.48 ish the last time I bought it... about a year ago.. I'd have bought more this time had they had more in stock.. I almost always buy them out when I get some, LOL

I think spiral blades are the best for veining.. I need to invest in some smaller drill bits though.. I think my smallest is around a 60 maybe.. all heck maybe it's a 68 LOL can't remember... as you can see I don't use them a lot.. That said.. many times I'm too lazy to swap out my straight blade for a spiral for just a small amount of veining too... this is where I like removable blade holders.. as with my Hawk.. I keep several different blades all loaded into a holder and blade swapping is soo much more convenient.. But heck.. got so many saws out there now.. I could just use a different blade for each saw, LOL Anyway, whatever blade you choose will work.. I just think the spiral blade gives a nice kerf and a neater look.. but either blade will do the job.. Just make sure to use some small bits and try to drill the hole in a thicker section of the veining area.. For me in the + I'd drill in the center or in this < > I'd drill at the points.. as where two line meet up has a larger drilling area than where there is just a thin line like this ---

My brother is a cabinet maker and the company he works for makes and sets up showcase displays all over the USA.. They did a big job in the Mall Of America several years ago... anyway.. much of the displays are made from Poplar and stained whatever color / wood type the customers want.. Not sure if the customers know they are getting Poplar or if it's known up front and they are given options for "real" cherry or walnut etc.. but at any rate.. They never can tell the difference.. I like working with poplar... I just don't care for the "look" of poplar in it's natural state... and I am not a big fan of staining etc.. so I'm trying to find use's for this smaller stuff I have since I will not use it for my clocks.. and most the puzzle patterns are bigger than the width of the boards I have.. but anyway.. I'll glue them up so I can make a few more puzzles.. Oh another thing I like about Poplar.... It's cheap... compared to my Cherry, Oak, and Walnut that I typically use, LOL Maybe I need to learn to like staining at the price difference

Yeah, I have my go too blades and the source for them.. Always liked dealing with Mike.. we sure lost a good friend when he past.. even though I've never met him.. he was always very helpful and quick to reply to an email etc.. I still use some of the FD blades and probably always will.. but I don't use them exclusively as I once did since I found the Pegas blades.. I actually use a few blades from Olsen too... for me.. FD, Olsen, and Pegas all have good blades.. and I use blades from ll of them.. just depends upon what I'm cuttin... and what saw I'm using..

I'll glue it up and see how it comes out... I'm pretty conservative so i'll find a use for it.. I think it'll be okay with making the puzzles.. Aside from puzzles... though.. to me... it's better suited for fire wood.. That is about how much I like it, LOL... Not a big fan of stained projects myself.. While many projects look decent that are stained.. I just don't care for staining..

My experience with Sloans is an awesome one.. I didn't like it at first because you cannot order online.. but wow what wonderful service and people those folks are.. Even at a slightly higher price I'd still deal with sloans.. I used to buy most of my clocks there before I started getting them factory direct..

Last fall I purchased a nice bundle of Poplar with nice wide boards at a local wood expo sale.. Awesome deals by the way.. Anyway I had in my mind to start doing the puzzles like Iggy and the others do.. The bundle I purchased got lost and most likely someone walked off with it as they couldn't find it anywhere.. They ended up offering a refund or having the option to get double the board foot.. I choose another couple bundles.. but there wasn't much of any nice wide boards.. but I figured I could use it or make it work for something else.. Now that I've used some of the wood.. I don't really like Poplar for any of my other projects I make.. Just don't give my clocks a "wow" factor like Cherry Oak, and Walnut does.. While I think it looks great for the puzzles.. I've used all I can with the puzzles.. now I have a pile of lumber.. guessing about 30 ish board foot.. that is too narrow for any of the puzzle patterns I have to fit.. Guess I could try to glue up some and see how it looks / works.. I do glue ups from time to time for backers and whatnot that isn't the main piece.. I dislike seeing wood grain that is clearly seen as a glue up and not really matching grain.. I just wonder with the puzzles and all the pieces would help distract the glue line.. Anyone do this that makes the puzzles? I guess if nothing else.. I've got 30 BFT of campfire wood, LOL

I think I've read to use Vaseline.. and seems there was a reason not to use grease? not sure why now.. maybe something to do with the type of plastic / nylon that the lever is made of? I probably should do that to mine.. it had something on it when I got it but.. I wiped a lot of it off because it was all over the handle part..but the part that would need it seems to be dry..