kmmcrafts

For the puzzles cut from 3/4 inch thick stock? Seems like an awful small blade for 3/4" wood.. if you get any bow in the blade from pushing and turning that 3/4 inch stock the puzzle wouldn't be square and the pieces wouldn't slide together from both sides very well if at all..

Yeah, #3 is what I use for for the animal puzzles like Iggy makes.. I use the Pegas MG for mine.. I believe Iggy mentioned he had switch from the Olsen Mach Speed #3 he was using to the Pegas #3 as well.. I sometimes will cut the outline of the puzzle with a #5... then cut the pieces with a #3..

Used that stuff doing drywall years ago... never thought to use it on wood.. actually I never had any left over from my drywall job and sort of forgot about the stuff until I seen this topic.. Thanks for the reminder..

Glad to hear you got it all sorted out and running.. That tension lever at the front of the saw is a must have in my opinion... especially in doing fretwork cutting.. Make sure you don't have leg extensions on the stand.. as Hawk does have a adjustable leg extension accessory kit to make the stands taller.. But if I remember correctly.. you had a homemade stand for your other one as it was made for a shopmaster? or whatever it's called..

I'd go no larger than a #5 blade.. I've cut a few puzzles now and some of the patterns I have say to use a #5 so that is what I used on my first puzzle.. A #5 does make the pieces fit a little on the loose side.. so I've been using a #3 ever since that first one I cut.. As for cutting around the outside first.. I think that is just more of a matter of preference.. but in most cases.. seems to be the most logical.. That said.. I've cut the pieces out of the board and also cut out the shape first.. I prefer to cut out the shape first in most cases.. As for the cut pieces... I typically will put the puzzle together as I cut it out.. but just came in from cutting a puzzle and this time I just set the pieces aside.. then I had another 2 hours trying to figure out how it goes together well... maybe it was only 2 minutes.. but being spring / winter / sprinter and cold after cutting I was ready to come in.. not play with a puzzle..

If you can plan it out yourself right... You can also cut out the bike... sand the tires down so there is a flat to glue to another board with a clock.. ie make a base for the bike in a contrasting wood ( or same wood ) with the spot for the clock.. to glue to the flat spot on the tires of the bike.. Then of coarse make a wider base to glue or countersink screws into for better stability.. I've done this when I wanted to make the base look like dirt as in a dirt road.. for tractor clocks.. Typically use walnut or spalted maple for the road portion.. and make the tractor portion from Maple or other light colored wood..

Isn't the locking pin spring loaded? ie automatically lock once the arm is at the height where it will lock? If so then I would think the easy lift would be a nuisance.. But if it's not spring loaded and you have to push it in to lock and then pull it to unlock.. the easy lift would make that process much more hassle free.. I wish the EX- saws had some sort of spring loaded arm.. while not a huge deal.. but after using the easy lift on my 788.. and my Hawks have a spring loaded upper arm that automatically goes up once the blade is unhooked makes for a extra couple steps on the EX type saws.. While I'm getting used to the EX now it's not such a nuisance as it was at first.. I'd say the Hawks have the best set up for blade changing for fret work.. for the saws I've used so far..

I used to use those mask like JT uses.. N95's ... But found they do not seal around your ( My face ) face good every time you put it on it changes.. I was finding I was getting dust inside the mask sometimes.. for a long time I thought it was just from my dusty hands putting it on taking it off etc... but nope.. always felt like it had a sealed fit.. it it didn't... that is when I switched to the Totobobo.. and while I loved that mask.. changing filters every day was getting pricey ( very small filter area ).. then a year ago I bought the Elipse mask.. been very comfy fitting and seems to work well for my needs.. I plan to hook up a dust collection much like some others have done.. and intend to buy a high end quiet vac to hook it to. Not sure which high end vac to get yet.. but been researching it.. I will still wear my mask.. in part... because it's a habit to put it on.. wife and kids pick on me because I go out to the garage to work on the car or anything.. just going to the garage smetimes to get something.. I put it on every time I go to the garage, LOL

Nice work JT!! I also add a spot for clocks as JT shows in these pictures.. I've done this and plan to do many more with the puzzle patterns like Iggy cuts.. but rather than cut out as a puzzle I cut it with the dog name and then ad a spot for a clock to go into.. Been doing this sort of thing for years..

His postings for the last couple months have been like this.....

Wow many nice workshops.. I wish I had a workshop to work in.. I work right in my driveway when it's snowing hard it's hard to see where my lines on the pattern are. .. I'll grab a few shots of my driveway.. when it's not dark out..

That's the one I use.. One thing many over look in a mask is filter surface area.. Before the Elipse mask I was using a Totobobo after seeing Steve Good do a review of it.. I loved that mask.. but the filters surface is about the size of a half dollar coin.. ( slightly larger than a Quarter ) .. and I would need to replace the filter very single day.. The Elipse mask doesn't fog up my glasses ( unless I don't have it on tight enough ) but the exhale port / valve is right in the front of the mask... I tend to get close to my magnifier light lens.. and when I do that the fogged up mag lens reminds me to back away some.. I love this mask though.. and I don't need to replace the filters but only every few months... which reminds me.. I need to order some of those.. I'm thinking once I get my dust collection fab'ed up.. I won't need to change filters but every 6 months or more, LOL..

I'm on many other scroll saw and turning boards as well.. however this place is the only one I really visit.. and my name here on this one is different than all the other sites.. not sure why I did a oddball screen name here.. as they are the same everywhere else but this place, LOL

Yes, I would use a accessory over having the screw too tight.. I used the Jim Dandy easy lift.. It's only $22 http://www.jimdandy.com/products.html

Cutting boards can be a tricky situation f you don't know your wood types.. and I see it all the time at shows.. .. if they are glue ups you need a water proof food safe glue for cutting boards etc.. I'd make them into clocks or you could always scroll a head shot if some music stars.. I've seen them with beetles and jimmy Hendrix etc... just some other ideas.. But i wouldn't sell them as cutting boards..

I also have this pattern printed and plan to make it a clock.. Though the pattern is originally kind of large.. I plan to shrink it down some.. and use a 1- 7/16 insert.. because that is the size I have on hand.. plus.. I personally like the smaller size of this type of clock.. Guess I think of it as a space saver and... less a plus is less lumber, LOL But yeah the original size.. I'd certainly use a bigger clock..

If I do advanced portrait style cutting.. I drill 10 holes at a time for two reasons.. I get to move around.. and I put a tally mark on the paper pattern for how many holes I've cut out.. Kind of nice to be able to tell in my listing ads on the web site how many holes was drilled and cut.. makes for some conversation... Could do a give away drawing if I was doing craft shows as a promo type thing.. I'd do it online but then there is no way to keep people from downloading the photo and zooming in on it to count them..

http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/product.php?productid=6661&cat=1023&page=2

I may be wrong.. but for some reason I think this is one of Harvey's pattern that designs the puzzles that Iggy makes.. I know I've seen the pattern for sale some where...

Thanks to all who have replied.. I'm looking forward to cutting more puzzles.. but more just looking forward to nice sunny days to work in the shop.. doing whatever type of cutting.. getting tired of these cold days.. but trying not to complain too loud.. because I'd much rather work in a cool shop that a real hot one, LOL

I live in the boonies.. and we just got electricity last week.. or maybe that was a few years ago .. I have 3 options for internet.. first is... No internet... second is dial-up.. and third is DSL.. Other than that..I have to refer to the first option .. I've had the slowest option for DSL for the longest time.. which for the most part worked for my needs... Until everyone gets home and get's online.. LOL.. I just bumped up to a higher speed one and it's much better now.. We have one more faster speed I could upgrade to.. hoping they get us some more options that are affordable someday soon.. I pay more for my DSL than most pay for the High Speed stuff that live in town.. and wow.. what they have is super fast..

I thought the FD scroll reverse blades was stamped but the ultra reverse was ground? The Olsen PGT blades are nice blades... BUT... they don't come in a very small size.. AND.. the smallest one (#5) would work for me in many cases IF.. they'd make the ends smaller.. it seems the ends on the PGT series blades are considerably larger than the actual blade portion.... FD ultra reverse blades are a great blade and was my main blade I used.. BUT.. they do have ( I think ) two teeth down and one up configuration.. they cut very fast and aggressive compared to a scroll reverse blade.. but those reversed teeth make for tougher turning and they tend to grab the wood.. if you're not on your toes ... you will be once it grabs the wood.. Just makes for having to hold the wood down better.. The Pegas MG blades are super smooth in turns.. and are a real quiet cutting blade compared to many others.. FD scroll reverse blades are a quiet and good cutting blade as well.. just they are stamped and have to be cut on that pesky angle, LOL... But I love to use them from time to time and keep them on hand.. dull much faster than the Ultra reverse... Pegas MG seem to last a really long time.. for me.. I think maybe 20-25% longer than the FD Ultra Reverse.. i've seen you mention many times about the FD Penguin Silver blade.. That's one blade I've never tried.. Years ago when I first tried the puzzles like Iggy makes.. I had a hard time with cutting the thick hard wood.. Someone told me to try the FD Polar blades.. I haven't found a use for those blades yet.. hated those blades... so yeah really blades is something that everyone has a different opinion on.. so I just say.. what I like and my experience is.. My next order of FD blades.. I plan to get a small pack of the blades like you use just for fun to see how I might like them... as you can see.. I'm not one that get's into a closed box with what I know is a good blade.. I like to try ALL my options.. I was skeptical that any blade could be better than the FD branded Ultra Reverse and scroll reverse blades.. The comfort of cutting and ease of turning sharp corners for me with the Pegas is very relaxing to cut...

YES!! That too... they are super quiet compared to FD-UR or Olsen PGT blades..

Those are AWESOME!! I also do a lot of car stuff.. I need to learn the pattern making part of it.. Can do many styles of pattern design.. just not on the things I like to make LOL.. I have trouble with making patterns of cars.. can do portrait style sometimes but not like these.. and would like to see car Ornaments.. just quite hard to get much detail in a ornament size pattern of a car..

The Master is only the master because he has failed more times than the novice has tried.. I have that in my signature to remind myself that I need to keep working at it.. Doubt I will ever reach the Master status, LOL... but i keep trying.. You only fail when you quit trying..