kmmcrafts

You did a wonderful job on those for being so big as they are!!! Yes Brazilian Cherry... I was trying to think of the most difficult challenge.. while the pattern I did on the B- Cherry wasn't really a difficult one.. just the wood was being difficult.. and I was on a schedule to get it done.. Also some projects that are quite large I find to be difficult to make.. and that is why i always said I don't need a BIG saw... I don't plan to do large work.. even been asked many times to make something on the larger size and I turn the work away most times..

Watco oil? Watco is a brand.. I use Watch Danish oil.. but they make some others as well..so I think we need a little more info..

Yes, the tighter ( closer together ) those rings are in the lumber.. the less chance of it cupping / warping... When and if I buy lumber.. I specifically look for tighter grain like this if it's something that the board will be hanging around the shop for a few days.. but... free lumber is free lumber too.. and I don't get too picky with free, LOL

For me I sell online so I put the name of the designer at the bottom of each ads description. Sometimes I forget to do that.. but for the most part I try to keep it on there... not for my customers.. for the designer. and for other scrollers that run across my listing.. Though most don't read it.. I still get all kinds of other scroll sawers asking me where I got the pattern etc etc.. This also helps me sometimes in locating the file on my computer should I need to make more copies of the pattern.. I used to file my patterns by designer... Now I keep files on the type of pattern it is ie clock, ornament, etc. and I keep a file only that are ones I've cut. and a file of to-do's.. so in looking for a file I've sold out of would be in my cut items folder then sub categorized by what the item is.. ie desk clock, wall clock, ornaments, and etc etc.. Nothing more frustrating than having someone buy a made to order item that I've sold out of and not being able to find the patter, LOL

Forgot to mention about blade speed. I run my saws between 3/4 and 7/8 on the dial most of the time. Rarely run it any less than 3/4 of the way on the dial. For me... running the saw faster makes for easier blade control to stay on the lines, that’s just my style of cutting and my comfort zone. I find at the lower speeds I tend to push too hard on the feed rate and can at times flex the blade. Everyone will have different cut speeds and comfort zones. And as for the blade lasting longer at slower speed vrs faster speed. I’ve never experienced shorter blade life with blade speed too fast but have with going to slow because I’m pushing too hard on the feed and creating heat. Blades burning up because of blade speed? I don’t buy into it... it’s more about how you’re pushing feeding the lumber.

I don’t think what you are describing has anything to do with the speed. I think what you are experiencing is different densities of the wood. Cutting pine ( depending on the type of pine ) has quite a lot of different densities throughout the board from real soft easy cutting to very denser like real hard hardwood. Depending on how dry the wood is too. Pine has quite a lot of sticky sap and can gum up the blade if it’s still green. The more you cut timber the more you’ll lnotice this really happens on all solid timber but many do not knotice this especially with hardwoods because there isn’t nearly as much of a density variation like you get with some of the types of pine.

I don't do that from someones photo... but... I do buy patterns and make my own twist on the design... such as.. This bass fishing clock.. photo below.. It's Sue Meys pattern from the Fishing themed Christmas ornament patterns.. I enlarged the pattern.. took another clock pattern and inserted the enlarged bass ornament pattern in place of what was originally designed .. When I do this.. I still give credit to Sue and the other designer in this case I didn't know the other designer.. but regardless I do give credit and say it was modified by me.. I do this type of stuff all the time... but never from a photo of someone else's work.. at least without asking.. if I really want to cut it.. In fact.. I've asked several designers about combining patterns to make my own twist on them such as described above and all that I've talked to had no problem with it as long as I gave the credit..

Happen to me a couple years ago.. but my computer was fine.. what burned up was a back-up drive ( external )... I lost about 15,000 patterns that I had saved from 2005 - 20015.. Plus all my personal photos.. lucky that I had also backed up some ( very few ) onto disc.. Call me crazy now.. but I back up to new external drive, disc, and a zip drive memory stick.. as well as onto a second computer, LOL And.. two of the storage devices.. I keep in my shop... just in case my house was to be burnt down or something, LOL ... Still not sure that I wouldn't loose them.. but the odds are much more in favor of not loosing them that they was with just storing on my computer..

Here is the youtube video.. At the very beginning you'll see the table and the wire top

Actually I think the whole process is on video but not sure what Scott's youtube page is.. also might be on Steve Goods site.. But I believe Scott ade a drying rack out of wood and put chicken wire on it so it could dry on both sides.. He just uses mineral oil for the puzzles..

Thank you, I hope I'll have plenty of stock.. Like to ad a hundred or so new styles so that is why I am jumping on the inventory now.. plus wanting to add several wall clocks..

Thank you!

Thanks Wayne,

Thanks JT.. I know you mentioned using Danish oil in many post.. Doesn't this stink up the house doing that in the basement? I will say Danish oil doesn't smell too awful compared to the Blo / Mineral spirits I mixed up.. and I even used what was called low oder mineral spirits... I do my finishing in the loft above the shop.. closed off from the dust etc from the downstairs and I open up the windows.. I still can't stand the smell in my shop for a couple of days.. even with the big garage doors open and the windows open in the shop area, LOL Going to use the stuff up.. but never making it again.. I'll stick to the Danish oil, LOL and my beeswax mineral oil mix that I use in the winter for rush orders..

Yeah, I like to take advantage of the warm weather..

Thank you, That is another great idea.. I wonder how many ornaments would fit on a line that is 32 ft long.. ... I'm about to find out.. LOL

Thank you, Nice to be able to cut them in the warmer weather..

Thank you, Yeah, right now I'm just trying to restock the ornaments I've sold out of last winter.. I normally stock about 200 different styles.. and try to keep at least 10 of each style on hand.. and 20+ of the more popular styles.. sometimes the 20 isn't enough.. especially when companies order them for the employees Christmas party.. not too uncommon to get a order of 200.. and usually a week before they need them, LOL has happen 3 years in a row now.. luckily I can stack cut 4-6 at a time

Thank you..

Thank you DW That's a pretty good idea.. My father use to do that... not sure why I hadn't thought of it before LOL.. This finishing area is actually an area that isn't used other than storage.. Its the loft above my shop.. the loft area is 14 x 32.. But I do like the idea of hanging them up better than building a drying table..

I been there and done that too.. which is why when doing puzzles.. I check the fit as I cut the pieces because no sense in continuing the cut... unless you really want that detail in the ornamental firewood

What 162 ornaments dipped in Danish oil look like drying, lol One day I’m going to build a drying table so I’m not doing this on the floor.

This was an awesome reply!! very well said... Brad

JT, as I said before... many people will have different opinions on what a expert is.. I mentioned many different things, but left out time being one of them.. coming from someone that is a production cutter.. and business.. I feel most anyone can achieve the things you mentioned as pumping out quality work if they took their time.. but coming from a production standpoint.. If I was looking to hire a scroll sawer to help with production.. those things you mentioned would be what I'd be looking for... as well as the amount of time they took.. I couldn't pay someone $20 hr. to produce $5 hr worth of inventory.. I'm in no way saying you and many others that have been doing this for years do not deserve that expert title.. I feel I am very good at what I do.. just as you do.. but giving myself the expert title based only on the quality of work only.. I'd have been able to give myself that title after the first year I started scroll sawing.. pumping out a whole 2- 3 ornaments a day.. now I cut about 15 - 20 an hour.. still the same high quality work.. just lots more experience with that.. I don't give myself that expert level because I'm not proficient at all styles of cutting... the quality is there.. but the production time is not... For instance.. I cut some puzzles that Iggy says he does in 20 minutes... since he only cuts puzzles he is very good at it.. Took me about 30 - 35 minutes to cut the same puzzle.. Again.. everyone has a different expectation or idea of what that expert title actually would mean... Also again.. not saying you and many others are not at that expert level.. I'm merely stating why I don't consider myself as being an expert.. I can pump out the quality in many various styles and materials .. but in a timely manor? most likely not..

Thank you for the kind words.. On a more serious note.. I kinda said what I said because I don't consider myself a expert.. not really anywhere near being a newbie either.. I personally think there are too many types of scrolling styles and materials to be scrolled that one would have to be cutting all their lives to be in a ( what I would consider ) expert level... everyone will certainly have their opinion of what that expert level means just as I do.. Some might consider themselves an expert scroll sawer.. but the only style of cutting they've ever done might be portraits.. or puzzles.. etc etc.. I've done a lot of portrait and ornaments cutting as well as quite a lot of 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick hardwood clocks... To me to be an expert.. I'd say you'd have to master all the types of cutting styles and materials..