kmmcrafts

Let me suggest White Oak over the more common red oak.. I've done some signs in the past and researched high and low on finishing.. I doubt I'd find the website again as this was several years ago.. Anyway.. the best suggestion was to use outdoor paint.. preferably oil based but latex was second behind the oil base and then the varnishes etc.. Anyway you just buy paint from the paint store and do not add any pigment.. it'll look milky white but will dry clear.. needs to apply very light coats though otherwise will dry with a dull haze.. Outdoor paint has anti mildew, uv ray, and bug deterant properties in it.. When I did my sign 8-10 years ago I used latex and it's still looking great.. outside in all the weather elements

I've never tried to un-cup wood like this.. i have in the past just flipped it over so the wood would breath from the opposite side and put some weight on it and it straightened out but not completely... Something i have learned about is.. certain wood types are way more prone to this than others.. especially thinner boards that are quite wide.. Something else I've learned is.. tight grained wood is less prone to cupping than loose grain wood.... Rarely ever see quarter sawn wood cup like this. and I look specifically for quarter sawn when buying Oak because of this issue as I don't saw a lot of Oak so the boards sit around for quite a while.. Hard to pick your own lumber for those that have to mail order it.. but if you have the option to sort out your own lumber.. always get tight grained boards where the grain lines are close to one another..

So just playing around in the shop and decided to try doing some inlay. I messed up though as I did several test cuttings to get the correct angle. Got real close and thought just a half degree would be about perfect. Problem was I moved it the wrong direction . Anyway it was a fun quick project and I can probably sand it down on the belt sander to get it matched up. This is about 1/16 inch off. Gotta say the tilting head on the Excalibur is a nice feature. This really isn’t my first inlay but I’ve only done a couple other pieces about 13 years ago on a crap saw so it wasn’t as enjoyable. Lol

Paul, JT posted about them being different in my post the other day about needing new miter saw.. Below is copied and pasted what he said so he or I don't have to re-type it all "You mentioned sharing blades with your tablesaw. That is a no-no!!! A miter saw requires different blades than a table saw. Do people interchange yes they do but run the risk of injury. A miter saw uses a negative rake blade or a blade with no more than a 3 degree rake on it as opposed to a table saw blade which uses a positive rake. The reason is with a miter saw you are applying the blade to the wood as in a tablesaw you apply the wood to the blade. The wood will have a tendency to climb or jump in a miter saw if using a positive rake blade. Something like when you run a router the wrong direction of the grain when routing. The router will want to pull from your hands. Highly recommend buying a good multi-purpose blade for the mitersaw The teeth count depends on material cutting and smoothness of cut. Miter saws tend to have runout in the arbors but when are new usually does not show up. People lift the saws with the handle and do not lock them down and things get wacky. Thin kerf blades help to not tax the motor so much because it removes less material when cutting. I use thin kerf blades in my tablesaw all the time. As I said the decision of 10" vs 12" is a matter of material size being cut. If you go with a slider then you make up for the size that way or unless you want max depth then 12" slider is the way to go." And here is the topic from which it came from.

Okay so yesterday my new power switch came in the mail so I installed it. Works great now, Yay... This morning I took at trip to my favorite store LLJohnsons workbench. Picked up a new blade for the miter saw and one for my table saw. Hope what I bought will be a good choice for ripping boards on my table saw for glue ups ( cutting boards) has to be better than I was using. I’ve already installed the miter saw blade and made a test cut. Wow what a difference!

So I don’t know if you have the same setup as I have. I took the whole jointer apart so I could reroute the wires. But really all that needs to be done I think is to pull the variable speed switch out to access the wires and the circuit board. I was going to just repair the circuit board by soldering a new pot switch in it. Not for me as I don’t use it need the variable speed. Not a big fan of modifying a tool like this because one day some other person may end up with the machine and hurt themself because of my modifications. So do this at your own risk lol. Anyway first you need to remove the speed control knob. Mine had a very small set screw which took a very small Allen wrench. Then behind that is a nut and washer. Then you can remove the 4 screws to get inside to the circuit board and the wires. NOTE: there is another screw all the way to the back that also holds the circuit board in. I broke my circuit board because I didn’t see that last screw otherwise like I said I’d have soldered a new pot to the circuit board. You really don’t have to remove the circuit board but I did for easy access to the wires. There are 3 wires on mine two white and one black. I just connected the two white wires together and I cut the black wire off over from the power switch side. I took my circuit board right out and pushed all the wires over to the power switch side where that came from anyway. If you can solder good I’d just buy a new pot switch and fix it the way it’s supposed to be. . I attached a couple of photos on my circuit board and the spot where it fits into the jointer. I no longer have the wires on that side so maybe you’ll see where that last screw connects to the circuit board. Quite simple fix to bypass it without taking the whole thing apart like I did. The pot switch is the little round switch where the control knob connects to and can be bought for about $5

Once a bid is placed the buy it now price goes away.. ( or at least that is how it used to work ) I used to be a big time eBay seller.. I know how this pricing scheme works.. I used to buy old antique tractor parts from a friend that used to buy out old dealerships that were closing.. Back in the late 90's early 2000 a lot of old dealers were closing up.... There was a particular gearbox that was highly sought after.. I was buying them brand new boxed for $50 used ones was selling for $500.. I'd start the bid at $100 figured someone would get a awesome buy at 100 and I'd double my money.. well the idiot placed a bid.. and the buy it now disappeared.. he won the auction at $1200... bet he wished he'd just used the buy it now at $100 ... poor sap didn't know I had 25 of these to list.. but play it smart and not list then all at once.. I waited about a month or so in between listings.. all of those I listed the same way.. and all but one had a bid placed.. 20th one I sold some smart sap just used the buy it now, LOL

I think this could be a decent deal for someone that was close by to pick up... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hegner-Multimax-18-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Jig-Pattern-Saw-NY-NJ-Pickup/173557373555?hash=item2868d35a73:g:dc0AAOSwPR9bq5QZ

I bought the Pegas clamp a month or so back... I don't know how a un-defective standard Excalibur clamps works.. everyone seem to think my original clamp was defective... If it wasn't defective I wouldn't own a Ex without the Pegas clamp on it.. That's how much improvement it gave my saw.. but like i said...many think my upper clamp was defective from the get go.. For me...it was night and day difference... I rarely would even use my Excalibur... now I don't mind using it but still do prefer my Hawk..

Talking over the years with other woodworkers and the topic always seems to come up about the new direct drive table saws.. the consensus seems to be they don't like the direct drive saws.. What is your take on the two? I've never used a belt drive saw.. I only have and have used my little cheapy Tradesman 10" benchtop type saw.. I have a big older Craftsman belt drive saw if I want to go pick it up.. was my father inlaws and was given to me if I want it.. back then ( before my new shop ) I didn't have room for it.. But before I do drag the thing home.. I'd like to know if I really do want it, LOL

My thought exactly JT.. and yes it is just a cheap Delta table top model.. I picked it up about 10 years ago at a garage sale for $25.. was still pretty much new.. While I don't use it a whole lot I'd also be lost without it for certain things that I do use it for.. I think Murphy seen me put new knives in it last year and thought he'd talk me into a new jointer.. At a recent wood expo show I was looking / thinking quite hard about the bigger Jet jointer they had on display.. but was hard to justify $1000 for something I just don't use a lot but still need in the shop.. Plus.. no more than I use the thing.. it's also hard to justify the floor space the bigger higher end ones take up.. not that I'm short on space (YET anyway ) Money better to spend on better saw blades as we discussed yesterday.. Like a better table saw and someday a router..

Yeah, I used what I had on hand.. in a normal situation I'd probably use a much finer paper.. Today all i had was 600 grit wet dry paper and I used it wet.. I use the black wet / dry paper a lot on the autobody business to color sand any over sprays etc off and then buff the cars out.. Normally use on the paint a 1200 for quick cutting blemished spots in paint.. but the final grit before buffing would be 2200 2500 grit.. but the finest paper i had here was only the 600.. so I gave it a go since i had planned to order new knives anyway.. but thinking I might not need new ones yet now.. probably pick up some finer grit sand paper next time I make a run to the bodyshop supply store.. That sharpening stone looks quite interesting.. and I'm sure is a much better way than even using the "Good" sandpaper.. I might have to invest in one of these

That looks like the one I was thinking about...

A few years ago for Christmas I received from my brother - in -law this jig to sharpen the planer / jointer knives.. I never used the thing and actually forgot I had it.. while going through my tool cabinet today I ran across it and though.. hey my knives are getting dull.. actually planned to place a order before the months end for some new knives.. So, I gave this little jig a whirl and I have to say.. it cuts quite well again.. not quite as good as a new set probably but certainly better than they was.. Maybe could be as good as new if i spent more time on them with different grits of paper.. but anyway.. Just thought I'd share my experience with this tool.. and wondered if anyone else has this or something similar.. I know there are tons of videos on youtube about making a jig with your table saw.. I was researching that a couple of years ago when my brother inlaw was here... guessing that's what gave him the gift idea, LOL https://www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuafdBRDmARIsAPpBmVXdE3HAHxBO4lqlSHgYOubgiwusTy9OgThqTfkOS-oxh8cJmt5bYRYaApXMEALw_wcB

Very nicely done!! I also purchased those patterns... probably be a long time before I get to them though..

JT thank you for your in depth reply.. I have to say I don't know much about any saw other than a scroll saw.. and really know very little about woodworking outside of scroll sawing.. You mentioned about the blades being different from the table saw vrs miter saw.. I'm glad you did reply... I done some research on saw blades today after reading that.. and I learned a whole lot about them.. and the reason for different designs etc.. To be honest.. I knew there was a difference in a cross cut vrs rip blade.. but honestly didn't know what that difference really was.. I always thought it was more about number of teeth more than anything.. and I've never been able to get a nice clean cut on my miter saw.. I always played it off to the fact I run some cheaper blades.. which could be part of it but more so.. I am really not using the right blade for the job at hand.. Anyway.. I learned a lot today about saw blades... and my next purchase is some good blades correct for the jobs I intend to use them for.. they will be mounted to my saws Table and miter before I use them again.. BTW, I ordered the 2" clocks today.. they usually arrive in just a couple of days.. so i'll get a couple pictures of what they are for you..

I started with ereplacementparts website.. they showed it NLA.. so then I took the part number from their site and googled that.. several other sites showed the same NLA.. Tried eBay with the number ( be surprised how many obsolete parts I've found on eBay by searching the part number with the brand of tool) there was a page there but was sold out.. So.. then when I took the saw back apart and got the switch out I entered the numbers off the switch and googled that.. Guess what.. ereplacement parts had that switch.. which is the same switch for a different model saw.. with a superseded number.. a little more researching found it was in fact the same switch..

I didn't know any scroll saw supply sites was selling them.. I might have to look into it.. Actually.. I'm considering trying one of my labels on bare wood to see how bad they might stick.. since wood is kind of porous they may not stick so bad to bare wood... Also I have removed them from old boxes so i could recycle some of the boxes I receive from shipments of supplies etc.. by using a hair drier to sort of heat up the sticky glue. they peel right off a box doing this.. not enthused about having to heat up wood projects every time to get the pattern off BUT I'll try it once with my labels to see if I have to LOL

I hope to order my clocks tomorrow.. I was going to do it today but got sidetracked trying to repair my miter saw ( posted about in the General section ) and getting some scroll work done.. before I knew it the day was over... My one and only complaint about ordering clocks from Sloans.. they don't have a web site to order from.. either print out a order form and snail mail it in or call.. their time zone is different than mine.. so I can't do it early before I go out to the shop.. then I always get busy and forget until it's too late, LOL Sorry to hear about one of the clocks not working.. I've personally never had any issues with the smaller clocks.. Had a terrible time with a batch of 3" from either not running at all or running way too slow or way to fast..LOL I think a bad batch must have escaped quality control.. still use the same style clocks and never had another issue since then..

I don't know if any remember how I had some issues with my jointer motor variable speed issue back in June.. and the electric motor shop said it's time for a new one as the parts are obsolete.. This motor service place use to save me a ton of money.. but the good guy doesn't seem to work there anymore.. They said the variable speed chip in the circuit board was bad and the circuit board is no longer available.. Well I did some research and found a circuit board but wasn't worth nearly $200to me since this same jointer new is only $250 ish.. Anyway I called the motor shop about bypassing the VS.. he said it was not able to do that on this set-up.. well turns out it is.. after lurking around the web and finding others having the same issue.. some guy posted something about if you have a motor with brushes then you can bypass it.. Anyway after getting this thing apart I see it has a normal pot switch in it.. however I don't care for the VS anyway and always left it on fast speed.. I just wired it to bypass that and it's working great.. Unfortunately but I used to brag and send that motor shop a lot of business over the years.. Doubt I'll go back there for anything much any more since the one guy isn't there anymore.. Good day today since I found a fix for my miter saw ( another post earlier today ) and now I got this jointer going.. Just didn't get much scroll sawing done.. only cut 10 ornaments today.. and my goal was to cut about 60, LOL.. Guess the day isn't completely over yet, LOL

I'm first in line to get one when you do... LOL I do this same thing many times with patterns.. then cut the board down in smaller pieces... My friend has a vinyl plotter that you just put the roll of vinyl on and cut out the stickers.. that's what made me think of that.. LOL... His plotter doesn't print just cuts.. but some of the more expensive ones do print... there you go.. another little side business to add to the others.. you can sell the stickers in another booth at the shows,

I searched yesterday for a good couple of hours looking to find a source for the switch.. Couldn't find any info.. Yesterday when I took it apart.. I seen some numbers on the switch.. but I cleaned up the contacts as best I could and put it back together.. and it worked for about two more cuts and then wouldn't shut off, LOL.... SO... the contacts shorted and melted together.. I just left it alone for the rest of the day.. Just a few minutes ago.. got to thinking about those numbers on the switch.. as we all know... Hitachi didn't make the switch and probably didn't make any custom switch that just had to be bought through them... where there is a will there is a way.. I just took it apart and punch in the numbers on the switch on google... wahla.. just ordered a new switch for $20 shipped.. After reading all your replies.. I think I'll stick to my guns and save a little more and buy the nice yellow DeWalt one that I wanted to begin with.. I just didn't want to but my bank savings down so low right now.. maybe after the holidays which will give me some craiglist research time etc.. I use the darn thing so much i'd be lost without it.. but if needed I suppose the table saw or bandsaw would work in it's place for a short time but.. I normally keep my table saw set up just to chop BB ply to size.. and would be a pain to keep swapping blades around etc.. Thanks for all the replies.. and look forward to hearing more since I'm probably still going to buy a new one that'll cut more like a 8" board in half without flipping the board around etc.. which I think a many of the 12" ones without the sliding feature will do.

I'm betting you they'll be too sticky to get back off easily... Mine get really hard to get back off if I stick them on then get sidetracked and they set around for a week or so.. I'm betting you should look into white shelf liner and cut it down for the printer.. Need a way to hook the whole roll to the printer... then you could print 8ft sections to fit your boards LOL

Well I have a pretty old Hitachi 10" miter saw that I bought online probably 12 or more years ago as a refurbished unit.. Guess I got my $50 worth, LOL The switch went out on it.. and I took it all apart and found the contact points about fried as they get, LOL Looked for a new switch and turns out it's NLA... Yeah I'm smart enough to get around all that if I needed to by wiring up an old toggle switch or something.. Which I may do just to keep around as a back-up or something.. I use the saw almost every day just chopping lumber to length for my scroll saw projects etc.. so not having it will be a pain for me as it was my go to saw for chopping.. anyway.. I bought it back before the sliding ones came about.. so anything more than 6" wide I couldn't chop without flipping the board around etc.. One reason why I'm not too pressed to repair this one.. LOL Anyway what saw do you have or recommend.. I was wanting to buy a high end something but not sure after looking at some of the DeWalts at better than $500.. I can spend that much.. but is the yellow plastic casing worth the extra cost over Hitachi or other lower cost models? My old one had a laser beam.. which I really found useful so that would be a plus for me.. Kind of looking at a Kolbalt from Lowes they have a pretty nice looking 10" and 12".. really like the 12" but then I'd probably need to buy all new blades, LOL... 10" is nice because my tablesaw is also 10" and I can swap blades around if needed..

I must have deleted my go to seller for them on eBay..or they removed the labels from their inventory because I usually keep them in my fav. list for quick access but just a couple quick links to show the pricing.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/250-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/152896747215?epid=1364563073&hash=item23995b36cf:g:4kUAAOSwjn9Zj2Gt https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Full-Sheet-Shipping-Labels-8-5-X-11-Self-Adhesive-USPS-UPS-FedEx-Amazon-FBA/372115530523?epid=17007863752&hash=item56a3d0631b:g:y3EAAOSw~l1Z8CSS Probably should look into different brands to see if I could save money on having to buy the shelf liner too.. be nice to find some that you could stick right to the wood and have it peel back off easily.. that said though.. I'm thinking that wouldn't work.. I'd rather they be sticky and not worry about them coming off my packages.. LOL