kmmcrafts

Thanks JT, I like those inserts.. I've seen them somewhere on one of the suppliers sites back in the day I believe.. I imagine they really set off the clocks quite well..

Yes I do.. here is pictures of the rest of the set that I have.. She never made the Marine one I don't think.. I don't have the pattern for it anyway..

Yeah that's what I was thinking.. I have a cousin in Linden.. and have been going to stop in at this place when I go visit my cousin.. just haven't made it there yet.. usually get to talking with family and stay longer than I intend to.. then the place it closed by the time I'm heading home.. It's about a 2 hour each way drive from me.. so I've never really wanted to just make a special trip to go there.. might have to just so i can go check it out though.. been wanting to check it out for about 6-8 years now, LOL

Thank you!

Thank you! Not my pattern it was done by Sylvia ( The Sawdust Mistress ).. she did all the military branches at the time and I have the set in PDF.. I have the others on my site but a few years back I sold the Navy one and never made a replacement.. Been trying to get some of my sold out stuff re-inventoried before the holidays.. has been a chore.. to say the least. make one. sell out on 3 others LOL

Thank you!

Thank you!

Run across this pattern I had from way back in the day.. I've cut it before a few years ago.. thought it was time to make another one for the website..

I just run across this video.. I know many of you all use a dremel with a router attachment for drilling entry holes.. If you don't already have one this looks like it could be made fairly cheap and looks like it could be very useful..

Not sure why I didn't think of a motor shop.. I was trying to think if a hardware store would have them.. Thanks for the suggestion...

Yeah I know... but for some reason I still want to at least say I can and have done it, LOL

My random orbital sander quit working this morning.. I took it apart to find one of the carbon brushes basically worn gone, LOL other one is probably half gone.. I can order new ones from ereplacement parts for about $14 shipped... just curious though since I don't know much about these.. but can't one just buy carbon material and make their own? This sander has these little holders.. and everything is separated.. ie plastic housing, spring and a blade connector for the wire to plug into so nothing is soldered or connected in any way.. If I could buy the carbon in the correct shap to fit into the holder and cut to length.. Not sure if I could buy these local or not if so where would one find it? I don't mind paying the $14 but would be nice to just put it back together today / tomorrow without having to wait for shipment plus.. they charging over $6 shipping on 1-2 ounce package, LOL that should be able to ship for $2.60 at most. I'll probably go ahead and order then but if I find something local well.. then I'll have some for next time, LOL

I was thinking they are the same company as the www.scrolleronline.com ? I used to get their little catalogs in the mail... I've never been to the place but they are here in Michigan.. maybe 60 mile away.. always going to go one day.. but never had yet, LOL

Yes it sure is.. I run it on the belt sander tonight to get everything flat and smooth.. Not sure what I'll do with it now.. thinking of making a box and using it as a lid. Next thing I want to try is Intarsia.. never done any of that.. so I may try a small something next week.. just to try it and say I done that at least once, LOL

I've never had an issue scanning them in the book.. I just open up the book as far as it'll open and let half the book hang out the scanner lid.... or are you talking the magazines? If talking about the magazines.. I bend the staples up so I can lift off the pattern section... maybe they don't put them all on bigger sheets in the center of the magazine anymore? If the pattern is in and odd place I fold the papers until I can get to the said pattern and scan it.. I've said this many times.. It'd be nice to receive a yearly CD copy of all the patterns for the year that was printed in the magazines... for those that have the yearly subscriptions.. I'd even pay more for the yearly magazine to come on CD.. maybe they could do that as an option or make a paid website to read the magazine... much easier to keep a CD than a magazine..

https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/

Let me suggest White Oak over the more common red oak.. I've done some signs in the past and researched high and low on finishing.. I doubt I'd find the website again as this was several years ago.. Anyway.. the best suggestion was to use outdoor paint.. preferably oil based but latex was second behind the oil base and then the varnishes etc.. Anyway you just buy paint from the paint store and do not add any pigment.. it'll look milky white but will dry clear.. needs to apply very light coats though otherwise will dry with a dull haze.. Outdoor paint has anti mildew, uv ray, and bug deterant properties in it.. When I did my sign 8-10 years ago I used latex and it's still looking great.. outside in all the weather elements

I've never tried to un-cup wood like this.. i have in the past just flipped it over so the wood would breath from the opposite side and put some weight on it and it straightened out but not completely... Something i have learned about is.. certain wood types are way more prone to this than others.. especially thinner boards that are quite wide.. Something else I've learned is.. tight grained wood is less prone to cupping than loose grain wood.... Rarely ever see quarter sawn wood cup like this. and I look specifically for quarter sawn when buying Oak because of this issue as I don't saw a lot of Oak so the boards sit around for quite a while.. Hard to pick your own lumber for those that have to mail order it.. but if you have the option to sort out your own lumber.. always get tight grained boards where the grain lines are close to one another..

So just playing around in the shop and decided to try doing some inlay. I messed up though as I did several test cuttings to get the correct angle. Got real close and thought just a half degree would be about perfect. Problem was I moved it the wrong direction . Anyway it was a fun quick project and I can probably sand it down on the belt sander to get it matched up. This is about 1/16 inch off. Gotta say the tilting head on the Excalibur is a nice feature. This really isn’t my first inlay but I’ve only done a couple other pieces about 13 years ago on a crap saw so it wasn’t as enjoyable. Lol

Paul, JT posted about them being different in my post the other day about needing new miter saw.. Below is copied and pasted what he said so he or I don't have to re-type it all "You mentioned sharing blades with your tablesaw. That is a no-no!!! A miter saw requires different blades than a table saw. Do people interchange yes they do but run the risk of injury. A miter saw uses a negative rake blade or a blade with no more than a 3 degree rake on it as opposed to a table saw blade which uses a positive rake. The reason is with a miter saw you are applying the blade to the wood as in a tablesaw you apply the wood to the blade. The wood will have a tendency to climb or jump in a miter saw if using a positive rake blade. Something like when you run a router the wrong direction of the grain when routing. The router will want to pull from your hands. Highly recommend buying a good multi-purpose blade for the mitersaw The teeth count depends on material cutting and smoothness of cut. Miter saws tend to have runout in the arbors but when are new usually does not show up. People lift the saws with the handle and do not lock them down and things get wacky. Thin kerf blades help to not tax the motor so much because it removes less material when cutting. I use thin kerf blades in my tablesaw all the time. As I said the decision of 10" vs 12" is a matter of material size being cut. If you go with a slider then you make up for the size that way or unless you want max depth then 12" slider is the way to go." And here is the topic from which it came from.

Okay so yesterday my new power switch came in the mail so I installed it. Works great now, Yay... This morning I took at trip to my favorite store LLJohnsons workbench. Picked up a new blade for the miter saw and one for my table saw. Hope what I bought will be a good choice for ripping boards on my table saw for glue ups ( cutting boards) has to be better than I was using. I’ve already installed the miter saw blade and made a test cut. Wow what a difference!

So I don’t know if you have the same setup as I have. I took the whole jointer apart so I could reroute the wires. But really all that needs to be done I think is to pull the variable speed switch out to access the wires and the circuit board. I was going to just repair the circuit board by soldering a new pot switch in it. Not for me as I don’t use it need the variable speed. Not a big fan of modifying a tool like this because one day some other person may end up with the machine and hurt themself because of my modifications. So do this at your own risk lol. Anyway first you need to remove the speed control knob. Mine had a very small set screw which took a very small Allen wrench. Then behind that is a nut and washer. Then you can remove the 4 screws to get inside to the circuit board and the wires. NOTE: there is another screw all the way to the back that also holds the circuit board in. I broke my circuit board because I didn’t see that last screw otherwise like I said I’d have soldered a new pot to the circuit board. You really don’t have to remove the circuit board but I did for easy access to the wires. There are 3 wires on mine two white and one black. I just connected the two white wires together and I cut the black wire off over from the power switch side. I took my circuit board right out and pushed all the wires over to the power switch side where that came from anyway. If you can solder good I’d just buy a new pot switch and fix it the way it’s supposed to be. . I attached a couple of photos on my circuit board and the spot where it fits into the jointer. I no longer have the wires on that side so maybe you’ll see where that last screw connects to the circuit board. Quite simple fix to bypass it without taking the whole thing apart like I did. The pot switch is the little round switch where the control knob connects to and can be bought for about $5

Once a bid is placed the buy it now price goes away.. ( or at least that is how it used to work ) I used to be a big time eBay seller.. I know how this pricing scheme works.. I used to buy old antique tractor parts from a friend that used to buy out old dealerships that were closing.. Back in the late 90's early 2000 a lot of old dealers were closing up.... There was a particular gearbox that was highly sought after.. I was buying them brand new boxed for $50 used ones was selling for $500.. I'd start the bid at $100 figured someone would get a awesome buy at 100 and I'd double my money.. well the idiot placed a bid.. and the buy it now disappeared.. he won the auction at $1200... bet he wished he'd just used the buy it now at $100 ... poor sap didn't know I had 25 of these to list.. but play it smart and not list then all at once.. I waited about a month or so in between listings.. all of those I listed the same way.. and all but one had a bid placed.. 20th one I sold some smart sap just used the buy it now, LOL

I think this could be a decent deal for someone that was close by to pick up... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hegner-Multimax-18-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Jig-Pattern-Saw-NY-NJ-Pickup/173557373555?hash=item2868d35a73:g:dc0AAOSwPR9bq5QZ

I bought the Pegas clamp a month or so back... I don't know how a un-defective standard Excalibur clamps works.. everyone seem to think my original clamp was defective... If it wasn't defective I wouldn't own a Ex without the Pegas clamp on it.. That's how much improvement it gave my saw.. but like i said...many think my upper clamp was defective from the get go.. For me...it was night and day difference... I rarely would even use my Excalibur... now I don't mind using it but still do prefer my Hawk..