kmmcrafts

Many times if you ask a seller if they'd consider shipping.. they will.. If you know the saws weight or very close to it.. one can decide if it's worth the hassle.. There are many ways to ship a larger item like this and at very reasonable rates... Fastenal and Greyhound come to mind.. Many times all the seller has to do is deliver it to the local shipping center and drop it off.. and many sellers don't realize how easy shipping some big heavy items really is.. as they only think USPS UPS and Fedex.. I used to part out and sell whole old antique Lawn and garden tractors.. Shipping whole tractors at times.. maybe because of that small business.. I just learned how to find shipping deals.. Use to ship a whole tractor for about $75 - $150 across the USA.. that was 15 - 20 years ago though.. but anyway.. sometimes a seller will work with a buyer on shipping even though they have it set to pick up only.. I've been on both sides of this as a buyer and as a seller..

There is supposed to be a nylon washer between the wedge and the adjuster..that is supposed to suppress the lever from turning.. mine turns anyway but I accidentally got some oil on the washer etc.. which is partly why I wanted to get the dry lube and spray the wedge.. I haven't run the saw much yet to see if it moves still after cleaning it up and lubing the parts separate from the saw.. and then putting it back together... I don't see how that washer would stop it from turning but they say on one of the videos on Hawks web site that f it turns by itself you need to replace that washer..

I'd like to get my hands on a Hegner one day.. Love the Hawk saws.. just always wanted to try a Hegner.. one day a deal will come along when I actually have the funds.. I've seen a few deals here and there.. just not good timing for me to snag one yet..

Someone here made a copy of the pattern for me and messaged me.. I won't be making any more than the one.. but I sure would love to find the designer and pay for their artwork.. Then I'd make them to sell.. Was quite interesting at first because I almost never cut 1/8 BB ply without stacking at least 3.. usually 5-6 stacks.. so cutting was a little different going.. I managed to get through it without breaking or messing up too bad LOL..

Great idea I could use a heated blanket and tuck them in at night.. then they are still warm for me in the morning..

That's a good question.. and I also would like to have one.. Might have to give them a call as they don't always have everything on the web site.. I'd like to have a couple of them.. also wouldn't mind one for the DeWalt and Excalibur.. since they all seem to collect dust.. I mostly use my old 220VS so probably wouldn't really need one for that one..

I cut this out for my 10 year old niece for her birthday. Piece looked like it’d be quite fragile by itself so I decided to cut from thin B.B. ply and glue it to a star shaped backer from walnut. Dipped in Danish oil today and in a few days I’ll top coat it with some lacquer. Wrote a little birthday message on the back and dated it so she’ll have a lifetime treasure

I did the same thing with the wedge when I first got my older 220VS and it has been working great ever since.. yesterday while cleaning etc I did it again.. as it was just starting to round a bit.. I do need to send my arm in at some point..

Those are beautiful.. You did good on those.. I've always thought about making some of those.. just haven't yet

I think this could be a good deal on a new older Hawk saw.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RBI-Industries-Hawk-220-Scroll-Saw-and-Stand-Never-use-Woodworking-Cutting-Tool/223078396058?hash=item33f082309a%3Ag%3AH6oAAOSwqSJbW8us&_sacat=0&_nkw=rbi+hawk&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

I bet when I go to the post office tomorrow to mail my packages.. your picture is going to be on the wanted wall for stealing that saw for only $150 That is exact same saw as my 226.. newer than mine.. I give $400 for mine.. and I had to put mine together.. ( still new in the box ) but I'd rather had a slightly used one that was already assembled for $150 LOL.. You certainly did good on that I think.. Now once you find the spot where you're going to park it to use.. I would probably bottom out all those adjustable feet.. loosen the stand legs some.. try to kick out the legs to get a good solid footprint to the floor on the legs and then tighten the bolts back up.. then from there you can fine tune those adjustable feet to get the least vibration throughout the speed ranges.. There will most likely be a speed number range that no matter what you do they'll shake.. just how those Hawks are.. This below is optional.. but it's what I do to kinda fine tune a saw.. especially a new to me saw.. I'd then take some WD-40 and clean up the bearing areas and then put a couple drops of oil on them to soak down into the bearings. Clean the wedge and the area it sits in with some cleaner / degreaser..I used brake cleaner for mine but be careful as it will melt the paint on the stand so pile lots of paper towels down.. then once cleaned up good use a dry spray lube on the wedge and the area it sits.. try to keep the top of the wedge from the lube though as you don't want the tension spinning on you while sawing.. and it will if you get lube on that... ( don't ask how I figured that out ).. I'd do the same with the tension lever mechanism at the front part of the upper arm.. break clean it all up in the sides where it moves etc.. then after it's cleaned up good with all the old oils etc gone.. spray it good with dry lube. Check the adjustment of that set screw under the front tension release lever.. you want it to just get some resistance just slightly before the lever is all the way back and almost where it will touch the arm.. maybe 1/8"before touching the arm.. is about how I have mine adjusted.. Once you get it all tuned in good you'll be glade you did all of these things.. it'll run and operate so much smoother.. Actually what I do with the bearings is I take the arms off the saw and clean / check them.. rather than the wd-40 and stuff I mentioned before.. but I'm not sure how comfortable you might be with doing that.. and the wd-40 and some fresh clean oil would probably do the trick just about as good.. Anyway.. the least friction you get with a saw buy using good oils / grease / lubes etc the smoother your saw will run.... and I've always been able to improve the operation of the saw from what the previous owners had buy doing these things.. and periodically doing them as routine maintenance.. Good luck with your new toy .. glad you was able to get a nice saw at a good price.

Well I finally found some dry lube spay for preventative maintenance and a small can of 3 n 1 general purpose oil.. I had oiled up my saw in the past but probably not the best method since I used regular oil rather than the dry lube for the back cam and front tension parts of the saw.. so I used some break cleaner to clean up all that oil mess I had going on.. then used the dry lube in the recommended areas and a couple drops of 3 n 1 oil on the bearings in the arms.. This took a good 10 minutes to do wasn't quite enough shop time.. so I then waxed the table.. seen how dirty / dusty the rest of the saw was including the stand etc.. so.. what was a few minutes in the shop turned into a whopping 20 minutes to dust and wax the whole saw including the stand etc.. she was dirty.. even though every day I use my shop vac to clean all around the saw and the dust off the saw etc.. still was dirty.. maybe with all the wax on it the dust will just fall to the ground LOL... Probably not but.. anyway.. sure wish oiling the bearings etc. on my DeWalt and Excalibur was that simple... After it was all done.. I gave it a couple of test runs... amazing how smooth the tension lever moves etc now I have that cleaned up and slick with some dry lube so the grime won't tick to it.. Now my 226 setting there all dirty.. guess I better do that one too.. then I notice the DeWalt and Excalibur, bandsaw and table saw felt left out.. before you know it a whole day of cleaning saws has taken place.. and not much wood products made..

Any certain brand you use for the Hawks.. I'm not sure where to get it locally as I haven't found anything that says it's dry lube.. until I found this stuff.. I've been using light oil but it's messy and not sure how good it's doing for the saw since it gets sawdust and grime stuck in it etc.. I know I read some of you all use a dry graphite..? https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/automotive-maintenance/automotive-grease-lubricants/blaster-reg-industrial-graphite-dry-lubricant-5-5-oz/8-gs/p-1498065592810.htm Think this will do?

LOL, Thanks Dave.. We will leave that one for JT, he is the real clock man and certainly deserves that title.. Without a lot of his advice from many years ago ( he probably doesn't know me on other message boards or even remembers giving me advice ) before the village was here.. He had helped me way back in 2006 ish on how to select clocks and sizes etc. for my very first clock I made.. No matter how good I might get at them.. he'will always be the clock man..

I don't have any experience with the G4 model Hawks... That said, of reading these type of forum / message boards over the past 15-20 years.. What I've read and heard from these saws.. they are superior to any other Hawk saw made.. so I'd say it's probably a great saw..

Just to show you what you might get into if you need parts for that front tension lever.. Parts are cheap.. and even if you need a whole assembly it's only $50.. the cam I was mentioning is only $12.50.. But anyway.. here is a link to the parts for that front portion of the saw.. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket/

Good luck! from what I'm seeing in the pictures.. It's a steal of a deal.. hopefully it'll still be there tomorrow..

not sure if this works on Mac but i also sometimes will right click on photo file and in the drop box.. select print.. then it gives a photo printing options with sizes.. Many wall hangings I will shrink down to the 5x7 or 4 x 6 size.. which makes perfect sizes for making Christmas ornaments.. Have also printed ornaments at the 8 x 10 or 11 x 14 sixe for wall hangings.. Makes quick sizing options. For instance.. this is how I change the puzzle patterns that Iggy sells into ornaments.. I just use that for resizing them for ornaments.. Hope that helps someone..

Appears to be in good condition to me..

This is one of the pictures of the saw in the link you posted .. good view of the wedge.. this photo shows the wedge at the back of the saw just below the tension cam lever.. Hawk has two tension cam levers.. this one at the back is where you adjust the tension.. the one at the front is more of a quick release for blade changes and makes fretwork much nicer than having to reach to the back..

No modification is needed to use Pegas blades on our Hawks.. they are just standard pinless blades like any other pinless blades.. The blade chucks are a after market retro fit for the poorly made blade chucks from Excalibur, DeWalt and Jet saws.. since these saws use a lower quality cast aluminum with steel threads on the thumb screws = junk clamps for these saws if you aren't careful.. but the Pegas upgraded clamps are a very well made upgrade..

I've never used the poster print option on my printer.. I've never had any luck with them actually printing where they print the whole thing.. Maybe newer printers do it better than the old one I use to have.. I got into the habit of using this program and it's all I use anymore.. I can custom size anything by % mm inches etc etc.. It saves in PDF format etc.. So I guess I don't have an exact answer to your specific question.. But here is the program I use called PosteRazor http://posterazor.sourceforge.net/index.php?page=download&lang=english

Yeah very true.. The car themed stuff seem to be my hottest selling items I offer.. And around the world is right.. Send many of these to Australia, Canada, and the UK... Few to Italy too.. I also think it's really cool that something I make here in my little shop in southwest lower Michigan.. is sent all over to many different states, countries etc..

First picture is the old style motor that is the problematic one. Second picture is the newer style motor.

That is the spring I mentioned that really doesn't do anything other than hold the upper arm up when the blade is is disconnected.. Which in the photos it shows the arm in the up position.. Now.. there may be another purpose of that spring? I don't know.. but I've run my saw without it for some test runs while doing some work to it.. I didn't notice any difference other that it kept falling down on me while trying to thread the blade through another hole.. From the picture.. in the link you posted there is a good view of the wedge that Brad mentioned.. that wedge should be quite pointed.. not rounded off.. but not sharp either.. I thought it looked to be in descent shape in the photo.. As for the motor.. visually the older motor is big.. there is a way to know but I forgot ( old age I guess ) The older motor is pretty good sized while the newer motor is a smaller one more like the size of the DeWalt Excalibur size motors.. When I say big I mean diameter.. I'll go out and take a photo of my older one and my newer one so you'll have an idea of how they look. From what I've seen.. the 26" saws are typically priced from $400 - 650 just to give an idea of how this one is priced.. actually see them for more than $650 but they typically set on them for months to sell them too.. but they seem to move fairly quick around the $400 - 600 range.