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Everything posted by kmmcrafts
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I cut quite a lot of cherry, oak, and walnut plywood as well as the BB plywood.. Non of those plywoods will ever come close to the quality of BB ply.... There is a lot to be said about a plain old solid hardwood.. it is more $$ for GOOD solid hardwood.. My issue with the solid wood is.. if not used immediately or sealed up good it cups.. many times it cups on me before I even get it home.. which is why I went to ply in the first place.. I haven't had too many problems in cutting the hardwood ply.. just make sure to buy a high end with a good wood core.. not the hardboard core junk whatever it's called.. I buy the $$ stuff good on two sides because I make my Christmas ornaments out of it.. but I plan to faze the hardwood ornaments out and just use bb ply.. and maybe will use a solid wood choice for my customers.. at a higher price option if they choose solid wood ornaments.. All ply wood I use is thin stuff.. 1/4" max.. Anything more that 1/4 I use solid wood.. One thing with plywood.. is it's ruff on blades.. Probably use two-three blades on ply where I'd only need one blade on solid wood
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Ray, I was just snooping around and found this light.. It's a little cheaper than the other one and I think it's the same bulb.. as the other ebay seller.... this shows the brand being nyledluminaries that is the same ebay name as the other seller.. Kind of guessing its the same light due to the name.. just different seller.. shows the same box that mine came in as well.. Only a couple bucks cheaper but hey.. it's a few bucks.. Here is the link to that one.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-inch-Circline-T9-6000K-Daylight-LED-Relamp-FLOUR-FC8T9-Bulb-w-o-Rewiring/273016883142?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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Your only options that I know of is the Excalibur in the 21 inch saw. The stores that sell the excelsior cannot ship those to the USA ( I tried that before they brought back the Excalibur) . As for the HD not having them at your store online yet. They ship these either to store or to your home. So if you really want one you need to change your store to one that sells them I’m thinking then have it shipped to your home. Or make the purchase through Rockler who also sells them. Other option is going bigger or smaller to the King brand from woodcraft. Which might be the better deal right now since they are giving a free stand with the purchase of the saw. Maybe they are running this deal for the Excalibur too?
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Sue Mey just posted a crap load of earrings and pendants. the other day.. looked like some real nice designs. Think she was selling the whole set of them.. not sure how much it was..
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Gave away a saw . . . . bought another one
kmmcrafts replied to hotshot's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Your profile shows NW FL.. there was one not too long ago but was south FL.. Ex-21 for $350 with stand and foot switch.. Probably a long drive for you though.. -
Gave away a saw . . . . bought another one
kmmcrafts replied to hotshot's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Yeah my saw didn't come with a stand.. I ended up buying one from a member here though.. -
Gave away a saw . . . . bought another one
kmmcrafts replied to hotshot's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Nice!! Think it should work out great.. I believe they come with a rubber feet option? My EX-21 did anyway.... but I didn't use them since I mounted it to the stand.. -
Yes the down stroke would be your cutting stroke so the teeth need to face downward. or holding the blade at the top and run your finger up from the bottom would be he rough way.. Hope that made sense LOL I get myself confused talking about it I just do it naturally.. but thinking about it gets me confused. LOL
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Ray, after thinking about it.. are you sure the one light doesn't have a starter?.. My older light from Hawk has a starter that goes in from the outside of the ring.. the other two lights have the started but they are hidden kind of underneath the bulb.. not far from the electronics ( switch and bulb plug ).. It's not a very big starter thing.. Anyway.. the one I linked to in my first posting from ebay.. that was the brightest one.. I plan to order another of those.. On the listing it states that it will NOT work without the starter.. Also just to be sure.. check to see how many terminals are on the bulb you have.. they make these with either 2 or 4 terminals.. all of mine have the 4.. Another thing nice about the one from ebay.. The plug in part on the bulb swivels.. The other bulb does not.. and it doesn't fit as nicely into the fixture.. I read some reviews on some of the lights.. and there was complaints about that. so in your research keep that in mind.. The led light I purchased both work in all three of my lights.. but like I said.. all three have the starters.. I'm betting yours might have it too just tucked back up under the bulb.. you'll see it once you unhook your bulb..
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I believe both my lights I put the led bulbs in have a starter. That said my old hawk saw came with a older light which I know has the starter. When I get back home either tonight or tomorrow I’ll try to check if the bulbs with in it. The two newer lights I have are from Menards but I think they are the same as the HF one.
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That’s a pretty awesome stand.
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Those blades are so small I'm not sure you'll see the teeth to know what way is down anyway.. I've cut a few of these jigsaw puzzles several years ago.. What I do is run my finger on the blade to see what way the teeth are. running the finger down the teeth in both directions to see what way is rough feeling.. Those FD puzzle blades are awesome for doing these puzzles..
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Nice work!! I've done basically the same cars.. but as clocks.. They are a huge hit for me on Etsy.. though if you try to sell these online.. I'd take the bowtie emblems off.. my friend got busted on that one.. with his decal business..
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Well it's great to hear of you're improvements and that the bride is doing good as well, Will be sending many more prayers your way for a quick strengthening so you can get back out to make some sawdust, LOL.. Not sure about you.. but I hate having to just sit around.. Last year I tore my calf muscle almost clean in half.. was out of service for quite some time.. The leg still bothers me especially in this cold weather.. Anyhow, again, glad to hear things are improving for you.. take it easy and don't over do it.. as that will set you back again..
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I thought i'd update this.. a week ago I purchased another LED replacement bulb for my other magnifier light.. The link below is the one I bought.. I was quite excited to see this locally and at the price because the other one was double this cost.. However this cheaper light is bright.. the color temp is cool and gives off a yellowish color tone that I don't care for nearly as much as I like the other more $$ light from this original thread topic.. I still have one more light I want to swap over to the LED and I plan to buy another one from the link in the first post.. Just not as happy with cool white color temp.. like it said.. it's bright and I'll use it.. but the more expensive one is much better to use.. So if you like the bright daylight style lights.. don't buy the one in this link.. get the one I mentioned above https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/light-bulbs/led-light-bulbs/meridian-22w-equivalent-general-purpose-cool-white-8-circular-led-light-bulb/13144/p-1463764639381-c-7482.htm?tid=4568103942767000130&ipos=165
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When I built my shop in 2012.. I bought the T8 fixtures.. but then put in LED bulbs these here.. https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/light-bulbs/led-light-bulbs/sylvania-reg-48-17w-equivalent-linear-daylight-t8-led-bulb-replacement/75062-75042/p-1456889156784-c-7482.htm?tid=7405467454301585160&ipos=2 In 2015 my friend bought from LED light fixtures.. sealed unit I think as he couldn't change the bulb... his stopped working already and he works a full time with overtime job so those lights didn't get much hours before they stopped working.. they had a 5 year warranty.. he took them back and Menards replaced them no questions.. I personally like the option of replaceable bulbs especially when you have different color temp options etc.. I'll never buy a sealed unit unless there is not any other option, LOL
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Yeah, Been there done that one already. . Lucky I knew what was happening before I ruined the cut..
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Having owned many saws from old Deltas to DeWalts to the Hawks and now the EX-21 I picked up late last year.. If I could only have the one saw.. I think I'd choose the EX-21.. I like each saw I have for different reasons and cutting styles.. but the one and only comfortably using saw for every style of cutting i do.. for me.. the Ex21 fits that bill best overall.. Yes there are a couple of things I don't like about the EX too.. But like I said overall it's the simplest and most user friendly saw of all those I have.. for the type of cutting i use the saws for.. If I was stuck doing portrait work all the time in thin stock.. then the Hawk is a nice fit.. If I was cutting thick material and wanting to cut fast.. The Dewalt is my choice. but the Ex will do both of those with ease.. I think you'll be very happy with the EX-21
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Very nice!! Who's pattern? I've seen this around before and have wanted to make them.. but I never did find the pattern for it..
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Nice work as always!! You must have been cutting for about 4-5 hours to get that many..
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1" Belt Sander VS Oscillating Spindle Sander
kmmcrafts replied to RangerJay's topic in General Scroll Sawing
The rigid sander like shown above is what mine is... that I don't use much, LOL.. my go to sander is the 4 x 48 belt / disc sander.. -
1" Belt Sander VS Oscillating Spindle Sander
kmmcrafts replied to RangerJay's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Probably depends on the type of work you would be sanding.. I picked up a spindle sander a few years back.. It's great for sanding contours etc.. but you cannot sand any flat work on it like you could with the belt sander.. I have the belt sander as well.. I rarely use the spindle sander.. but I also don't do much sanding other than to sand flat surfaces.. Maybe if I was doing intarsia type work then the spindle sander would do most of the work.. both sanders are nice to have.. you just have to weigh out your decision based on the type of sanding you do most.. -
I thought the 50/50 mix like that was about the same thing as Danish oil.. other than danish oil has a varnish mix in it too..
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The newest catalog can be viewed online http://www.klingsporswoodworkingcatalog.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2018_Vol_4/page/1 I only see one page for the sanding mop.. but if you scroll down there are several links to other mop items http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36120/?inMed=GSTORE&dfw_tracker=18711-5664&gclid=Cj0KCQiAieTUBRCaARIsAHeLDCSbaCjeNtuQW6ncRP16bhRnvqhQrh34a3TDI5xu_go2QDScmqKcCiwaAj94EALw_wcB
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Trying to decide what to finish my Harley puzzle that I posted in the bragging section with... I know Iggy and some of the others use mineral oil.. I have it as well as Danish oil.. My issue with dipping Oak in the oils is.. it likes to bleed out for a long time.. The other puzzles I've made I used the beeswax and mineral oil mix that I typically use for other projects.. but brushing the wax on all the pieces is a little too time consuming.. would rather dip them.. but again.. hate dipping oak.. So what would you suggest.. or how do you all finish oak.. I'm leaning towards the danish oil.. because the way it makes the grain pop.. maybe the mineral oil will do the same.. I've never used just mineral oil.. The mineral oil and wax mix looks much like the Danish oil finish with a slight sheen to it.. and typically my go to finish Thanks in advance for your replies,
