kmmcrafts

I don't remember where I bought mine at now.. but since we have a Menards and a Lowes I am assuming I got it at one of the two.. I bought mine in a quart.. I would assume you could get it in whatever size they sell it in.. The places around here that sell house paint get it pre-measured already in the can and shoppers can go back and pick what can / brand they want... then bring it to the counter to be colored.. Just tell them you don't want the color added, LOL But do have them shake it up for you.. You won't get quite a full can because they leave room for the color to be added.. They most likely will think you are off your rocker to LOL Kevin

I was told to use regular outdoor house paint.. they say it beats any other finish.. you have to buy it plain no pigment in it.. paint stores will think you're crazy for buying just the base, LOL.. When I bought mine I explained to the guy what I was doing.. he didn't believe it would dry clear and asked if he could do a small spot sample to see.. I used it once and the project still looks great ( about 4 years now ).. If you do go that route.. The stuff looks milky white.. but will dry clear.. you have to use several real light coats though.. too heavy of coats will make it dry sort of hazy and also can have the milky white look too if very heavy coats are applied..

Okay this is a lighter duty one.. it's the triangle shaped one and only have one mounting hole.. the ones I use are more of a D shape and have two holes for mounting the hanger to the project.. very heavy duty.. probably overkill really but I'd rather know it's not going to fall and smash into several pieces that take a chance. http://cherrytreetoys.com/brass-d-ring-hangers/

On my heavier projects I use a D loop hanger.. some of the lighter duty ones are more of a triangle shape.. they typically have two screw holes to screw to the back of the project. i'll see if I can find a image of what I am talking about.. as I am not certain of what they are actually called.. Kevin

I am happy that you found part of the problem of using your new saw.. Even though you have that portion figured out.. it's still going to take some time to adjust to the different design of the Hawk.. I think if you give it enough time you will like it.. I like my Hawk a lot won't say I love it.. because every saw I have used I found things I think they could have done better.. My DeWalt has been an awesome saw for me for over 10 years.. Yes.. I've replaced the bearings in it a few times.. I have the newer Type 2 but I think for a $425 saw ( what I paid new with stand and light ) and have pretty much run it 8 hours a day which is way more than what it was designed to do at a mid level saw.. over those years the saw has paid for itself and several other large tools and equipment..not to mention the new shop 24 x 32 with a 14 x 32 loft.. so yeah I don't think DeWalts are junk.. they do what they were designed to do.. or at least mine has.. I just need more of a production type saw.. which used Hawks can be had for a price of a new DeWalt so I tried one.

The older Hawks have the same style ( barrel ) clamps as the new Jet saws.. But the newer Hawks have like the ones shown above.. My old Hawk has the Jet style and my newer Hawk has the ones like pictured above.. I like both really.. took some getting used to at first though.. Kevin

Wish I was closer.. I'd come take it off your hands if you really don't want to use it.. I bought my first used Hawk 220VS (1993) model last Oct. played around a little with it but it had some issues.. few worn parts.. but main issue was user error.. I put it aside until after the big holiday sales rush ( I sell Christmas ornaments and a lot of them.. ) After taking the needed time to actually learn the saw I have grown to love it.. while I still do have times where I will go to the old Dewalt if I am in a rush on a project.. because like you.. after many years of scrolling on the DeWalt.. I am still more comfy on it.. given the fact that I have only had my newest Hawk 226 Ultra (1998 ) for 2 weeks.. I understand what you mean when you say it seems like they could put the switch in a better location.. that said though.. with the design of the saw.. where do you suppose they could put it? I think they did better by just offering up a free foot switch with every saw.. most people that go buy a DeWalt most likely go out and buy a foot switch anyway.. so why bother redesigning the saw for a more convenient power switch.. just seem logical to me to throw in a foot switch since it is actually a safer option anyway since you have to have your foot on the switch to run it.. If you've ever worked in a factory you will notice that most machines have a foot switch.. for the production machines.. why change that up on a Hawk.. after all it was built for commercial / production use.. made to last.. with sealed bearings open design so when / if a part wares out you can see what is going on and quickly repair it and be back up and running in no time.. If you've ever taken a DeWalt apart for replacing bearings.. you will really see how cheaply made they really are.. with stamped steel arms that I am surprised they don't bend when tension is applied to the blade, LOL.. they use open needle bearings so the dust / dirt can get in and do a number on the bearings and sleeves... I know because I have rebuilt my DeWalt 2 times and it needs it again.. BTW.. Not bashing the DeWalt.. just telling the truth.. I have one, and use it.. I do love the machine.. but it's not made to do the work I throw at it.. Like I said.. I make and sell Christmas ornaments.. I don't have time to dink around rebuilding Dewalt saws every year.. plus the motor doesn't like to run in the cold weather.. no heat in my shop yet and it gets cold here in Michigan.. You know... everything you say about the Hawk.. I can say about DeWalt.. DeWalt is a good saw.. why can't they use sealed bearings? why put the power switch up on top without sealing it up.. most power switches quit working after 6-12 months and most replace it buy buying a foot switch and covering up ( dust sealing ) the new switch.. Anyway my point is take your time to learn to use the saw and you most likely would like it.. I've been doing most my cutting on my Hawk since Mid January.. but I still go back to the DeWalt for certain projects etc. I've gotten to be just about as fast cutting on my Hawk ( finally ).. If you don't want to take that time.. then I suppose sell it.. DeWalts are a good saw for a hobbyist.. but the amount of work I do.. I need a real machine to depend on.. so I have no choice but to give it a good long hard try.. or end up with several DeWalts and start paying someone to repair them for me.. I sent mine out once then I ended up spending a day tuning it as the repair shop didn't square the blade or the table and had the table on wrong to begin with so I still end up taking time to work on it..

I highly doubt that simply because every one has a different cutting style.. not everyone cut's thin / thick wood etc. etc... If I was to cut only 1/8 - 1/4 stock,, I love my old Hawk.. as it's not so aggressive to cut that thin wood.. But if I cut 1/2 - 1" then I like cutting at max speed on my aggressive cutting DeWalt best.. many people don't like the aggressive cut that the DeWalts have.. some have went to great lengths to modifies there DeWalts so they wouldn't cut so aggressively.. But anyway.. like I said.. everyone has their style of cutting.. which is why you see so many people that like certain types of saws better than others.. I like my Hawk saws for certain styles of cutting.. while I like My old DeWalt for other types of work.. just like the quick set blade clamps from Delta saws.. Many people rave over them and put them on other types of saws..myself.. I couldn't get used to them on the two different Deltas I have ( SS350LS and 40-530 ).. I always would get them too tight or too loose.. Those two saws i move out of my shop and put into my storage shed.. ended up selling one a couple years ago.. So I doubt someone could make one perfect saw that everyone would rave over.. but I do understand what you mean.. it just wouldn't happen..

Yeah, my saw is on that roll pin too.. and the blade flexes to the back a whole lot.. unlike the DeWalts that have a very firm blade once mounted up against the back of the holders and tighten down.. The older Deltas that I have used in the past had the roll pin deal like the Hawks.. Honestly I feel it's a better design because it helps prevent from over pushing on the blade.. really hard to get used to though.. For what its worth.. the older hawk's lower barrel clamp also can pivot some for you get it from both ends of the blade.. I always felt like I had to really push the blade through the wood to get it to cut.. but once I relaxed and just let the blade do it'd job the saw cuts real nice.. just seems real slow at doing it though LOL.. Kevin

I went from a 788 to a old style Hawk 220VS with the barrel clamps.. wow was that hard to get used to.. I did get more comfortable using it.. then just a couple weeks ago I picked up a new 226 ultra.. that was a little easier to get used to but yes.. any saw changes Hawk or otherwise when going from a 788.. it hard to get used to.. I wonder if you need to adjust the forward / back motion of the blade to help it slow down or speed up ( more or less aggressive cut ) the cutting.. My issue with my 220 was it cut way less aggressive and I found myself trying to push the blade through faster and bowing the blade etc.. its a much slower and less aggressive saw.. The 226 has two positions to put the lower blade clamp in.. one for more aggressive cutting.. which is the one i use on it.. like that saw very much.. but it is still an adjustment from the other saws.. and if I am in a hurry to get a order done.. then I use my old 788...but if I am just making new products etc and not really in a rush i cut on the Hawk to get used to it.. Kevin

Well after 12 years of doing these stupid mistakes.. You'd think I would of double checked.. I typically do this about once every couple years.. I remember for a while and then get too relaxed I guess.. then bam... did it again.. don't imagine I will do it again for a little while anyway. LOL

One thing that can help in the future is to look for wood that the grain is close together or tight grained wood.. also.. a little more pricey but quarter sawn wood also holds it's flat shape fairly well.. All that said.. that whole warping issue is a big reason I typically just use plywood for my thin wood projects. but it's hard to really beat the beauty of solid wood.. while ply looks good on the face and back ( if you buy good two sides ) but the middle ( core ) isn't always the best looking.

I am betting that I am probably the only one that counts clean-up time into my pricing.. But these saws can make a mess.. and yes.. I shut down everyday and clean up.. If I worked in a factory or other type of setting.. you get paid to sweep or mop etc.. why shouldn't you get paid for your time cleaning up the shop after doing a project for someone.. I think too many people charge too little because they are only thinking about the end result piece... and not really thinking about all the little things that goes into actually making that piece.. I personally start charging the minute I walk into my shop.. whether I spend a whole day cleaning or sawing.. work is work.. and I am not working in a messy shop to make someone's piece cheaper..

Wife told me she likes it backwards on the wrong side of the plywood, ( actually don't look bad that way ) LOL so.. I may glue it like that and give it to her for her office at work.... She always takes my ooops projects like that, LOL.... first I though about trying to sand off the glue and seeing how it looks and if I can savage it the correct way.. but.. if not... I'm going to glue it backwards for her office walls of ooopps, LOL.... Her co-workers probably think I am some big ol dummy, LOL... actually I don't think they even notice the flaws in the things she takes in.. they always asking me to make something for them..

Nope, it's Walnut plywood that is only good on one side... so the back side is of a different wood.. I use the cheap stuff for backers as the good two sides stuff is high priced and not needed for a backer.. Oh well..

Just come in from a stack cut of three 1/8 BB ply wildlife in a leaf pattern from Sheila Landry.. Was gluing the backers (1/4 Walnut ply ) on and first one went real nice.. look great.. second one dang it.. applied the glue to the wrong side of the cutout.. made double sure on the third one.. Hope I can save it by sanding the glue off.. I wiped as much as I could off but most of it was really tacky and soaked into the wood pretty good by the time I figured out what was going on.. I suppose I could cut another backer that would be backwards to match and glue one up backwards from the others just to salvage the piece.. LOL Not the first time I done this... but the first time I caught it just as a small drop of glue got on it and was able to wipe it off.. Kevin

As much as I've read about Seyco and how they always pre-set-up the Excalibur saws for each and every customer.. or at least that is how i always read / understood it.. I am really thrown off coarse that they are sending these saws out un-assembled.. or at least not partly assembled and tested.. I really had wondered how this was all going to pan out with these saws.. considering ( in my opinion ) they ( Seyco ) really rushed to get these saw out there and in the market.. I am in no way trying to talk bad or degrade the saw or the Seyco company.. But I sort of felt from the beginning when i heard about the new saw.. they seemed to be rushing to get the saw on the market before the new named EX-s become available to the USA... With the reputation that Seyco has I am sure they will get the new saw's bugs and flaws taken care of.. and be sure all their customers are satisfied with their purchase. Hopefully this is just an isolated case.. and the others will go together as smooth as silk. Kevin

Not sure if you have a Menards store nearby but my local Menards has the numbered drill bits. I believe they come in a 2 pack if I remember correctly.. I typically buy them from Mikes Workshop but from time to time I loose or break them.. then forget to order some more. Nice to have them locally if I am in desperate need.. Kevin

Probably already gone I didn't realize it had been on here for 20 some odd days.. I'm going to pass on it.. I see these all the time in my area for around this price range.. https://nmi.craigslist.org/tls/6105115741.html

Sounds like a deal to me I also found a really nice 22" hegner newer one too.. for $550.. but its a 2-3 hour drive too so I haven't even messaged the person yet..

Thank you all for your input on the saw sizes.. when I get ready to purchase my new saw.. I will take it all into consideration..

Very nice work!!!

I am assuming when you say the small saws end up as boat anchors.. you're referring to entree level saws? because I think a Hawk 216 is as well built as a 220 or 226.. or for that matter a 14" Hegner is as well built as a 18" or 22".. I am not talking about entree level saws that one would go to the box stores and purchase.. I've been there done that..

Yeah I know that.. I figured since the topic was saw sizes everyone would know what I meant.

I don't see why a average hobbyist would need more then one saw.. I however do this full time for a living for the past 2.5 years.. Had I thought back in the day when I got my DeWalt that I would be doing more than the average hobbyist I would have opted for a better high end saw.. I've rebuilt ( new bearings and sleeves etc ) my DeWalt 2 times now and it's ready for the third time.. I'm at a point I need a "New" saw... ( have picked up some used and worn saws too ie 30 year old Hawk ).. and quit wasting production time fixing these old saws..with band-aides.. I would keep one of my current saws and sell one off for a new saw.. I have a 20" saw now.. I don't need to fork out over a grand for a saw that a smaller lower cost saw would do the job just fine.. But.. the smaller sized saws aren't really in demand obviously so companies have dropped the smaller sized saws.. Just thinking of how.. back in the day.. Hawk and many of the other companies used to offer a lower priced smaller saw.. and wishing they still did.. a single speed hegner isn't of any use to me as I use the variable speed quite a lot.. this leaves me stuck forking out a lot of cash for a saw that is really just overkill for my needs.. I brought this topic up to sort of see.. how many really do use the full throat capacity of the saws they own and how often that might be.. and not just the type that say well I don't "Need" a 20 inch saw but if I have the money I'll buy it just in case..I find a use later on for it.. That is ok too.. not bashing any saw sizes, brands or owners.. just seeing how many really do use the full capacity of their saws..